How to I replace my alternator- another problem inside
#1
How to I replace my alternator- another problem inside
To start, I need to replace my alternator, I got it from autozone and I think it's defected since its producing too much power and blowing few fuses (window and interior lights for example)
Is there a how to? There aren't too many Audi mechanics around
Also I think this is alternator related, but the cars acts funny, it seems like its stuck in second gear when I slow down and it doesn't shift...here's what I see, I have to shut the car off and start again to restart this
Is there a how to? There aren't too many Audi mechanics around
Also I think this is alternator related, but the cars acts funny, it seems like its stuck in second gear when I slow down and it doesn't shift...here's what I see, I have to shut the car off and start again to restart this
#2
First mistake you made was buying it from Autozone(4yrs max before you'll have to replace). It looks like your in limp mode. If you access to VCDS/VAG COM scan your car and check for faults. You maybe have a defected alternator that's setting off ECM and TCM.
#3
All kinds of crazy stuff will happen with too much or not enough power. My alternator died just 1 week ago and my battery light came on. I made it home but about my car was slowly shutting down. ESP, ABS lights came on, heater shut off, radio shut off, more dash lights and check engine lights came on, limp mode activated. I was really afraid I wouldn't make it but I just got into my drive way before the battery was depleted
Yesterday I installed a reman. Bosch alternator, cleared all the codes (like 50 codes or so) and it runs like a charm.
I don't like the looks of your last pictures. The volt meter shows almost 16v (red) which could indicate too much power going to it. Simple test though: Get a volt meter, turn on the car and check the Voltage of your battery ... now turn on the headlights (or high beams) and measure again, finally rev the engine to 3k and see if the headlights go brighter while you do that (also measure voltage). If the lights go very bright while revving the engine you do have an alternator that gives too much. The volt meter will at least give you some numbers to work with to prove to yourself it is bad.
+1 on bad choice for getting Autozone generic alternator.
You could go to a shop that can put a load on the car to test the battery and alternator too - if you don't want to deal with checking yourself.
Hopefully that will resolve your limp mode issue.
Yesterday I installed a reman. Bosch alternator, cleared all the codes (like 50 codes or so) and it runs like a charm.
I don't like the looks of your last pictures. The volt meter shows almost 16v (red) which could indicate too much power going to it. Simple test though: Get a volt meter, turn on the car and check the Voltage of your battery ... now turn on the headlights (or high beams) and measure again, finally rev the engine to 3k and see if the headlights go brighter while you do that (also measure voltage). If the lights go very bright while revving the engine you do have an alternator that gives too much. The volt meter will at least give you some numbers to work with to prove to yourself it is bad.
+1 on bad choice for getting Autozone generic alternator.
You could go to a shop that can put a load on the car to test the battery and alternator too - if you don't want to deal with checking yourself.
Hopefully that will resolve your limp mode issue.
#4
Yea I was wrong into going into autozone, found advance auto has a bosch, might go with that if the dealer price is outrageous,
Is there a how to or any advice of to how to change it? The one I was is telling me to basically take a complete front end off, is that really necessary or is there a easier way?
Is there a how to or any advice of to how to change it? The one I was is telling me to basically take a complete front end off, is that really necessary or is there a easier way?
#5
Officially you have to put the car into service position to replace the alternator.
However I cheated because I just replaced my timing belt 2 months ago and refused to drain the coolant again to get into the service position.
Anyways, I took just the bumper off and loosened the bolts around the bumper support frame so I could pull the frame away about 1 inch (more is not possible without disconnecting all the hoses for the coolant, etc). This gave me enough clearance to remove the serpentine belt and after some wiggling the alternator itself as well. You might have to loosen up some screws and gently push away some hoses or wires to gain better access but it is possible
However I cheated because I just replaced my timing belt 2 months ago and refused to drain the coolant again to get into the service position.
Anyways, I took just the bumper off and loosened the bolts around the bumper support frame so I could pull the frame away about 1 inch (more is not possible without disconnecting all the hoses for the coolant, etc). This gave me enough clearance to remove the serpentine belt and after some wiggling the alternator itself as well. You might have to loosen up some screws and gently push away some hoses or wires to gain better access but it is possible
#6
Officially you have to put the car into service position to replace the alternator.
However I cheated because I just replaced my timing belt 2 months ago and refused to drain the coolant again to get into the service position.
Anyways, I took just the bumper off and loosened the bolts around the bumper support frame so I could pull the frame away about 1 inch (more is not possible without disconnecting all the hoses for the coolant, etc). This gave me enough clearance to remove the serpentine belt and after some wiggling the alternator itself as well. You might have to loosen up some screws and gently push away some hoses or wires to gain better access but it is possible
However I cheated because I just replaced my timing belt 2 months ago and refused to drain the coolant again to get into the service position.
Anyways, I took just the bumper off and loosened the bolts around the bumper support frame so I could pull the frame away about 1 inch (more is not possible without disconnecting all the hoses for the coolant, etc). This gave me enough clearance to remove the serpentine belt and after some wiggling the alternator itself as well. You might have to loosen up some screws and gently push away some hoses or wires to gain better access but it is possible
#7
For some reason I was under the impression service position is removing the lock carrier - sorry and thanks for educating me. However I can't see how you get 4-6 inches out of there. I get maybe 1 or 2 inches before the coolant hoses to the radiator stretch and make it impossible to go any further without draining.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post