Got my new pre-cat O2 sensor today. Cost $66 shipped from Amazon.

Bosch 13740



Tomorrow I'll pick up the new gear ring for the VSS, once my speedometer is fixed I'll replace the O2 sensor. Then it's back to collecting brake parts.

 

Hi Lucas, Nice story.
I've begun a similar trek with one I've just bought from one of my customers. A4 2001 1.8 5 speed.

I see you installed the sport springs- Mine has H&R coil overs / shocks and I have been trying to get it smooth enough for my daily driving. Can you measure from the center of the wheel to the fender? I saw one parked and found 14.5" in the rear, where mine if I spin it way up is 13.25" in the rear and 13.75" front. I'm tempted to try and put my springs back in with the h&r struts only to try and smooth it out a bit.
Thanks, Steve
BTW Nice write up and nice car- good job.

 

Thanks Steve. I'm not sure if that would be the best idea, spring rates are dependent on a number of factors including the valving in the shock. I doubt anything would blow up catastrophically, but there may be ill effects. I'm no expert, ust a word of warning. My car is up on ramps now so I'll take those measurements in a little bit for you.

I picked up a new speed sensor ring and 3 quarts of Redline MT90 today to hopefully fix my broken speedometer. I'll also be installing the new O2 sensor.

 

I just am not 100% happy with the ride. I may put the sport back on with new struts.

I saw you had the S4 front sway bar- Do you still have it? It was stiffer right?

I would think slightly softer springs, good struts and a beefy sway bar would be the ticket for comfort and drive-ability. Daily driver for me.

 

I bought both front and rear S4 sway bars. I ended up putting the A4 front bar back on and sticking with the S4 rear. Our cars naturally understeer and a stiffer front bar exaggerates that. The firmer rear sway bar helps to get the back end around.

 

Interesting..

I have been trying to sort out the ride height and I found if I raised the back (7/16") it would oversteer (feel like the back wants to come around) if I brought that back down it was good again, then lowered the front had the same effect. Both making you have to make more corrections on turns. I dont think it has to do with body roll, but you may be on to something. Maybe it is the rear compared to the front that is the issue and a stiffer rear solves that.. I was trying to have the space from the wheel to the fender be the same F&R.

Ok I don't want to hijack your thread. thanks for the opinions.

Steve

 

Just pulled the driver's axle and found this, normal?

 

CV grease is typically grey/black. It may just be your picture, but the grease looks a little grainy. Maybe the grease in there got a little too hot.

While you've got it apart, I would clean out the joint as much as you can and then repack it with new CV grease.

 

Time is somewhat of the essence, and since I don't have any CV grease on hand I may just throw it back together.'

The part I ordered was 012-409-182-C, the part I pulled off the car is 012-409-182-A. The only difference I see is that the A version I pulled off has a locating tab that the C model doesn't have. ECS' website says the A model has been superseded by the C model so I will probably just go ahead and install it.

Then again I don't want to be pulling the output flange again...let's hope this works. I don't see anything wrong with the ring I'm pulling off.

 

You can pick up a tub of Moly CV grease at any parts store. If you choose not to grease it, I would plan to pick another time to disassemble, clean and grease both front inners.