I have a 2001 A4 2.8l with only 72k on it. Long story short, the car was tunning fine when all the sudden, I started it up and it had a rough idle. More noticeable while in Drive at a stop, but it seems to run smooth once I get past 1200 RPM's.

Then the Check Engine Light comes on and I take it to Pep Boys where the following codes came up in this order:

P0340, P0012, P0300, P0301, P0303, P0302.

Thinking since all was well before 6 codes came up, it has to be one thing at the root of the problem. I replaced the Cam Positioning Sensor (P0340) but it changed nothing. I bought a new set of spark plugs for good measure but have not put them in as of yet. I can't imagine one stray plug throwing 6 codes?

But then again, that's why I'm here asking all of you if anyone has any reasons as to what could be behind all of this.

 

well the four "p03xx" are all misfires of course, so it should either be the p0340 or p0012.

the p0340 says camshaft position sensor and your replaced one, but don't our 2.8s have 2? one for each bank?

p0012 says intake cam adjuster:
16396/P0012/000018 - Ross-Tech Wiki

and mentions the oil a lot. recent oil change? or has it been years since your last one?

 

I'm going to change the oil and filter tomorrow so I'll report back on that. I replaced the sensor that was on the left hand side of the motor where the misfires were being reported.

 

Seems like the passenger side cam chain tensioner needs to be replaced

 

I think that might be the case as well. I ordered one along with the VC kit and special compression tool. The oil change didn't help...even ran some Seafoam for @50 miles prior hoping it would help but no dice.

So anyway, I'll have to wait for the parts to arrive in a few days and see how it goes. As far as my experience goes, I was able to replace my Alternator and Water Pump on separate occasions via YT videos with no issues.

I don't think my cam has jumped a tooth based on how it runs past 1500 RPM's. So my strategy so far is to do the following:

1) Once the VC is off, I will turn the Engine to TDC.

2) I will then check the keyholes on the camshafts and see how they line up with the arrows.

3) Assuming they do line up, I will apply silver marker to the chain and gear.

4) Verify that there are 16 rails between the 2 points.

5) Lock Crank and Cam with special tools.

6) Use CCT tool to compress the tensioner.

7) Remove the Intake Cambolts from the outside inwards.

8) Remove the intake Camshaft completely. (Is this Necessary??)

9) Remove the Tensioner and gaskets.

10) Clean all surfaces.

11) RTV Half Moon and bottom of tensioner gasket where it overlaps Half Moon.

12) Install new Tensioner while compressed with CCT tool.

13) Re-Install Camshaft while lining up painted marks on chain and gear.

14) Hand tighten down the cam caps in a criss cross pattern from the middle to the outside edge before torquing to 7ft/lbs.

15) Uncompress the Tensioner.

16) Count the links again and check the painted marks/keymarks on the cam.

17) Unlock the camshaft timing gears and crankshaft.

18) Rotate Crankshaft 720 degrees and recheck the painted marks/16 spaces and keyholes so that they all still line up.

19) Install the VC gasket with RTV in the corners.

20) Install VC and the rest of the various components.

Sound right...? This is based on what I have read from various sources but I don't have it written anywhere...kinda going based off of what's in my head.

Questions I have...

1) Do I have to remove the Intake Cam?

2) Should I torque down the cam prior to releasing the tension on the tensioner?

3) Are there any good tutorials (video or not) that specifically deal with changing the tensioner on the right (passenger cyl 1,2,3) side?

4) ...and of course, is there anything I forgot/need to pay extra attention to?

5) Based on the symptoms of the car, is there anything else I need to check prior to replacing the tensioner? Those symptoms being:

- Starts fine, idles @1200 with barely noticeable misfires.
- Once it warms up, it idles @ 650/700 and the misfires are very noticeable.
- Upon acceleration, they go away until I return to idle.
- CEL Codes P0340, P0012, P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303

I've already replaced the passenger side Cam Sensor, all spark plugs and changed the oil.

Thank you all for the help! I'll be sure to keep a detailed record so that if it works out, I will be able to help someone else down the road.

 

Not sure if the intake cam has to be taken out. I've never done this on a 2.8 before. I can imagine it does have to be removed while leaving in the exhaust cam. Check a DIY to make sure.

Yes, torque cam caps before releasing the tensioner.

I'm pretty sure it is the tensioner. It is the only thing I can think of that will have those codes and all the misfires on one bank. Well, that is besides timing slipping. The only way that could happen is if that cam gear slipped a bit.

Double check all timing BEFORE taking anything apart. This includes crank at TDC and all cams at TDC.

 

It ended up being the tensioner. Actually more the bottom guide breaking off and the chain cutting into the bottom of the tensioner itself. The intake cam was off a bit as a result but thankfully nothing major occured as a result.

Put everything back together yesterday and it runs fine. Getting the tensioner out was a major pain as it would not fully compress. Putting ut back it only took 10 min...maybe I got lucky!

If anyone has q's about this process, let me know an I'd be glad to help!

 

glad you got it figured out

 

...so I thought. It definitely runs smoother but starts to show similar symptoms once the thermostat opens up increasing ever so slightly until it reaches normal operating temperature.

At that point, it still runs smoother than before, but there is still this annoying "vibration". The RPM's are solid at 750 at idle, but it kinda feels like it's misfiring still.

Guess my question would be this: If I somehow didn't put the intake cam back properly, wouldn't the CIL light still be on? As of now, it turned off by itself after @50 might of the initial repair.

I checked the link spacing, had the cam/crank lock tools in the whole time, and made sure the machined notches on the cams were lined up to the arrows after manually rotating the motor 5 times. Everything lined up perfectly.

Any ideas?