Hi all, first time poster so go easy on me please

I'm looking at installing my old single din JVC KD-AVX44 into my 07 A3. I'm guessing I have the original Concert stereo as there's no iPhone/iPod dock at all.
Already ordered the facia adapter.
Also fitting my old JBL sub and amp.

The issue I have is the existing factory wiring. The back of the JVC unit is simple enough to suss out (previously installed into a Vectra), it's adapting it to fit the Audi harness I can't seem to get my head round. I've had a look on a few sites and they provide patching kits for A3 to JVC, but after speaking to Halfords (who are admittedly usually as much use as a chocolate teapot), they've advised first that I speak to Audi directly before spending £80 odd on a patch kit that may r may not be needed.

Anyone have any thoughts or ideas on this at all please?

 

Sorry, I should have added the pic originally. That's what I'm currently looking at.

 

Dad, first off good luck.
From what I have seen the front speakers are powered from the head unit and the rear has a separate amp. It looks like there are actually 5 speakers up front (door, pillar and a center). The rear is fed a line signal. The amp in the back powers the woofer (in the amp housing) and the rear door speakers. How bout that, 5 speakers in the back as well.
Is that what you have?

 

From what I can make out I have a non-Bose setup. In the boot drivers side is the amp, with the sub over on the other side in a Tupperware box. Not sure how many speakers I actually have in there tbh, I know there's definitely one in each door and one in the centre front but beyond that I couldn't say. Certainly not spotted any other speaker grills etc.

The amp I have is the JBL GT5-3001, monochannel, which quite possibly complicates matters as I'd have preferred it to power all speakers and the sub, but from what I've seen I would need a 4 channel amp to achieve this.

So I guess I'm going to be going with the HU powering the front with a line feed to the aftermarket JBL amp powering the sub and rears.

 

I have the basic stereo in mine and considered changing when I first got it. Things got complicated quickly.

Are you using the factory speakers? Component speakers of your own? Do you have any external cross/overs for the mid speakers (low in the F & R doors) & tweeter speakers (F pillars & R high at door handle)? I'm guessing the factory stereo has all of that EQ stuff built in. Never actually removed any of mine.

Miss the days of coaxial/triaxial speakers in the front doors & rear deck lid!!! Component speakers can sound nice but are labor intensive. Had a 5 ch amp in my last Honda that did it (selectable Freq cut offs & dB gain) all one box.

 

hello Dad,
i have a 2006 audi a3 s-line and it has the bose with the navi unit and THAT was hard to find a harness for, no one really makes one lol
BUT
i was able to find one,
here is what you do before you go splicing and hacking at wires (not saying u will)
does your stereo have stering wheel control? if so u will loose your steering wheel controls, but Pac Audio offers steering wheel controls, depending on your model, i know mine was an odd one.
i will look up the model number when i get home in the morning.
next,
could you put up a picture of the head unit itself so i could see it
next,
is it the navi head unit? if not here is a harness that will work

Radio Stereo Install Car Wire Wiring Harness Cable F | eBay

you should be able to connect this to ur JVC HU and then just plug it in, and because this is plug and play you should still have use of front and rear speakers,
your stock head unit sends a signal thru the speaker leads to the amplifier in the rear ( if you do indeed have one back there)

Sorry if this is confusing at all if you have any questions just PM me i have a vast insite into DIY car audio =) and i am very willing to help out!

 

and this harness is CHEAP
lol worth the shot! says it is compatable

 

Morning, apologies for the lack of updates, had a faulty net connection

Managed to get the head unit in, with all speakers working, including factory sub and amp, so now I need to get myself a decent four channel amp unless I take the mono channel one from the rear speakers. The head unit itself has line outputs for an amp so putting it in shouldn't be any more problematic than actually routing the cables, the biggest issue being getting through the firewall for the direct battery connection.

Will post in a bit what exactly I've used so far once I get school run out of the way.

 

i would suggest a Kenwood Excelon XR-4S
Kenwood Excelon XR-4S 4-channel car amplifier — 120 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms at Crutchfield.com

or if u get rid of the sub amp or add a different one the Kenwood XR-5S or the Kenwood Excelon X700-5 both 5ch amps,

Kenwood XR-5S 5-channel car amplifier — 80 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 350 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com

Kenwood Excelon X700-5 5-channel car amplifier — 40 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com

the Excelon series is great, i have the XR 1s and the XR 4s they are so tiny put them just about anywhere, mine are under my seats in my 98 honda accord, soon to be moved in to my audi =) if u go mono block the XR 1s is 6oow RMS i love it i run my one AQ SDC 2.5 and the clarity is amazing, pluss these amps have better air circulation systems so they can be stuck just about anywhere and be safe, also they have a system cut off incase the speakers get to much power lol i turned my gain all the way up ti blow my stock speakers for sh*ts and giggles and it wouldnt do it it just cut off.

 

Cheers for the replies

Had a bit of spare cash so got my local car audio place to fit the amp and sub with the jvc HU. The amp is powering the sub and rears I believe.

The plan now is to wait until I have some more money and then swap the single channel amp so that all it powers is the sub, and tag a second, four channel, amp for the speakers.

After that, unless I blow them in the meantime, it'll be a case of putting in a new set of door speakers, and rears. If the tweeters are ok at that time I'll leave them in place.

The only actual issue right now is there appears to be no way to control sub output as the subwoofer option is greyed out.