My apologies, it's been a while since I have updated this thread and that's because it's been a while since I worked on the car. My wife's A3 booted the Quattro off the hoist a while back and I've since been too busy with the parts business to get it back on. Well that change this weekend when I found the hoist vacant along with my schedule. So on it went, again.




I am waiting for a friend to figure out how to replace the hydraulic hoses while using the original fittings so I thought I'd tackle bleeding the brakes which, of course required freeing up the rusted bleed nipples in the calipers. Well I only broke two off, left front and left rear!




How do I fix these? I imagine it involves removing the calipers which I managed quite easily on the left front but the left rear is fighting me. I managed to unhook the handbrake cable from the lever but the outer sheath looks like it's fused to the caliper in it's seat.






I'm also struggling to get the brake union on the inner fender separated.




I left them soaking in PB Blast overnight. Think that will work?

 

More progress but nothing picture worthy, sorry. I managed to free up both the handbrake cable and the brake line union yesterday but was less successful with the brake calipers. Unless you count that I was able to remove the rear caliper and place it on the bench that is.

So I cut a slit in the front caliper's bleed screw, or at least what was left of it. The stub was protruding about 4mm so there was quite a bit to work with. I had hit it with PB Blaster again when I got there so that had had an hour to soak in. I heated it as much as I could with a propane torch then with CFC Freeze Off and then heated again. I then hit it with my impact screwdriver and guess what? No, it didn't come right out; it broke right off flush with the caliper

Needless to say I didn't move on to the rear caliper.

So what's next, drilling it out and re-tapping, reverse drilling? New car?

 

I found a few hours to work on the car today. I basically pulled off more parts. Gotta start installing parts.

Tried EasyOut on one of the seized bleeders. FAIL




So turned my attention to the CIS injection system because you can never have enough parts on the floor.












Then started thinking about getting the downpipe welded back together. If you remember it separated after the engine stand let go and allowed the engine to rotate! This meant reassembling everything on the engine so I could mark the orientation which might be important.

 

SUCCESS! Las night, with a lot of help from my mein Freund Werner and some Rojo Red lubrication we drilled out the seized bleeder screws from the brake calipers.

We first established a pilot hole all the way through the bottom of the bleeder then chased that with a tap drill being carful to stop once we reached the end of the threads.



Because the tip of the bleeder was smaller than the tap drill it was left loose in the bottom of the hole and after cleaning out the threads was easily extracted.








Obviously a lot of debris found it's way into the piston chamber, especially as we cleaned out the other threads too, so we dismantled them with a view to giving them a thorough cleaning and any needed replacement parts. Right now they look to be in good condition though so I'll probably just reassemble them.

 

Always use anti-seize lubricant on those brake hose and bleeder threads. I just totally disassembled and sandblasted the front calipers on the 87 5000SQ (dual piston Girling Calipers) I'm rebuilding and I had NO problem getting the bleeders and hoses loose even after being as rusty as yours because at some point many years ago I had put anti-seize on them while changing the pads. I left the pistons and dust seals in place while sand blasting in order to protect the bores though. I then honed them and painted the caliper with caliper paint. New seals ($12 per caliper) and slathered break grease on all the internals before putting it all back together. They look GREAT now.

I just had put new rear calipers on the car before I parked it. They have a slight coat of rust on them. I hope to get them blasted clean with dry ice somewhere so I won't have to disassemble them and paint with caliper paint to keep them from rusting again.

I'm looking forward to seeing your GT finished. I'd LOVE to score one just like it sometime. All the ones I've seen around here are not Quattros. I want a Quattro.

 

While waiting for parts to come in I decided it might be a good idea to take inventory of all the spare parts I already have and make a list. This was prompted by the realization that I have recently ordered parts that I already have in my collection of parts bins! Let the list making begin.

Used parts:




New parts: (yes, we sell Corbaeu seats)




Take offs (used to be on the car)




Turns out I have a lot of spare parts, 129 separate items if I include take offs and lumping together most of the removed AC stuff. I tried to figure out part numbers for everything and got pretty close. I did discover that about a dozen parts I inherited from the PPO (previous previous owner) aren't actually for a UR Quattro so that was good to know.

 

Finally got my Unicorn clips from Germany. AKA actuator clips. I only need one but got a few spares.




All the bits needed to make the center diff actuate.




Installed

 

I checked the timing again. The cam pulley and bell housing seem to me to be as you described. I forgot to check the tab on the oil pump housing but the mark on the crank pulley lines up with the pip on the cam belt cover. Pics are not the best, soz.

 

Popped the waste gate back on the other day. Doesn't seem to use a gasket!




Then this arrived. Can you guess what it is?




Repaired down pipe curtesy of Thompson Racing Fabrication (TRF)




I don't know much about welding but it can't be easy to weld stainless steel to cast iron. Apparently Audi didn't do a good job the first time.



I'm not installing it yet as the engine will want to lean on it while it's sitting on the dolly.

I did remove the leaking coolant reservoir though Yep, the more parts I install the more I remove. Even with the engine out Audi found a way to make it difficult to remove. This is leaking from the seam around the top. Any ideas about repairing it or does it have to be replaced. Can it be replaced?

 

Now the timing looks good. I think you've got it.