If you found my last post and responded, thank you, and please follow up again!
I can't seem to find my posts, nor can I find any search function in the #$%@# forum, so I'm forced to try this again.....
I just acquired a 98 Cabriolet and I can't get into the trunk. The button starts vertical, and I can turn it clockwise to be horizontal, and turning it slightly past arms the anti-theft. Turning it counter-clockwise back to vertical, with some added counter-clockwise pressure will disarm the anti-theft.
However, at no point in all this does pushing the button release the trunk! The local audi dealer suggested taht there was a small plastic rod that had come loose from the lock. I had seen a post somewhere else that suggested that it might be the convertible top interlock, as a 'microswitch' in the top mechanism restricts trunk opening while the top is in motion.
Do either of these make sense to anyone? In the absence of any definitive answer, is there a way to get the trunk open by going in the back seat? I can't seem to get that open either.
Not sure if you figured it out yet, but I'll offer what little I know.
It is true that the trunk will not open if the car "thinks" you are putting the top up or down. There is an interlock that prevents the trunk from opening during that time beacuse there would be mechanical interference between the boot and the trunk lid.
First of all, is the "Top" dash light on (I think it flashes)? If so, then the car "thinks" that the top is not either fully up or fully down. Try running it through a full cycle, making certian that the boot lid is closing down all the way properly (you should hear a click on each side). Try pushing down hard on each side of the boot lid just to make sure.
If that doesn't take care of it, try this. With the engine running, open the top partially so that the rear of the top folds forward and the boot lid pops up. This should allow you to see the top mechanism pretty well. If you look close, you should be able to see very small contact switches in the hinge area. I can't remember if there is any adjustment on these or not, but I'm pretty sure there is. You'll probably need a small jewler's flat blade screwdriver to adjust it. Also try just pushing on the switch with your finger or a screwdriver - you should be able to hear a faint click when the contacts open or close. I don't know if these are easily removable, but if they are, you could also try verifying their proper operation with an ohm meter.
I believe there is also a mercury-style position switch located on the underside of the trunk lid (driver's side, closer to the rear seat edge) that is part of the interlock system.
If none of this works, or you're not comfortable trying it yourself, the dealer should be able to connect to the car's computer and determine if all of the top switches/sensors are working properly.
As far as opening it through the back seat, I'm assuming you're talking about through the ski sack (there is no other opening behind the rear seat cushion). Either way, I don't think you could open the trunk that way because the mechanism on the underside of the trunk lid is beneath a cover that's screwed on.
If the top interlock is not the problem, it could indeed be that the actuator rod has slipped off of the lock mechanism. I have no clue how you would get it open in that case.
One last thing you may want to look into once you get the trunk open is the wiring harness that goes from the body up into the trunk lid. There are about 8 wires or so that go along the hinge area on each side. These wires have to bend each time the trunk is opened and closed, and then tend to break over time and become intermittent. This can cause all sorts of strange electrical problems that you would never suspect would be related to the trunk. I had to cut away the plastic wrap that bound the wires together right at the bend location, and then I was able to see that every one of the 8 wires was broken! About a year later, I had trouble with the other side (which caused the car to be locked in Park), so I would just do them both right away. It is easy to just solder them back together yourself, and believe it or not, to have the harness replaced by the dealer will set you back about $2,000!!!
Good luck with everything. I hope something I said here helps.
Thanks for the info. There's no indication on the dash or anywhere else that the top is open or in process. I've run the top through its cycles a few times, and it doesn't seem to make any difference.
I looked through the hinges and didn't see the contact switch. I had picked up a diagram from the dealer, which showed the interlock switch on the driver's side hinge, but I couldn't find anything.
I had the car in to a local dealer who said nothing about hooking it up to a diagnostic computer, but brought out 2-3 of his techs, who all stood about scratching their heads until one suggested that it was the plastic pins inside the lock mechanism that could be broken off. but the way the lock mechanism behaves, it doesn't seem like a mechanical failure. I'm inclined to believe the interlock logic.
Someone elsewhere had suggested that there's an 'emergency entry' procedure to get the trunk open, and that once completed, the dealer would have to 'reset' it. I'd be open to that, but I don't know anything more about it that the term.
This is making me nuts. The car is nearly perfect except for this, but without access to a spare, I'm reluctant to have my family tooling around in it.
Someone had also suggested the bentley manual as a good source of information, so I guess I'll look into that, but I can't believe that no one else has ever had this same problem!
It's been a few weeks since I've had the opportunity to deal with this, but I got back to it today, and have a few more insights.
The first is that after talking with three Audi dealers, it's very clear that they have many uninformed opinions, but no solutions.
With the top up or down, the trunk lock mechanism will turn clockwise and counterclockwise and will are and disarm the locks.
I can also hear the lock mechanism at the center of the trunk working when I use the remote to lock all and unlock all.
So, I don't think it's the key, and I don't think it's the roof interlock.
Most likely, it's the interlock mechanism that's disconnected. I had cut out the ski boot to see if I could get to the back trunk panel or a seat release (fat chance) and I found that the previous owner had jammed the trunk full of wicker baskets. I also can see that the back panel is enclosed, and I can't see the mechanism.
My question to you all..... If I bash out the taillight lens or somehow remove the lock itself, is that going to get access to anything that would enable me to pop the trunk lid?
I thought about going to a locksmith, and I might end up doing that, but if it's the internal linkage, I'm afraid I'll just be wasting his time and my money. Still, in the absence of anything else, I'll be giving that a whirl.
Posts: 854
Joined: 3/1/2006 From: Black Mountain, NC Status: offline
is there a possibility that the "junk" in the trunk is messing with the lock or in any other way preventing the opening of the trunk ... and how abaout if you turn the key and then try to push it inwards the whole lock barrell ( hte thingy where you stick the key in ) for the older cars the key hole also functions as a button .. turn the key to unlock then push inwards with the turned key then it pops open ... don't relly know what else to tell you crow bar or an angle grinder and then body shop
I think the junk that was loaded in the trunk did affect something, but I've been able to move it around, so I don't think that it's in the way of anything - more likely it knocked something loose.
I think I've just been too focused on finding a 'gentle' solution. It's time to think about how to do the least damage.... I'm not well versed in breaking & entering, but by this time next week I will be.
You made me curious. I looked in my '95 Cab trunk and on the Bentley's diagram. First, I would try opening the lock again and at the same time press down on the trunk lid. I have had the latch post (its called the striker plate) have loose attach screws and was lucky that I did not experience the same problem you have. Maybe the striker plate has moved and jammed the mechanism. Further, the lock is mounted on two posts that are only accessable from inside the lid with the interior cover removed. If the rod is disconnected at the lock, maybe drilling out the lock will help if you can get hold of the rod. I don't believe breaking the tail light will help at all as you would still have to get through the lock. If the rod is off at the latch, doing that damage would be for naught. However, since you cut out the ski bag, I have a plan. There are two 10mm nuts that hold the latch to the lid. If you fashon one really long socket extension, you could go through the ski bag area and remove those two nuts. That would free the lock from the lid but it still would be locked to the striker plate and possibly attached to the rod. I think you would get enough movement to get it open. I'd take the back seat cushion and back rest out for more room, but you need to know where the screws holding those in are located. This is a pain, but worth the try for minimal damage. Fashioning the extension will be a trick. Get the dealer to give you a view of the trunk latch so you know what you are after. Best of luck.
I was replacing a center brake light bulb today and had the liner out. Breaking the right rear tail light WILL give access to the lock rod. I had erroneously thought there was sheet metal all across the back of the trunk lid.
First, my thanks to all who answered. Hubturn, your response in particular made this happen.
That, and a visit to another Audi Dealer. This last visit really set me off. Three dealers, none of whom had a clue. This last one admitted (once the car was in their shop) that they didn't know how to get in. They didn't even know how to put the top down....here's a hint guys - in the owner's manual it tells you to set the parking brake.....
Their 'diagnosis' was to charge $700 to bash out the back end, although they still didn't know what they were going to do. Cost me $110 for a non-diagnosis.
Also talked to a locksmith, who said he could get the lock out, but didn't know where we would go from there. At least he was honest and didn't charge me for something he couldn't do.
So....... After reading hubturn's note, ordered a new taillight lens from drivewire.com. Ordered a 3-day subscription to Bentley's and printed out the trunk & taillight diagrams. Used a drill&holesaw, hammer, keyhole saw, hammer, sidecutters, hammer, prybar and a hammer to open up the taillight where the manual showed no panels behind it.
Removed the 8mm screw mounts while slicing my hands to pieces on the broken plastic. Separated the lock mechanism from the lens. lightly pulled on the connecting rod. Opened the trunk. (Cheers from the gallery.....) Well, the dog thought it was cool. These last 4 sentences took almost 2 hours.
The culprit........ There is a electric piston connected to the lock mechanism that is used for the central locking system. If this piston doesn't engage, then all the turning in the world won't rotate the back plate of the lock into position to pivot the other lever that opens the trunk.
The second lever - the one that really opens the trunk - was disconnected, but only because the force of trying to work this against the other rod had pulled the threaded section out of the plastic sleeve it goes into.
Solution.... No more central locking on the trunk. Disconnected the central lock piston, assembled everything else, tested the whole thing about 50 times before I really closed the trunk. It locks, it opens, it's perfect - 'cept no central locking, which I don't care about anyway.
Cost..... $150 for the lens, $20 for Bentley's, and $2 for a new box of band-aids.
Value.... In addition to having a working trunk, I learned a whoole lot about the top/trunk interlock, the trunk mechanism, and the worthlessness of Audi Service departments. Give me the good people of this forum, Bentley's, and a hammer, and I'll fix it myself.
Glad the problem is solved, I am posting because I had the same problem and there is another solution which might be of benefit to someone in the future.
I ordered a new trunk lock assy (don't remember but not much over $100). I then used a 1/2" titanium drill bit and drilled out the original lock. when I got far enough in, the trunk popped open.
2 small nuts, an actuator rod and a connector for the wiring was all it took to remove/replace. The new lock mechanism worked correctly with everything attached.
Printable Version
Cabriolet trunk - 
and have fun beating it into submission 
RE: Cabriolet trunk - 
