How to install your Podi gauge package (lots of pics)

[MC Hammered]

*** This install guide is focused on the B6 chassis due to the fact that is what I own. When compiling this information I realized that attaching the vacuum line to a B7 2.0t is a bit different than on the B6 1.8t. Until I can test the steps required to correctly tap into your vacuum line I do suggest that all B7 owners double check the vacuum line location and speak to someone to confirm the steps before you start installation. I do apologize for this inconvenience but I am working to resolve this issue for this installation guide ASAP*** Please be aware that these tips are provided for your reference only and that neither I or podi.ca are liable for any damage or malfunction that may occur to you or your vehicle due to improper installation. If at any time the instructions become confusing please try to get clarification before proceeding any furthur with the installation. Here are the steps I suggest people use to install their Podi boost gauge package. I am sure there are many other ways this can be done but I found this to be the easiest. The steps documented below were born from the fact I could not remove the windshield wiper arm in order to gain access to the ECU area. I tried and decided I didn't want to damage the wiper arm or anything else trying remove it. From everything I have read it is easier to run the vaccum line first and then install the the boost gauge afterwards. You will need the following to complete the installation: Small flathead screwdriver Longneck Torx T8 screwdriver 8mm, 10mm sockets and ratchet/handle Scissors Wire strippers/cutters Crimper/pliers Electrical tape Small bottle of white glue masking tape a few zip ties Floor jack Wheel lugnut wrench Part 1 - Installing the vacuum line This is where your knee bolster is located Pop off the fuse panel cover on left end of the dashboard by instering a small flathead screwdriver into the notch and and gently pop the cover open, then with your hands you can carefully pop the rest of the cover off. There are 3 8mm bolts that fasten the bolster to the dashboard. One of them is on the fuse panel left end of the dashboard. The other two bolts are on the left and right sides fo the bolster below the steering column. One the bolts are removed the bolster is held in place by some friction clips. Reach below the bolster and gently pull forward and you will see the bolster break away from the dash. After removing the knee bolster and looking for a grommet to pass the line through. I found a big grommet that has 7 openings on it and 2 of them are already used. You can see the grommet in the center of these pictures Now you need to jack up the driver side of the car and remove the wheel. Once the wheel is removed you will see the other side of the grommet. If you look on the other side of the wheel well there is another grommet that accesses right into the engine bay and directly under the intake manifold where the boost line you want to tap into hangs. I chose the 3rd nipple on the bottom row as it was the closest to the size of the vacuum tube. I snipped the tip of it off and also made a small slit on the top to allow for the tapered end of the nipple to expand if needed to accomodate the tubing as I fed it through from the inside Feed it past any cables and into the engine bay The stock vacuum hose is connected to the intake manifold where it is circled in red Detach the stock vacuum hose from the intake manifold. Cut 2.0” off the end of the boost gauge hose that you fed into the engine bay. The enclosed T-fitting has a brass reducer in one of the 3 arms. This arm must be connected to the boost gauge line to prevent buzzing during operation. You connect one of the other arms to the stock vacuum hose and the remaining arm to the 2.0" piece of vacumm tube which finally connects to the intake manifold. Use the zip ties to secure the vacuum lines to the fittings. Secure the vacuum tubing to the existing lines so there is no way it was going to move around and trim it up Put the driver side wheel back on and lower the car back on the ground. You can now plug the vaccum line into the back of the boost gauge and test the operation of the gauge at this time by starting the engine. You should see ~20 inHg of vacuum at idle.

[MC Hammered]

Part 2 - Attaching the silver bezel onto the boost gauge (optional)

If you purchased the gauge with the silver bezel you do have the option of running the setup with or without the bezel.

If you wish to attach the bezel then you will need a bit of white glue to do so.

Drop a thin bead of white glue onto the inside part of the bezel



Place the bezel onto a flat surface and then carefully take your gauge and place it onto the bezel.





You can always install the boost gauge without the bezel and if you change your mind then you can place the bezel onto the gauge bezel and use some tape to hold it in place until the glue dries.




Part 3 - Installing the gauge

First we must remove the OEM steering column cover. Locate the 2 screw opening underneath your steering column. Carefully insert the Torx T8 screwdriver up the shaft and slowly unscrew the screw.



When you feel the screw disengage carefully lower the screwdriver, remove the screw and put it in a safe location. Repeat for the other side




DO NOT lose these screws as you will need them to secure the new column pod to the OEM lower piece!

With both screws removed you can now take the OEM cover off. Carefully grasp the cover with both hands, gently lift the cover upwards and then pull towards the steering wheel





The cloth cover on the back is held in place with a bunch of plastic clips. To remove the cloth cover on the back slide your fingernail between the cloth and the plastic and pull the cloth cover away to pop the clip off.






We will be powering the gauge from the dimmer lead in order to have the gauge change its backlight brightness with the instrument cluster.

To access the wiring you grasp the headlight switch



Push the center part of the headlight switch inwards



Twist the switch clockwise between the '0' and 'Auto' marks and it should catch and stay depressed



Now you can gently pull the entire headlight switch out



Take the gauge wiring harness and feed the black and white wired end from the front of the steering wheel towards the headlight switch.

The blue+gray wire is the dimmer wire. Using one of the wiretaps crimp one side onto the blue+gray wire and the other side to the white wire on the gauge wiring harness.

** Pay close attention to how the wiretap connector works or you will have lighting issues with the gauge.



If you look underneath the knee bolster to the far left there should be a cluster of solid black and solid brown wires which should be secured to a metal post via a screwdown nut. This is a common grounding point for the electrical system. Using the second wiretap crimp one side onto one of the black/brown wires and the black wire from the gauge wiring harness.

When this is completed you can test the gauge backlighting by plugging the gauge wiring harness into the back of the gauge and turning your headlight switch on. The gauge should light up and dim/brighten with your dimmer controls.

If you find that the gauge is too bright then you use the supplied resistor to adjust the brightness level.

To do this you cut the white wire from the gauge wiring harness in half, trim the white jacket to expose the wire and attach one of the supplied barrel crimps to one end. Repeat for the other end of the other white wire. When this is done you can then crimp the resistor inline to complete the circuit. With the resistor in place it will reduce the gauge backlight level to closely match the instrument cluster.

If you are happy with the way the gauge lights up then disconnect the wiring harness and vacuum line if attached from the back of the gauge. Push the headlight switch back into its opening until you hear it click into place.

You can now thread the wiring harness and vacuum line through the steering column gauge pod opening and seat the pod onto the steering column. Attach the wiring harness and vacuum line to the gauge and push the gauge into the opening and adjust its position to your liking.


Part 4 - Securing the gauge

The gauge is held in place with only friction and it will slightly move. In order to prevent it from moving we need to secure it with a bit of white glue.

With the steering column pod in place insert the boost gauge into the opening and align the gauge to the position you like.

Use some masking tape to secure the gauge to the pod in order to lock down its position




Spread a bead of white glue between the edge of the pod and boost gauge







If you set the pod upside down to let the glue set it will run around the entire edge of the gauge to completely hold it in place.

Let the glue dry before proceeding with the next step. Using a hair dryer does help speed up the process.


Part 5 - Finishing the installation

When the glue has dried you can now complete the installation.

Carefully connect the wiring harness to the back of the gauge




Connect the vaccum hose to the boost gauge




Make sure the wiring harness and vacuum line are clear and attach the column pod back onto the lower steering column and use the 2 Torx 8 screws to secure it to the lower piece.

You can now reverse the process to reattach the knee bolster and fuse cover.

Congratulations! You are finished!