GT2X Eliminator - Page 2

as im having big problems with my ATP hardware(who would have guessed) i don't have time to get into it. nor the energy.
 
but 2 quick things. the GT2X IS based off of the GT25.. coolant fed or not. that's a fact.
 
and aRif's dyno makes me sick too. he needs to do something different. like switch to CTapp tunning over his Unitronics. that ALONE, should net him another 20-30whp and 50+wtq

The gt2x is a gt20, the chra numbers match.  
 
Also i HIGHLY doubt swapping from tunes he makes that much power.

To be more specific, gt2052
 

 
Garrett GT20

 
 
Thread one
Thread two

One last question is it possible to run the gtrs kit without a chip?

can you run it... yes, will it perform well..... no.  Your going to need fueling and then tuning for the fueling.

Do people who run this tend to use 440cc injectors,  what size do you recomend?

I have seen people run all sorts of programing on this turbo.  If you can get a gt28r tune from revo, it should be good to go and better with some lemmi tweeks.

quote:

ORIGINAL: MasterV

Do people who run this tend to use 440cc injectors,  what size do you recomend?

 
there is not cookie cutter tune for the gt2x like there are the other eliminators. that's the first thing you need to realize.
 
the closest off the shelf(OTS) tune you'll find is a k04 file (j31 for your year). with that, some 440cc injectors(get delphi's, not greentops), and an adujustable fuel pressure regulator that should give you a good start to your hardware. or you could also try to source a PES t28 file. it's another OTS kit that has worked before.. but, this is just a start. you're going to need to do a lot of road tuning via lemmiwinks.

Ok. I am definately new to Audi tuning and I know that my inexperience will piss some of you off, but I need some advice... I own a 2001 Audi A4 and my KO3 turbo has failed on me and my car is now burning oil. I was considering replacing it with a KO4 turbo, but after reading some threads I am not sure that the KO4 is worth spending almost $1000 on. I do intend to chip my car and install a full Borla exhaust system. I wanted a GIAC chip, but I live in Vermont and there is only a direct port APR programming place around here. I do not really want to spend multiple thousands of dollars on this car (maybe $3000 for everything at the most). I like to drive fast some times. I do not intend to race my car. This will mostly be a daily driver and something that I can make look and sound nice and have quick accelertaion when I need to show someone up. My question is:  For everything that I have in mind to use my turbo upgrade for, which turbo should I purchase? What other components would I need to purchase in addition to the turbo - FMIC, injectors, manifold, diverter valve (Forge 007 or APR R1)? Another question on the injectors, what size do I need and can I just purchase them at an auto parts store? Also, if I put in a turbo larger than stock will I need both a boost gauge and an air fuel monitoring device?

First, if your turbo was blown, you would not make boost or have a huge cloud shooting out the tailpipe.  If your using oil, you most likely have bad piston rings (not likely unless you have well above 100k miles), leaky valve cover gasket (rather likely, takes 2 seconds to look around the engine and see), or your pvc is dead, (thats most likely a given).  Dont go spending thousands of dollars on a turbo when yours is fine.
 
Second, please read the newbie guide on top of the forum, it has all this highly repetitive stuff in it.  If you have something that 1000000000 of people would ask, its in there.

About 6 months ago I had to have a timing belt job done on my car, because the other belt broke and caused some of my valves to bend. So, I had all of the necessary components replaced. I am not sure about piston rings, but I know that when my car started to burn oil my father (who is a mechanic) looked around the engine bay and took off the panel underneath the engine and saw no signs of oil leaking onto it. I also took my car to Audi to have this problem diagnosed and they told me that my camshaft chain adjuster seal was leaking small amounts of oil and that my coolant flange at the rear of my cylinder head was leaking. As you would expect, when they fixed these two problems the issue that was car is burning oil was still present. And they claim that they did not notice the burning oil until one day when they had to move my car for snow removal. Within 10 minutes of driving my car it starts to burn oil, but the cloud of smoke is sporadic. However, the smell is always present. The car also tends to shudder when idling after being driven for a short time (10-15 minutes). On my hour drive back from the dealer I noticed that my car was a bit jumpy when it came to maintaining highway speeds after being driven for a good half hour. They also commented that my turbo is louder than normal. I did notice the turbo spooling louder than normal lately, but the car still has its usual acceleration. I am not sure if this is of any significance, but O2 sensor ahead of my catalyst also crapped out at around the same time my car was burning oil. The Audi techs believe that my cars turbo has a "sporatic internal oil leak." Not sure if any of you guys have some advice for me as to what the real issue might be with this car?  Also, what is a pvc?

the GT3071R Turbo itself is pretty sweet. I've had mine for almost 3 years now and the turbo  runs perfect. Have had no issue with it at all.