Finally had a chance to compile all the data from the dyno runs. There were 4 runs, and each gave pretty much the same numbers despite the AFPR tweaking I did (went a little richer after each run to get AFR in check). The results disappointed me a bit to say the least, considering these numbers would be along the lines of a K04-0015 through a QUATTRO drivetrain.

Gas used was Shell 91 octane. At the bottom end (2000-2700 RPM) my car has a slight pinging noise, I thought it was some mechanical component, and the dyno guy suggested it might have been engine knock. In any case he thought there was something odd with my car and felt like it wasn't as smooth as it could be. He also suggested it's possible I have TOO MUCH spark, never heard of this before, but in any case the spark plugs were 2,300 mile-old NGK BKR7E freshly gapped to 0.028". Also I am running ATW coil packs with the ICM deleted, so I definitely have a stronger spark than your typical AEB.

Here are the results from the last dyno run:


Keep in mind that the MAF values are corrected based on the fact that my current MAF housing has a cross-sectional area 26% larger than the stock MAF housing.

 

Is the car custom tuned for the larger MAF? Because a larger maf is going to cause lower load readings which is going to allow the ECU to run too much timing.

How much boost are you running?

 

Not running tuning designed for this MAF size... just GIAC PC-16 (stock MAF). I hadn't considered the effects of a larger MAF housing on engine load, my main goal was to account for the fueling discrepancy. But that is an interesting thought... I could try switching back to the stock MAF/315cc injectors/2.8bar fuel pressure and see how things compare.

Right now it's running 24psi using the N75, but limited with a MBC. At the 7000 RPM mark on the dyno it was still holding 16-18psi.

 

Have you checked to see how much timing the ECU is pulling at WOT?

 

Based on the graphs a few posts up, looks like my timing was sitting around 6-15 deg. at WOT. In part throttle it can get up to about 38 deg. but I'm not sure how critical that is.

 

Your graph at the top of this page shows around 30 deg. at 2k rpm. Is that WOT or part throttle?


That graph shows you at 6-15 deg. from 2500 on up during the pull. But still need to see how much timing the ECU is trying to pull back, if it is trying to pull way too much timing back it could be the reason your car is making K04-15 power.

 

In previous runs WOT started around 2300 RPM, but in this case it looks like it may have begun as early as 1800 RPM (I wasn't controlling the throttle).
But even still the timing is similar to when I ran the PC-16 normally (stock MAF, 315cc injectors, etc) and the K03/GIAC stage 1, comparing the data from post #21 to post #5.

I've been wondering if maybe there is a fouled sensor, like bad MAF/IAT/CTS/N75/etc. Or maybe an issue with spark. Or maybe I simply need to reduce the boost threshold.

This coming weekend I'll pull the turbo and exhaust manifold, install new gaskets (turbo/exhaust mani, exhaust mani/head, turbo/downpipe) and new nuts/studs, and make sure all gaskets match the diameters of the items they're sealing. It's seemed like there is an exhaust leak that won't show itself so hopefully it can be eradicated. Also planning to switch back to 315cc/2.8bar/stock airbox/stock MAF and do more logging on the street, not the dyno.

 

Performed a compression test today. Managed to get my 3-year-old tester stuck in cylinder #1 but fortunately was able to remove it (scary to think it could have remained stuck!), and exchange for a new one through warranty Anyways, compression is not an issue...

Killed the engine by pulling the fuel pump fuse while it was running, and did the test with that fuse and all coil packs removed, with throttle at WOT. Cylinders 1 --> 4: 169, 174, 172, 171 psi. Not the highest but with 137k miles I'm satisfied

Today I ordered the following parts:
-all exhaust/turbo gaskets, and nuts so this weekend I can install the new turbo bolts with locknuts and make sure there are no exhaust leaks
-coolant temp sensor ("blue" square 4-pin version)
-intake air temp sensor
-used OEM MAF ($25 shipped from Ebay... can't be that bad, right?) to make sure my current MAF sensor isn't faulty

Also I think my valve cover is leaking because my car is noticeably dripping oil and the rear passenger side of the engine looks wet, and so far after about 2500 miles since the last oil change I've had to add about 3/4 qt of oil. This is sad since I just did cam chain tensioner/half moon seal/valve cover gaskets less than 6000 miles ago.

 

Guess who's been busy this New Year's weekend???! Despite all of the festivities of going out Friday and New Year's Eve, and subsequently waking up after 12pm, I've gotten a bit done (though still taking my sweet-*** time).

Unfortunately despite my best efforts and extensive modifications to my 12mm combination wrench, I have failed at removing about half of the copper nuts that hold the FrankenTurbo exhaust manifold to the head. So the nuts which were removed, will be replaced, but this means I'm not able to replace the exhaust mani gasket.

My goal was to take the exhaust mani off to do 3 things: replace its gasket, gain access to the bolt closest to the head that holds the turbo on (can't do it with the mani bolted on...), and make it easy on myself to drill and tap a 1/8" NPT hole for the addition of an EGT temp probe. Instead I'll use a Dremel to cut the bolt out and will have to make-do with the limited space to drill/tap the hole.

Also pulled the turbo and cat out of the car. I already swapped the gasket between the cat/turbo and installed new nuts (they get installed together). Found out that I only had 2/3 bolts holding the downpipe to cat, whoops! That certainly wouldn't help anything. So this time around I decided to put studs on the downpipe-side of the cat so I can simply use nuts to secure the downpipe to cat. It's always been a pain to install bolts in that location.

Got the coolant and intake air temp sensors replaced, and swapped in 315cc injectors to use with the stock MAF housing (and will bump the AFPR to ~41-42psi).

I've been getting really anxious to find out how my car will drive after all this! It's been undriveable since Thursday after work (3 days) and I'm getting tired of walking to/from my GF's house LOL.

 

After a painstaking amount of time the work was completed by yesterday morning. Turns out I was able to drill/tap the hole for the EGT sensor probe with the exhaust mani still attached to the car, though the hole is plugged for the time being.

Found something interesting related to the gasket between the turbo and exhaust mani. The OEM gasket I bought has holes that don't quite allow the gasket center hole to line up with the FrankenTurbo inlet. Since it's an OEM gasket I would guess this is a fault of the turbo. Not a big deal, except that the gasket has a lip around the center hole which if not seated concentrically to the turbo port, won't actually form a seal between turbo/exhaust mani... so I'm pretty sure that I had an exhaust leak from that gasket since the day I first installed the FrankenTurbo kit.

Now that all of that stuff was taken care of, the car feels like it's running smoother, and a bit quieter (no exhaust leaks). I like it!

Also went on a mini-quest to find out about FT-specific tunes for the AEB. Turns out Unitronics does NOT offer one (would be ~$840), but C2 Motorsports does ($600). If I can get another spare ECU then I just might send that one in to get flashed.

EDIT: ordered a stock used ECU today through Ebay for only $80 shipped! When it arrives I'll hook it up to make sure it works, then prep it to ship to C2 Motorsports to be flashed with their FrankenTurbo-specific tune (440cc injectors, 3in. MAF).