1/4 hole off will throw a code. I think you may have hit the jack pot. Once again and anyone and everyone who is doing timing belt, get the tool.

 

I hope the slight misalignment was the problem. I'll be a true believer after reassembly & no codes. I've got TB, tensioner, pulleys on order, just to be certain all this stuff is taken care of, because I know tensioner & pulleys weren't changed by prior owner. New TB just for my comfort of knowing, for sure, that it's new. I'll update here after it's back together.

Came across this thread #57 & 59 that shows cam chain count.
https://www.audiforums.com/forum/aud...-119678/page6/
Ours is same on passenger side & I never changed it. Pics in Bentley appear to also count the roller to the left of the exhaust notch, because the notch is slightly offset from being aligned to the sprocket tooth. So, IMO this guys pic agrees with the "16" count approach when counting this offset roller too. I noticed hxgaser was even giving good advise even back then.

All this makes me feel good that passenger side (bank 1) cam chain is correct. This is one of the 1st pics I found (& maybe I'm not looking good enough?) that shows the chain layout for bank 2 side, because I know the intake cam notches are not at same location between bank 1 vs bank 2, as his pic shows.

Bad news is that I added one roller to bank 2 side during 1st rebuild, thinking it was incorrect back then. So...is it right chain count for bank 2 or is it wrong??? Vagcom didn't indicate any missfires on bank 2, only bank 1, & it indicated bank 2 cam timing within spec. . Boy this is issue is driving me nuts. I think we may just reassemble, as-is (maybe!) & see what we get when timing setup using all the right tools. If we then throw codes for bank 2, then we'll have to go back in & redo that side. Remember this is the side I hand carried into Audi dealership & talked to service tech. He seemed confident that I needed to add a roller, as I did. So pic in thread 57 of above post shows 14 rollers, where I now have 15.

Lastly, so far I'm pretty proud of micro repair to the ABS module. Of course, that bubble would quickly break if, when I test it, it still doesn't work. But I'm feeling more confident that my ABS repair "fixed" the problem, than I am feeling about the cam chain timing issue. Since I only used a drop of the silver epoxy, I may try to flip it on ebay or here as barely used.

 

My 98 is like this and previous owner tried to 'fix' it, now I have no rear foglight :-)

 

Changed TB, tensioner, pulleys, etc. just for comfort of knowing these are new now. Changed bank 2 (only) cam chains back to 14 count based on other sites that make note of the difference between bank 1 & 2. So cam chains on both banks are now same as when we got car. Used crack lock pin & cam lock bar to align TB with loose cam sprockets. Pretensioned TB to equalize belt tension, then torqued down sprockets. Hand cranked it 2-4-6 times & each time lock bar fitup perfect. Reassembled w/ new cam position sensor & ignition control modules too. Down to these codes now:

18014 - Rough Road/Engine Torque Signal from ABS
P1606 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
P1340 - 35-00 - Incor. Correlation16487 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0103 - 35-10 - Signal too High - IntermittentHere's pic of MAF connector. Plastic interior alignment piece falling apart. Looks like I need to change the connector. Anyone know if dealers or others carry replacement connector?

 

I think the part number is 1J0973775A. It should be written on the connector itself? Call any Audi dealer parts desk and the should get you one.

 

Thanks hxgaser. Did you pull this p/n off your connector? If so, did it connect to bosch MAF sensor? It sounds as if Audi changed MAF from bosch to hitachi after 2000.

 

I did a little google search. Not mine. But take a look at your connector. It should be on there. As with any other VAG parts...

 

Another oddity here. Only 4 wires going to my MAF connector, but the connector design has 5 wire slots (1 which isn't used). I'm pretty certain the MAF sensor itself has 5 flat pins on it, so it needs a 5 slot connector. I'm at work now, but will recheck when I get home. The p/n hxgaser gave (1J0973775A) matches my connector. The pink insert is a dead give-away, & it also is a 5 slot design, of which I would wire to 4. Genuine VW / Audi AWW,ALH,AEG,AFP,AIR MASS HOUSING CONNECTOR (1J0-973-775-A / 1J0973775A)
Of course they don't list my engine code type(APB), but this pic sjows it's same as mine, except not broken.

This is the p/n audi parts gave me (1J0973704). Genuine VW / Audi HOUSING (1J0-973-704 / 1J0973704)
It's a 4 wire, 4 slot design, & obviously not the exact same as mine. AND if I'm remembering correctly the 5 pins on the bosch MAF sensor will not mate to the 4 slot connector. Is there some MAF history that could explain 4 vs 5 pin connectors?
Hxgaser, if you pulled p/n from your MAF, do you also only have 4 wires going into it, where slot #1 is empty?

 

CRuby, the number that I gave you was from a web research, NOT from my car. As you mentioned earlier, I have Hitachi MAF. But I will check what is on my car once I get home this evening.

 

Got the MAF connector apart. Connector housing is p/n 1J0973775A. 5 pin connector with only 4 wires going to it, but 5 male pins on MAF. Connector came apart pretty easy since the pink piece just fell out & most of the internal black alignment tabs were broke too. Didn't even mess up the wire clips & their retention tabs. I think I'll just replace the connector housing, since wires & clips look good, they just weren't aligned with the MAF male pins, so intermittent connection. $7 part + $15 shipping.