Thanks a lot for the help. I have 2.5 to 2 coupler from throttle body to maf the another 2.5 to2 from maf to the pipes I will buy thanks to you . If you do get a chance to see the piping in Front of you let me know. As far as my mods. By the way how is your setup working for you any problems or smooth sailing ?

 

Still without the piping in front of me, I came across some pictures of my old car's intercooler piping setup for blow-through MAF. They are in this post:
https://www.audiforums.com/forum/nit...0/#post1352827

I was correct in my previous post regarding the angles.
For 2-inch piping, 2.5" intercooler outlet, and stock throttle body:
intercooler --> 2.5" to 2" 45-degree reducing silicone coupler --> 2" 90-degree pipe --> 2" silicone hump hose coupler --> 2" 45 degree pipe --> 2" to 2.5" straight reducing silicone coupler --> throttle body

For 2-inch piping, 2.5" intercooler outlet, stock throttle body, and 3" blow-through MAF housing:
intercooler --> 2.5" to 2" 45-degree reducing silicone coupler --> 2" 90-degree pipe --> 2" to 3" 45-degree reducing silicone coupler --> 3" VR6 MAF housing --> 3" to 2.5" straight reducing silicone coupler --> throttle body

What I've got on my current car, at this moment isn't very ideal: FrankenTurbo F21, stock AWM tune, stock injectors, and everything else listed in my signature line. The stock tune/injectors are for SMOG testing.
Once SMOG testing related stuff is done I hope to go back to having my Motoza tune (with 550cc injectors) tweaked to get that to where I want it.

 

Or if you remember pipes approximately how many inches the 90 bend pipe was total . I don't want to have a pipe to short or to long XD I'm trying to move that maf away from the hotside and it looks a lot cleaner with everthing moved away from the turbo area. Ah very nice set up right now I have just the front mount / ko4-15 with pc16 tune and 330 injectors with a 3 bar fuel pressure regulator and stage 1 clutch . Hoping to go gt28rs BT in the near future

 

No boost gauge as of yet. It's on the list, as well as new coil packs, I like the ones you have listed, and injectors. I also want to finish with a full exhaust. The problem with all of this is that I can't do half mods, I need to save $ to get it done. I wish there was some sort of way to hack out all the piping and just make it simple and clean, but that's where my lack of knowledge is killing me!

 

To do full exhaust will be pretty pricey ! For me I spent $120 on a 3inch down pipe with no cat plus $300 for the rest of exhaust 3inches mandrel bend as well with no muffler . The car is loud but I'm looking into putting a resonator

 

RedA4B5 : I pulled out the cold-side intercooler piping finally this past weekend, and I have it in a convenient location but didn't yet have time to take any pictures. It looked like just what I described in Post #252
Will try to get that picture soon. Also I do plan on keeping the pipes and couplers from this, since I'm going to try to fabricate a new hot-side intercooler piping for my current setup (to replace the CX Racing hot-side piping).

Had a decently eventful weekend for the A4: Thursday I received my next revision (# 6) of my Motoza tune, so I swapped back in the 550cc injectors and flashed the new tune.

Friday was a day off for me, so I prepped my car for emissions testing:
1) put all PCV components back to stock, along with a new suction jet pump.
2) re-installed the EGR valve, N112 valve, and SAI hard pipe. I did NOT reinstall the SAI pump and hose that goes between the airbox and SAI pump.
3) Swapped my 034 Motorsport high-flow catalytic converter for the stock cat.
4) Removed my FMIC and swapped in the stock SMIC.
5) Kept my Motoza tune and 550cc injectors, since the tune has SAI coded out with a readiness-setting trick.

I went in for SMOG testing on Saturday morning and PASSED!!! This is a big deal to me since California has extremely strict requirements and there is a thorough visual check. The car looked pretty much stock as far as the technician could tell since the non-stock / removed components were in non-visible areas

In a couple weeks I plan to swap back in the high-flow cat and FMIC, and also plan to reinstall my catch can and delete the other non-necessary PCV system components.

 

Finally got a picture of my old driver-side intercooler piping:



I should note that at the end of the hump hose coupler used to be a straight pipe (actually had a nipple for DV relocation), then a 2" --> 2.5" silicone reducing coupler.

 

This past weekend I spent time swapping back in my modified parts (high-flow cat, FMIC, etc.) to replace the emissions-compliant components that were there to allow the car to pass SMOG.

Gotta say the car pulls A LOT harder with FMIC and high-flow cat. Kinda surprised me actually

 

It's been a little while! Things haven't changed too much in the last month...

• upgraded transmission mounts to 034 Motorsport Street Density mounts ; definitely added extra NVH but is tolerable to me for daily driving. It's also improved a bit as they "wear in". At idle there isn't extra vibration unless the AC is on.
  These complement 034 Motorsport Street Density engine mounts (those added no noticeable NVH)
• prepping to relocated coolant pipe to below the intake manifold. This will make the engine back look nicer and also allow the intake manifold to be removed without draining/losing coolant.
• prepping to install custom hot-side FMIC piping. This will replace the current CX Racing piping which sits below the AC condenser lines, so the new piping will sit above those AC lines. This will keep the piping away from the ground, and I will make sure this will clear the passenger-side fog light as well.
• in conjunction with ^^, will have a nipple welded to the hot-side piping for the DV, so that pre-throttle body [cold] air will be diverted back to the intake. This will also simplify the hot-side FMIC piping.

Parts hoarding:

• Newsouth Power Gasket for small-port 1.8T, to potentially/hopefully reduce intake manifold temperature and therefore reduce IAT a little.
• black powdercoated interior door handles. Also 2 new door handle springs since my driver's-door spring is broken (floppy handle).
• S4 side skirts and some brackets. Picked them up locally a couple months ago, already in silver! Probably don't have everything I need though... Planning to trim the A4 lower door moldings and door sills to fit the S4 skirts.
• rear brake lines in stainless steel (ECS Tuning brand). These are brand new, and picked up all 4 for only $42 shipped! (already have S.S. front brake lines)

Will be getting the windows tinted 50% front-side windows and 35% back-side and rear windows in a couple weeks. Really excited to move away from fish bowl and have a cooler interior!

Another thing I'm in the planning stage of is water/meth injection. Basically thinking of doing a single nozzle in the cold-side FMIC piping, and direct-port injection in the intake manifold runners. I really want to maximize my turbo/setup on CA 91 octane gas without going E85, and without also switching to a larger FMIC (like Treadstone TR18T).
Want to build my own W/M controller using Arduino and a RC airplane brushed motor controller. I want to tie into OBD/CAN instead of running wires to all the existing sensors (MAF, IAT, RPM, MAP, etc) and develop code that I can tweak as much as needed. The motor controller will be for varying pump flow, and also there will be a solenoid (non-PWM controlled) to enable & disable W/M flow.

 

I have the same setup and was curious what HP Motoza is spitting out at you.