2001 Allroad 2.7T rear diff leak driveshaft
#2
The driveshaft or the axle shaft?
The driveshaft (trans to diff) is 6 Allen head bolts and then you almost always have to use a "persuader" to get the rear cv joint to come out of the flange. Quite often, it seems welded together (rust). There's a large nut (36mm) holding the flange to the pinion. Count the number of turns it takes to remove as a reference for reassembly. To tight and you'll put too much preload on the pinion bearings, too loose and, well, you get the idea.
The axle shafts (to the wheels), mark the upper control arm eccentrics for position and remove them. Next, take the cast aluminum shield off (3 Allen head bolts) and finally remove the 6 triple square (internal 12 point) fasteners at the inner cv joint. Normally you can then pivot the knuckle far enough to get the axle shaft out of the way for working room on the seal. Next, there's an Allen head bolt in the center of the axle flange. Once it's out, the flange will pull out of the diff. and the seal can be replaced. Be aware of the plastic dust shield in front of the seal. Those are hit and miss whether they come out intact or,,,,,,,,,,in pieces. Even with marking the eccentrics, still a good idea to get he alignment checked/adjusted afterwards.
The driveshaft (trans to diff) is 6 Allen head bolts and then you almost always have to use a "persuader" to get the rear cv joint to come out of the flange. Quite often, it seems welded together (rust). There's a large nut (36mm) holding the flange to the pinion. Count the number of turns it takes to remove as a reference for reassembly. To tight and you'll put too much preload on the pinion bearings, too loose and, well, you get the idea.
The axle shafts (to the wheels), mark the upper control arm eccentrics for position and remove them. Next, take the cast aluminum shield off (3 Allen head bolts) and finally remove the 6 triple square (internal 12 point) fasteners at the inner cv joint. Normally you can then pivot the knuckle far enough to get the axle shaft out of the way for working room on the seal. Next, there's an Allen head bolt in the center of the axle flange. Once it's out, the flange will pull out of the diff. and the seal can be replaced. Be aware of the plastic dust shield in front of the seal. Those are hit and miss whether they come out intact or,,,,,,,,,,in pieces. Even with marking the eccentrics, still a good idea to get he alignment checked/adjusted afterwards.
#4
We took the exhaust off, heat shields and bracket for middle of drive shaft but when I removed the 6 allen bolts that connect the drive shaft to the flange it wont budge that should be able to separate just like the wheel cv's in the back right? I was so lost I was banging on it but wouldn't budge. A friend told me there is a pin holding the shaft and flange together but I dont see anything. we separated the little case for the joint where the 6 allen bolts go through is there anything in there its filled with grease?
#5
That is exactly how it's supposed to come apart. That is the CV joint grease. Be sure to not lose the rubber gasket that goes between the joint and flange. The flange is held to the pinion gear shaft with a 36mm( not positive of the size though) nut. After the nut is off, the flange should more or less just slide off. You may need to tap on it with a hammer to get it to come off.
#6
That is exactly how it's supposed to come apart. That is the CV joint grease. Be sure to not lose the rubber gasket that goes between the joint and flange. The flange is held to the pinion gear shaft with a 36mm( not positive of the size though) nut. After the nut is off, the flange should more or less just slide off. You may need to tap on it with a hammer to get it to come off.
#7
Yes they are a pain! When it's new, they're a precision fit and stick slightly. Has to be this way for alignment of the pieces. Otherwise if it's not EXACTLY centered, there will be a driveline vibration.
Depending on where you live it will be rusted together a little or,,,,,,,,a lot. I'm in Wisconsin so it's always a lot (winter road salt by the tons).
In the past, I've had to resort to using an air hammer with a mushroom bit to get it to separate. I'm talking a Dirty Harry size of Snap-On air hammer. Not something I like to do on a part like that but sometimes you have no choice.
Depending on where you live it will be rusted together a little or,,,,,,,,a lot. I'm in Wisconsin so it's always a lot (winter road salt by the tons).
In the past, I've had to resort to using an air hammer with a mushroom bit to get it to separate. I'm talking a Dirty Harry size of Snap-On air hammer. Not something I like to do on a part like that but sometimes you have no choice.
#8
Yes they are a pain! When it's new, they're a precision fit and stick slightly. Has to be this way for alignment of the pieces. Otherwise if it's not EXACTLY centered, there will be a driveline vibration.
Depending on where you live it will be rusted together a little or,,,,,,,,a lot. I'm in Wisconsin so it's always a lot (winter road salt by the tons).
In the past, I've had to resort to using an air hammer with a mushroom bit to get it to separate. I'm talking a Dirty Harry size of Snap-On air hammer. Not something I like to do on a part like that but sometimes you have no choice.
Depending on where you live it will be rusted together a little or,,,,,,,,a lot. I'm in Wisconsin so it's always a lot (winter road salt by the tons).
In the past, I've had to resort to using an air hammer with a mushroom bit to get it to separate. I'm talking a Dirty Harry size of Snap-On air hammer. Not something I like to do on a part like that but sometimes you have no choice.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MKIV_TDI
B6 Models
2
01-09-2014 09:33 AM
Papa_Dios
Archive - Engine/Performance Parts
5
05-23-2011 09:44 PM
TheJazz7
Audi A4
9
07-23-2007 01:21 PM