Hi,

I recently (12/31/11) purchased a 2001 Audi Quattro TT (225 / AMU) from a friend who was the original owner. The car has 108,xxx miles. The timing belt went at 60,xxx miles and a rebuilt head was installed ($6k job).

I purchased the car out of state and we drove the car back to my house (about 500 miles). When I was driving the car back down, I heard a loud noise which worsened when the heater/ac fan was turned on. I suspected it was a belt issue. I took a left turn, and the noise completely disappeared. I got out and looked at the various belts, fans, etc. and couldnt detect anything without removing the plastic cover. I completed the drive back home with no problems. However, upon getting within 2 miles of my house,the CEL came on.

Car was due for service so I took it in and had the oil changed and aksed them to read the CEL. When they read it, I got the P1136 code. Also, they told me that when the removed the plastic underhousing, the A/C clutch was sitting on the top of the plastic housing. I have attached a picture of the A/C clutch to this thread. I talked with a friend who said that the two issues were completely unrelated.

My questions are as follows:

1) Which steps should I take to resolve the P1136? I purchased a can of CRC MAF cleaner to see if I have a dirty MAF. If that is not the issue, I was going to replace the MAF sensor and see if that fixes the issue. Is this the appropriate course of action? Any other recommendations?

2) How should I resolve the A/C clutch issue? I'm unsure if I need an entire new A/C compressor and clutch, or if I should simply replace the clutch. I've hunted around on the web and can't seem to find the part number for the clutch. At present this is my daily and I want to get this fixed ASAP but am unsure of how to approach the issue, and what I should reasonably expect a shop to charge for this. My friend (hobbyiest mechanic) also told me I should replace the accessory belt as well.

3) The passenger window (up/down) automatic sensor appears to be broken. I found a list of common problems and read somewhere that the battery can be disconnected for 30 seconds and this be a possible fix? I recall a few other suggestions on that website, but I can no longer find the website I was at (was a black background with red/white text, and the website owner had compiled a list of common TT problems and resolutions.

I'd appreciate any advice you guys may have to get this thing up and driving without problems. Thanks.

Matt

 

ROSS TECH/ VAG:

17544/P1136/004406 - Ross-Tech Wiki

Its funny cause i have the exact same issue, right when i bought the 225 tt, right at 108k, does your idle act funky? shifts between 700 & 900?

 

I think what we both have in store is a boost leak, im currently working out this situation right now, but i will advise, i drove my car for more than year with this code and it hasnt had any driving complications. So driving it should be fine.

Im going to boost test it like this guy did: Audi TT boost leak testing - YouTube


I see worn tubing all under my intake so im in hopes of this being the issue.

 

Interesting, thanks for the response. I'd be very curious to see what happens. Have you tried buying cleaner (manufactured by CRC) to clean the MAF?

Going to pick it up today.

Also, thanks for the video - will check it out.
Matt

 

no on the MAF cleaner yet, i heard this helps, i put a a more exposed intake filter on my car just so i can hear that fake blow off valve noise and it could be screwin my sensor up with its filter oil.

I would disconnect your battery for a good 20-30 mins to clear the computer out (MAKE SURE YOU HAVE YOUR RADIO CODE) your CEL might be gone, but probably will come back temporarily, but anyways then you can reset your window by holding the switches up when there rolled up, then one tap them down to see if it worked.

as for your A/C thats pretty nasty, definitly replace your accesory belt, and its on you if you want to replace the whole a/c. I will add with that milleage i would brush the teeth on all your pulleys when you do the replace, this will get rid of any deposits that will start any really annoying pulley squeeks

as for that P1136, i want to correct myself, A VACUUM leak. Ill try the video method tomorrow hopefully and ill let you know if that has worked, good luck

 

I listened to my idle and the idle appears stable, w/o the 7-900 rpm issue you noted. I'll try resetting the battery, and good call on the radio code. As for the CEL, I can Borrow my friend's to clear, and i'll do that after I clean the MAF sensor.

Let me know how you make out; curious to know.

I got a quote from a shop, $1,436!!! They said compressor has most likely seized ($550 part), and will need new belt, A/C recharge (1 hour labor), and a couple other parts.

 

Yes get used to those quotes. We dont have the best cars to own when there out of warranty. I would buy the parts yourself then pay for the labor to go a cheaper route.

I did the vacuum leak test and there certainly was air coming out of a tube under my manifold, im getting a smoke machine to isolate which tube it is, they certainly cram alot of tubing in these damn 1.8Ts.

 

All youse guys have probably solved your 17544 problems by now, however after a lengthy study of the problem with this code I discovered a couple things. 99% of the time this code is caused by a leak. I do see where one or two guys solved their problems with either a new or cleaned MAF, FPR, injector, etc, but it is most likely a leak that you can not find by pressurizing the intake system or listening for a leak. Pressurizing the intake and pinching off the breather line does not check the large plastic breather elbow that plugs into the lower part of the block (10 inches below the intake manifold adjacent to the oil filter manifold) behind all the other hoses and is nearly completely hidden from view. This $25 elbow cracks with age and heat and allows unmetered air into the intake and is part of the air breather emmisions and can also, but not always, throw a 'secondary air incorrect flow' cel. It does not usually cause a bad idle and if you can reach it with some starting fluid spray or carb cleaner spray while idling it will cause a hint of an idle change, but only a hint so you have to be very diligent when doing that. It is very hard to detect but is the source of most of the 17544 code problems when that code is the only persisten code with no other codes (exception to secondary air flow noted on occasion).

 

Found this crack in one of the 'hard' vacuum lines under the intake manifold on my 2001 TT AMU engine with an 1136 trouble code. Put some electrical tape around it for now until I can get all the parts to replace the whole mess.