Rear caliper stuck to rotor
#1
Rear caliper stuck to rotor
Doing a 4 wheel pad replacement, three of them went smoothly but the rear passenger side caliper is stuck on the rotor. Normally I would use something to pry the piston back but these need to be rotated in order to be depressed.
I think I might have had the parking brake engaged when I started, then I disengaged it with all the bolts for the caliper already removed. I've tried putting the car in gear, messing with the parking brake, filling up the brake fluid. Not sure what to do next.
I think I might have had the parking brake engaged when I started, then I disengaged it with all the bolts for the caliper already removed. I've tried putting the car in gear, messing with the parking brake, filling up the brake fluid. Not sure what to do next.
#2
If you are looking for extreme solutions you could try getting a thin chisle and knock out some of the brake pad material. If your pads are down to nothing than I am out of ideas. I couldn't get my rotors off on a recent brake job and had to use a gear puller to get it off with the liberal use of the BFH. Needless to say I had to replace the rotors.
#3
I assume that the wheel rotates and the pads are not really stuck to the rotor.
If I am right the ridge on the rotor is causing the problem. This indicates that there has been a lot of wear and buildup on that rotor and it needs to be replaced. (always do both sides L&R in pairs) You can just grind the ridge off both sides of the rotor and pull the caliper. I always remove the ridge/buildup when doing rear brakes and not replacing the rotors just to help the rear pads seat better
Usually when it is that worn you’ll find that the caliper is hesitant to go back in and you’ll need a new one. I suggest getting a rebuilt one cause new is really expensive.
As Lugiv—says sometimes you can’t get the rotors off because a bunch of crap has worked it’s way between the hub and rotor boss. In that case liberal PB blaster and a BFH is the only way to go.
If I am right the ridge on the rotor is causing the problem. This indicates that there has been a lot of wear and buildup on that rotor and it needs to be replaced. (always do both sides L&R in pairs) You can just grind the ridge off both sides of the rotor and pull the caliper. I always remove the ridge/buildup when doing rear brakes and not replacing the rotors just to help the rear pads seat better
Usually when it is that worn you’ll find that the caliper is hesitant to go back in and you’ll need a new one. I suggest getting a rebuilt one cause new is really expensive.
As Lugiv—says sometimes you can’t get the rotors off because a bunch of crap has worked it’s way between the hub and rotor boss. In that case liberal PB blaster and a BFH is the only way to go.
#4
There wasn't a ridge on the rotor-I was able to get the caliper off by chipping away some of the pad material and pounding it off with a rubber hammer. The piston retracted perfectly fine with the retracting tool.
Now that I've replaced all my brakes and I have the wheels back on, I tried starting it up and putting it in gear to test the brakes. The rear driver side brake works-the rest don't. Whenever I put it in drive and start to gently accelerate, the ESP kicks in and it chugs really badly. When I throw it back into park, I hear a loud clicking noise and the car lurches--mind you, this is all while it is jacked up.
Anyone?
Now that I've replaced all my brakes and I have the wheels back on, I tried starting it up and putting it in gear to test the brakes. The rear driver side brake works-the rest don't. Whenever I put it in drive and start to gently accelerate, the ESP kicks in and it chugs really badly. When I throw it back into park, I hear a loud clicking noise and the car lurches--mind you, this is all while it is jacked up.
Anyone?
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