Hi. Im new here. I recently acquired a 96 A6 Quattro from a friend of mine. Basically it was partial payment for a bathroom remodel. All I knew about the car was that everything was fine, and then one day it started making a horrible noise on the way home. The owner is not really mechanically inclined, but he knew something was wrong so he shut it down and had it towed to a mechanic. The mechanic quoted him about 1200 to fix it, and metioned something about the timing belt. It didnt sound good, but I figured what the hell, its basically free. I'll take it.
I tore it down to find the water pump had basically grenaded itself. The impeller broke into pieces. The water dripping out below also killed the bearing in the idler pulley. I can't believe this belt didnt break! I would have given it maybe 30 more seconds of run time before it broke completely, causing catastrophic failure.
So I got the parts I need, and im getting to it right now. I even got my hands on the cam holding tool. Theres no timing marks!! Wtf!?!? Who does that!?!
Basically, what else am I looking for? What secondary damages could there be? What else should I change while im in there? And where is the thermostat? Any input is appreciated. Thanks. Oh ya, its the 2.8 liter, with about 200k miles, and almost immaculate service records. (Except of course, the water pump and timing belt)

 

Ok. I did the timing belt, water pump, tensioner pulley, and idler. Got it back together. But when I started it up, I immediately heard a terrible ticking sound! I thought I messed up. So I pulled the covers, turned to tdc, and threw the cam tool on. It looks perfect. Everything is lined up beautifully. I am hoping its the lifters, because the car sat for about 8 months. Upon looking at youtube, I heard some of the other 2.8's with what sounded like the same tick. Is this normal? Im scared to run it again, but I have changed many timing belts and im pretty certain its accurate. The only thing I noticed is that the belt was really tight. Tighter than when I installed. How do I make sure the tension correct? Is there a measurement?

 

How tight the belt is will not affect the timing, unless it's too lose that it. That there may also be your problem. The tension for the belt though is 1/4" of movement either side of center between the tensioner and left cam sprocket.

When the water pump and idler gave out, the belt may have jumped teeth on the cams. These 2.8s are interference motors, which means when the timing belt gives out, the valves touch the pistons and bend.

If you're really lucky, you've just got a piece of pump impeller still in the pump cavity.

If you're lucky you only need a couple of new valves.

If you're out of luck, the head of one of the valves has snapped off and rattled around inside a cylinder.

Most off the time it'll be a couple of bent valves and a tiny dent, almost like a scratch, in the piston. Seeing as you've already bought everything else it's more about tear down and rebuild time than money.

I just rebuilt my 97 a6 last year so ask away if you need help.

 

Well, I pulled the covers and made damn sure the timing was spot on, and it was. I decided that whatever damage was done, is already done. So I fired it up and let it idle up to normal temp. The ticking got progressively quieter and then went away completely! Its still a good motor. I have put about 100 miles on it so far and everything seems OK. Now im on to the little things. Got the radio working (it was the fuse in the back). Buffed out the paint and got her nice and slick black again, except for a bad spot on the hood where brake fluid or something was spilled on it. The central lock mech. is only working sometimes. I read that its pneumatic? And it take two people to open the trunk because the lift shocks are bad, and for some reason I cannot open it with the key? Someone has to push the button while I lift it. Unless nobody is home and I locked my toolbox in there. Then I used a super long stick, donated from the apple tree outside . It tends to idle a bit low and runs rough when the a/c is on. Im hoping this will go away with plugs, wires, etc.
What do you guys recommend for tune up products? What plugs, wires, fluids etc... have u guys had the best luck with? I found the o.e.m. trans fluid from pelican parts but its crazy expensive!

 

We share the same with the trunk. My key will simply not go in the lock because it's plugged up with road dirt and salt. Mine though differs from yours in that I can press the button in the glove box then walk around the back and open it.

The transmission fluid, I was lucky with. Some of these trannys are filled with the expensive stuff (brown in colour) and some of them are filled with mercon 3 (red). Mine was mercon and we use a lot of this at work. Them allowing me to take 8 quarts was no problem. My car stood for nearly two years so I got a lot of fluid to drain out. You may only need 6 quarts.

If your car has settled down and is not ticking anymore, then that COULD be a good thing? I would still do a pressure test to check all is ok.

I put Castrol high mileage semi synth with a Bosch filter in the motor, a k&n type filter in the air box. Some people have trouble with oil getting on the MAF do make sure it's not soaking in oil. I used Bosch platinum 4 plugs though I think ngk are original equipment and the leads are oem, but they were what was on the car when I got it and they work fine. I put delo extended life coolant in. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0037M295C?pc_redir=1407217452&robot_redir=1
Again, I was lucky and got it free BUT it is also equal to the pentosin in additives and colour.

Yes, the central locking uses vacuum to work (YAAYYYY! :-\) do you might have a leak somewhere.

It will idle differently even the air con kicks in because the compressor is putting a load on the motor. Mine sounds like it's about to stall just as the cooling fans come on too, but it's fine.

Now I have a question for you! My radio is also dead for no reason. Did you have to remove the radio to get at the fuse or was it accessible behind the console from one of the foot wells?

 

You will have to pull the radio. But its not very difficult. Im assuming you have the Bose system with a tape deck, and cd changer in the trunk? There are two tiny slots on the bottom corner of the radio. I snapped a hacksaw blade in half, and made them a bit thinner on the grinder until they fit right. You could probably use nail files if you can't find anything else. Push them into the slots, a bit harder than you are comfortable with. You will feel them engage the little clips and then give one more little push (about another 1/2 inch) to get it loose. You can then get a screwdriver or similar flat object and very...very carefully pry on the face while pulling outward with your finger in the tape slot and it should come out. The fuse is on the drivers side of the radio next to the din plugs just like a modern deck. Make sure you replace it with a 5 amp. Its there to protect the radio during a short. Should come right on. If not, check all your connections.
I have tape and radio now but I still cant get it to recognize the cd changer. Thats tonights project.

 

Awesome, thanks for that. Yes, it's the Bose with tape and CD changer.

My battery was dead and I think when I connected it to my explorer to jump it, it blew.

 

You can buy the radio keys got $4 at Walmart. By their stereo stuff, they have plastic cards with keys. One has the tools for Ford and Audi in it. Get that and you'll have the right keys - pop them in until they engage, and pull on them to remove the radio.

 

Never thought about looking at Walmart. Cool!

 

How much of a p.i.t.a. is it to do the trans service? I got a quote from a shop for $70. That sounds a little too good to me. Like. ..maybe they just flush it and call it done instead of dropping the pan and cleaning everything out like I would. Im gonna have to find out what fluid it takes. I was hoping the pan drops straight down. That way I could fill it up and carefully bolt it back on.
Lifetime fluid! HAHAHA