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  #191  
Old 01-12-2013, 07:26 PM
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I found a Europa '96 at my local PnP. Snagged the trunk off of it.
 
  #192  
Old 01-12-2013, 11:40 PM
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Today's haul from the pick n pull...

The wiper stalk, pigtails, and plug - $13

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DBC throttle body, will be polished or powder coated - $40

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After a quick scrub..

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Got the flip key cut, range still sucks donkey *****.

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  #193  
Old 01-13-2013, 01:18 AM
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Alright, pressing forward with the cluster swap.

I went ahead and labeled the **** out of the plugs, for my own sanity.

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It seems pretty straight forward. On the small white plug, there are 13 wires. 3 of the wires going from the wiper arm will connect with the small white plug, the 4th wire is ground.

I have an aftermarket radio so I do not believe I need the radio/telephone clock and data, or the enable wire. Can those simply be removed from the plug or will I get some sort of error on the cluster?

I then need to find the signals for the fuel consumption, coolant level sensor, and outside air temperature.

Fuel consumption signal: Located in the ECU harness?
Coolant level sensor: ?
Outside air temp: One of the wires going to the small black connector in my current cluster.

That leaves the selector level display, rear lights/headlight low beams, and brake lights pins. No idea on those either.
 
  #194  
Old 01-13-2013, 01:59 AM
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I apologize for spamming my own thread...each time I think I'm done for the night I find something else to do.

I popped my cluster out to look at the 3rd connector, its a black 10 pin connection.

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The back of my current cluster

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I hooked up the new cluster and it looks great! LCD screen doesn't appear to have any lines, gauges work, has 94,212 miles on it currently.
It is missing the bulbs for the ABS, airbag, and whatever the 3rd warning light is. :P

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  #195  
Old 01-13-2013, 03:43 AM
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is the lcd the only difference from the old one..?
 
  #196  
Old 01-13-2013, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by basedrifter
It is missing the bulbs for the abs, airbag, and whatever the 3rd warning light is.
I don't see a CEL
 
  #197  
Old 01-13-2013, 12:29 PM
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Tiwst the light wires together and washer fluid and ground them, it will kill them all
 
  #198  
Old 01-13-2013, 06:10 PM
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Hey Lukas,
I just came upon your thread! What an interesting read!!! Just fantastic what you have been doing.

Sorry to hear about your flip key mod. Mine was uneventful. I even took the PCB out of a MZ241081964 and put it into a smart key for an ultra new look ... but would not recommend this since it was tedious and I could only get lock/unlock to function with the buttons reversed. The flip is much more better. Was your problem with the central locking pump in your car or the 3 button remote? And I agree, the range is very limited ... 10-20 feet!

The mystery 3rd 10-pin connector that goes into the bottom of your original cluster:
(I added this info to the audiworld link posted previously).
My notes show:
1. The connector is 10 pins, but the socket on the cluster is 8 pins.
2. The part 8D0 919 272B on the cluster is a separate plugin unit that displays the gear (just automatic?) selection and the outside temp. My outside temp never worked and I found out I was missing 3 wires from the harness that goes to this connector. The dealer said I needed a new temp computer. ...!
3. . Pin out of the connector:
Pin Colour Description
1 Blk/Red. +ve
2 ???
3 Brn/Yel Outside air temp
4. Gry/Blu Back light
5 ???
6. Brn ground
7 Wht/Blu Speed signal 2
8 Blk/Brn Transmission selector
9 Brn ground
10 ???

Cruise control: I took apart my stalk based on a dyi I found and cleaned and checked the continuity. Put everything back together and it still did not work. Took out the ecu and checked the solder joints. Found a hairline crack on a diode and also resoldered the recommended other components; a couple of capacitors. Put it back in and it has worked for the past 1.5 years. Another thing the dealer could not figure out and I paid lots for them to diagnose it! I think I still have my notes somewhere, so PM me if you want some info if you cannot find it by searching the Internet.

Painted side mirror covers: I think you mentioned in one of your original posts in 2010, that you painted your covers black. They look good. I used 3M 1080-CF12 to wrap my covers; I like the carbon fibre texture look they now have.

Loose door handle: My drivers side was floppy for some time. Read a dyi post on fixing this and went to the local surplus store and bought a suitable spring (50 cents) and bent it to the reqd shape, then installed it. Works fine now. I did this last month. Seems to be a normal problem on our cars.

Mark
 

Last edited by 97a4q; 01-13-2013 at 08:04 PM. Reason: typo, and added door handle info
  #199  
Old 01-13-2013, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by B5 Audi
is the lcd the only difference from the old one..?
Pretty much. I never planned on doing this mod, it just kind of fell into my lap and I'm running with it.

It looks better, adds MPG functionality + trip comp, it has 50,000 less miles of "wear", and of course following rule 32 more screens is always better.

Originally Posted by CCA4
I don't see a CEL
Yeah the CEL bulb is missing as well (located on the tach side though.)

Originally Posted by jonbonesjones
Tiwst the light wires together and washer fluid and ground them, it will kill them all
That sounds deceptively simple haha, is that all there is to it? They need a ground?

Originally Posted by 97a4q
Hey Lukas,
I just came upon your thread! What an interesting read!!! Just fantastic what you have been doing.
Thanks a lot!

Sorry to hear about your flip key mod. Mine was uneventful. I even took the PCB out of a MZ241081964 and put it into a smart key for an ultra new look ... but would not recommend this since it was tedious and I could only get lock/unlock to function with the buttons reversed. The flip is much more better. Was your problem with the central locking pump in your car or the 3 button remote? And I agree, the range is very limited ... 10-20 feet!
Yeah, I replaced the original 8L0 862 257 B CLP with an "N" model. That allows the buttons to work as they should (theoretically.) The problem I have now is that the signal is intermittent. It will work consistently for 5 minutes, and then you may have to press unlock 5-10 times to get it to unlock or lock.

I was monitoring it with VAGCOM and the car does not register every button push.

10-20 ft?? I am glad if I can get it to function at 2 ft right now. I'm considering trying to reroute the antenna. I located the antenna in a junk yard car but only after breaking the C pillar, despite my most gentle efforts to release the clips. Not encouraging.

The mystery 3rd 10-pin connector that goes into the bottom of your original cluster:
(I added this info to the audiworld link posted previously).
My notes show:
1. The connector is 10 pins, but the socket on the cluster is 8 pins.
2. The part 8D0 919 272B on the cluster is a separate plugin unit that displays the gear (just automatic?) selection and the outside temp. My outside temp never worked and I found out I was missing 3 wires from the harness that goes to this connector. The dealer said I needed a new temp computer. ...!
So your car never displayed the outside temperature from the factory?

My outside temp works right now, I'm assuming that if I pull that pin and swap it to it's new home on the red connector that I should be good to go.

3. . Pin out of the connector:
Pin Colour Description
1 Blk/Red. +ve
2 ???
3 Brn/Yel Outside air temp
4. Gry/Blu Back light
5 ???
6. Brn ground
7 Wht/Blu Speed signal 2
8 Blk/Brn Transmission selector
9 Brn ground
10 ???
Thanks! I actually just found this pin out today, its a great help. So as I said above, my plan is to move pin 3 from the current black plug to pin 5 on the red connector. I will leave the rest of the connector untouched and leave it behind the dash in case I want to revert. I shouldn't need the power as the LCD is already illuminated, and I'm manual so I don't the the gear display.

The next thing I need is the coolant level signal. I see from your thread on audiworld that the blue connector pin 20 should have the coolant level signal. Is that true on my non LCD cluster as well?

If that is true, can I simply tap into this wire to send that signal to the red plug pin 9?

For the fuel consumption signal, I read that it was located at pin 8 on the ECM. Looking at the wiring diagram that appears to be the diagnostic signal. Is this the proper wire to tap into?

That leaves me with the following pins on the red connector:

Pins 16 and 19 (rear lights, headlight low beam & brake lights): Can these be grounded out as jonbones says? Wire in a resister?

Pins 12, 13, and 15 (radio/tel clock & data, and enable): Remove these pins since I have an aftermarket stereo?

Pin 6 (selector level display): Not positive what this is, but it sounds like the signal to display the gear position on an auto. Since I have a manual, can this pin be pulled?

Cruise control: I took apart my stalk based on a dyi I found and cleaned and checked the continuity. Put everything back together and it still did not work. Took out the ecu and checked the solder joints. Found a hairline crack on a diode and also resoldered the recommended other components; a couple of capacitors. Put it back in and it has worked for the past 1.5 years. Another thing the dealer could not figure out and I paid lots for them to diagnose it! I think I still have my notes somewhere, so PM me if you want some info if you cannot find it by searching the Internet.
I'll check out the cruise control arm when I install the new arm, thanks for the tips. I've been meaning to diagnose why mine doesn't work for awhile.

Painted side mirror covers: I think you mentioned in one of your original posts in 2010, that you painted your covers black. They look good. I used 3M 1080-CF12 to wrap my covers; I like the carbon fibre texture look they now have.

Loose door handle: My drivers side was floppy for some time. Read a dyi post on fixing this and went to the local surplus store and bought a suitable spring (50 cents) and bent it to the reqd shape, then installed it. Works fine now. I did this last month. Seems to be a normal problem on our cars.

Mark
Thanks a lot Mark, I actually plasti dipped them a few months ago and it seems to be holding up fine, unlike my wheels unfortunately. Got some pictures of your mirrors?

I actually just fixed the loose door handle a few posts back! I grabbed a handle from the pick n pull that felt better than mine. Turns out my spring was broken, hence the floppiness. If I get the problem again I'll check out making a new spring.

Thanks again for your help everyone!!
 
  #200  
Old 01-14-2013, 10:18 AM
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Temp Display: Yes, my temp display never worked from the factory! Wiring harness must have been made on a Monday ;-> The original owner never noticed it I guess.

New Cluster: I never have tried a cluster swap before, so I think you know as much as me on this subject. That audiworld thread is not mine. I read it 1.5 yrs ago to get info on my problem of no temp display. The OP just happens to live near me, thou I never met him, we exchanged several emails and he pointed me in the right direction to solve the problem. The wiring diagram I got from the Bentley Audi A4 Service Manual (96-01) at the local reference library.

Driver's side mirror (3M 1080-CF12 wrapped): 100_0673A.jpg

My FOB collection: 100_0667A.jpg
(not sure how you put pics in so I dont know how this will look!)
 
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