So I took the refurbished head apart to see if it really has hydraulic lifters. Indeed it does.

 

So I've been thinking about using this hydraulic lifter head in place of the mechanical lifter head and what might happen. The way I see it everything needed to make the hydraulic head function should be contained within the head especially as it is exactly the same physical shape as the old head. It should bolt right up. The only thing it needs to function is oil pressure to operate the tappets but almost everything else in there needs oil too. There's going to be oil regardless. So then it occurred to me that this oil may get to the tappets via an oil passageway that was blocked off by the mechanical head's gasket and if I just use the same configuration gasket I could be blocking off that oil supply that it will now need. So I thought, if I place the head on some paper towels and squirt a little brake cleaner down the oil feed hole for each tappet I will be able to see which passage way through the gasket it flows through, right? I'll try it today if I get to the shop.


Now for some progress because there has to be progress, no matter how small. It's important. As it looks like this project is going to take waaaaay longer than I'd hoped I thought it wise to at least free up the hoist by bolting the sub-frame back on. Should be easy to push without an engine and transmission but impossible without a sub-frame.

10626642_4684375203882_8666075169268164165_n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

 

More head research. I wanted to make sure the rebuilt head would get it's required oil feed if I just bolted it on to the block to I back-fed brake cleaner through a few of the lifter oil supply holes and guess what? It feeds through an existing port which is common to the cam bearings. Therefore it should get the oil feed it needs, right?

IMG_5999 by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


Now I just need a gasket and bolts. I checked the head thickness by the way: same as my old head.


I also acquired a third head for the sake of research. This was bought by a friend for use on a "10 valve turbo" engine but of unknown origin. He had it rebuilt but it doesn't have a cam. Intake valves are 38mm for what it's worth.

IMG_5995 by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr
IMG_5997 by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

IMG_5998 by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

The part number (casting number) and in fact the head itself are exactly the same as my rebuilt head. Researching the part/casting number produced a few hits suggesting it belongs to an Audi 5000 turbo. Interesting no?

So I think I'm ready to commit my rebuilt head to the block. I guess I should check that first though eh?

 

Sorry about the lack of updates. Been busy with domestic stuff and wheel sales. I did manage to cobble together a list of parts. Some of the part numbers might be right.

URQ parts by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

If you have any of these or any correction or even something I've missed please let me know.

 

I've ordered around $1000 of parts from Jeff at Sunset Porsche-Audi and ECS but I'm missing a few hard to find NLA type pars. Perhaps you can help?


clutch slave cylinder 1
hall sender 1 035905065a
intake manifold bolt 1 N0147112
subframe bushings rear 2 857199419B

Anyone have any of these or a source let me know. Keen to slap this thing back together.

 

Uh oh, parts list just got bigger due to ECS's overly ambitious inventory system.

Now need:

clutch slave cylinder 1
hall sender 1 035905065a
*intake manifold bolt 1 N0147112
subframe bushings rear 2 857199419B
*cam belt cover rear 1 035109143
*head gasket 1 035 103 383 J
* lower cam belt cover 1 069109110

Parts marked * are going to hold me up

Anybody have any ideas?

 

Parts are starting to show up now. Going to be out of excuses soon.

Unfortunately I think these injector holders and the one injector are going to be wrong for this head.

10730823_4877057900829_2305598962791364810_n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


But all this stuff is going to be appropriate.

10641147_4896544827990_8614829789583874774_n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

 

Uh oh. One these things is not like the other.

14021_4902690701633_2807930600885551481_n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


The old engine mount on the left is 431199381N. The new one I ordered is 431199381J

Which one should I be using?

 

I may be back on Quattro duty! The brief disruption to service was caused by us taking on more space and building a new home for the cars. There's space for a red Quattro too:



That done I got stuck into the Quattro this week. Cleaned up the injector holders, added new seals and reinstalled the cam. Whatever next?

10421360_4983024029916_5750247918984850872_n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

10547650_4983023989915_8188935954119229409_n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

10417466_4983024109918_2381330989501507744_n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

10405371_4983024069917_6905935358714217510_n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


Rigged up idler pulley puller. Very effective.

1898048_4988955498199_3503304297882499277_n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


Installed new seal and pulley and reinstalled the oil pump.

10516841_4995859950806_7764989237165593525_n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

10418930_4995859870804_8554211402051516207_n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


I couldn't find any marks to line up right now so this is a close to #1 at TDC as I could eyeball:

10801853_4995860030808_8338472303711305872_n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


and with #1 valves all closed that should be close enough for now right? Head is on but not torqued down yet.

1796693_4995860710825_8579514944658249121_n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


Missing some parts so will have to work on other aspects of the project over the holiday. Is it true it's best to use TWO crankshaft seal cover gaskets to move the lip of the seal out of the old wear groove?

10251926_4995859990807_8421117288609436862_n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

 

I've been thinking about how to set valve timing on this engine. The manual says to align the mark on the flywheel with the indicator on the bell housing and the mark on the camshaft pulley with the top of the head. I really don't want to have to install the gearbox before I can set timing; is there another way? There is also mention of setting the mark on the crankshaft pulley with a boss on the oil pump but I have read this can be unreliable. Does anyone know the number of teeth on the belt between the two marks once the cam belt is on?




One more question: does the black seal go on the plastic or on the brass?






I did make some progress this weekend but got distracted by some bright and shiny things that turned up:






Once that bit of fun was over I started to refurbish the engine's tin ware. Degreased, wire brushed and treated with rust eater:




Tomorrow I'll source some POR15 and finish them in black.