Not Good

Ok, so today I had the APR program (93 oct) flashed on my ecu, it drove pretty great right after i got it. However, i went to go drive it again this evening and BIG problems! It idles ok, but as soon as you go to drive it the check engine light starts flashing. Also the engine is having problems. When you press the accelerator the engine stumbles, and then makes a noise kinda like a machine gun (bad example I know.) I only made it about 20 ft down the road and had to turn around and park it! I'm pretty sketched out, I would bring it somewhere to have it checked out, but i'm afraid it won't make it, or it will seriously damage something. Anyone had this problem? Know anything about why it happened? Any ideas? I don't have any engine codes to give since this happened about 5 mins ago..

you didn't regap your spark plugs and now your misfiring

Thanks Chaos,
 
Is this something you have to do with all chips? I would have imagined the shop would have said something (then again maybe not.) I think I've see posts about this, I'll search, but in the mean tie do you know what they should be? Or a place where i can find out.
 
thanks again, i really appreciate it

Mine are still gapped at .032 and my car runs like a champ.

It drove fine on the way home (about 2hrs), it was only after is sat for a while that this problem occured

yes it should ALWAYS be done when chipping. regap or replace your spark plugs http://www.audiforums.com/m_732017/tm.htm then disconnect your battery for 10 min to clear the codes. if the flashing cel comes back, get the code read and replace the corresponding coipack

and Rhinop you should regap them immeadiately. takes 10 minutes, and if you dont you could blow a coilpack

so vermont sucks and i couldn't find a place that carried any bosch plugs. but thats besides the point. that link that you gave me was for plugs on a b5? maybe? anyway, i don't know how to release the coil pack from a b6. there looks like a tab, but i don't want to break anything. somebody please help!!!!

You should be using NGK bkr6e's (copper) instead of Bosch.  The copper runs a bit hotter and they are only about $2 a piece.  You will have to replace them every 3-5000 miles, but at that cost it shouldn't matter much.  The coil packs are easily pryed up with a flathead screwdriver, at least that's how I get them off.  

is it that tab on the firewall side of the coils? you just pry that up?

http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page=webcontent/pages/copperplugs.html Here is a good writeup on B6's plug swap. I use the screwdriver to lightly pry it loose but it shouldn't require much force.

thanks Sherman

So to regap I just put a gapping tool between the elctrode and the metal piece and just hit the electrode with a hammer with the .020 gap thing?

Ok, so i went through all my plugs today, and checked the gapping. They were a little different on each cylinder, but not more than a few 100th's of a mm. Anyway they're all correct now. So I cleared the ecu of the codes, and started it. Still the same problems, so it has to be the coils right? I did notice on the cylinder closest to the firewall, a little of the white material of the spark plug had melted off onto the rubber ring in the bottom of the coil. Also can you really check them one by one while the car is on? I saw that in a thread, but it sounds kinda sketchy. If anyone has any advice or knows of a place to buy coils please give me a shout.

, I have to call the dealership soon. Should I try and buy four new coils and plugs? Or just one to hold me over until I order those Hitatchi ones? Also I have to bring my car to the bodyshop this morning, if I can't get a tow truck can I pull it with another car?

i toed mine with my dads blazer. but i don't recomend it.... also you can pull the coil put the plug in it and try firing the car, see if you get spark....... find out which one is bad, replace it, then buy the hitachi's

quote:

ORIGINAL: amiller86

Ok, so i went through all my plugs today, and checked the gapping. They were a little different on each cylinder, but not more than a few 100th's of a mm. Anyway they're all correct now. So I cleared the ecu of the codes, and started it. Still the same problems, so it has to be the coils right? I did notice on the cylinder closest to the firewall, a little of the white material of the spark plug had melted off onto the rubber ring in the bottom of the coil. Also can you really check them one by one while the car is on? I saw that in a thread, but it sounds kinda sketchy. If anyone has any advice or knows of a place to buy coils please give me a shout.

yeah you blew a coilpack. either get the code read so you know which cylinder its at, or do what turbo kraut said. only get 1 from the dealer (unless you blew more than one) and then you can buy the upgraded ones online later if you want

quote:

ORIGINAL: Rhinop21

So to regap I just put a gapping tool between the elctrode and the metal piece and just hit the electrode with a hammer with the .020 gap thing?

well thats one way to do it lol. i just use some pliers and clamp it down, then stick it on the thinnest side of the gapping tool and rotate until you get your desired gap

yeah, I got new coils from the dealership. I replaced the one coil, and all the spark plugs. I got another oe coil just in case something happens before I get the new ones. The car runs like a champ now!! Thanks again guys, I def would not have figured this out on my own.

i think you might have to replace the mass air flow sensor.