Driving from Knoxville, TN back to Huntsville, AL and my TT decided it was definitely and almost instantly time to replace clutch and related components. I was hoping to get opinions from anyone that has put in a Steel Single Mass Flywheel. Also, does anyone have part numbers for axles? I'm thinking that I may as well refresh the drivetrain while I've got things taken apart. Thanks in advance!

Thinking Spec Stage 2+ (anticipating for future upgrades) and Spec Steel Single Mass Flywheel.

 

i saw a southbend clutch including a light fly on sale somewhere. idk if it was stage 2 but it looked like killer deal, i would get a diesel geek shifter linkage too

 

Thanks for the info on Dieselgeek Shifter, it looks gorgeous. I want that Panzer skid plate too. May have to do some time in Afghanistan to save up for all of the parts I WANT to put on the car while it's down.

 

Also, came across something on USPmotorsports.com. They have a steel shift fork conversion for 02M transmissions but it didn't include MK1 TTs. Is that maybe a typo or did they two different 02M transmissions between the MK1 and MK2?

 

About to go outside and start taking everything apart finally. I haven't been able to find anything definite on the transmission forks being different in an O2M between MK1 and MK2 but I have a fellow helicopter pilot in my unit that is also a machinist and said he would be able to make my shift forks into steel shift forks. Would anybody else be interested if he's able to replicate it? We're still talking in the development and testing phase at this moment.

 

I am if they're not ridiculous prices like the armrest

 

Awesome. I'm sure we can work out something very realistic after I've tested them a little bit. This is exactly what they'll look like. Steel Shift Fork Transmission Upgrade / 6 Speed (02M / 02Q) - USP1190

 

Hi, I have the spec stage 2+ clutch on an aluminum single-mass flywheel. It will spin all 4 tires immediately off the line which is cool, but nothing is sprung. The dual-mass flywheel was sprung and if I'm not mistaken so was the clutch I took out. Now it's solid clutch and solid flywheel and it's pretty rough honestly. Every car (except 1) I've had has been purposely a manual because I like them, and I can shift smoother than an automatic I'd bet. However, this setup took me forever to get used to. Very touchy to say the least. Because of this touchyness you have to rev it up a bit more than normal and let the clutch out a bit faster than normal and I feel like I'm making an *** of myself sometimes. I've gotten pretty good at it, but on a steep hill I'll still stall it. It's either stall or spin, there isn't much wiggle room on a hill. Just my experience. Also, the 2+ is rated to like 460 ft/lbs isn't it? I'd bet a stage 2 would be fine unless you're going overboared and gt3076r or something. Even then I'd bet 460 ft lbs is going to be hard to get without aeb head and big intake, water/meth... all that stuff. Basically I'm recommending the stage 2. The stage 2+ is stage 3 on one side and stage 2 on the other, and I'm saying just stage 2 should work unless you are going full tilt crazy with this.

 

Thanks for your input. I have been considering doing the GT30 Eliminator Kit (I think that's said correctly) which is essentially a GT3076R but I'm still kicking around some options. Most of those kits are so expensive and I'm not sure that I really want to sink that much money in to the vehicle. Definitely will be going with a SouthBend Stage 2 Clutch as I've found one for an incredible price and I think I remember it holding somewhere around 390hp.

 

Yeah, I don't know a lot about the south bend clutch. I know there are a TON of people that run them so they must be pretty good! And it's a good call on the gt3076... I plan on running one too. I have one, kind of. It's a 3076r with a ball bearing on the compressor side, journal bearing on the turbine. But I researched the heck out of turbos and what sold me on the gt3076r was 2 a4 1.8ts racing on youtube. One guy had a t3/t4 50 trim and the other a 3076R. You would expect the smaller 50 trim to jump out front and then get passed, but that didn't happen. They ran right next to each other and then the 3076 pulled away eventually as expected. But I can say that I messed up 2 turbos before I got oone to work. Unfortunately the first one was my 3076. Then I bought a $220 godspeed 50 trim off ebay... toasted that one too. Then I bought another one and it's fine! Kept thinking it was an oil problem, and it was kind of. There was too much pcv pressure to let the drainback line work right. I had an inline pcv valve running to a catch can that was vented to atmosphere. Well above the inline valve and before the catch can there was water in the line and not letting the pressure past like it should and I didn't think twice about it because it was vented to atmosphere! How much crankcase pressure could there be being vented to atmosphere! But yeah... taht was it. Where I'm going with this though is that something dumb like that ruined my $1000 turbo and it can't really be rebuilt. The fact that dumb **** will happen and there's nothing you can do about it makes me recommend journal bearing turbos. Sure, you'll lose about 500 rpm spool difference but when you wear out the turbo or mess it up prematurely... it's not a big deal. Rebuild kits are cheap. I know all the guys around here will preach that journal bearings are old technology and nobody likes lag and all that but when a ball bearing turbo goes bad, the mood isn't nearly as happy. You have to send the whole middle section to garret and they'll discount a new one. But I'm pretty sure it's still like $500. So to me, journal bearing is the way to go. Just preference. And I'm not saying that just because I'm dumb and messed mine up... I'm saying that you could not get me to spend 3x the money on something 10x as touchy. If I would have known they were not rebuildable I would never have bought one. I was just going with what everyone on the forums said to get. GT-r is better obviously... but I'd still consider something with similar flow but journal bearing. That is unless between now and when you buy your turbo garret starts selling the stuff to rebuild them. They are rebuildable... but garret won't let you. Kind of crappy of them IMO. Oh... along those lines... I have seen some stuff on cartridge ball bearing turbos. They are supposed to be rebuildable. I don't know enough about them, but it seems like that would be the best of both worlds.