The past couple of days I've notice a issue... I'll be in 3rd gear at WOT around 3500-4000 RPM and it's like I loose 50% of my power and the car shutters for a few seconds.. and then all goes back to normal while the RPM climb past 4500. Now this happen a few times only in 3rd gear so I'm thinking this must have something to do with the tranny. A day later I'm in 2nd gear at WOT and it does the same thing but now I get the flashing CEL which we all know is not good... Here's the problem, I get the flashing CEL but there is no error code recorded. So I pull over turn off the car and put the car in the stock chip mode since I have the APR software. I turn the car on the CEL is not flashing nor on at all. I go in to WOT and clearly do not have the power I would have with the chip enabled but I don't have any power lost or shuttering like before.

After talking to a friend of my that's a mechanic he thinks this has something to do with fuel delivery. I can say is not the fuel filter because I replace it 2 months ago. I always use Chevron 92 octane fuel. I also replaced the air intake filter and spark plugs around 2 months ago. One month ago I put in a new RS4 clutch with a new OEM flywheel.

So my only thoughts is I got a clogged injector, maybe a vacuum leak, or possible bad turbo.

Any of you got any thoughts on my situation?

 

I just found a post on VWVortex 2.7t forums about the EGT sensor causing issues like this. Anyone else run into this?

 

A flashing CEL means you are misfiring. Scan it with VAG-COM and see if there is anything in there. Check your spark plugs also. Possibly your ICM or you have a bad coil pack/s.

Josh

 

Prolly your EGT(s).

You say you ran your VAG and found nothing? It could be intermittent (which it sounds like it is) but there is a code for intermittent EGT failures. I can get mine to routinely throw a code by wrapping the RPM up around the 4k range and causing the bucking/boost cutting. The code will usually throw then. Drive it a bit more and see if you can get the code to come up. Then have fun blowing $200+ for a SINGLE sensor.

 

I'm going to check my spark plugs this weekend but I doubt that is the problem since I just installed Denso Iridium Spark Plugs back in June. Maybe I didn't fully tighten one. I've never heard of the term "ICM" what is that and what would I check?

As for the EGT sensors.. is there one of those sensor you want to replace in pairs? And where are the located?

 

you dont have to, but it is suggested. they are right behind the intake...one per bank. they have a shinny metalic wire going to each.

 

The passenger side is pretty easy. Look underneath the MAF and back toward the fire wall a bit. The EGT is nice and visible, it sits just in front of the oxygen sensor. The other side of it plugs in toward the back of the y-pipe -- follow the metallic-looking wire.

The driver's side is a major ***** to replace. You have to jack up the car and remove the belly pan to access it. It enters the turbo housing from the side closest to the engine. It's a pain in the *** because there is no room to work. I ended up accessing mine from the top of the engine which turned out to be way easier. If you want to hear more on this, let me know and I'll post the steps that I went through.

ICM is ignition control module. If it's going bad, it would most likely throw a code for random multiple misfires.

 

Also, you posted a while back about your engine idling rough. Does your tach bounce a little bit between 500 and 1200 or so RPM intermittently?

What turned out to be the problem?

 

+1 on the EGT.... it's a somewhat common problem on those cars and it causes an intermitent boost leak/cut

 

Well I am only misfiring on cylinder 1. I just swapped my coilpack from another cylinder to see if the misfire follows to that new cylinder. I'm going to get my car re-scan tonight to see if it did or not. I'm hoping that this is just a bad coilpack...