So I have been reading through CsRuby's problem with his A6 and I am having some issues with a no start condition. The only 2 codes that I get are

P0341 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0346 - Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 2)

Here is the skinny on what has been done to my car, I bought the car used with 118k on it. Previous owner beat the hell outta it. within first cpl month I replaced Aux. Water Pump, Fuel Pump. Started blowing white smoke out of exhaust after 6 months, bought a head gasket kit, head bolts, intake gaskets the works. Went to do the job, and noticed a 3 inch long crack in the wall of cylinder #1, with about 4 inches of coolant sitting on piston.

So I order a used engine with 43k on it, was a full block with a few dmged parts from them cutting away stuff. I removed all that crap, dropped the engine in, got everything all hooked back up, only to find no start. and the above 2 codes when scanned.

Now the drivers side CMP was broken on the used engine, so I swapped it out, and also swapped the other out. My question from my readings is could this be the cause of the codes? I read that I must have the relucter lined up correctly when reinstalling new CMP? If they are not lined up correctly will they throw these 2 codes. Also I checked all timing belt marks, as well as both cam chain markings, everything in that dept. lined up perfect as nothing was touched on the motor prior to me purchasing it. It was also Leakdown, compression tested prior to buying.

I have new Beru Coil Packs, NGK plugs, Beru ICM's haven't been installed yet.

 

If the sensors do have to align correctly how do I go about making sure they line up right?

 

When you put everything back together, there is a little "wheel" that goes on the end of the camshaft and gets tightened down with a bolt/washer. The CMP goes over this wheel.

When you put the wheel on the camshaft, there is a little slot in the shaft, and there is a metal clip on the wheel that sticks into that slot. The clip sometimes gets flattened if it was installed incorrectly and can be bent back out - you will see it if you look, but it's easy to miss if you don't know to look for it.

If you were unaware of this, I'd start there.

Did you use the crank lock pin and cam locking bar to set the timing?

Did you change out the timing belt on the used engine?

 

Thanks for the response Jsek, as far as the timing belt, this was not changed the engine has 43k miles on it carfax verified, crankshaft/harmonic balancer marks line up, as well as the retaining washers on the cams large holes facing each other, i pulled the valve covers to check cam chain rollers, everything was in line accordingly, i did replace both the cam sensors with working ones from my old engine, as the used one had a broken harness connector on bank 2, are both these codes related to bank 2? or is the P0341 for bank 1 as I dont remember that being specified on my vag tool. just that the P0346 was bank 2. Is there anyway to bend that metal clip on the reluctor wheel by installing a Cmp Sensor? this engine was also Run, Leakdown, and compression tested.

I am awaiting my gf's arrival to give me a jump to try and turn it over with my new coil packs/plugs installed at the moment so I have some time to take the sensor back out, or even swap it with another good one I have. Just in Case mine is in fact no good. But timing was never touched on this engine, and all marks line up.

 

Ok so I just went out to the car, I pulled the passenger side CMP sensor first to check that, all seemed well, may use some electrical contact cleaner on the connector but other than that looked good.

The Drivers side which is one I replaced with one from my previous trashed engine was to my surprise bad, I don't have my camera on me right now or I would upload a photo to see what you think, but im thinking it is the culprit. I will will explain the best that I can.

If you flip the sensor so you can see the magnet and wiring on the inside. you will see the little metal triangular piece well directly opposite the triangles front most point looks to be a small thin magnet or something where the reluctor wheel would go inbetween the triangle and this part. it is worn down the bottom half of this little pad is now white like it was scraped away.

None of my other Cmp's look this way, but coming from my old engine which had bent valves from a previous owners timing job gone bad, im thinking the sensor was chewed up when the owner went to start the car, maybe he bent part of the reluctor wheel on the old engines cam that this sensor was on and it was rubbing on the inside of the magnet.

 

Update: I put my spare CMP sensor in on Bank 2, no more Po346, Po341 codes at all, tried reading several times, no mil now at all either. I will be draining my fuel tank in a few moments, as the fuel is probably no good from the car sitting for so long. I thought it was going to fire a few times, but car has been sitting almost 2 years, although dry gassed fuel still crap im sure.

 

Ok so I went back out to give the car another shot at starting, and I noticed a clicking when turning the key to the on position and when to run position. It come from just about every relay under the dash panel, the 372 relay, 603 relay, and im sure a few others, i can put my hand on the relays and feel the click as well, not sure this is normal or not.

 

Ok so im back where I started the P0341, and P0346 codes came back, My new cmp sensors will not arrive until at least tuesday, I also have a full version Vag-Com arriving about the same time, and will run some full tests on it to see what it comes up with. New Icm's will be here Tuesday as well. Car is practically brand new in the engine compartment after all this. Irritating that I can't get it to start. Anyone have any ideas?

Things working/new:
Fuel Pump-New less than 1k miles on it.
Fuel Filter-New
Spark Plugs-NGK- new
Beru Coil Packs-New
43k engine- Run tested, leakdown tested, compression tested prior to shipping
no adjustments to timing, or timing belt components.
car gets fuel was tested today.
car was getting faint spark prior to new coil packs and plugs. so should be at least that, new Icm's on tuesday.
replaced 5 fuses, and checked all relays.
No misfire codes, only the P0341, P0346 range/performance bank 2 codes.

 

did you ever get that issue fix? I'm having that same problem right now. every things new in my car engine as well. my 01 audi s4 stage 3 one day was making a grinding noise near back of engine when i started. tuned it off and realized it was my flex plate. the rivets had broken so the plate would just spin but no torque. i fixed that issue and now my car cranks but no start. i have a apr stage 3 chip and i have my edu unlock code to unlock the anti theft on it. i get the same two codes every time i go start the car. it cranks and cranks but just won't start. i have fuel. my icm are new and so are my coil packs and spark plugs which are gaped at .25. i have done every test i can do and checked all fuses and done timing 5 times. and i get weak spark to cylinders 1,2,4,5. 3 and 6 have a bright white spark. i have used my edu from my other s4 i have and swapped all my new parts and spark plugs to my other car and i get no codes and runs really well. so i put all my stuff back on my problematic s4 and still no start. cranks but no start. it kills me cause i fix audis and vas and I've have never come across a stub urn *** car like this s4. all others its usually the cps or a coil pack or spark plugs or icm or a week starter or a bad battery. i have done a compression test and its just like new pressure minus 10 all even. did dry and wet compression and good as well. hope you were able to find out what was wrong with yours.

 

Delgado I do not have the codes anymore, after an exhausting and frustrating time trying to figure out the issue and a ton of money later replacing all ignition components, as you stated same with me my compression was good, spark was there, fuel there, as all the components for fuel and ignition were new, no anti theft on my 2000 a6. I also checked timing many times, My question is did you check your actual cam to cam timing? as this is what finally solved my issue, my cam timing was the culprit, although i get no codes now the car still just cranks. i pulled my carpet and found that the floor was flooded and got my electronics wet, the tcm, as well as the central unit.

But if you havent checked the cam to cam timing I would may have a faulty tensioner. Was the car ever running with the engine swap?