Posts: 1561
Joined: 8/24/2005 From: Brooklyn, NY Status: offline
I have sirrious trouble, My doors wont open, only drivers side. If I open manually, the system locks. I disasembled yesturday my drivers side door and found out if you close it the pump starts to vacuem but when you open it does nothing. Also on the connector, wires 1 and 2 are only ones that are actually working. wires 1 and 3 are minus and plus. I really need help on that, tnx.
Posts: 758
Joined: 3/9/2004 From: Swamplands of NJ Status: offline
If it is the same pump that I had on my 4K then the controller and/or relay should be in the pump housing. You should be able to take it apart and see what's going on. It could be as simple as cleaning the oxidized relay contacts.
Posts: 1561
Joined: 8/24/2005 From: Brooklyn, NY Status: offline
yes it is, I thing. BUT the problem is that I CANNOT open the trunk becouse the lock is screwed. Next question is, If I send a compresed air into the system, will it open the locks.
Once upon a time I had the same problem, I had taken my daughter to college 700 miles away, trunk lid would not open to offload her stuff.
Went to a gas station, no such thing now, I am aware, detached a line, applied line pressure to it, found the leak near the right rear door jamb, disconnected the line, applied the station's line pressure to it, opened the trunk.
The tubing is nylon, will sustain way higher pressure than you might think.
I do not know if Kakarot's system is the same as on an old car of mine, but on that one, I pulled the pump, gave it to one of our electronics people, he found a blown diode, replaced it. I re-installed, drove home, the locks went up and down all the way home. Next day I gave it back to him, he couldn't believe 2 diodes blew at the same time, replaced the second diode, worked great till I got rid of the car.
In this instance, it could be a leak in one of the lines, WILL lock, will NOT unlock, for leak in the other side. OR, it could be the pump, a blown diode on the UNLOCK half of the pump. They are current sensing diodes, or the circuitry senses the current.
Cheers,
George
"Will pop the servos off the hoses". No way. It is a bitch to pull those hoses loose. Damned tight. 1/8 inch nylon, but damned tight.
Posts: 758
Joined: 3/9/2004 From: Swamplands of NJ Status: offline
Often people don’t know how much pressure to apply and give it too much, causing more problems. The servo needs very little pressure to work. Pulling the hoses off by hand is harder as you pull on the rubber the hose stretches and the diameters gets smaller, grabbing even tighter. Applying air pressure causes the rubber to expend more than the nylon hoses. While I have not tried it but if you put 100-150psi the nylon hoses will hold but the rubber fittings will not. The rubber diaphragm in the pump is thin (took one apart) and servos might be just as thin.
I tend to be more cautious but if you want to have it your way put a stick of dynamite and that will surely open the trunk!
The nylon will hold to at least 200 psi, true, but the nylon does age, and it does crack. That is a given.
And, when you put pressure into that line, it will leak. But, when you switch over the flapper valve in the pump, it is now producing vaccuum in that line, so it sucks the crack closed, operates the openers. One way or the other. The actuators have one connector, vaccuum closes, pressure opens.
In Kakarot's case, I THINK he has one blown diode, if no leaks, possibly both. Pull it and get someone other than Audi to check it. Probably less than 20 bucks to do it. Hell, do it yourself.
Did I mention that my break was at the right rear door sill?
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