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Major problems after timing belt replacement

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  #1  
Old 10-05-2013, 09:22 AM
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Default Major problems after timing belt replacement

We had a new timing belt and water pump put in about a month ago. Immediately after picking up the car we noticed the timing was off. Brought it back the next day for an adjustment. It seemed okay, but not perfect. We then noticed an erratic idle. We needed a new motor mount so we brought it back to have that done and told the mechanic to check the timing. Mechanic said it was "half a tooth off". He said he fixed it, test drove it, and said it felt "great". The next thing we hear is that new codes came up indicating that we need new valve cover gaskets because there is oil leaking. My first question is this. Do you have to remove the valve cover gasket when replacing a timing belt? Shouldn't the valve covers be replaced when replacing the belt? This was not an Audi dealer or special mechanic that did the work and I believe he screwed something up in a BIG way. Now they are having the car towed to the local Audi dealer and said they will cover all costs ($2,200.00) IF it was their fault. Sigh...
 
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Old 10-05-2013, 01:20 PM
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Forgot something! They say there is a short in the VCT solenoid which CAUSED the valve cover gasket to "blow". All I know is everything was fine until they changed the belt!
 
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Old 10-05-2013, 04:55 PM
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It helps to specify which engine, because the valve timing is done differently on the 1.8T four cylinder compared to the 2.8 six. I'll assume you have the 1.8:

First, how did you know or suspect the timing was off? You said that it wasn't until after the mechanic "fixed" it that you noticed the idle problem. By the way, because of the finite spacing of the belt and sprocket teeth, up to "half tooth" error is to be expected. Most folks install the belt so that if there is some error, which is to be expected, it will cause the camshaft sprocket mark to advance clockwise relative to the fixed mark on the valve cover. The idea is that any stretch or wear over the life of the belt will only cause the timing to become more exact.

Next, there are no codes which can indicate a leaking valve cover. The way that you know a valve cover is leaking visually seeing drips, or smelling the oil. To your question about the valve cover: No, the valve cover does not need to be removed to change the timing belt. And, the variable camshaft timing solenoid can't cause the valve cover to blow. So, I'd say that you are no longer a customer of this mechanic.

Lastly, you are having the car towed. You don't want to drive it? How does it run now?
 
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Old 10-05-2013, 06:16 PM
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It is a 3.0

After we got the car back when he replaced the timing belt we noticed the erratic idle and when you would start out driving the car seemed to jump a bit. We new immediately it was timing and brought it back the next day. It didn't help. The newest codes given to us after the timing was "fixed" for the 2nd time were 18406, 17930, and 16725. Where would we see the oil drips? Under the car or on the engine? The car was towed from the mechanic to Audi to determine what/who caused this issue. Thanks for your help.
 
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Old 10-05-2013, 09:50 PM
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Oh, the "off a tooth" remark led me to think this was a four.

There really is no such thing as being off-a-tooth with the V6, if the job is done properly, because there are no timing marks on the cam sprockets. Special tools are required, especially for the 3.0 (I did the same job on my Daughter's A4 so I had to rent the tool kit), and if your mechanic didn't use them those codes could result from incorrect timing. The 3.0 has two camshafts in each side of the engine, and there is one tool that holds those in the correct relationship while the belt is being changed.

If not the dealer, at least take the car to an Audi independent who can show you that they use the proper tools.
 
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Old 10-05-2013, 11:30 PM
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Thanks for the information. I just looked up all the codes that came up right after the belt was replaced. The day after we picked up the car after the new timing belt was replaced it showed a code P1998. 2 weeks later the codes were P1998, P1602, P1996,P1522, P0300, 301, 302, 303. All points to timing in my opinion.
 
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Old 10-06-2013, 12:50 AM
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301, 302, and P0303 are for misfires on the passenger-side engine bank, presumably the side with the fouled-up cam timing. Just as long as it wasn't so bad that there was valve/piston contact, the timing can be corrected.
 
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Old 10-06-2013, 06:58 AM
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Besides the timing still being screwed up and no knowledge if it's affected the valves, I am really concerned about their mentioning leaking oil. I would think that if there was an oil leak PRIOR to changing the timing belt it would have been noticed at some point before now. If the leak happened AFTER changing the timing belt, what could have caused it?
 
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Old 10-06-2013, 11:45 AM
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Another mechanic said you absolutely have to remove the valve covers when replacing a timing belt on a 3.0 V6 engine. The mechanic that worked on it just told us that he didn't have to because he went through the "front of the engine with a special tool". WTH???
 
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Old 10-06-2013, 06:40 PM
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I believe on the 3.0 you need to remove the valve covers in order to lock the cams into place while doing the timing belt. If you don't, you're living life on the wild side and run the risk of retarding or advancing the timing too much to cause valve and piston contact.

If they removed the valve covers like they were supposed to in order to lock the cam shafts in place, then it is quite possible that they were sloppy and re-used old valve cover gaskets with some RTV silicone to re-seal the valve covers, which maybe where the oil is leaking from and why it wasn't noticed prior to the timing belt job.

In either event, I would just let the dealership bill the other mechanic for the time and materials used. They will be able to get it right (Hopefully) the first time without giving you the run around. I'm fortunate enough to live near a really good dealership. I've heard some aren't that great, however. Best of luck.

EDIT: Oh, and as for the "special tool", he maybe referring to the cam lock bar that you would use on a 1.8 or a 2.7T that each have a single cam sprocket per bank. I as stated earlier in my post, I believe the 3.0 has two pullys for each bank, so the cam lock bar tool that he maybe talking about doesn't apply to your engine. Sounds to me like they aren't very honest and forthcoming with you and taking ownership for their mistake.
 

Last edited by Nebuchadnezzar; 10-06-2013 at 06:43 PM.


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