IMHO Mobil 1 would be the best to get. Mobil 1 gets a bad rap from some on the web for not being a 'true' synthetic, but, niether is Castrol. In fact, Mobil sued Castrol for claiming to be synthetic but lost due to the courts saying Castrol was 'close enough'. So, Mobil 1 had to go back to what Castrol uses just to compete. Now people are saying Mobil 1 is not a 'true' synthetic and is a scam... but neither is and so is Castrol!! Mobil 1 is still the only oil most racing teams use, including Porsche.

So, after all that, I use Mobil 1 5w-40 Turbo Diesel Truck oil mainly because its the same version of the 5w-40 originally spec'ed for this car. Its only marketed as Diesel oil due to government mandates on oil and additives.


The additives are being removed for every brand of oil. Its mandated. Mobil 1 actually has more ZDDP than most regular branded oil. I suggest people to actually research over listening to 'web experts' (including myself).

 

It comes out of the factory with Castrol 0W-30 Made in Germany specifically rated for VW and Audi.


That's all I put in mine

 

If 5W40 is thicker than 0W40 then it is the other way around, I.E.


Mobil one 5W40 for summer. and 0W40 or 0W50 during winter.

 

Thanks for the feedback.

When I was talking with the manager at the auto parts store he mentioned using an additive the first time I put synthetic in 'to flush out any sludge'. He is the one who put me on to the Moble 1.

I am not sure what is in the car now, synthetic or conventional, does anyone have any experience with this kind of additive ?

Also would I need to change the oil again soon to remove all of the sludge that was being flushed out ?

Thanks again for the quick feedback, I am off to change the oil.

 

Dont know what 'additive' he is talking about. Personally, if you need to get the sludge out 'now' you can get some 0w-20 oil (any), some SeaFoam or similar, and a cheaper filter. Change the filter, put the oil in, half can of SeaFoam, run the motor for about 30 mins at about 2000 rpms (do not load the engine by driving), drain while hot, be amazed at the crap . Now, fill up with the Mobil 1 5w-40 Turbo Diesel Truck, put on a good filter, add the other half of SeaFoam to your gas tank at the next fill up. Change the oil again around 4-6k miles using either the same oil or 0w-40 and you should be set.

Good filters are the Mann, Purolater Pure One (PL30001), or Mobil 1 (M1-301). I personally wouldn't use any other filters.

 

My dealer uses Castrol Syntec full syn. Every 5k for me, and they charge $48 for everything. Cant do it myself for much cheaper than that.

 

Thanks again for the feedback.

I'll give the SeaFoam a shot the next time I change the oil. I did a quick search on SeaFoam and there are discussions about usiing it mostly in the fuel system but some rave about it in the oil also. Thanks for the heads up.

I am having a blast with this car. The tiptronic is fantastic. For some reason I seam to notice more troopers lately ?

I am going to be a 5K man myself, not that I am going to baby it, but it seams like cheep insurance. I prefer to do the maintenance myself, it has nothing to do with saving money. I changed the oil and air filter this past weekend. Did you know there is a prefilter screen for the air filter ? The one in my car had NEVER been cleaned and the guy I got the car from used the dealer for service. You can't pay someone enough for what you learn about your car but doing your own maintenance.

 

ive heard from a number of mechanics castol is the only way to go.

 

I just went to get my oil changed, and the mechanic put in mobil 1 15w50 synthetic. Is this ok for a 2004 A4 1.8T in the Los Angeles 60-100 degree summer weather?

 

I personally think its too thick, but it should do fine.

One thing I dont understand is why peeps think that something like 0w-30 is better in winter and 15w-50 is good for summer. Why? Your engine runs at the same temps, winter or summer (assuming a good cooling system, of course). If 40 weight is good running at 200F during winter, then its also good running at 200F during summer. Its the same 200F. Start-up temps are the only ones that change from summer to winter, and here, the first number counts, not the second, with the lower being better. In fact, you want to use the lowest number you can at ALL times since even 0w oil is thicker at 75F than 40 weight is at 200F! Think about how that effects your oil circulation at start-up...