Transmission Fluid change on High mileage?
#11
02-18-2009, 08:05 PM
It sounds like when it comes to the transmission, the great engineered Audis suppose to run better with gunked up ATF. That defies any logic and any other instance arguments about how good these cars are...
But hey, let's trust the German engineers (or whomever makes the new ZF trannies for N. America) and shift on gunky sludge. Closed system non-serviceable, right?
But hey, let's trust the German engineers (or whomever makes the new ZF trannies for N. America) and shift on gunky sludge. Closed system non-serviceable, right?
#12
02-18-2009, 10:32 PM
Is changing your transmission fluid at high miles really that big of a risk? What can be the consequences?
#13
02-18-2009, 10:34 PM
I just changed the ATF and filter on a 1996 A6 Quattro wagon I just bought. However, the fluid level must be as per the Bentley instructions. So, you need VAG-COM to get the transmission temperature for the correct ATF level. The car must be level on jack stands with all wheels off the ground. You can get an ATF refill kit with a hand pump from www.blauparts.com .
The old ATF in the torque converter can not be drained, without removing it from the car. Hence, for a neglected transmission one ATF change may not be enough.
If a transmission is completely neglected, but was never abused it might only need new ATF. An abused transmission would need to be rebuilt, if the ATF change is not enough.
The old ATF in the torque converter can not be drained, without removing it from the car. Hence, for a neglected transmission one ATF change may not be enough.
If a transmission is completely neglected, but was never abused it might only need new ATF. An abused transmission would need to be rebuilt, if the ATF change is not enough.
#14
02-18-2009, 10:40 PM
Yeah, dont try changing the fluid on this car youself, you will have to spend more money on tools than the dealer would charge to do it. The fluid must be at the right temp when put in to make sure you have the correct amount.
99A6Quattro, changing your fluid on a high mileage car often causes the transmission to start slipping. Thats why servicing your trans on regular intervals is important.
99A6Quattro, changing your fluid on a high mileage car often causes the transmission to start slipping. Thats why servicing your trans on regular intervals is important.
#15
02-19-2009, 02:25 AM
There have been an increasing number of instances surfacing recently regarding transmission failures shortly after an evacuation service, without filter removal. At the time of a fluid evacuation service, there is no way to know the condition of the filter and how clogged it may be. The filters job is to collect and hold contaminants, (dirt, metal filings, friction particles, etc.), and prevent these particles from causing malfunction in such components as electronic force motors and solenoids. Today's transmissions are far more susceptible to malfunctions caused by fine dirt contamination. Without servicing the filter, there is no way to know if the filter is clean of debris or nearing capacity. If the filter is nearing capacity, transmission failure may not be far off. This is also a sign that there may be other internal problems in the transmission. Recognizing these warning signs could eliminate major service later.
Most of the transmission failures after an evacuation service have occurred primarily on relatively high mileage transmissions that have not been serviced in some time. One reason for this is that the sludge and dirt buildup within the transmission will not completely be removed during the service. When the new fluid (which has detergent properties) is placed in the transmission, over days and weeks, the internal components begin to wash the insides of the transmission.
This sludge does finally work loose and settles in the transmission filter, clogging it up even further than it may have been before service. In these extreme cases, where service has not been performed in some time, changing the filter may not completely fix the problem. Some mechanics recommend a second service a few weeks after the first, replacing the filter again, which may be partially clogged due to the cleaning process in the transmission.
Even if the fluid evacuation method is desired to remove the used transmission fluid, the pan should be removed also, and an inspection should be made of the pan contents, fluid, and filter to determine the condition of the transmission. Aluminum filings in the pan or iron filings on the pan magnet are signs of internal wear and may give light to potential problems in the transmission. Transmission service is performed for preventative maintenance. Evaluating the overall condition of the transmission by removing the pan should be part of this preventative maintenance also.
Most of the transmission failures after an evacuation service have occurred primarily on relatively high mileage transmissions that have not been serviced in some time. One reason for this is that the sludge and dirt buildup within the transmission will not completely be removed during the service. When the new fluid (which has detergent properties) is placed in the transmission, over days and weeks, the internal components begin to wash the insides of the transmission.
This sludge does finally work loose and settles in the transmission filter, clogging it up even further than it may have been before service. In these extreme cases, where service has not been performed in some time, changing the filter may not completely fix the problem. Some mechanics recommend a second service a few weeks after the first, replacing the filter again, which may be partially clogged due to the cleaning process in the transmission.
Even if the fluid evacuation method is desired to remove the used transmission fluid, the pan should be removed also, and an inspection should be made of the pan contents, fluid, and filter to determine the condition of the transmission. Aluminum filings in the pan or iron filings on the pan magnet are signs of internal wear and may give light to potential problems in the transmission. Transmission service is performed for preventative maintenance. Evaluating the overall condition of the transmission by removing the pan should be part of this preventative maintenance also.
I mean if we pretend to be informed, let's get informed.
#16
02-19-2009, 02:28 AM
Lots of stuff I would argue about.
"Should I change the fluid on my own? "
Read the routine to do so. You might see if you can get it done at AAMCO or anywhere but an Audi/VW dealer. I hear that is about 300. Take your own fluid, if you have to. It sounds like a pain in the *** and near as expensive as getting it done AT an independent. NOT at Audi/VW. Minimum I have heard is 300.
Jason,
Read the regimen. ANYONE could drop the pan on a Chevy, dump the fluid, put in a new filter, button up, and refill and drive another 50 thou. You DO got a dipstick, don't you. Low, dump a bit more in. Ain't the case, here. Sealed unit.
I have a problem with my A6 Quattro. Had the engine replaced. Mechs said "not much tranny fluid came out when we disconnected. How much is what you would call LOW?
What if you just put a pint IN? Does overfill screw you? If it still doesn't shift right, another pint? It's hard to believe that a little too much or too little, is going to blow your tranny. Too MUCH too little, yes, I can see that.
The regimen TO top up your fluid is all but ridiculous. It is posted elsewhere. We ain't alone. What the hell Mercedes has to do with Audi/VW, I don't know, but they are just as secretive as to maintaining your own machine.
I THINK I need some fluid, I am not sure that my mechs can do as the directions say. It is about a half hour regimen. And the routine says you got to start with a cold engine, though you have to hot up the engine to finish. That alone is silly. If it has to be THIS hot, to be correct, you should drive it to the shop, it is warm, FILL 'ER UP!
I have worked on hydraulics all my life. Full tank meant a happy machine. OVERFULL reservoir did not make the machine run crazy, but they weren't Audi trannys, either.
This is about as ridiculous a thread as I can imagine. Hell of it is, it seems like it IS the Audi technique.
I got to get my guys to put a pint in and see if it is the tranny or the misfire on Cyl 1 that is my problem.. I have new coils to replace them thet might be misfiring. One, so far.
Whether the damned thing is running right or not, it IS the nicest car of ALL my Audis, and I go back to 1979 with these machines. My daughter drove a 1985 Audi Turbo all through school, and loved it. Borrowed my 90 a couple weeks ago when her car was in the garage, told her husband that she loved that 18 year old car, she felt safer in that 90 than she did in their Daewoo OR their Honda Ridgeline.
These ARE damned well put together cars. Expensive, but damned good.
Ah, well.
Cheers,
George
"Should I change the fluid on my own? "
Read the routine to do so. You might see if you can get it done at AAMCO or anywhere but an Audi/VW dealer. I hear that is about 300. Take your own fluid, if you have to. It sounds like a pain in the *** and near as expensive as getting it done AT an independent. NOT at Audi/VW. Minimum I have heard is 300.
Jason,
Read the regimen. ANYONE could drop the pan on a Chevy, dump the fluid, put in a new filter, button up, and refill and drive another 50 thou. You DO got a dipstick, don't you. Low, dump a bit more in. Ain't the case, here. Sealed unit.
I have a problem with my A6 Quattro. Had the engine replaced. Mechs said "not much tranny fluid came out when we disconnected. How much is what you would call LOW?
What if you just put a pint IN? Does overfill screw you? If it still doesn't shift right, another pint? It's hard to believe that a little too much or too little, is going to blow your tranny. Too MUCH too little, yes, I can see that.
The regimen TO top up your fluid is all but ridiculous. It is posted elsewhere. We ain't alone. What the hell Mercedes has to do with Audi/VW, I don't know, but they are just as secretive as to maintaining your own machine.
I THINK I need some fluid, I am not sure that my mechs can do as the directions say. It is about a half hour regimen. And the routine says you got to start with a cold engine, though you have to hot up the engine to finish. That alone is silly. If it has to be THIS hot, to be correct, you should drive it to the shop, it is warm, FILL 'ER UP!
I have worked on hydraulics all my life. Full tank meant a happy machine. OVERFULL reservoir did not make the machine run crazy, but they weren't Audi trannys, either.
This is about as ridiculous a thread as I can imagine. Hell of it is, it seems like it IS the Audi technique.
I got to get my guys to put a pint in and see if it is the tranny or the misfire on Cyl 1 that is my problem.. I have new coils to replace them thet might be misfiring. One, so far.
Whether the damned thing is running right or not, it IS the nicest car of ALL my Audis, and I go back to 1979 with these machines. My daughter drove a 1985 Audi Turbo all through school, and loved it. Borrowed my 90 a couple weeks ago when her car was in the garage, told her husband that she loved that 18 year old car, she felt safer in that 90 than she did in their Daewoo OR their Honda Ridgeline.
These ARE damned well put together cars. Expensive, but damned good.
Ah, well.
Cheers,
George
#17
02-19-2009, 01:36 PM
I appreciate ever members advice. I have decided to change the fluid,filter,gasket. After it is all done I will report to you guys how everything turned out. I hope I have good news so anyone else in doubt of changing the fluid will try it. Do plenty of research and ask each mechanic you get a quote from how they perform this task. Don't flush a transmission. My mom flushed a 2005 chrysler 300 with 50,000 and the transmission gave out. The extended warranty had to replace her transmission.
#18
02-20-2009, 12:36 AM
On my 1996 Audi A6 the ATF service interval is 45,000 miles, not lifetime. However, it only takes about 3 Liters of ATF and a new filter.
Perhaps, some of the repair shops don't properly check the Audi ATF level, as it is very time consuming and they may not have VAG-COM.
Flushing requires expensive equipment. Dropping the pan and changing the filter and ATF would require less equipment.
Perhaps the flushing equipment could become contaminated and be causing failures.
The filter on the flushing equipment could be full of sludge and be failing or the ATF from different cars may not be compatable with the Audi ATF.
Perhaps, some of the repair shops don't properly check the Audi ATF level, as it is very time consuming and they may not have VAG-COM.
Flushing requires expensive equipment. Dropping the pan and changing the filter and ATF would require less equipment.
Perhaps the flushing equipment could become contaminated and be causing failures.
The filter on the flushing equipment could be full of sludge and be failing or the ATF from different cars may not be compatable with the Audi ATF.
#19
02-20-2009, 10:10 AM
It seems like it would be best to just drop the pan, empty the fluid out, put new fluid in, and change the filter, right?
#20
02-20-2009, 10:47 AM
And repeat a few weeks later. Some sludge may have worked itself loose and potentially clogging the new filter soon. But the other reason is that you cannot drain the ATF in the TC so you have a few quarts of old and contaminated left in your tranny. Draining and refilling is the best way to get almost all the old ATF replaced.