i was troubleshooting a random/multiple misfire issue i was having before so i took out my MAF and sprayed it down with MAF cleaner and put it back in. well ever since then i have been getting this P0102 code for MAF input too low. i read up on it and everything says that its either the MAF sensor or a vacuum leak. well i replaced all my vacuum lines a few months ago so i didnt think that was the problem but i went ahend and checked for leaks with carb cleaner anyways...didnt find any leaks. so then i tried cleaning my maf again...same code came back. so i bought a new MAF and swapped it out and that actually made things worse. it idled all over the place and actually died after a minute or 2. so i started it back up, checked my codes and got a bunch of misfire codes. cleared them with vagcom and then the MAF code was the only one coming back. to disconnected the battery for 30 min's to see if i could clear it out of the history that way. well, i waited 30 mins then hooked everything back up and let the car idle for 5 min's w/o touching the gas at all. it again died after a minute cause it couldnt idle correctly. got all the misfire codes again, so i cleared them again and now i am only getting the MAF code again. i have checked all wires for loose connections and they are good. what could my problem be? if i put the old MAF back in, i continue to get the same P0102 code for input being too low...doesnt matter which MAF i use, same code. is there anything else i should be looking at?

 

If you have a vagcom you can check block 003 to see if you are getting any MAF readings at all. It could be that you broke one of the wires in the MAF harness when you took it out to clean it.

 

i'll check that out and see what readings i get but i'm pretty sure thats not the problem cause i checked out the wiring after i changed the MAF and it looked good.

 

I had the same issue for what seemed like ever. I went round and round, replacing maf's changing every single vacuum line, anything that looked nasty I had my hands on. Finally found out while changing my air filter that the massive rubber intake hose going into the airbox was not completely seated. The hose clamp was tight everything looked normal. The mating surface between hose and airbox looked correct from above but underneath I could see/feel that a portion of the hose was tucked into the airbox, which means the engine is receiving unmetered air, the maf didnt like this. Just a shot in the dark.

 

i'm assuming your talking about the rubber intake hose that goes from the airbox to the turbo inlet. i have taken that hose on and off like 20 times in the last 2 weeks. i just checked block 003 with vagcom and i'm getting a reading for the MAF. it says that its supposed to have a reading of 2-4.5 g/s and mine bounced around from 3.19-3.69 g/s the whole time so i am getting a good reading. but i am still getting this P0102 code, even with the new MAF. i drove it around today and at first it boosted great and felt good so i figured maybe the ECU just needed more time to get everything back tuned how it wanted it with the new MAF. but then it started misfiring really bad everytime i accelerated. every time i would hit the gas, the car would feel like it hit fuel cut and completely cut out all acceleration. so i just checked the codes again expecting to have a bunch of misfire codes like i did when i first changed the MAF but i didnt have any. the only code was still P0102 "MAF sensor input too low". so what the hell? at least before with the old MAF i was having all these acceleration issues like i am now. on the old MAF the engine wouldnt start breaking up til i hit around 17psi or so, now its breaking up when i hit 7 psi. i did notice today that the bottom of my SAP hose that goes from the airbox to the SAP wasnt hooked up securely to the SAP. but SAP's arent supposed to affect engine performance at all so i dont think thats my problem

 

The wire cover doesn't have to break for the hair thin wire inside to come apart. A wire breaking in the MAF harness is very common seeing that these cars are 9+ years old and the engine bay gets pretty hot.

 

hope this helps

 

well according to that link my MAF is doing just fine cause it only says things are wrong if the MAF reading is below 1 or above 4 and mine stayed in the 3's the entire time

 

is it possible that my coilpacks are going out and i just didnt throw any codes for it with my old MAF cause it wasnt as precise, but with the new MAF it made it more noticeable that the coilpacks are going out cause now they are the weak link? or am i completely off base in this thinking? i dont want to just throw money at it and buy new coilpacks if its not needed.

 

well i decided to leave the new MAF sensor in and just wait and see if it would fix itself or if it would keep throwing misfire codes. well its been 4 days now and the misfire codes havent come back yet and the original MAF sensor code has gone away as well. i guess the ECU just needed some time with the new MAF to figure things out and get on the same page cause its seemed to have fixed itself.