I am a perspective 1990 audi 100 buyer and I would like all of your advice. (also a newbie to the site) I've read and researched what I can on these vehicles and would like some opinions. I have the opportunity to buy a 1990 audi 100 with 125K miles, one owner. Car seems to be in mint condition. All maintenance was kept up with "Everything was totally kept up, including new brakes, exhaust, brakes, battery, tires, tune up (spark plugs, wire, distributor cap), timing belt, water pump, etc." I've seen many pictures and will be test driving tonight/tomorrow. The front struts will need to be replaced, and a/c will need the freon to be refilled. The man is asking $2,200. I'd like any information on what I can expect to be replaced or any problems that will likely to occur with a 15 year old audi w/125k miles. Also, what sort of price range should I look to offer. I greatly appreciate any advice/information you all can offer.
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Joined: 3/9/2004 From: Swamplands of NJ Status: offline
Overall these cars hold up rather well but at 15 years of age many things could and will go wrong. I would check the cooling system as this is prone to problems especially the heater core. The AC sometimes doesn't work because of electrical problems with control unit and various components. If the compressor is "shot", or you have a leak in the condenser, it could be a costly repair. The dash lights and gauges have a tendency to work intermittently due to oxidized connectors. As for the price that depends on the options and if all the repairs are documented with receipts, then $2200 is OK, otherwise I would shoot for $1500.
Let me post the original email from seller plus a couple of pictures:
The car is in really terrific shape inside and out. The paint shines with no rust and the interior is very clean and like new. The car has been in the family since new and always maintained. Everything was totally kept up, including new brakes, exhaust, brakes, battery, tires, tune up (spark plugs, wire, distributor cap), timing belt, water pump, etc. So, every maintenance item has been kept up with. There are no leaks. The front right shocks are beginning to wear with the front right making a knocking sound. I brought it to 2 mechanics and they both said that they shocks are safe and sound now and can be driven for some time. Obviously, since they are knocking they will have to be replaced at some point. The only other thing with the car is that the AC has run out of freon. The system (compressor, etc) works. It just ran out of freon in the middle of summer, but since i was using it as a weekend beach car, I didn't bother refilling it (cost of freon is $50 - $75 depending on how much is needed).
Posts: 758
Joined: 3/9/2004 From: Swamplands of NJ Status: offline
Pearl white, my favorite color! The driver’s seat picture alone seems to make the car worth the $2200. I find it amazing that the seat fabric is still looks new. Also the cargo net on the back of the front seats is not stretched or ripped and the trim holding it is not broken. It does look clean and well maintained. Do you know if the transmission was serviced? Also the fact that it is low on Freon doesn't mean much if there is a serious leak it will all leak out after a recharge. Audi AC parts are very expensive. If you do get the car it might be a good idea to convert it to R134.
OK, what type of transmission work do you speak of? Basic tranny fluid change? Not really concerned with the A/C, but i'll check that out. I'm also confused on converting it to R134, is that inregards to the transmission? Is this something that is expensive/hard to do? I have a friend that drove a 92 100 until last year. He'll be able to do the majority of the work. Cost is parts + case of beer each time. Again, I appreciate the responses and if all goes well on the test drive look forward to being an audi owner and forum member!
Posts: 758
Joined: 3/9/2004 From: Swamplands of NJ Status: offline
Transmission work would be major overhaul or rebuild. I am not a big fan of automatic transmissions especially if they are over 100K. It can go another 100K or 1K that is one thing you will never know.
R134 is a type of refrigerant used instead of the old and discontinued R12. The conversion should be quite simple and easy to do.
"Cost is parts + case of beer each time." This could be a lot of beer! Any old car can nickel and dime you to death and an Audi is no exception.
Try to get the price down, but buy the car. The Pearl White paint is a 400 buck option.
The front shocks are a buy of the cartridges, a crank of the cap at the top of the strut, a pull out and drop in of the new cartridge. Home free. About 30 bucks each, if you shop. Just mark the original location of the mounting plate to get the alignment back in the ballpark. Kibi and the like, forget that, they are expensive, but all the readers here think all the effort is good for the price.
Where is the car? If the head liner is intact, and the AM on the radio works, and it is anywhere near me, I'll go and bid against you. I am in SW PA.
The trannies last forever, or they fail right now. OR is right, in that. A very easy tranny to rebuild, if you can do any work yourself. Get a book, except there IS no book for that model except the Bentley's manual, basically a civilian copy of the factory manual, at approx 200 bucks.
gmatov - thanks for the response! you are definitely making me feel much miore comfortable about buyign the car. i think i'm going to look at it tonight. i'm no where near you, but i will no announce where i'm located so there will be no bidding up :)
headliner you ask? i'll attach one more picture to see what you think..
I'd buy the sum'bitch for an intact headliner alone, don't think I have seen one on a pre'90 that was still stuck up, hell, my '90 is falling down around me.
Don't tell me, then, where it is, but if you decide not to get it, and it's within 500 miles, give me first crack.
Cheers,
George
BTW, if you, or your buddies, for a case of beer, can do tranny work, and it is not super difficult, a complete rebuild kit, which I used to buy for 125 bucks, now, according to a local mech, is now 175 or 185. That is not cheap, but still it is not all that much. Please DO have the torque converter flushed, as if there is ANY grit in the system, it will come back to haunt you. I know that from experience.
I forgot to ask, does the AM work on the radio? All I listen to is talk radio, and none of mine do, nor the 200 I was considering buying.
I dont' know much about cars. My buddy owned a 91 or 92 100 for years and did all the work himself. He'll likely be able to rebuild the tranny. THis something I should do right away or hold off on. SHould I flush the torque converter right away or hold off until the tranny rebuild.
I still have not seen the car in person, and as of last night its still available. If AM isn't working why wouldn't you just switch the radio out? Or are you an audi enthusiest "only stock throughout" :) I checked from Antis, PA to where I am. 476 miles. I'll let you know if this doesn't work out.
gmatov - I really appreciate your feedback. Thanks!
It's not the radio, itself, it's the antenna on the rear window, like the defroster wires, that are the problem.
My older Audis all had retractible aerials.. I'd hate to punch a hole in the rear quarter and put an aerial there. Might have to.
My AM is perfect with ignition of, can't get anything with the engine running. I wanted to change the ignition wires to try to cure it, my mech said that I was running perfectly, wires could not be bad, sending out EMF to interfere.
I have no prob with changing it out, would not mind having a CD player, just if I still can't get AM, I will have to keep listening to the asses on the talk show who still swear that GW Bush is the reincarnated God. The only talk radio I can get is all them assholes, Hannity, Savage, Lush Bimbo, etc.
475 miles, I could handle that. A tank of gas, each way.
Flushing the converter is a toss up. Someone else mentioned that they had a power flush done, still have a problem with shifting. I'm glad to hear that, as I was seriously considering spending 80 bucks to flush mine, as I have a shift into reverse hesitation, sometimes have to goose it to go into reverse, then it slams in. I don't like that. Must correct, one way or the other. Fluid change first, clean the valve body next.
Posts: 758
Joined: 3/9/2004 From: Swamplands of NJ Status: offline
One mechanic told me that flushing the converter is not worth it. If enough crud is in there, the impellers and bushings are going to be shot anyway. Your best bet is getting a remanufactured one from a reputable place. You can actually drill and tap 1/8 or 1/16 NPT hole and install a brass drain plug but you will have to rebalance the torque converter. The drain plug has to be in a place where it will not interfere with the impellers, the housing or reduce efficiency and still be easily accessible.
< Message edited by 0fframp -- 10/7/2005 10:58:40 AM >
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1990 audi 100 to buy or not to buy - 
RE: 1990 audi 100 to buy or not to buy - 
