My Audi A4 2003 1.8T Runs great, but has a problem starting up every once in a while, about 2 out of 10 engine starts it will happen to me, but then will start right up after it dies down. The RPM's will hop up then just die down, I am thinking its fuel related, maybe fuel pump or something. Running 93 Octane gas in it. If Any one knows what the problem is here, please post and let me know some possibility's, Thanks.

 

Just checking to see if you found a solution. My 2003 A4 1.8T Avant always starts, just that it takes 3 tries once in a while - that being several days a week and the issues seems to be worse after filling up (but can't say for sure).

 

My problem was the immobilizer, It was shutting down the car.. Not sure if it got changed out or its something with the way it reads the key being worn out inside, I just give the car 1 turn read the dash to see if the immobilizer sent a little flashing car digital symbol, If not the car will start fine.

 

Many thanks for the follow-up, I've done some research on the so-called Immo3 and it seems to be a mess (for TT, VW and Saab). Unfortunate that such an unreliable piece has caused so much grief. As to Saab on Immo3, interesting comment: "This procedure cured the immobilizer issue for me also; I held the key in the ignition, held the unlock button for one minute, removed the key and put it back in. Bada bing, car started fine."

 

I have now discovered that I don't need to try and start the car, I simply need to turn the key, see if the immo light goes off, try again, and try again. If not off on the first turn, it ALWAYS goes off on the third turn of the key, which I can then start - without any further issues. What is wrong with the Immo3 - seems problematic across many makes and models.

 

I have been dealing with this issue of "starting then dying off" since July. I have spent hundreds of dollars at the dealer replacing filters, spark plugs, oil changes, valve replacements, breather hose replacements, etc etc. Audi have now asked me to change the fuel pump as it appears the car is not getting fuel properly. I have spent enough money eliminating things with the dealer therefore I put the car into a local garage....they immediately attempted to start the car and noticed the car with key symbol blinking and advised me my problem was likely with the anti-theft system. I went back to the dealer and they changed the batteries in both my fobs....still no better and they are not buying into the "anti-theft" theory. Meanwhile, after much research on line I noticed a similar problem with a north american made vehicle and they advised to:
1. Turn the ignition key to on....but don't engage
2. Check the dashboard lights
3. If the anti-theft symbol (car with key) is blinking then the car won't start
4. If the anti-theft symbol disappears from the dashboard screen the car will start
5. If the symbol is blinking, leave the key to the on position until the blinking symbol disappears....only then will the car start....you may have to leave the key in the on position for over 10 mins.
I have done this twice since yesterday and my car has started after each procedure. At least I know an immediate fix so I don't get stranded with the vehicle.
Can anyone advise what the next step is to correct this issue? Is the problem likely to be with the anti-theft module or is it as simple as a reset? Someone suggested a reset (Hold key in ignition to on only; Hold unlock button on key fob for 1 minute; Remove key from ignition and put back in and proceed to start car)....I will try this next time I have the start failure but any advice readers can give on what my next steps should be would be most helpful.

 

I have discussed with dealer and the immo3 is the likely issue. The immo3 is integrated in the dash instrument cluster, which is about $1250 and could possibly be refurbished evidently for about $600 (takes about two weeks). This issue is a real pain. The other day, the flashers started going off while I was in the car, trying to start it - always being aware of the little key symbol on the dash. I could not turn off the flashers from the button - what a pain! I am wondering if the advent of cell phones has caused interference? Maybe the frequency bands overlap and the circuitry is bombarded with stray signals from cell phones in the car, cell towers, etc. Who knows, otherwise, maybe it's simply a defective design that readily fails. The more cars become like computers driven by software - expect weekly upgrades and reboots.

 

Thanks for your response. I have, like you, learned to get into the vehicle, turn the key to the on position, determine the status of the (car/key symbol) and proceed if it disappears from the dashboard OR turn the key off and try again if the immobilizer symbol is flashing. How long can I expect this to work? My main concern is getting stranded with the vehicle.

I recently had the dealer sort some issue that were making the vehicle run rough and the malfunction indicator was highlighted. Is it possible they caused this issue as the problem only began after the dealer serviced it for the running rough / sluggish issue (valve / breather hoses etc).

I appreciate any feedback you can provide.
sb

 

Strange you mention that, my problem also started after servicing. I am wondering if it is unintentional and due to something new in the software or instrumentation to read codes? Maybe there's a glitch somewhere. Again, I dread the day cars become heavily reliant on sw and computers - I could throw my printer through a window at times - with all of its faulty, glitchy bloatware.

I do have the same concern - how long before it fails entirely. I am trying to negotiate a discount for replacement of the cluster by the dealer.

 

Hi,

Seems the placing the key in the "on" position then reading the dashboard to determine the flash or no-flash status of the immobilizer has ran it's course.

My immobilizer has been flashing almost everytime I've tried to start the vehicle the past few days. You can imagine my frustration. I just want this issue solved!

The dealer wants me to order a new key as that's cheaper than the cluster... but in my gut I feel it's the cluster. I want this fixed so I can sell the car.

Any suggestions on how I should proceed....Key or New Cluster?

sb