I got my 98 Audi A6 2.8L for a month now, and I been fixing alot of things on it.
up to now, I got myself a Vag-Com (still don't know how to de-activate it) (I got the code, but from the problem, the "de-activate" buttom is grey out for some reason, no clue), and the Bently Manual already.

I replaced the Fuel Filter, Air Filter, all spark wires, all spark plugs, coolant temp sensor, MAF Sensor, and sent in and got the ABS Module fixed. I got all my check engine light and ABS/Brake light off the dash now.

But I am still having some problem with one thing, and this is the major thing so far!
I need to figure out WHY my Transmission is shifting badly.
Significantly noticable between 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th gear. and between shift from 3rd to 4th gear is the worst. it will neutral for a second with RPM shoots up for about 300-800RPM (depend on how much I stepped on the throttle) then when it engage in gear, either kinda smoothly (coz I didn't step too much into the throttle) or it will CHOKE BADLY (feel like a rear ended type feeling)

To me, I came up with a few theories, and I have no clue what or where to look at to fix it so far.
1) Trannsmission is bad, so it takes super long to shift between gears (but it won't happen if I drive like grandma)
2) Engine somehow don't konw I am shifting gear, so when it shift gear, it just keep reving up the RPM.

What else? I am lost guys!

Can someone please help me on the Transmission having bad shifting issues!

I need help on that guys!
No Check engine light, no faulty code at all.
What's up? Thanks all again!
Gil

I just gotta ask, Is it an Automatic?

I am torn, you speak as though you do the shifting, but then you also seem to imply that it is an automatic transmission.

Either way, I would say clutch problem. On a stick it would be easy to fix on auto, not so much. And, 300-800 is kind of an odd range of numbers, I would bow down and thank the man who made my car idle at 300 let alone drop to 300 when it shifts (I got an Auto). Oh that is one of the things that leads me to believe it is stick. But if you feel like you are slipping and then biting, your clutch is gone. Another fun thing to try is really flooring it when you know you are solid in a gear and if your RPMs shoot up but you are not accelerating in conjunction with that flooring it, you are slipping.

Man, I hope someone GAVE you that car, cause it sure sounds like it's got a lot of problems. Good Luck!

It's an Automatic, sorry for the confusion.
When I say it is 300-800RPM. sorry I don't mean it goes down to 300-800RPM. but it will SHOOTS up 300-800RPM on top of what I am current are at.
So it's like, when it shifts, the car will put into neutral for like half a second to a second. and during that time frame, the engine RPM will shoots up, since the car is in neutral for a second (no more acceleration power at all) then it engage into gear. and since it's in such a HIGHER RPM, the car will kinda like CHOKE.

The steps are like the following:
Accelerating -- shift from 3rd to 4th gear (auto) -- neutral/no power (deccelerate if uphill) -- RPM goes up (if my feet keep on throttle) -- gear engage to 4th gear -- accelerate hard since RPM is higher

Help!
Gil

First thing I would do..... Flush your transmission fluid and get some fresh stuff in there. Have you check the fluid level?

I know what you are talking about on the shifting. I experience the same thing every now and then. Flushing my transmission fluid is the next maintenance item on my list.

the hesitation in shifting sunds like low fluid level. have a tranny service done.

I will do a tranny fluid change this weekend

Do I HAVE to use the OEM Audi Tranny fluid ???
Or can I get those Mobil Full Synthetic Tranny fluid? Any help will be appreciated!!

Also if I just take the oil pan off, I will only drain like 4-5L of tranny fluid out. how to I flush the rest out?
Thanks alot!
Gil

you wont get it all out unless you have a drain plug on the converted which you don't, if you get 4-5LTS out your doing well a drain and refill you only get out 2.6 to 3.0LTRS, you can use full synthetic of another brand thats your choice as long as its better than AUDI/VW spec which is dexron III

OK, so I can use any Tranny fluid as long as they are FULL SYNTHETIC fluid & Dextron III or above.

I know I need to make the Tranny to a certain temperature before I can completely fill it up, so I have to use the Vag-com, but where and how do I use the Vag-com to get the temperature of the Tranny?
Thanks.

Is it the Tiptronic? I thought these things were filled for life? I assume its not Tiptronic??

I would put the stuff Audi recommends into it, and it they don't put synthetic in, I would NOT replace it with synthetic. Oil level is not gonna really be affected by a few degrees of temperature, normally they say 'operating temperature', so that means take the car for a drive. When changing, you can make it slightly underfilled, warm up the car, and then top it up.

If these is a slipping problem, you will smell it in the oil, it will have a burnt smell. Burnt smell is very bad, means the fiber plates are worn, and thats a tranny rebuild/replacement.

Since the transmission is computer controlled, or at least the Tiptronic is, might be some sensor. When my throttle body boot when on my 2.7T, I swore the transmission seemed bad. But it was just causing the transmission to respond badly.

Yes it's Tiptronic, and it's automatic.
I thought it uses FULL SYNTHETIC fluid. and it must be at a SPECIFIC temperature.
using the vag-com ...

I am lost... I am going to change the fluid tonite. can someone shine some light on this . thanks alot!
Gil

the only fluid I was able to verify that could be used, Audi fluid from dealer(esso)
or Redline D4.

this is were I got the info to change mine






Links for Audi A6 Owners, C5 Platform, 1998-2004 (Frequently Asked Questions)

Here are some excerpts from the Haynes Manual for Automatic transaxles. Good luck.

Note 1: When the work is done at a dealership, the factory scan tool is used to read the transmission fluid temperature. To perform the job at home, you may need a cooking or darkroom thermometer that has a long probe, which you can insert in the level check hole to read the fluid temperature.

Note 2: The engine must be running when checking the fluid level and when adding fluid.

Note: Checking the fluid on these vehicles isn't easy. The transaxle is considered by the manufacturer to be a "sealed" unit, to which fluid doesn't need to be added unless a leak is evident. There is no conventional dipstick in the engine compartment, but rather a level inspection plug accessible only from below the transaxle. Make sure you have a new seal for the plug before you begin. If fluid does have to be added to an 01N transaxle, a new filler cap seal will be required too.

Transaxle fluid expands as it warms up, and the fluid check shoould only be performed at the specified temperature range of 95 to 113-degreees F. NOTE: The manufacturer states that a scan tool must be used to monitor the temperature range of the fluid. While this is certainly the best way, you can get a fairly accurate reading after driving the vehicle a shoret distance (starting with the drivetrain cold) - approximately one trip around the block or so. The transaxle pan shouold feel war to the touch, but not hot enough to cause pain.

I guess I question why you think a fluid change is necessary and why you think it will fix the issue. Unless the fluid level is incorrect, I can't see how changing the fluid will fix the shifting issue you have described.

I think you need to be looking for some sensor issue.

Do you know what kinda sensor I should be looking for?
the 5 or 6 sensors inside the Transmission Oil Pan?
Gil

Honestly, no idea which one it could be, or if its a sensor. How does the car perform when you shift the tiptronic? Is there still a lag?

Yes, even in Tiptronic, there is still Lag.
??

First I should tell you I'm pretty new to the world of automechanics so take my advice with that in mind.

Foot is right in that flushing/replacing/topping-off fluid isn't necessary unless it's low. That said, your car is a '98; I'm sure new fluid wouldn't hurt and would be relatively cheap way to completely eliminate that as a possible cause of your problems. Then again, it kind of looks like a pain-in-the-ass to change.

Did some quick searches in my Bentley manual for sensors and found the following information. You definitely require a VAG tool to test this stuff. I didn't post the procedures for testing, but if you get hold of a vag tool and need the procedures, let me know. I don't know exactly how these things work in relation to the transmission, but they came up when I did the search "transmission and sensor".

The first two pictures are related to the location of the Tranmission Control Module. The third picture is related to the valve body.

Location of automatic Transmission Control Module (TCM) -J217-
The control module is located in front of the right front seat under the carpet in the foot well.

Location: valve body

The valve body is bolted to the underside of the transmission housing inside the oil pan.
The Solenoid Valves -N88-, -N89-, -N90-, -N91-, -N92-, -N93- and -N94- are attached to the valve body. The solenoid valves -N91-, -N92-, -N93- and -N94- are also referred to as pressure control valves 1 (-N215-), 2 (-N216-), 3 (-N217-) and 4 (-N218-).

Removing and installing

Repair Manual, 5 Spd. Automatic Transmission 01V, Repair Group 38
There are two types of transmissions:

For transmissions with hydraulic regulation -E17-, the transmission input speed sensor (inductive sensor ) is secured to the underside of the valve body.
For transmissions with hydraulic regulation -E18/2-, the transmission input speed sensor (camshaft position sensor ) is secured behind valve body at transmission housing.



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