which BT manifold? - Page 2

heat from the exhaust turbine spinning super fast with hot EGT's
 
and im going to go with a cast manifold cuz i dont want it to crack

quote:

ORIGINAL: 1.8TK3MP

manifold exposed to high pressure?

and the exhaust isnt exposed to high heat?  have u never seen a DP glow?

I've seen a DP glow from excess fuel getting dumped into it and ignited never from just how air flow though.

also your manifold will more than likely be the sole support for the weight of your turbo. thats why you don't go cheap. metal weakens as it heats and becomes more malluble. now imagine you hit a pothole and all the force of that turbo droping has to be supported by that now hot/weaker manifold. also as you torque the motor it rocks side to side it will sling the turbo the mainifold must support that force. and then you have the force of the turbo pulling itself forward under load. so now your looking at least 3 forces at all times it variant directions being supported by a manifold that is be rapidly heated and cooled. SO.... don't go cheap. your saying its not as important as your internals but a ****ty header can take away near half of your hp. why do you think the good ones are so important because there is alot of engineering that goes into them. personally... i don't care what you chose to do.. but if you ask for advice and don't go with what we refer you to... don't bitch when it breaks.

quote:

ORIGINAL: 1.8TK3MP

heat from the exhaust turbine spinning super fast with hot EGT's

and im going to go with a cast manifold cuz i dont want it to crack

cast maniolds are generally the ones you have to worry about cracking. go tubular...

how will cast crack before tubular?
 
and say i buy that tubular manifold off of ebay, and then have my dads friend re-enforce the welds internally and externally?
 
and i plan on making some sort of support for the turbo, any suggestions?

design, shape, way the metal was formed. tubular > cast


umm.... wel iff you know anything about welding just slapping more bead on there dosn't make it any stronger it just makes it a waste of time. as far as supporting the turbo, you better brace it to the engine(remeber it rocks) otherwise you'll just break it.

quote:

ORIGINAL: Bondga

design, shape, way the metal was formed. tubular > cast


umm.... wel iff you know anything about welding just slapping more bead on there dosn't make it any stronger it just makes it a waste of time. as far as supporting the turbo, you better brace it to the engine(remeber it rocks) otherwise you'll just break it.

 
well how do u suggest supporting the turbo?

i'm kicking myself for asking
what type of turbo are thinking about buying that requires additional bracing?

quote:

ORIGINAL: 1.8TK3MP

quote:

ORIGINAL: Bondga

design, shape, way the metal was formed. tubular > cast


umm.... wel iff you know anything about welding just slapping more bead on there dosn't make it any stronger it just makes it a waste of time. as far as supporting the turbo, you better brace it to the engine(remeber it rocks) otherwise you'll just break it.

well how do u suggest supporting the turbo?

By buying a quality manifold. THats one of the major reasons you don't skimp on the manifold

i already have my 50trim turbonetics
 
and even if i spent mass money on a manifold i still would want to support the turbo some way, so how do you recommend bracing it?

you would have to brace it to the motor or on some sort of rocking mount set up. either way would require much time, fab, and money to make any real use out of it. A quaility manifod(meaning one oyu actually have to spend $ for) is designed to deal with all of the the forces a turbo creates. thats why they cost so much. there not made by some average joe in a shop somewhere welding his ass off. there is hours of engineering design and reasearch that goes into these manifolds. the ones your looking at on ebay are more like the ones were someone went in there garage and slapped it together

why do you say go tubular and not cast?, everyone else has said cast is more durable.
 
and i will attach the brace to the motor, but how can i attach it to the turbo?

and that godspeed manifold is fully tigged and looks lik the most well crafted one on ebay, they are well known, but it is a tubular

I dissagree with cast being more durable. check any high dollor race car and you will find tubelar manifolds not cast.....

Drop the brace buy the manifold

i already told you, i will do a brace no matter how much i spend on the manifold, im just not wanting it to crack at all, so how do u say i support it?

if it were I... i would modify 2 internal wastegate braskets. mount one to the compressor and one to the turbine then use those to connect it to the engine.

how would i do the turbine side? i have external wastegate...
 
and i get what your sayin bout the compressor...lik use the half-moon shaped looking internal wastegate mount
 
and i was think of trying to mount it to where the ko3 brace bolted up....any ideas?

i would connect it to the turbine the same as the compressor.

quote:

ORIGINAL: 1.8TK3MP

why do you say go tubular and not cast?, everyone else has said cast is more durable.

they are saying as far as cheap manifolds go... the best is a very well crafted tube manifold, but the ebay ones are notorious for actually breaking. Like Jeff's ebay mani, the entire wastegate tube broke off.

when will this thread get locked and kemp get banned again?

quote:

ORIGINAL: 1.8TK3MP

and that godspeed manifold is fully tigged and looks lik the most well crafted one on ebay, they are well known, but it is a tubular

godspeed makes cheap fmic's as well as cheap manifolds...  im sure someone said this already but: do it right the first time.

+1 for doing it right the first time!

I can just see it a month from now:

Thread Title: "My car won't boost anymore! REALLY Loud! HELP"

Body:
"So it looks like there is a crack in my exhaust mani. How come this happened? Why didn't you warn that this would happen? I thought all of you knew what your talking about... yadi yadi yada."

Josh

for the love of god stay away from ebay manifolds. get something like atp cast mani, 034, full race. but not EGAY. you can trust me on this one. i had 2 ebay manis and they both cracked. on the second time it cracked i lost my wg, dumptube, and a bunch of vac line on the freeway while i was doing 80mph. DO NOT GET EBAY MANI'S THEY WILL CRACK AND FAILLLLLLLLL

quote:

ORIGINAL: Bondga

I dissagree with cast being more durable. check any high dollor race car and you will find tubelar manifolds not cast.....

Drop the brace buy the manifold

 
YOu are so far off just like always.  Cast manifolds will last far longer and are at far less risk of cracking.  The reason tube mans cost more is because they take far more labor and the parts on the good ones cost alot.  The reason high dollar race cars use them is because they flow better and they can replace them if/when they have a problem.  If tube manifolds were so much more durable, all turbo cars would come with them stock.
 
Kemp, there are more than a handful of people running ebay cast manifolds and have no problems.

repeats self
 
ebay SS man = bad
ebay cast man = rather good
atp,pag, etc cast = really good
034, F-R, = really good.
 
All manifolds CAN crack, the chance of the higher priced ones is less due to better materials.

LOL at this thread!! I looked at this thread shaking my head yesterday when it only had 70 hits. Now it has close to 300. ( hangs head in shame)