I just replaced my driver's door lock actuator on my 2006 Audi A4 3.2L V6 B7 (USA). As far as I can tell the install went smooth without any hiccups. After reinstalling everything I found that the keyfob successfully locks and unlocks all doors using the remote buttons (before this functionality was non-responsive), but the physical key will no longer lock/unlock the driver's side vehicle (this used to work). Anyone have thoughts as to where I went wrong? Is this function associated with the door lock actuator and I received a faulty used part?

Everything is sealed up at the moment so I'm trying to figure out if I need a replacement part to order in advance so I don't have to disassemble/reassemble twice.

Currently, the external handle opens the door and the internal handle opens the door. The key also successfully turns left and right inside of the lock assembly, there's just no reaction from the vehicle to lock/unlock the driver's side door.

Thanks in advance.

 

Sounds like you might have left one of the wiring harnesses unplugged.

 

he said the remote unlocks and locks all doors just the physical key doesn't.


There is a push rod that goes from the lock cylinder to the latch assembly. It has a flat end that lines up to a flat key way in the latch. Sounds like you misaligned it

 

Thanks for the replies.

Audi Tek: Sounds like a reasonable response to my issue. Do you have any guidance for realigning that push rod? If I open up that area again would it be something that's easily/readily identifiable?

 

you would have to remove the lock cylinder again. If your confused email me at sandrews@penskeautomotive.com with your VIN and I can send you repair manual information

 

Missed that bit. Also couldn't remember if it was mechanically or electronically activated--been a while since I've been in the door panel. Sounds like you've got it under control.

 

I believe Audi Tek is correct and that I didn't reinsert the mechanism from the key lock cylinder back into the door lock actuator. I had previously replaced the rear passenger door lock actuator, which didn't have the key lock, so I think I overlooked this step when I went through reassembly. I didn't actually have to remove/adjust the lock cylinder for this installation, but there is a cable linking the two, which is where it sounds like I faulted in the process. Hopefully I can reattach it without having to remove the window again. I'll post a final update just for closure purposes once I get to work on the issue again.

 

Issue is resolved, there was a physical connection from the key lock cylinder, which had a blade like insert into the door lock actuator that was hidden from view (there was a plastic mold protector that hid this insert, likely to prevent debris from damaging the actuator). I assumed the key lock cylinder response was electrical, turns out I was wrong.

Thanks for the help from those that took the time to post.

 

When I had a similar situation, I contacted the local locksmith company. The locksmith arrived very quickly. I found out what the cause of the problems was and repaired everything. The repair took 15 minutes at that time. In addition, the cost of repairs was very cheap. Thus, I managed to save time on self-repair. Money because I could break everything completely myself. And nerves because I do not understand this issue, and it would be complicated for me to do this repair. Think about my words. Good luck to you!

 

Hi, please could you send me details of how you aligned the lock mechanism, I have the same problem you had in that when I turn the key, the lock will turn, but nothing happens. Thanks in advance for your time.