99' Audi A6 2.8l - Where are the timing marks?!?!?!
#12
03-26-2011, 08:44 AM
Two observations to contribute here - one, unless you watched which direction each cam spun, and you can counterrotate the cams at the same time as turning the crank to the right position, you're very likely to smack valves against pistons. Second, with everything set up correctly, on the 30v engine the index cylinder is NOT number one, it's number 3.
Oh, a third point - the valve covers can be removed so that the cam timing marks can be used to align the cams in each head individually. This is good because with what you've done here, pulling the belt without indexing anything or lining up the marks, the only way to reassemble it without any chance of damage (or further damage) is to pull the heads, align the cams to their proper internal marks, set the crank at its mark, and reassemble the engine. Buy new head gaskets and head hardware. And please research the process of pulling the heads BEFORE starting the job.
Oh, a third point - the valve covers can be removed so that the cam timing marks can be used to align the cams in each head individually. This is good because with what you've done here, pulling the belt without indexing anything or lining up the marks, the only way to reassemble it without any chance of damage (or further damage) is to pull the heads, align the cams to their proper internal marks, set the crank at its mark, and reassemble the engine. Buy new head gaskets and head hardware. And please research the process of pulling the heads BEFORE starting the job.
#13
03-28-2011, 08:56 PM
Ticking noise on 2.8
Hello, I was just browsing through the forum and was hoping to get some feedback from the very knowledgeable people I see here. For a possible solution to an issue I'm having.
My car is a 99 Post-facelift A4 with v6 engine and 5 speed trany, car has 94K miles and has been babied all its life.
Right after I bought the car at 70K miles, I did the timing belt myself (just belt, rollers, WP, Therm), Everything lined up, car started and runs great and has been very reliable. Lately it has developed that classic ticking (diesel) noise at the front of the engine only when it warms up. I am sure its not lifters.
My question is, which would you blame the ticking noise on?? Timing chain tensioners? Elongated chains? Worn TCT pads (I inspected and all 4 seem complete)? Loose timing belt tensioner roller? Or any other that I am missing??
Please let me know, I am doing all TCT seals, camshaft seals, etc... and would like to know if I should definitely spend $500.00+ on new TCT, rather than just new chains or pads.
Thanks in advance
My car is a 99 Post-facelift A4 with v6 engine and 5 speed trany, car has 94K miles and has been babied all its life.
Right after I bought the car at 70K miles, I did the timing belt myself (just belt, rollers, WP, Therm), Everything lined up, car started and runs great and has been very reliable. Lately it has developed that classic ticking (diesel) noise at the front of the engine only when it warms up. I am sure its not lifters.
My question is, which would you blame the ticking noise on?? Timing chain tensioners? Elongated chains? Worn TCT pads (I inspected and all 4 seem complete)? Loose timing belt tensioner roller? Or any other that I am missing??
Please let me know, I am doing all TCT seals, camshaft seals, etc... and would like to know if I should definitely spend $500.00+ on new TCT, rather than just new chains or pads.
Thanks in advance
#14
09-23-2016, 02:17 AM
Two observations to contribute here - one, unless you watched which direction each cam spun, and you can counterrotate the cams at the same time as turning the crank to the right position, you're very likely to smack valves against pistons. Second, with everything set up correctly, on the 30v engine the index cylinder is NOT number one, it's number 3.
Oh, a third point - the valve covers can be removed so that the cam timing marks can be used to align the cams in each head individually. This is good because with what you've done here, pulling the belt without indexing anything or lining up the marks, the only way to reassemble it without any chance of damage (or further damage) is to pull the heads, align the cams to their proper internal marks, set the crank at its mark, and reassemble the engine. Buy new head gaskets and head hardware. And please research the process of pulling the heads BEFORE starting the job.
Oh, a third point - the valve covers can be removed so that the cam timing marks can be used to align the cams in each head individually. This is good because with what you've done here, pulling the belt without indexing anything or lining up the marks, the only way to reassemble it without any chance of damage (or further damage) is to pull the heads, align the cams to their proper internal marks, set the crank at its mark, and reassemble the engine. Buy new head gaskets and head hardware. And please research the process of pulling the heads BEFORE starting the job.
#15
01-15-2017, 09:02 PM
please I need help I have took a part my 2000 audi a6 for replacing the timing belt and I didn't follow step by step and now my cams move after removing the tension of the belt and I didn't install the cam bar to hold in place
can anyone tell me if this can be fix? and how to realign the cams because my car wont start now
can anyone tell me if this can be fix? and how to realign the cams because my car wont start now
#17
10-18-2017, 12:44 PM
Need help timing a6 2.8
Hi I was changing the water pump in 1999 a6 2.8 and I didn't have the tool to hold the cams in place so when I removed the belt it must've had tension on the cam so it moved when I took the belt off. So my question is can I just twist the cam back to the marks I made On cam and belt or do I have to reset all the timing marks on crank and cams ?
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