I have an 2001 B5 1.8tQtip.A little while ago the check engine light came on, a little while after that the it has recently started to idle funny at stoplights. I installed a Apexi Turbo Timer and noticed that when the volt is high on the battery it seems less noticeable (the idle problem not the timer)? I changed the spark plugs (NGK platnium) and also took the injectors out and cleaned them. But the problem still was there.
Now just recently,when the car starts up Ihave aserious lack in power from starts? I apply the gas and it willslowly gain power. On the highway itsometimes acts funny(pauses before gaining power) when punchingthe gas. After the car is warmed up it seems fine. I was checking under the hood and saw that the crank case breather hose had a major crack in it. After replacingthat,the problemit still persists.
I did change the battery a while ago, and placed a K&N inthe stock box. So I'm not sure what else it could be. It also has just hit 110,000 miles(if that helps at all)
I thought maybe the coil packs(from what I have been reading in previous posts)? Does that sound right? Maybe thetransmission???
This is my First Audi So I'm learning, any help would be great!

 

Get your codes read at a local parts store and I am sure someone hear can help. Sort of sounds like a dirty MAF sensor but cant be sure without any codes.

 

It doesn't hurt to clean the MAF anyway with some electrical cleaner.
You can pick a can up at the auto part store when you go to get your codes read.

 

READ THE DAM CODES!!!!

" my car runs like poop, the CEL is one, what to do?" READ THE DAM CODES, that is what you do!

 

Thanks for all the help. I will get a can of the electric cleaner and the codes read tonight to see if I can get some more help.

As for why I didn't get the codes read earlier I planned on getting them read at the dealership.They told meover the phone that "The CEL is not a verygood indicator and more of a dummy light. If its not flashing then its not serious. Itcan mean something as simple as a loosegas cap." He also said that "if the car is running ok that it can take multiple times of starting and turning off before the CEL will reset again." He said also that actule miles had to be put on the car for this to happen and not just sitting in the drive way runinin the starter. Is that true?Is this true?

2k S4:
One more questionifthey use aVAG-COM to get the codes, do they also have a tool to read the "DAM" codes as well?

 

thats one of the stupidest things i have heard. a tech at a dealer told you that? which dealer? for future reference, if you have a drivability problem, and the mil light is on, then there is a damn good chance they are related... they are a referance, and dont tell you the problem out right most of the time, but if you can find out the enable criteria then you can figure out what the problem is. flashing mil just means iminent damage from misfire can occur. many other problems can be a real issue with possible damage that will only kick on the light, or sometimes not even kick on a light. find out what the codes are, if its an obvious fix do that, if not, then write back what the problem is and we can go from there

it does sound like a MAF problem. Does your vehicle have one, or does it have a MAP? if it is an air flow sensor then your K&N may be screwing it up, either from over oiling.. or just long term build up. they need to be cleaned every couple of air filter cleanings because the oil disrupts the sensors ability to monitor air.

kevin

 

I am assuming it was not a tech that told him that, it was most likely an advisor. They have no clue they just tell you what they have seen and have no idea what is going on. Its kind of like me guessing without any DAMN CODES.

 

I'm not sure if it was a tech or not. I had called the Audi dealer in Lansing, MI. I was trying to set up an appointment to have it looked at. It was someone from the Garage though.
I wanted to get it fixed beforedriving to CA.

I finally found a store that let me use there scanner (all weekend) however its a OBDII ? Is there a difference?The code that came up was "P0107" , It also said on the tool that "system to lean Bank 1"
I did clean the MAF with electric cleaner and erased the code. Everything seemed fine and the lite staed off for about 40 miles. And then came back on. I followeed the same process again, took MAF out cleaned with electric spray and erased code. Sure enough aboutan hour of drivingthe CEL popped back on. This time I simpley hooked the tool up and erased the code. I ran the the cararound the block and I assume its going to pop back on.
I'mI not cleaningit right ? I used the whole can. Is there something else wrong? like theoil from the K&N? Any help would be great.

 

well a p0107 is a generic code for a MAP sensor.. i dont know what you know, but are you sure you have a MAF sensor? if you do, there will be two little white wires that stick down into the air stream. with the cleaner, make sure the sensor is cold, when you first shut off the engine, that sensor is heated to 1800 degrees to clean it, if you spray it hot you will break it.. if the wires are white and look clean they arnt the problem, if they have little hairs sticking out of them, or are brown, or black.. then they are dirty. it shouldnt take much to clean it, you can even buy MAF cleaner, works better than electrical cleaner. what kind of code reader are you using? if it has a description of the code available, write it down, it may even have "code tips" which will tell you directions to start diagnosing in.. if it says the bank is too lean, you can try making sure its getting the right amount of fuel with a fuel gauge.. you code doesnt seem to be in line with what you car has, assuming you have a MAF and not a MAP.

good luck
Kevin

 

LOL I am a total Noob but I do have a MAF. And believe I figured out half my problem. When taking the MAF outI was cleaning the air box and making sure there was no loose crap in there. It noticed a hose felt loose so I took the skid plate off and sure enogh the plastic hose that goes into the front of the air box and comes from the bottom of the car had somehow came loose (from the bottom). I got that back on and that has cured the lack in power. (What is that anyways? A pump hose?) I also did use MAF cleaner(A DIY said it was the best to use) I think that its clean as can be. However after searching around with that code I found a thread that blammed the Fuel filter. (I have cleanor changed everything else that other threads have said, plugs TB, injectors etc.) So after returning the scanner today I picked up a new fuel filter. I figure it could use a new one regardless.
I rented / usedANOBDII scanner from autozone. Due to the CA state law they can't do it so you have to "borrow" them and DIY. I wasn't about to go to the lastgarage I had look /scan the car. They chargedme about 100 for a scan and another crazy amount to diagnose it? Then theye told me it would cost1,200 to fix everything. Ithought I was screwd. Turns out they just wanted to screw me. THey handed me a list of they said where on there and it turns out not one of them actually came up. They also gave me a listof the parts that need to be replaced includinga couple 200.00 dollar o2 sensors.a 468.00 throtte bodyand a few other 100.00 parts. Ahhh and then Labor on top of all that. So being as cheep as I am, Tommorow after work, back on thestands she goes and see. if thats (fuel filter)the culprit. HereI come DIY pages!
Thanks for all your help and I'll let you know how it goes.