No one? damn...guess i have research to do tonite...but FSU is playing...so maybe tomorrow lol

 

ok, i dont feel like researching and writing a t3t4 section, so i just added a short little description.im happy with how it is...for now lol, so Mod's, feel free to sticky it now

 

This is really helpful.. you outlined some questions I was hesitant to ask. thanks !!

 

Thought i throw in my 2 cents




What year is my car/What are the differences between the generations?

Engine wise the 97-99.5 are nDBW (its DRIVE BY CABLE DBC NOT NONDBW) and 2000+ are DBW. If you’re planning on extensively modding your car, nDBW is easier to tune. If you’re just getting a chip and a few other mods, then it doesn't really matter. 99.5 is considered to be the best year because it is still nDBW but it has all the upgrades the 2000+ had, like one-piece headlights, improved timing belt tensioner, and other stuff. In 2001, the stock hp rose from 150 hp to 170 hp. This was done through a k03s, which has a 5mm wheel shaft (k03 has 4mm), and more aggressively angled fins on the compressor wheel so it can hold more boost more efficiently(ko3has 12 compressor fins, ko3s has 8), different compression (from 9.5:1 to 9.3:1) All really have 9.5 The 225TT is the only one that doesnt w/ 9:1 and different programming that increased the boost by .3 bar (from .5 to .8). Also throughout the years the 1.8T engines have had different codes. 97-99.5 are AEB 058 block w/ external water pump, no map sensor, and large port head, and nbo2, 2000 are ATW 058 block w/ external waterpump, map sensor, and loke all non AEB cars small port head, nbo2, and 2001 are AWM Only in 01, but same as the 02+ AMB engine with 06A block, internal waterpump, map sensor, and wbo2. AEB engines are the best to work on and mod and have more aftermarket. They also have the largest port head and the biggest wrist pins (20mm) so they produce the most power. AWM engine use the AEB bottom end but the smaller port head from the AWM wrong, cut all non AEB cars have 19mm wrist pin and the rods arent as thick. . For 2.8 B5, there were two different versions of the 2.8L V6 available. A 12v from 96-97, and the 30v was introduced in 98. The 12v motor is the least desireable, though it is very reliable at 170hp. The 30v is also very reliable and comes with a 190hp motor that (as stated numerous times) can be supercharged

Auto vs. Manual

In a race a manual will beat an auto any day of the week. It can launch properly and shift faster (most of the time). The manual transmission will be able to handle any amount of power you’re going to be putting into the car. The tiptronic tranny will not be able to support anything above about ~300 ft. lbs of torque. Which means your limited to either a k04, or a small elim series turbo T3T4 with a .63 housing would have low and smooth tq that should be ok on a auto, plus will still make great power. If your dead set on more power and have an auto tranny, then you can get a level 10 upgrade. http://www.levelten.com/ is where you can find info about that. The upgraded valve body is the most important part to handle more power. You can cut down on the shift time of the tiptronic with a tip chip. GIAC is the only choice for this. Also the automatic tranny will lose some power through the torque converter. A level 10 torque converter will probably free up some lost hp. An auto tranny can however shift a lot better than a human can in most cases, especially when you add a tip chip.

Cranks shafts are differnt from auto to manual, so you can NOT swap engines/blocks from one to the other.



How much power can the stock engine take?

Contrary to popular belief the 1.8T's engine does not have forged internals The pistons are forged Mahle's, but thats it. The limit of a completely stock 1.8T is around 400hp TQ snaps rods, not hp. What turbo you have limits the power you can make with it. A slower spooling T3T4 50trim or larger housing DBB turbo (.86 t25) will make plenty more hp safely than smaller and faster spooling turbos. The rule of thumb is 300tq on 19mm rods and 320tq on 20mm rods. Tune and boost control are very important when approaching these limits. After that your gona start snapping rods. Other than that, you dont need to touch anything else. You could swap in new pistons to lower the compression ratio, but the stock piston's have been proven to be able to handle over 700hp. If your gona be taking the engine to over 8k RPM (sometimes 7500RPM) than you'll also want to upgrade the valve springs so you dont float a valve. There are 900+ hp 1.8T's out there. The stock engine can rev to 7.5k stock (well 8k but thats risky) before needing built.

Other basic 1.8t engine facts

VW/Audi Engine Info
-058 Block: external water pump
-06A Block: internal water pump
-Displacement: 1.8L (1781cc)
-Firing Order: 1-3-4-2
-Cylinder #1 is next to the timing belt
-All catbacks are 2.17"
-Oil Capacity: 4.6qt (4.35L)
-Head bolt size: 11mm AEB, 10mm all others

[ul]Engine dimensions for OE engines:
[*]Bore size - 81mm (3.19in)
[*]Stroke - 86.4mm (3.40in)
[*]Rod Length - 144mm


What chip should I get?

Didnt see it in there, but it would be wise to buy a stock chip from a company that is local and also has a BT file available if you choose to go that route.

There is another option to a chip if you have a MAP equipped car (2000+). You could do a diode mod and be able to boost 16-18 psi safely. More info courtesy of cincyTT can be found here- https://www.audiforums.com/m_535568/tm.htm


What intake should I get?

The best intake you can probably get is Carbonio. However, this intake costs $389. That’s a a lot of money just for an intake. Personally, I would suggest an Evo intake over a Carbonio one. Costs quite a bit less but still does the job just as good. A lot of people suggest doing the air box mod. It’s cheap and does everything a new intake does but there is a little risk involved. Water may get in ingested and cause miss fires or even hydrolock. Most of the guys who have done it have never had any problem with it and highly recomend it. More info on it can be found here: https://www.audiforums.com/m_260779/tm.htm Also an intake DOES NOT add 15-20 hp as advertised by many companies. You might get a couple extra hp from a carbonio, evo intake, and even the stock air box mod, but don’t count on it. The only reason to get an intake is to make the turbo and DV more audiable. If you are going to upgrade the intake you should also invest in a heatshield, because going from a stock airbox to an intake might actually rob you of a little power. This is due to it sucking in a lot of hot air from the engine instead of from a snorkel going out to the front of the car like the stock airbox. There is a guy on audizine who sells a really good heatshield or you can make one yourself. http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ght=heatshield[*]One the 1.8t, a heat sheild isnt important. The engine bay is cool when you car moving and also the air being sucked in will come out the turbo roughly the same temp as it would as if you had a CAI. The combination on heat from the turbine and compresion of the air will heat it to practically the same temp. This differnce will then be completly negated by the ic where it will be brought down to w/e % of ambient the ic is capable of, resulting in the same iat's. As long as you dont place the intake on the maf directly above the turbo and manifold, you will be fine.[/ul]

Which exhaust/test pipe should I get?

Milltek but still provides that nice deep tone. 2.25�- 2.5� 2.5" should be the min exhaust is what you want to get. Unless you go BT, then you will want a 3� exhaust Depending on the turbo, 2.5" is plenty (low 400hp). A higher flowing exhaust should add as much as 10-15hp. If you want your car even louder and you want even more power you should also get a test pipe. The stock cat is one of the most restrictive parts on the car The cat isnt restrictive, its the diam of the pipe its attached to. The stock cat can be made to fit a 3" dp/tp. It has only cost a 500hp car all of 10hp. This part WILL add a lot of power. At 2100 RPM it adds 20 hp and 50 ft/lbs of tq. Here’s a dyno chart for it: http://www.ecodetuning.com/gallery/i...s/b7a4testpipeYou are dreaming if you think you get that kind of gain. It would just move the peaks to the left
Not everyone can install a test pipe though. It gets rid of the cat and therefore you will not be able to pass emissions with it Unless your state just scans the car. People have passed w/ tp files in there chips and since there is no code, they pass. If you live in a state without emissions you are fine, but if you have emissions you can’t. Your best bet would be to then get a high flow cat. I have an ecode test pipe in my car and it sounds great with the Borla exhaust. Getting a custom exhaust is usually the best way to go with 2.8/3.0's because of the limited aftermarket. It’ll probably run you cheaper than buying an exhaust from a company and still works great. Here are some sound clips of different exhaust’s on A4’s:

What kind of BOV should I get?

Due to the closed loop turbo system in our A4's you can not release the air into the atmosphere, you have to recirculate it back into the system. The MAF calculates air before the DV so if any air is lost after that calculation by releasing it into the atmosphere you will run rich for a little while. How damaging this is, is disputable, but on 2000+ models the car adapts to running a BOV because of the MAP sensor so you will only run rich for a day or 2. The BOV will need to stay closed at idle. A BOV that remains open at idle is not good for a car with a MAF You will stutter and stall. Forge 004 and SSQV are both closed at idle and good choices. If you run standalone software (034 Motorsports carries it) you can run any BOV you want. BT and any 1.8t run well with a Tial 50mm bov.

You completly forgot hybrinds. There are also hybrid dv/bovs. The three most popular vavles are the Forge Splitter, GFB (gofastbits), and turbosmart. The splitter is the easiest to install and run and the GFB is just a little tougher, but you can adjust the amount released to atmosphere for 10-50%. The GFB is ~$250 and the Forge is $175 and can only release 10% vta or full dv (should only be left as both since it releases more air). As for the turbosmart, it has its issures and is best left unused.

What is Water/Meth Injection?

A mixture of water and methanol is injected into the intake manifold to cool the intake charge. This allows for more timing, and more boost without knocking or detonation, and you are also able to run a race gas program on pump gas. You can use -20 deg windshield washing fluid since its 25% meth, if you can't find meth or don't wana spend the money.

It cleans cylinders, increases octane rating along with all the above. The best setup is a dual nozzle system since the closer to the TB, the better the knock protection and the further away, the better the cooling effect. The two best place to install nozzles with a dual set up would be just after the ic (never before since it would pool in the ic) and just after the TB (with a smaller jet). With a single nozzle, your best bet is to place it ~1ft from the TB to get a as much as both cooling and knock as possible. USRT usrallyteam.com has a program you download to find the size nozzles for your application. As for brands, the snowperformance and devils own are the most popular. You really should spend the extra $100 for the stg 2 kit to maximize the potential of the system. Also they come in map and maf kits. the maf is proactive since it will be spraying as the boost is hitting the mark you want to inject at while the map kit wont spray until you reach a certain psi. So you have to take those pros with the cons of the maf's **** to getting dirty and failing.

Which Turbo should I get?

K04- easiest and most reliable replacement turbo. It is a direct bolt on replacement. You don't need to replace anything but it is strongly recommended that you get new programming. The most popular is GIAC and with it you will also need a 5 bar FPR. GIAC also offers 3 aggressive files PC-16 for Pre '00, J31 for '00, and Hammer for '01. They are each different but all require an adjustable FPR, bigger injectors, fmic, and you will most likely need a new clutch soon after. If you have a B6 or B7 A4 the k04 is a pointless upgrade. You will only gain a 5-10 hp because of the k03s. It has a 1mm bigger wheel shaft, and more aggressively angled fins on the compressor wheel so it can hold more boost more efficiently. A big injector file for the k03 will put out almost the same numbers as a k04 setup. k04 will max out around 250hp

Elims- The cheapest and easiest BT setups, but produce the least power. They eliminate the need for a new exhaust manifold and testpipe like full turbo setups require But still highly recommended to produce power and spool. The gt2x (from a gt20 turbo) is only oil-cooled and has a not so good reputation, but it is the cheapest Lack of car and bad tunes did play a part in those issues. But it does have stock like spool and capable of 300hp and tq while still hold ~1bar at 7k. With proper cooling after driving (turbo timer would be suggested) and run with reasonable boost 20-22psi, there is no reason why it wont last, it is STILL as garret chra and the only chra that works with the turbine haousing given. The gtrs is a good choice. Lots more power than a k03/k04 yet has very little lag Still more than the standerd gt28rs .64 it is based off of. Also produce less hp and tq at = psi. Another choice is the 71r Elim. It has the same housing as the gtrs but a larger comressor wheel. Because of this it has slightly more lag but produces a little more power in mid-range but will get choked out in the higher rpms due to the small exhaust housing 20psi will be seen ~4700 with this turbo but will hold 18psi at 7k. In comparisson, a gt3076r on a fullrace manifold can reach 20psi about the same time. If i were gona get an elim I would get the gtrs. With each of the elims you will need bigger injectors , software, fmic or water/meth, and a clutch would be a good idea too. It's also recommended you get a braided oil return line cause the stock one is a pain to get it. GTRS will max out around 300hp. 2871r elim will max out between 350-400hp.

GT28RS- You will need to get a new exhaust manifold due to the different flange, the stock one would most likely crack and rob it horsepower anyways. You also need a new testpipe/cat or you could just get a new flange welded on. You will also need a 3" VR6 MAF, custom intake, 3" turbo inlet pipe, 2.75"-3" exhaust, FMIC, bigger injectors (660 or 440 usually depending on the software), walboro 255lph fuel pump, stage 3 or higher clutch, adjustable fpr Just need the fpr called for by the sw, and oil and coolant lines. And new mounts (all of them engine, tranny, differential, snub)Not needed, but should be considered ,a bigger oil cooler, Not needednew suspension, and bigger brakes are good ideas as well. Cost will vary depending on what you have done to your car already. For a stock A4 expect a shop to charge you 7 grand, if you can do it yourself it'll cost around 4 grand for everything. It will max out around 350hp.

GT2871R- Pretty much the same as the GT28RS only bigger. .63(you mean .64, the t3 is .63 and .82 where t25 is .64 and .86)A/R is the faster spooling one. It should be fully spooled ~3600RPM. The .86 A/R has a bit more lag (should not be used unless you REALLY dont want to swap rods or just have a dyno number, the lag is just to much), full boost right around 4KRPM, but it produces more top end power. With the .86 A/R you will need the same mods as the gt28rs, but with the .63 again A/R you will need that plus new forged connecting rods. Most people go with Scat rods (they use 20mm wrist pins. so only for AEB engines. All others need Integrated Engineering rods with 19mm wrist pins unless you go with new 20mm pistons). Some people dispute whether or not you need new rods with the .86 A/Rbut there are some guys using stock rods and haven't run into a problem...yet. And you'll also want a stage 4 clutch. 2871r will max out around 500hp There isnt a need for rods on a 2871r unless you plan on running boost past 22-23psi with race gas and/or w/m.

GT3071R- Bigger brother of the 2871r Differnt families. (gt28 and gt30 denotes the family and the turbine wheel size. The last 2 #'s are the compressor wheel's exducer size 71=71mm etc). The .63 A/R spools ~4KRPM and produces more power than the 2871r .86 A/R. There is also a .86 A/R on the 3071r which hit full boost around 4500RPM. You'll want a stage 4 or 5 clutch and new rods for both these turbos. It will max out around 600hp. T3 housings use .63 and .82a/r. The .82 shouldnt be used on anything smaller than a gt3076r and the only .86 i would use is on the gt28rs

GT3076R- slightly bigger than the 3071r but uses older Garrett technology so it doesn't spool as fast as the other gt30 series. Popular with guys who bore their engine out to 2.0L to put down sick numbers. Totally wrong. This turbo uses a 76mm compressor wheel and spools the same as a 3071 if not 100rpms later. Also where the 3071r tops out at just over 400whp, this turbo is efficent enough to reach 500whp with a proper tune and upgrades. On pump and low boost (22-24psi), expect to see just ~400whp and mid 300tq depending on mods

GT3082R/GT3040r is a combination gt30 turbine wheel and the same 82mm compressor wheel found on the gt35r and gt40r. It is a decent turbo that is capable of high 500whp and will spool between the 3076 and gt35r.

GT35R-akaGT3582, GT35/40RThe big daddy turbo. Good for 700hp+ and 10 sec 1/4 miles. Spool is expected about 47-4800 on a .63 This turbo is known to surge on stock displacement so a anti surge housing is a good idea along with a AEB head and/or stroker engine.

T3S60 - This turbo is very simular to the gt28rs but unlike the rs, it is a journal bearing turbo. It spools as fast if not faster than the 28rs while making simular numbers. The cost of this turbo is also about 1/2 of the 28rs


T3/T4- Turbo's that use a t3 turbine and a t4 compressor. These come in so many sizes and variations its ridiculous. They can produce anywhere from 300 to 700+ hp depending on the turbo and your setup. The only one that really should be used is the 50trim. It is the most effient of the 50,57 and 60 trim turbos. Unlike the gt turbos, these use old technology with journal bearings. This gives the turbo slower spool but is more gradual. This also makes it easier on the rods to where higher hp numbers can be achieved on a stock engine. The only other drawback is that the turbo doesnt respool as fast as a dbb turbo. But on the brighter side, these turbos can be had for a mear $575-625 depending on where you shop. Also the lag can be decreased by using a .48 housing or a .63 housing for more top end. A 50trim will spool just past 4k and is capable of making 350whp on pump and over 400whp on race gas and proper mods.

There are others as well, but these are the popular choices.

Ebay

The eBay intercooler- most people used to think they were all crap and did no good whatsoever. This however is not true. Most of the ones found on eBay now are actually pretty good. Just make sure its a bar and plate design and not the old tube and fin design. Never seen a tube and fin ebayicDon't ever buy a turbo setup off ebay. Most of them are glued together or have other crappy parts, especially the exhaust manifold. Due take into account that there are very nice cast atp clone manifolds available on ebay. They can be had for as little as $150 shipped. It is a great way to cut out $250 from your BT build.

FMIC
If your gona go with a name brand FMIC expect to pay anywhere between 500-1000 for the fmic and piping. Evolution Racewerks would be my choice if i had a lot of money. Or you could get an Ebay Instercooler. Most people like the Godspeed one and expect to pay ~$50 for the core and ~$100 on some universal piping. Or they sell kits with both FMIC and piping that range from $200-$400. But there is not much space to stick an intercooler behind the A4’s stock front bumper, so more cutting may be required. If the FMIC is taller than 6" you will have to cut some of the bumper support. Also try and stick with one that is under 3" thick or you'll need to do more trimming. As for piping size, if you have a k03/k04 2.25" piping is ideal, with BT setups use 2.5" piping. Reason why you dont want to put 2.5" piping while running a k03 is cause you will actually lose boost. Just make sure the intercooler is a bar and plate design.
Here's a DIY courtesy of thebishop- https://www.audiforums.com/m_382435/tm.htm
Due take into account that the Ebay cores are very low density and require a larger core to cool as effectively as a smaller denser core resulting in pressure drop. Also newer tube and fin design cores from Forge and PWR are great for lower hp cars (400bhp and less) since they cool efficently and are less restrictive than bar and plate, resulting in less lag and pressure drop, but are very costly

What oil should I use?

You should always use synthetic oil and change it every 5k miles. IMO, Amsoil is the best. Your engine will run at a cooler temp, and gas mileage slightly improves, but it is more expensive than most other oil, and most Audi places won't put it in the car since it's not on the certified list of approved oils for some reason. Mobil 1 is the most commonly used, however there was recently a lawsuit filed against them. Apparently after some lawsuit with castrol, they reformulated it into a Group III oil, not a group IV. Any group IV oil is what you want to use. If you live in cold weather you should get 0w-40, if you live in hot weather you should be putting in 10w-40. Some people use up to a 15w-50, and 5w-40 is a good universal application. You need a 502 appoved oil. The valvoline synpower 5w30 is now an approved oil and should be availble at any parts store. Also do to its lighter weight, gas milage will improve slightly.

The End

Special thanks to cincyTT and Sean1.8T, since some of this info came from me learning things from them Any time

 

i was wondering when you were gona chime in cincy. i got a test in 2 hours so i gotta study, but i'll be back on later to modify it

 

What is a big injector file?

 

a file/chip/sw for injectors that is larger than stock.

 

ok there we go, i revised it. i knew you were gona mention the TQ snapping rods thing cincy, but since sean also gave good reason for high hp snapping rods too i just gave both figures.

if you have any revisions for my revisions, feel free lol

 

That was very helpful, but like I said in my first posting, I'm looking more into the 07 2.0t, and you didn't really mention much about the B7's. What I want to do is NEUSPEED intake, GIAC chip, and Magnaflow turbo back exhaust. Any suggestions about that? Also, I haven't seen anything about putting headers into these...good or bad idea?

 

i'll add a more detailed b7 section soon. as for headers, its only a good idea if your upgrading your turbo, the stock headers flow fine for the k03