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Audi A6 The mid-sized Audi A6 model offers more room to the driver and passengers over the A4 line.

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  #1  
Old 03-09-2009, 06:22 PM
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Default A6 Axle boot or replacement

Hi All,
My Audi A6 has Front (passenger side, outer) axle boot is damaged.

I have two advises by the two different mechanics:

1) Have the boot replaced only for now.

2) That I should have the whole front axle (that comes with boots) replaced with a refurbished one.

Please advise which route should I go?
There is a minor difference in the cost.

The logic of the second mechanic is that if one boot is damaged the other one will follow soon. Therefore they will take my axle and send it to the manufacturer and instead provide me with the manufacture's refurbished axle that comes with a 1 year warrenty.

I am confused as i don't know about refurbished parts much. Please advise. ASAP. thanks.

Roop
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  #2  
Old 03-09-2009, 08:22 PM
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I always go the refurb route because I get both boots and the extra you spend for parts is saved in time.
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  #3  
Old 03-09-2009, 10:02 PM
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Which year Audi? Which engine and transmission? How many miles? Does the inner boot have any hair line cracks? How long has the boot been damaged?
On my 1996 Audi A6 with 2.8L 12 valve AFC engine and automatic transmission, the catalytic converter pipe makes axle removal more difficult on the right side. Unfortunately, the BentleyPublishers.com Audi shop manual is no help. So either I have to remove the catalytic converter or get the lower control arm ball joint out of the knuckle. The equalizer bar makes removing the ball joint from the knuckle difficult. Perhaps by compressing the right spring it may be done. Removing the catalytic converter usually results in several broken exhaust manifold studs, if they are badly corroded. The catalytic converter must be removed to check the center differential fluid level. So, on the right side I would have both boots replaced, but only if required on the left side. Removing the inner boot requires removing the outer CV joint from the front axle if you have an automatic transmission.
If The CV joint makes a clunking noise, then it could be worn out or the noise may be from something else such as suspension or an engine mount. So, if the CV joints are very quiet, then new boots would be possible.
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  #4  
Old 03-09-2009, 11:16 PM
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Just curious what are you being quoted price wise for each?
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  #5  
Old 03-09-2009, 11:59 PM
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Default Axle Boot

Thanks everyone for your prompt responses.

Its Audi A6 Quattro 3.0, Model 2003, Automatic Transmission, with 81000 miles on it.

Workshop thinks the boot may be broken recently as it looks fresh. When the car was up on the lift I could see the greece spread all around.

By the way I recently had oxygen sensor and catalytic converter changed too.

I am not sure if the inner boot has any hairline cracks but the guy did tell me that the opposite (passenger side) outer boot is week too although it does not require replacement at this point.

So should I be replacing only the broken boot and pay $185 or go for the refurbished axle for $230. Please advise what should be the course of action based on the above detailed car information. thanks.

Last edited by roopngr; 03-10-2009 at 12:07 AM.
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  #6  
Old 03-10-2009, 12:25 AM
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Check for your curiosity RockAutoParts, and get informed on prices from other sites as well before throwing at the mechanics whatever they ask for.
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A6 Axle boot or replacement-cv.jpg  
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  #7  
Old 03-10-2009, 12:43 AM
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Chefro, thanks for the link.

Just this past week I had a shop quote me the following prices.

Replace snub mount and motor mounts = $1000
Replace Axle = $1200
Power Steering Pump (part only) = $600

I never gave him time to give me the price to install the $600 pump.... Told him I would pick the car up because I really felt the prices were out of whack.
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  #8  
Old 03-10-2009, 01:08 AM
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Default whats next?

Thanks for the link- but I guess you need to guide me now what to do and where to go (in NYC) after purchasing this part at low price. If I take the part to the same workshop how much labor should I pay. If they might charge me $100 or more labor for replacing it, the total comes up around $200 again. any suggestions / advice is appreciated. thanks.

Last edited by roopngr; 03-10-2009 at 01:12 AM.
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  #9  
Old 03-10-2009, 01:50 AM
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Well...
I suggest that you can replace the axle(s) yourself.
Here is a good DIY write-up on how to, even if it was done on an A4. The same principles should apply to the A6 as well.
I would imagine you know a little bit about cars and able to keep a wrench in your hand since you went into owning a maintenance-expensive car.
Even if you don't possess any mechanical abilities, do you have at least a friend or friends with auto mechanical background? He/they can help you replace the axle, so you don't have to take the car to a shop.

However, even if you don't (want) to go this route, you should shop around before making your decision. I would assume you can find at least 20 shops in NYC that do work on Audis. Knowing now the price of a NEW OR Remanufactured axle gives you a better leverage in finding a shop, whatever shop you decide to take your car to.
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  #10  
Old 03-10-2009, 09:57 AM
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Default Great Guidance

Chefro
Thanks a lot buddy. IT should cut my cost of relacement to half if I find a reasonable shop. On the other hand I think I will try to do it my self-
Do you think I can drive the car with broken boot until the part arrives or it can cause further damages?

again thanks for all your help and time.

Roop
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  #11  
Old 03-10-2009, 11:37 AM
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You don't need to replace the entire axle. You can replace the CV joint itself without replacing the whole thing. The repair kit including the CV joint, boot and related accessories for about $100. Also I just noticed that ECStuning is selling the entire axle assembly for $125. Can't beat that.
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  #12  
Old 03-10-2009, 12:02 PM
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Labor -1.5h
Kit price- $22

Good German boot is JKN by LOBRO

Time ago Auditech79 stated that Audi cv joints are very robust and very hard to fail.

One could drive with torn cv boot given there is not much of a water, dust or salt on the road.

I'll replace my front left outer cv boot sometime this week.

There are 3 options I consider:

1. Following service manual - opening the pinch bolt for the top control arms => non-advisable procedure.

2. Opening the lower ball joints
2.1. replacing the boot on the car
2.2. pulling the shaft complete from the car

3. Opening the inner end of the shaft and pulling the shaft w/o opening any ball joins?

Is the later possible?
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  #13  
Old 03-10-2009, 12:23 PM
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A comment on the tightener specs from the DIY material:

Looks to me that the described tightening procedure is no longer supported-

a strait torque value of 190 NM is specified in the service manuals.

An addition - it's not uncommon to have situation where the pinch bolt is welding-type seized.
Nothing but complete drilling the bolt is the way to get it out.

Last edited by nemohm; 03-10-2009 at 12:32 PM.
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  #14  
Old 03-10-2009, 12:30 PM
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I've heard some people say they can do #3 but I believe they have to put the shaft into a bind and use a hammer to get it in and out. I always pull the ball joints - but then I have the tools and enjoy seeing suspension parts dangling.
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  #15  
Old 03-10-2009, 04:54 PM
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Is performing a front alignment a "must do" after replacing any or both side boots, joints, or the whole axle (provided it has to come out of the wheel hub)?


On a different note,
could new flange bolts (the six 12-point ones) be found separately at part stores?
I came across the axle bolts, only.
Thanks.
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  #16  
Old 03-10-2009, 05:33 PM
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Default Latest on Axle Boot

Hi Guys,
Something to share with you and to seek advice:
These refurbished axles available in open market and these websites for the price of $50-150 are not considered reliable by many mechanics. The shop that recomended me refurbished is insisting that its reliable and has one year part warrenty and that I should have it replaced and give them my origional since its useless. Whereas the other shop is not even willing to buy one for me and says if I don't hear any sound during sharp turns then there is no need to replace the genuine axle especially with a refurbished one. Their argument is why buy someone else's headache? What if it starts giving trouble after a few 1000 miles again? Just replace genuine boot and retain the origionality.

any one with the similar experience. any suggestion?

Last edited by roopngr; 03-10-2009 at 05:36 PM.
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  #17  
Old 03-10-2009, 05:44 PM
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I understand the reason behind the comment from the mechanic regarding the parts reliability... but it is BS. Mechanics make profit on part sales because they put markup on top of it.

But anyways, I would listen to the second mechanic about not replacing the axle or the CV joint. If there is no noticible noise coming from the joint, then it should be pretty much good. Just remove the old boot, repack with grease and install new boot and call it done.
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2004 V70R M66 - Current
2001 A6 Avant - Past
2.8 ATQ, Quattro, Tiptronic
Mods - Was chipped, but not now... Was using K&N, but not now...
Repairs - Too many to list! And you wonder why I still drive an Audi So I don't drive one now.
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  #18  
Old 03-10-2009, 08:46 PM
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Those low prices don't usually include shipping or core charges. The real risk is that you could be swapping a good axle with a torn boot for a high mileage worn out junkyard special with low quality boots. That is why it is good to check the return policy before buying.
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  #19  
Old 03-11-2009, 06:38 AM
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I bought a pair of inexpensive NEW axles and they lasted three days. I then bought a rebuild axle and it was bad sitting in the box. I wound up just replacing the boot on my old axle.

The outer CV joint is much easier to get off if the axle is out of the car.

#1 is the only way to go. You will need to undo the tie rod end as well. PB Blaster is your friend!

#2 - in order to get the front lower control arm ball joint out, you have to first remove the axle...

#3 - will not happen

Good luck,

Bob
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  #20  
Old 03-11-2009, 10:56 AM
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Correction:

The proper tightening procedure for the drive shaft is:

Tighten hex bolt for drive axle. Only tighten when vehicle is standing on its wheels to avoid danger of accidents.
Hex bolt M14: 115 Nm plus an additional 180 turn.
Hex bolt M16: 190 Nm plus an additional 180 turn.


Bob,

As per service manual the lower control arms joints are to be opened with shaft in.
This is the procedure followed by most of the shops I spoke to.

Will post the impressions after the job is done.
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Old 03-11-2009, 10:56 AM
 
 
 
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28, a6, allroad, audi, axle, boot, catalytic, converter, cost, cv, install, procedure, remove, replace, replacement, replacing


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