Hello-

I have a 2001 audi a4 1.8T. the motor has a noisy cam chain tensioner. It only makes noise when it is hot and the noise is eliminated when I connect my test harness I created that will energize the solinoid.

Once the solinoid is energized the noise is gone. (sure idle is a bit rough but that is due to the cam advance. Remove the power to the solinoid the noise is back. I have isolated the issue to this. Oil pressure is fine. Motor has been cleaned and sea foam is currently being used to control sludge.

Now my question. What is specifically wrong with the cam chain tensioner? The plastic guides look fine??? or is the chain that actually is stretched? or is it the sprockets and chain that have actually worn?? Can anyone tell me specificially what is wrong with the cam chain tensioner since this appears to be an issue with the 2001.

 

i currently have the same issue on my 2003. i believe the came chain tensioner has an internal piston that can get worn out and or start get noisy if you have a sludge problem or higher mileage. the noise you are hearing is internal in itself. on mine everything looks tought and clean myslef. your came chain should be fine. just replace that tensioner. Auditech79 is very knowledgable on this topic....

 

The answer above is correct, its the piston that your hearing. There is only two things that will cause this noise to happen from the chain tensioner.
A) The oil pressure is low starving the chain tensioner for oil making it chatter (like a diesel engine)
But you claim that you have checked this, i would check it again.
B) The oil passage inside the tensioner is blocked starving the tensioner for oil in which case the chain tensioner has to be replaced.

 

if you praise him....he will come lol

 

Not sure if this is in spec but here is what I did tonight. Connected an oil pressure gauge to the tap on the cooler by the oil filter. Ran the engine till the oil got to temperature. The motor ran at 20psi at idle and went to 40psi on revs. The tapping noise came an went at the oil pressure meter stayed exactly at 20psi.

20pis was very much held during the entire warmup and idle process. Reading other posts I believe this is within specification. Or should I review and boot up ELSA.

Did another examination of the chain tensionser. Give the item is spring loaded and the cams go clockwise. the top portion of t he chain tensioner is an idler. The interesting thing is that it appears the piston that holds the top guild is actually loose or appears to have play. Thus when one actuates the tensioner the top guild is pulled to the bottom. Effectivly removing the play and making the idler quite.

 

Oh no, you have to have at least 40 psi at idle! 60-80 when reving up the motor!
Don't touch the tensioner, its supposed to have play.
Get your oil pick up tube replaced ASAP.

 

haha i think i just got my unasked question answered lol.

 

I really wanted to avoid this as much as possible since this happened to be at 33K but at that time the engine light went on. So changing your oil every 3-5K makes no difference verse the recommended 10K from Audi. This thing will still clog.

Now this car should be under warrenty. Any tips to confirm it will get through a warrenty service. I have invoices for every oil change using Mobil 1 syntetic 5-40.

If I can't get this thing serviced under warrenty. What are some tips to drop the pan. It appears the back two bolts of the pan require a ball allen key? Can I just use a standard allen key with a ball tip. Or should I cut the L off. Will 3" be long enough?

My thoughts on the oil pan extractiong, pull bumper, place in service position, lift car by body rails, hold motor with an engine hoist, remove mount bolts, place roller jack unter sub frame, remove front bolts from sub frame, loosen rear bolts, lover sub-frame on an angle, remove pan. Any tips on this process?

Thanks

 

Your oil pressure should be a minimum of 1.3 bar (18.83 psi) at idle and around 50psi at 2000 rpm. So your oil pressure seems ok. I have had the exact problem with my 02 a4. replaced the cam chaim tensioner and all is well. Although I did do everything that Audi suggest before replacing the tensioner. I was luck y I guess because all of my cam bearings were ok and there was no slugde in the oil pan. I did replace the oil pump and pick-up screen while I had the oil pan off. But my oil pressure was the same before and after the new oil pump.

 

Ok this is what I was concerned about. I will check with the ELSA manual on the exact pressure specifications. I have two answers here one that 18psi at idle is ok and one that 40 psi at idle is correct.

Funny thing is when the oil is cold the first spec is correct and when my oil is oil the 2nd spec is correct.