This will be my first time replacing cv boots on my 91 80Q (or actually any car)and was looking for some pointers. Any step by step instructions would be great, or even just some general help. I know I need to buy the book on my car, but I just dont have the cash right now. [image][/image]
Posts: 758
Joined: 3/9/2004 From: Swamplands of NJ Status: offline
I have never done the job on 80 but it should be straightforward. You will need some tools: Socket to remove the axle nut on the hub and serrated (12 point) socket for removing the six bolts on the inner CV joint. Don't use an Allen (hex) wrench you will only f*** it up! I have seen too many of these bolts striped. A 1/2' breaker bar is a must a 3/4" is even better. The inner CV bolts can be a real PITA, there is always one that refuses to budge, if you are lucky! You will also need a torque wrench to snug it all down.
My tip don't buy a reman CV joint too much of gamble, clean, regrease and a new boot is better. Unless the CV is totally shot or makes a clicking noise when going into a turn. I also prefer Lubro Moly grease never failed on me which is more than I can say for the stuff that comes with the CV Boot Kit.
Posts: 758
Joined: 3/9/2004 From: Swamplands of NJ Status: offline
Lobro also makes excellent CV joint lube and I have had good results with it as well. Lobro is a CV joint manufacturer for Audi, VW, SAAB, BMW, etc and make good repair kits. The boots also last longer, some other stuff I used S@#K$ and fell apart after just 2 years.
Posts: 758
Joined: 3/9/2004 From: Swamplands of NJ Status: offline
You should be able to find one of these serrated sockets at major auto parts stores like Pep Boys, Napa, etc. Many independent shops sell them as well. Lisle and KD-Tools make them. Make sure you thoroughly clean out the socket head as they accumulate a lot of dirt over the years. You want that socket to go in all the way and not angled, they are very tight. I found that an impact gun works a lot better.
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Replacing the CV Boots on my Audi 80 - 
