A6 Axle boot or replacement
#1
A6 Axle boot or replacement
Hi All,
My Audi A6 has Front (passenger side, outer) axle boot is damaged.
I have two advises by the two different mechanics:
1) Have the boot replaced only for now.
2) That I should have the whole front axle (that comes with boots) replaced with a refurbished one.
Please advise which route should I go?
There is a minor difference in the cost.
The logic of the second mechanic is that if one boot is damaged the other one will follow soon. Therefore they will take my axle and send it to the manufacturer and instead provide me with the manufacture's refurbished axle that comes with a 1 year warrenty.
I am confused as i don't know about refurbished parts much. Please advise. ASAP. thanks.
Roop
My Audi A6 has Front (passenger side, outer) axle boot is damaged.
I have two advises by the two different mechanics:
1) Have the boot replaced only for now.
2) That I should have the whole front axle (that comes with boots) replaced with a refurbished one.
Please advise which route should I go?
There is a minor difference in the cost.
The logic of the second mechanic is that if one boot is damaged the other one will follow soon. Therefore they will take my axle and send it to the manufacturer and instead provide me with the manufacture's refurbished axle that comes with a 1 year warrenty.
I am confused as i don't know about refurbished parts much. Please advise. ASAP. thanks.
Roop
#3
Which year Audi? Which engine and transmission? How many miles? Does the inner boot have any hair line cracks? How long has the boot been damaged?
On my 1996 Audi A6 with 2.8L 12 valve AFC engine and automatic transmission, the catalytic converter pipe makes axle removal more difficult on the right side. Unfortunately, the BentleyPublishers.com Audi shop manual is no help. So either I have to remove the catalytic converter or get the lower control arm ball joint out of the knuckle. The equalizer bar makes removing the ball joint from the knuckle difficult. Perhaps by compressing the right spring it may be done. Removing the catalytic converter usually results in several broken exhaust manifold studs, if they are badly corroded. The catalytic converter must be removed to check the center differential fluid level. So, on the right side I would have both boots replaced, but only if required on the left side. Removing the inner boot requires removing the outer CV joint from the front axle if you have an automatic transmission.
If The CV joint makes a clunking noise, then it could be worn out or the noise may be from something else such as suspension or an engine mount. So, if the CV joints are very quiet, then new boots would be possible.
On my 1996 Audi A6 with 2.8L 12 valve AFC engine and automatic transmission, the catalytic converter pipe makes axle removal more difficult on the right side. Unfortunately, the BentleyPublishers.com Audi shop manual is no help. So either I have to remove the catalytic converter or get the lower control arm ball joint out of the knuckle. The equalizer bar makes removing the ball joint from the knuckle difficult. Perhaps by compressing the right spring it may be done. Removing the catalytic converter usually results in several broken exhaust manifold studs, if they are badly corroded. The catalytic converter must be removed to check the center differential fluid level. So, on the right side I would have both boots replaced, but only if required on the left side. Removing the inner boot requires removing the outer CV joint from the front axle if you have an automatic transmission.
If The CV joint makes a clunking noise, then it could be worn out or the noise may be from something else such as suspension or an engine mount. So, if the CV joints are very quiet, then new boots would be possible.
#5
Axle Boot
Thanks everyone for your prompt responses.
Its Audi A6 Quattro 3.0, Model 2003, Automatic Transmission, with 81000 miles on it.
Workshop thinks the boot may be broken recently as it looks fresh. When the car was up on the lift I could see the greece spread all around.
By the way I recently had oxygen sensor and catalytic converter changed too.
I am not sure if the inner boot has any hairline cracks but the guy did tell me that the opposite (passenger side) outer boot is week too although it does not require replacement at this point.
So should I be replacing only the broken boot and pay $185 or go for the refurbished axle for $230. Please advise what should be the course of action based on the above detailed car information. thanks.
Its Audi A6 Quattro 3.0, Model 2003, Automatic Transmission, with 81000 miles on it.
Workshop thinks the boot may be broken recently as it looks fresh. When the car was up on the lift I could see the greece spread all around.
By the way I recently had oxygen sensor and catalytic converter changed too.
I am not sure if the inner boot has any hairline cracks but the guy did tell me that the opposite (passenger side) outer boot is week too although it does not require replacement at this point.
So should I be replacing only the broken boot and pay $185 or go for the refurbished axle for $230. Please advise what should be the course of action based on the above detailed car information. thanks.
Last edited by roopngr; 03-10-2009 at 12:07 AM.
#6
Check for your curiosity RockAutoParts, and get informed on prices from other sites as well before throwing at the mechanics whatever they ask for.
#7
Chefro, thanks for the link.
Just this past week I had a shop quote me the following prices.
Replace snub mount and motor mounts = $1000
Replace Axle = $1200
Power Steering Pump (part only) = $600
I never gave him time to give me the price to install the $600 pump.... Told him I would pick the car up because I really felt the prices were out of whack.
Just this past week I had a shop quote me the following prices.
Replace snub mount and motor mounts = $1000
Replace Axle = $1200
Power Steering Pump (part only) = $600
I never gave him time to give me the price to install the $600 pump.... Told him I would pick the car up because I really felt the prices were out of whack.
#8
whats next?
Thanks for the link- but I guess you need to guide me now what to do and where to go (in NYC) after purchasing this part at low price. If I take the part to the same workshop how much labor should I pay. If they might charge me $100 or more labor for replacing it, the total comes up around $200 again. any suggestions / advice is appreciated. thanks.
Last edited by roopngr; 03-10-2009 at 01:12 AM.
#9
Well...
I suggest that you can replace the axle(s) yourself.
Here is a good DIY write-up on how to, even if it was done on an A4. The same principles should apply to the A6 as well.
I would imagine you know a little bit about cars and able to keep a wrench in your hand since you went into owning a maintenance-expensive car.
Even if you don't possess any mechanical abilities, do you have at least a friend or friends with auto mechanical background? He/they can help you replace the axle, so you don't have to take the car to a shop.
However, even if you don't (want) to go this route, you should shop around before making your decision. I would assume you can find at least 20 shops in NYC that do work on Audis. Knowing now the price of a NEW OR Remanufactured axle gives you a better leverage in finding a shop, whatever shop you decide to take your car to.
I suggest that you can replace the axle(s) yourself.
Here is a good DIY write-up on how to, even if it was done on an A4. The same principles should apply to the A6 as well.
I would imagine you know a little bit about cars and able to keep a wrench in your hand since you went into owning a maintenance-expensive car.
Even if you don't possess any mechanical abilities, do you have at least a friend or friends with auto mechanical background? He/they can help you replace the axle, so you don't have to take the car to a shop.
However, even if you don't (want) to go this route, you should shop around before making your decision. I would assume you can find at least 20 shops in NYC that do work on Audis. Knowing now the price of a NEW OR Remanufactured axle gives you a better leverage in finding a shop, whatever shop you decide to take your car to.
#10
Great Guidance
Chefro
Thanks a lot buddy. IT should cut my cost of relacement to half if I find a reasonable shop. On the other hand I think I will try to do it my self-
Do you think I can drive the car with broken boot until the part arrives or it can cause further damages?
again thanks for all your help and time.
Roop
Thanks a lot buddy. IT should cut my cost of relacement to half if I find a reasonable shop. On the other hand I think I will try to do it my self-
Do you think I can drive the car with broken boot until the part arrives or it can cause further damages?
again thanks for all your help and time.
Roop