Audi A3The Audi A3 offers cutting edge engineering, performance, and luxury in one affordable package.
Welcome to Audi Forums!
Welcome to Audi Forums,
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
I was driving today and then the CEL came on. It was solid, not flashing. After I got home, I started the car again, put it D, heard some weird noise either from the exhaust or the engine. Drove for like 2 feet and then it just shuts off. I try starting it again, but it will not start anymore. Waited 20 minutes, then it will start but again it will shut off again.
Any idea what the problem is?
I have APR stg 2, APR exhaust, evoms intake.
This ad is not displayed to registered and logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on Audi Forums!
Went to dealer today. The service advisor said it maybe the bypass check valve (forgot exactly what it was called) and the thrust sensor. They said they needed to look at it closely but it won't be covered under warantee because its caused by aftermarket parts. If it is indeed the bypass check valve (?) and the thrust sensor, he said the costs including labor would be in the mid 500s.
Now I have to decide if I want to proceed to let the dealer fix it or take it to an audi mechanic shop? What do you guys think?
Also, is thrust sensor and Mass airflow sensor? bypass check valve = diverter valve?
That sucks. Personally, I wouldn't pay for "maybe". I would tell them that I would pay to fix the problem, but I'm not paying for you to start replacing parts until you fix the problem.
So is your car driveable now??? Maybe our mechanic Dave can tell you which parts need replacing? It can't be hard to replace the parts if you know which one's you'll be needing.
Car is not driveable per the service advisor. I mean I wouldn't drive it either knowing that it can stall/shut off any moment.
The dealer states that they can't inspect any further because its caused by aftermarket parts. For them to go further, I will probably have to pay them a fee to do so.
I think I will ask them on Monday for the codes being thrown (forgot to ask today). I will probably ask them to do a deeper inspection to look for the problem and fix it. Like you said, I wouldn't want to go to the dealer several times to fix a problem.
If you do have the dealer fix it, make sure you have them give you a complete explanation of just how exactly your parts caused this particular failure. If they can't pursue them for reimbursement under warranty. What a bunch of BS.
Agreed. If they can't explain how your parts caused the failure, then they should pay for the repairs. Problem is that they have muchbetter lawyers than you, but I would stand firm on this line and see where it gets you.
Checking selector mechanism t It should not be possible to operate the starter while the selector lever is in position “S”, “D” or “R” or in the tiptronic position. t When travelling at speeds above 5 km/h and shifting into selector lever position “N”, the solenoid for the selector lever lock must not engage and block the selector lever. The selector lever can be shifted into a driving gear. t When travelling at speeds below 5 km/h (almost stationary) and shifting into selector lever position “N”, the solenoid for the selector lever lock should only engage after about 1 second. Selector lever cannot be shifted out of “N” position until brake pedal is depressed. Selector lever in “P” position, button on selector lever pressed in and ignition switched on: l Brake pedal not depressed: When button is pressed in, selector lever is locked and cannot be shifted out of “P” position. Solenoid for selector lever lock blocks selector lever. l Brake pedal depressed: Solenoid for selector lever lock releases selector lever. It is possible to shift into a driving gear. Shift selector lever slowly from “P” position through “R, N, D and S” and check whether the display in the dash panel insert shows the correct selector lever position in each case. Selector lever in “N” position, button on selector lever pressed in and ignition switched on: l Brake pedal not depressed: Selector lever is locked and cannot be shifted out of “N”position. Solenoid for selector lever lock blocks selector lever. l Brake pedal depressed: Solenoid for selector lever lock releases selector lever. It is possible to shift into a driving gear. Note[/align] When brake pedal is depressed, it is also possible to shift from “N” to “D” position without pressing the button on the selector lever. However, to shift from “N” to “R” you do have to additionally press the button on the selector lever. Selector lever in “D” position, ignition switched on: The selector lever is locked and cannot be shifted from “D” to “S” position. l Press button on selector lever: The selector lever is released and can be shifted from “D” to “S” position. Selector lever in “D” position, ignition and lights switched on: l Shift selector lever into tiptronic gate: The illuminated “D” symbol in the selector lever position indicator should go out and the “+” and “-” symbols should light up. The selector lever position indicator in the dash panel insert should switch from “PRNDS” to “654321” when the selector lever is shifted into the tiptronic gate. l Move the selector lever in the tiptronic gate to “+” and “-”. When you move the selector lever to “+” or “–”, the display “654321” in the instrument cluster should move one gear up or down accordingly.
Engine or DSG went out?
