I elected to put the bumper cover back on before completing all the wiring, but you need to route the trailer connector first. Remove the plug pictured, and make a slit in it. Cut a bit of extra out in the middle to fit the wires. Slide the trailer connector into the hole, the pull it the needed distance to the hitch. Slip the wires into the slit, then reinstall the plug with the slit facing down to minimize water intrusion.
Installation of the bumper cover is basically backwards of removal. However, it is important to get everything carefully lined up as you proceed. The for main studs must be fit into the holes before you proceed too far. Once you get all four in, get the nuts one and just finger tight.
Now work your way over the top of the bumper cover to snap in the tops against the body.
These just snap into place.
Now fit the lower portions of the bumper cover into the inner fender mounts:
Pop everything into place and tighten the four main nuts. Don't forget to refasten the fuse box in place. Then install the T-25 Torx screws, and the inner fender well clips. I will add photos later.
With the bumper cover in place, complete the wiring. as follows:
Gray wire with black tracer is for left signal. Solid gray wire is for right signal. solid yellow is for tail lights.
Gray with black tracer wire is on top orange plug.
Yellow wire is on middle black and pink plug.
Solid gray wire is on bottom black plug.
The (usually red) wire for the brakes coming from the 3-to-2 converter module is not used. Wire the power wire to the battery with a fuse, and screw ground to car as pictured.
You can see that I mounted the module on an unused stud, and grounded to the fuse box mount. This worked perfectly.
TIP: Make sure you close the back hatch before testing or you will chase your tail trying to figure out why it will not work.
Reinstall the air compressor mount and insulation plus side cover. Then reinstall the side cover on the other side. Install the compartment rails for the tie downs, and put the interior back in fully.