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  #1  
Old 05-20-2010, 09:01 PM
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Lightbulb What are the first mods I should make to my 1.8T ?

Hey guys,
New here, just bought a 1997 A4 1.8T. I want to begin modding but don't know where to start. This is my first Audi as well as first turbo vehicle (I've always been into American muscle cars until recently). I'm looking to do some engine mods for improved horsepower, some ascetic mods to make it look sexy, as well as some pure show mods like a BOV/DV. At the moment I have around $500 to spend (just started a new job and checks will be arriving soon bringing me more money to work with). Can I get a few pointers/tips on where to start? Like I said, a few performance ups, visual ups, and show ups.

Thanks everyone
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  #2  
Old 05-20-2010, 09:20 PM
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ok, first off.... start with the newbie guide

but i would make sure the maintenance is up to date, if that is then i would do tune/boost gauge and dv combo... next wheels and suspension, then work your way to the big power...


but like i said read the newbie guide, it will tell you where to start and all that fun stuff
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  #3  
Old 05-20-2010, 09:49 PM
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Maintenance is up to date. I bought the car from a friend of mine who is a mechanic. Turbo has been replaced, new clutch, new manifolds, new plugs, all fluids are new, new brake lines/pads/rotors... etc. And yes I've read the newbie stickies however things are not listed by any price and are just kinda spread out. I know what I SHOULD do, but where should I start. Just a list of maybe 4-6 things that I can do easily for a quick horsepower boost and nice looks for under $500.

Thanks
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Old 05-20-2010, 09:51 PM
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The best bang for your buck is to chip it and put a new DV in, and boost gauge if you have a little extra spending money.
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  #5  
Old 05-20-2010, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GET_SOME View Post
Maintenance is up to date. I bought the car from a friend of mine who is a mechanic. Turbo has been replaced, new clutch, new manifolds, new plugs, all fluids are new, new brake lines/pads/rotors... etc. And yes I've read the newbie stickies however things are not listed by any price and are just kinda spread out. I know what I SHOULD do, but where should I start. Just a list of maybe 4-6 things that I can do easily for a quick horsepower boost and nice looks for under $500.

Thanks
wtf did he change the turbo and manifolds and not upgrade them?


but anyways:
you can find boost guage for about 80 bucks

dv look in the classifieds, i just sold one for like 75 bucks

and tune, i sold my apr for 300ish... all that is less than 500


but if you go to a dealer, you will pay 500 for just the tune
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  #6  
Old 05-20-2010, 11:10 PM
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IMO Do your first 3 upgrades in this order: 1) Chip/DV 2)18" Audi style rims 3) Coilovers. The fourth thing to do would be your exhaust because it allows you to get more out of the chip. You can also paint your lowers at any time to match the rest of the car for a cheap mod that makes these cars look so much better.
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  #7  
Old 05-20-2010, 11:15 PM
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It's a 97, how many miles is on that thing?

I'll give it to you straight and show you what I've spent on my car, and I haven't even gotten to performance mods yet, and I'm a lil ticked at myself for that, but whatever.

Hawks HPS pads Front Only (ECS Tuning) $117.88
DDM HID Kit $94.63
S5 Projectors - Headlamps $273
Custom Europlate $44.95
Brake Rotors F+R $203.25
Magnaflow $180
Muffler Install $100
18inch RS4 Rims $521
Lowering Springs, Rear Pads, Spark Plugs $268
Tirerack - 4 Tires $428.86

$2113.87

I don't even have my tint in there, which was 130$. And my rims and tires haven't been mounted yet, I just got them. So you see where this is going.

You may want to seriously create a spread sheet and then think about what you want to really really really do. It will help, or next thing you know, you blew 2K on headlights and rims. And you could of blown that towards a turbo.
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Last edited by mikekey; 05-20-2010 at 11:19 PM.
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  #8  
Old 05-21-2010, 12:48 AM
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500 bucks is a good little starter fund, but its all gunna grow exponentially.. but the best part is all of the maintenance you dont have to do

heres a list and costs to me.. ill put in order from the first i purchased til the last.

Hardwired iPod to glovebox new -$150 (crutchfield.com)
Forge DV new - $130
AWE boost gauge new ~$200 (awe-tuning.com)
K&N intake new - $70 (i think K&N's website)
Borla 2.25" cat back new - $760 (AWE)
Ebay short shifter new - $25
Xenon interior bulbs new - $50 (eurosporttuning.com)
18"x8" RS4 reps new - $450 (OE wheel distributors)
General UHP tires from tirerack new ~$340
APR tuned new - $350 (on sale for single program thru my mechanic who is an APR dealer)
VMR 2.5" test pipe new - $160 (ebay)
Depo 2 piece projectors new - $230
DDM 6000k HID lows new - $50

If i had $500 spare and i could do it all over again.. and were buying new like i did, boost gauge and DV.. HIDs would be a poor choice with the pre facelift (pre 99.5) headlights even though its inexpensive.. short shifter is an excellent upgrade.. the shifter isnt as nice quality as B&M or JHM but it works great and for the money is wellll worth it..
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1999 1.8T // K03s Turbo - APR Tuned - N75R Valve - APR TIP - Short Shifter - 2.5" VMR Test Pipe - 2.25" Borla Exhaust - K&N Intake - Forge 007 DV - A8 Front Brakes - Projectors w/ 6000k HIDs - Interior/Plate/Reverse LEDs - RS4 Grille - Southbend Stage 2 Clutch - 18" B7 RS4 Reps - Hardwired iPod AWE Boost Gauge - Stratmosphere Floor Mats - Votex Rack

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  #9  
Old 05-21-2010, 10:00 AM
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Chip since it has the biggest effect on how the car fells for $500.
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Old 05-21-2010, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by osin34 View Post
500 bucks is a good little starter fund, but its all gunna grow exponentially.. but the best part is all of the maintenance you dont have to do

heres a list and costs to me.. ill put in order from the first i purchased til the last.

Hardwired iPod to glovebox new -$150 (crutchfield.com)
Forge DV new - $130
AWE boost gauge new ~$200 (awe-tuning.com)
K&N intake new - $70 (i think K&N's website)
Borla 2.25" cat back new - $760 (AWE)
Ebay short shifter new - $25
Xenon interior bulbs new - $50 (eurosporttuning.com)
18"x8" RS4 reps new - $450 (OE wheel distributors)
General UHP tires from tirerack new ~$340
APR tuned new - $350 (on sale for single program thru my mechanic who is an APR dealer)
VMR 2.5" test pipe new - $160 (ebay)
Depo 2 piece projectors new - $230
DDM 6000k HID lows new - $50

If i had $500 spare and i could do it all over again.. and were buying new like i did, boost gauge and DV.. HIDs would be a poor choice with the pre facelift (pre 99.5) headlights even though its inexpensive.. short shifter is an excellent upgrade.. the shifter isnt as nice quality as B&M or JHM but it works great and for the money is wellll worth it..
You know AWE is charging 239 for that gauge now, but I found this: http://www.jhmotorsports.com/shop/ca...roducts_id=573

Hey how do you like your OE Wheels, I just got mine yesterday, but they haven't been mounted to a tire or the car just yet.
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Old 05-21-2010, 02:34 PM
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i abosoloutley love them.. theyre a pain to keep clean and looking perfect (short dirt road) especially when it rains.. but they look amazing and everyone gives me props on them and tell me they look awesome.. i really do love them. and the paint quality and quality of the wheel is outstanding.. in a few years only a couple VERY tiny knicks, you cant even notice them.. well worth the money

also yea ive noticed them charging more for their gauge now.. i know i paid less than 240 for it, but it was around 200 i think.. personally i like theirs way more than APRs.. looks way more OEM
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2004 .:R32 // Flapper Mod - UM Tuned - K&N
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Old 05-21-2010, 03:04 PM
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Yeah Im def going with the AWE one since like what osin said, it has a definate oem look plus it has some hold buttons? i think. which is a plus
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Old 05-21-2010, 03:11 PM
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Just remember, when it comes to your visual mods, you're driving an awesome piece of German engineering, not a ricer. Modify accordingly.
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Old 05-21-2010, 04:26 PM
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exactly.. which is why id never go with an A pillar mounted gauge/cluster.. i mean you can do whatever you want, but im sure by looking youll see what you like and dont like, and hopefully its tasteful and clean and not ricey lol im sure youll be fine.. im really considering getting another Omori (the gauge AWE uses in their vent boost gauge) for oil pressure and a third one would be awesome to go across all three center vents.. or possibly just the oil pressure in the center vent to go along with the boost in the left hand center vent
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2004 .:R32 // Flapper Mod - UM Tuned - K&N
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Old 05-21-2010, 05:53 PM
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Click the image to open in full size.

The JHM motor sports looks pretty damn close to the AWE one. The ECS tuning one that is one piece, is pretty ugly along with APR's.

I'm with you, I want the car to look like a classy sexy car, not a rice rocket, not like eurotrash or a tuner. No offense but painting your wheels green to me screams imature teenager.

I dunno, maybe I'm ghetto, I just wanna look like a baller, shot caller, wish I was alil taller, wish I had a rabbit in the back....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MHkj804LCl0
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Old 05-21-2010, 06:06 PM
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I was thinking more along the lines of crazy body kits with a gawdy paint job and a huge wing on the back...

Don't get me wrong, a nice body kit that isn't excessive with a good, but low key paint job, lowered on some nice 17's or 18's looks great. Of course, it's your car, and it's up to the owner of what he or she wants to do with it. But, you will find that 99% of Audi owners on this forum frown on the whole ricer thing.

But, back to the original question. Your first mod should be a chip and DV (and skip the BOV idea altogether). The gains vs. the money spent is incredible. After that, save up for a good cat-back exhaust (I love my NeuSpeed, sounds good and is a little cheaper than most others) and through in a test pipe (if you don't have to worry about emissions testing) or HFC (if you need to pass emissions).

When you get your chip, make sure you regap your spark plugs (better yet, buy new ones) to .028.

I wouldn't worry about a new intake at first. The stock set up is pretty efficient, but a high quality drop in filter should help, but avoid K&N, or any other oiled filter. Some people have major MAF problems after using K&N. Some people don't have any problems at all. I say, why risk it.

Get yourself a new N75 valve from ECS Tuning for about 75 bucks. I can't speak from personal experience yet, but I've heard a few good things about them. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, because I plan to order on myself in the near future.

I'm pretty pleased with my GlowShift boost guage. It wasn't too expensive, and on the red setting, it matches pretty close. I hesitated for a bit about putting it in my left center vent, but finally broke down and did it, and it turned out pretty nice. I even purposely recessed it a bit so it would be a little more flush, and canted it slightly to the driver's side.

I'm not sure if you noticed or not, but I haven't even started into visual mods yet... you gotta make sure the performance is good to go before you try to make you car look like it can go fast...
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  #17  
Old 05-21-2010, 06:22 PM
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Funny part is that even if the oil filter was not what caused the MAF to go bad it is going to get blamed for it just because it is on the car and everyone keeps saying it is the reason their maf went bad. But yet K&N has already proven that fact to be FALSE many years ago.


If your car blows up while your woman is in the car and it ran perfectly fine when she wasn't, does that mean she blew up your car?
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Old 05-21-2010, 06:58 PM
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lol i like what youre sayin mike.. my maf coincidently did die the winter after i installed my K&N intake in early summer.. but it could have been anything.. ive since gone a full year with my other (used) maf with no issues.. but i think its time i clean that filter hahah
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2004 .:R32 // Flapper Mod - UM Tuned - K&N
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Old 05-22-2010, 01:18 AM
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i would never spend 200+ for a boost gauge thats just insane i paid $36 shipped for the VDO gauge from jegs and spent 2 hours making the center vent with my dremel and it looks just as good and i highly doubt the k&n filter is the cause for the maf going bad its just a crap part audi has like the icm's and the coils
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Old 05-22-2010, 03:33 AM
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All I'm saying is that I've heard too many complaints about the oil from the K&N filters fouling up the MAF sensor. I'm not saying it does, I'm not saying it doesn't. It's the same arguement about the whole DV/BOV. Some say they have no problems, other's can't get their car to run afterwards. I say, why risk it...?

And yes, Mike, IF I let a woman drive my car (HUGE IF), and it blew up... TOTALLY her fault... hahaha!
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Old 05-22-2010, 03:33 AM
 
 
 
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