things you should look into first.

quick refrence

any car with or around 60K

1 timingbelt replacement at 60K & 120K
2 front suspention tie rods control arms
3 check o2's they tend to start going bad and can effect performance
4 year 2000/2001 if you have a bosh MAF check and replace if needed. they start going bad but don't always fail. they just start reading wrong.

any car with 85+

1 check all above
2 replace fuel filter
3 check all vac hoses (this Is best done with prusure tester
4 check around the turbos around tis milage turbs seem to start to show sings of failure
5 check your temp sender and make sure you have a green one that is the up dated one
________________________________

this is a little more info about some of the above


Dose your car have a new timing belt?

this is one of the things that will destroy your motor if not checked. if the timing belt snaps you will do major damage to your motor

Your stock turbos will blow sooner or later. it is more of a matter of when not if

stock turbo is a Ko3
Ko4's are the replacment turbos they come from the RS4.
there are only 2 off the shelf turbos for the 2.7t that are OEM they are the 2 listed above

there are hybrid turbos available. a ko3 hybris is abviously not going to be as big as a ko4 hybrid
_________________________________
a chip is not going to make them blow but it isn't going to help.

A great way to extend the turbo life is to get Dp's. they will drop the exhaust temperature by 200 degs in some cases. not only that but they will alow the turbos to have less restriction and thus no work as hard to produce as much boost.

There is no reason not to get Dp's VAST performance sells tip and 6 speed Dp's for 400$

Also turn the boost down in the winter (if you have a MBC) or just completely disconect the turbos from the N75 and have them make less boost
________________________________

chips

chipping you car will be the best bang for you buck.
All chips increase boost to about the same levels. the only difference is the timing.
So don't believe that one chip over another will blow your turbos

the best chips are from the 3 companys that have been around from day one.


APR great chip smooth and fast

GIAC very aggressive on the timing and alows you to expand to a mbc and other mods without any adjustments

MTM this is a great file they fall in between the other 2 options. Don't seem to be as popular only due to not vary many distribution states

I IMHO would not sugest getting a chip from anyone else

________________________________

O2 sensors can go bad and so can the 2000/2001 bosh MAF check both every other oil change. if either are bad they will cause the car to run improper


Also check you deverter valves up grades are the 710N DV from the audi tt

get a prusure tester for you car and sest the system Twice a year this will tell you if you have any boost leaks

Get a vag com from ros-tec it is the best way to check codes and monitor the car

Bump

Thanks for the info!

This is great info. Might think about making this a sticky for the new people. Either waywho ever reads this and finds it help full should give it a


BUMP for great info and direction

good stuff

Great advice and tips twinturbomew.... I just bought an A6 last night and checked the car over with all your advice and it helped me fix various problems I was having. Moderators this post should be a sticky.......Lots of knowledge and great advice.

thanks for the tips- realize this is an old posting ... but have an 03 2.7 T ... and a few problems.

1) there is a klonk sound from the front when i am braking .... could that be the control arms you mention should be checked?
2) there is a whining sound when i start up the engine ... just started 1 week ago ... sounds almost metal like ... is on for a bout 1 minute until the car is warm ... and then it goes away ...
3) general question - the battery indicator .... is 3/4 "full" is that normal? would have thought it should be in the middle?
4) Turbo indicator - needle never goes all the way up to the middle ... I would say approx. 45% .... do i not have full pressure in my turbo? could there be a leak? or is that normal?

thx in advance for your help!

Rasmus

I'm going to sticky this.

But IMHO, TB @ 60 is a little early. I'd say more in the 70-80kmi range.

Purchase a VAG-Com! If you don't want to spend the $250, purchase the eBay cable, then get the software for $100 from Ross-tech.
It's a MUST have for any Audi DIY!

thanks for the sticky 2K

oak

the clunk is most likely the control arms

the whine could be 2 things. one the secondary air injection comes on in the cold weather for a few minutes and then there could be turbo whine some 02 and up cars seem to do that.

the batt gauge should read about what you are decribing

the turbo indicator...... I am not sure what you are refering to. but if you d not have a CEL on the dash you should be just fine

Note to the new guys that read this.

If this post helped you Please give this post a bump to keep it current for the next fella that needs some direction and would like the info

BUMP

IMO, 60k is way early for the timing belt. The 2003 manual calls for 105k and I had mine done at 94k. Is there a risk - sure - but I think Audi would recommend a lower mileage if it was engineered for less.

Actually I tend to agree with the 60l service for max reliability. There are several people that have blown there T/B with less than 80k on the car. Audi has been flooded with complaints from people that have experienced a premature T/B failure that Audi now recommends that they get changed at 75k. So based on that there is a risk.

the old intervals
http://www.bentleypublishers.com/images//tech/audi/audi.2003.maintenance.sched.pdf

the new ones
http://www.bentleypublishers.com/images//tech/audi/audi.2004.maintenance.sched.pdf

all the motors have the same parts. Audi just decided to come clean

in the end its your car that is at risk so change the T/B when you feel like it. But for me I will be changing mine every 60k

It is for info like this that I would love for this to be a sticky for all the new people to see

Wow, I wish I had this info. when I first bought my car. Good info.

Couple questions about the updated maintenance schedule. First, I noticed they only have it indicated to rotate the tires at 5k and never again. I'll chalk that up to a misprint? I would plan to rotate every 5k and balance every 10k, and from what I hear I need to be sure the rotate is from front to back only since I have the quattro.

Second, does everyone agree that going 10k between oil changes is a good idea? I am running Mobil 1 full sythetic in my 2.7T (or will be as soon as I get my first oil change on Tuesday), but can I really stretch it to 10k between changes? I was thinking 5,000 or possibly 7,500 if I was doing a lot of highway driving, but 10k?

ORIGINAL: Costner
Couple questions about the updated maintenance schedule.Â* First, I noticed they only have it indicated to rotate the tires at 5k and never again.Â* I'll chalk that up to a misprint?Â* I would plan to rotate every 5k and balance every 10k, and from what I hear I need to be sure the rotate is from front to back only since I have the quattro.

Second, does everyone agree that going 10k between oil changes is a good idea?Â* I am running Mobil 1 full sythetic in my 2.7T (or will be as soon as I get my first oil change on Tuesday), but can I really stretch it to 10k between changes?Â* I was thinking 5,000 or possibly 7,500 if I was doing a lot of highway driving, but 10k?


Yea, rotate them when ever.

M1 is no longer a true synthetic, so change it every 5000-7500 max.

Mobil 1 isn't a full synthetic? The shop said the use Mobil oil and they would use a synthetic since I have the 2.7T but I never asked for additional detail and I really would prefer to use a full synthetic. However, by looking at the Mobile site, I came across this FAQ:

Is Mobil 1 with SuperSyn Technology a fully synthetic motor oil?

Yes, it is. To meet the demanding requirements of today's specifications (and our customers' expectations), Mobil 1 with SuperSyn uses high-performance fluids, including polyalphaolefins (PAOs), along with a proprietary system of additives. Each Mobil 1 with SuperSyn viscosity grade uses a unique combination of synthetic fluids and selected additives in order to tailor the viscosity grade to its specific application.

Now I see where they also have other Mobil 1 products that indicate the weight/viscosity such as "Mobil 1 5W-30" but it also said "Mobil 1 5W-30 is a high performance fully synthetic engine oil", so which ones aren't full synthetics?

Is Mobil 1 not as good as the marketing implies? Should I consider alternatives?

[quote]ORIGINAL: Costner
Mobil 1 isn't a full synthetic?Â* The shop said the use Mobil oil and they would use a synthetic since I have the 2.7T but I never asked for additional detail and I really would prefer to use a full synthetic.Â* However, by looking at the Mobile site, I came across this FAQ:
[quote]

Yup, it's not real full synthetic anymore. M1 sued Castrol a little while ago, over what a synth oil is, so they changed the definition. It's not called a syth, but only has Grp III oil in it, & not even one drop of PAO, Easter or GRP IV. It's a quality oil, but not a synthetic.

We have talked about this in great lengths before, if you do a little search, you will come up on the links, & oil analysis test.

Hey, I'm going to be getting an A6 2.7t here soon and I'm definetly going to be using this info when buying! Thanks! And I was wondering how often the turbos go out? Does it happen to them all? Thanks again!

RIDINHIGH -

Between this Forum and another Audi forum, I've seen posts claiming turbos have blown at 50-60k and others thatstill have their original turbos at 155k. Mine are original at 100k and I'm hoping they last a long, long time. I warm up the car before accelerating hard, let it cool down for a few miles after a high speed run, and change the oil (Mobil1 5W-30 or 5w-40) as close to 8k as I can. I'm no longer sure what a "real" synthetic motor oil is, but the original owner and I have used M1 since the car was new and it was required by DC for my Crossfire in order to maintain the warranty.

I just got a 2.7T S-line.

A great way to extend the turbo life is to get Dp's. they will drop the exhaust temperature by 200 degs in some cases. not only that but they will alow the turbos to have less restriction and thus no work as hard to produce as much boost.

There is no reason not to get Dp's VAST performance sells tip and 6 speed Dp's for 400$

What is a DP?

Never mind.

Thanks Muchly!
Printing this off.
Anybody have any tips on a good (and relatively cheap) Audi mechanic in the GTA?

BUMP. Thanks for the info, I'll be sure to use it when I go check out A6 tonight

Wow....what a very good read! I have some ?'s though.....

Who can recommend a good replacement brake pad? I have the 321mm assembly and not a single shop here sells anything other that the ones I have just put on. They Suck!!! they sqweek really bad after several attempts to do things to quiet them....they still squeal!

If not Mobil 1 then what is recommended? Now that my car has over 115k, original turbo's so far, should I change to a different grade than the 5W-30?

Where is the MAF? I am assuming it's the Mass Air Flow sensor but where is it? And what are DP's?

someone took a look at my car with a VAG*COM and that thing is very cool and worth the investment! I as going to get one soon.

I'm glad this post was madea sticky.

dp? is that DOWN PIPE ?? where can i get one a6 2.7t 02

bump....for sure. Yeah I am curious about reasonably price DPs as well. the ones from APR are a grand plus change....with two kids and a wife...thats not going to fly.[sm=smiley13.gif]

Bump. Go PHILLS!

The piggie Dp's are the best bang there is VAST Performance.com there have been several people that are in the 11's with piggie Dp's don't believe the hype. you have a 2.7L motor that is 1.3 X 2 and a 1.3l or one side of the V in the V6 dose not need more than 2.25 inch exhaust. The other companies are playing on people and there thought that bigger is better well for 1000 less my thought is that piggies are WAY better

I am having some problems with my 2004 A6 2.7T, I keep getting a engine coolant sensor high output error but my car isn't running hot. Also my car is starting to get sluggish and unreliable if i drive a while then stop at a gas station and shut it off when i come back somethimes it has a hard time starting.

What i've done that didn't help. Complete tuneup, airfilter, plugs, coils, regular oil changes, fuel filter.

The service tech at the dealership told me it might be the fuel pump but i don't want to spend 700 bucks to find out that he was wrong. Any suggestoins

If you've been running your car long and/or hard, let it idle for a minute before shutting it off. This effectively does the same thing as a turbo timer and extends the life of your turbo's extensively.

VAST dp's are $400 and just as good as the $1000-$2000 one's you'll buy from any other company.

What do you guys think about royal purple? I'm a maintenance whore so i do oil changes 3k-5k. And i always like to do it right, i've heard only good things about royal purple but haven't heard much from the audi community.

i am looking to buy a A6 2002 2.7 TURBO at 35,000 miles...is this car any good...am i going to run into problems? i had a 98 A6 2.8 AND the engine was gone at 190,000 but i repaired a lot during the time i had it...

The Vast Down pipes are as good as they get..I have seen several people with them and there dose not seem to be any issues. I have the V8 version on my car and I saw 15hp increase..that is on a V8 N/A car you should expect to see twice as much on a turbo car

First of all this thread is awesome! much thanks to twinturbomew and crew for your good questions and keeping this thread alive.

My question for you'all goes:

I am currently looking to purchase an A6 2.7T @90K. The cost of the maintenence is daunting...and the dealer is already changing the timing belt because of ticking noises.

I just want my car to drive reliably... i am not looking to chip-it and really just want to use it as a comfortable commuter car since i fit in it well and enjoy the interior. should i still look into piggies??? replacement turbos?? I have drastically changed my driving style to non aggressive and try to drive in a way that preserves the car.. the engine and breaks. I am talking to the mechanic and based on what i've read here should i still hit him with the following check-up list?see below...


Replace Timing Belt along with the belt tensioner, water pump, pullies(?)and serp belt.
Check/replace The Oxyegen Sensors
Check Front Suspension Tie Rods/Control Rods
Replace Fuel Filter
Check vacuum Hoses
Check Turbos for Signs of Failure – or replace turbos!!
Check Temp Sender for update (should be green)
Check cv Joints/boots
Check breaks and rotors
Check/replace The Oxyegen Sensors
Check Front Suspension Tie Rods/Control Rods
Replace Fuel Filter
Check vacuum Hoses
Check Turbos for Signs of Failure – or replace turbos!!
Check Temp Sender for update (should be green)
Check cv Joints/boots
Check breaks and rotors

Would what would you add? what would you remove!? this is alot of money for me to shell-out for a car that hasn't even left the lot.

Little help

Thanks!

Also the temp sender should be green what does that mean? My mechanic doesn’t know what I am talking about.

ORIGINAL: Teutonic2.7T

First of all this thread is awesome! much thanks to twinturbomew and crew for your good questions and keeping this thread alive.

My question for you'all goes:

I am currently looking to purchase an A6 2.7T @90K. The cost of the maintenence is daunting...and the dealer is already changing the timing belt because of ticking noises.

I just want my car to drive reliably... i am not looking to chip-it and really just want to use it as a comfortable commuter car since i fit in it well and enjoy the interior. should i still look into piggies??? replacement turbos?? I have drastically changed my driving style to non aggressive and try to drive in a way that preserves the car.. the engine and breaks. I am talking to the mechanic and based on what i've read here should i still hit him with the following check-up list?see below...


Replace Timing Belt along with the belt tensioner, water pump, pullies(?)and serp belt.
Check/replace The Oxyegen Sensors
Check Front Suspension Tie Rods/Control Rods
Replace Fuel Filter
Check vacuum Hoses
Check Turbos for Signs of Failure – or replace turbos!!
Check Temp Sender for update (should be green)
Check cv Joints/boots
Check breaks and rotors
Check/replace The Oxyegen Sensors
Check Front Suspension Tie Rods/Control Rods
Replace Fuel Filter
Check vacuum Hoses
Check Turbos for Signs of Failure – or replace turbos!!
Check Temp Sender for update (should be green)
Check cv Joints/boots
Check breaks and rotors


Would what would you add? what would you remove!? this is alot of money for me to shell-out for a car that hasn't even left the lot.

Little help

Thanks!




I bought my 01 a6 with 90k myself, the timing belt was changed at 80k. If i were you just have a mechanic look it over, and see what he says. Most of the things on your list should stand out to you, i wouldnt replace anything unless it needs replacing, since parts and labor add up quickly...I've been slowly changing things as they come up and theres been no major problems as long as you drive the car respectable like you plan to do.

yea, i presented the mech. with a list & he almost lost it!

but in the end everything worked out... i got the timing belt and assoc. parts replaced along with the water pump.. also the serp., rear breaks, fuel filter, oil change, spark plugs. things are going good so far... except the driver's seat switch stopped working....

also... all this chipping talk is begining to convinceme. if things go well i might consider it in the summer... not trying tobe a racer, but more hp onthe take-offwouldn't be a bad thing.

you will absolutly love the chip. I did the chip,DV's and gutted the pre cats and its night and day. When you need the power you have it on hand!!

yo krelly what part of CT are you in? im working in CT now so im around the way. where did you get the chip? wheredo you take your car for service?alsohow did you gut the pre cats?

i was gonna get the chip, DV's andget some piggies.... but don't know of a reliable shop to get them done.

Do those of you that take your vehicles in to a mechanic use an audi dealership or do you take it to aregular foreign car mechanic? I know of two mechanics, one near my house, and one near my wife's work that specialize in european cars (audi, bmw, saab, volvo, etc).

unless under Audi Warranty I NEVER go to Audi Dealerships. I use small indy shops with AUDI certified mechanics. PAS and GMP in Charlotte do all the work on my car.

Cool. Thanks! Now how do I go about finding other people from Houston to ask about local shops? I know, I know, fawkin noob!

Any Audi aftermarket shop or website
www.gmpperformance.com (http://www.gmpperformance.com)
www.gopar.com (http://www.gopar.com)
www.awetuning.com (http://www.awetuning.com)
www.ecstuning.com (http://www.ecstuning.com)

But I would save 1000-1200$ and get VAST Performance piggy pipes

Very helpful, thanks for the info! Here's a question that you probably have a quick answer to? Where is the battery in these cars. I'm a new owner of a used 02 Audi A6 3.0 Quattro and my car wouldn't start this morning. It's like 0 degrees here in WI go figure. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!

The battery is located in an access panel under the hood near the cowl (area at the bottom of the windshield). You should see a black panel with a picture of the battery on it with a + and -.

Hello

I noticed you have a couple of the mods I'm looking at doing in the very near future.

I wonder if you could let me know how they have worked out for you. And what you think of the other adds I'm hoping to do to my 2004 A6 2.7T ...

1) Giac ECU chip and the "tip chip"

2) Vast Phenolic intake manifold spacers

3) APR bi pipe and R1 Diverter valves

4) Vast ceramic coated exhaust manifolds (ported and polished)

5) Hotchkis anti sway bars (fr anf rr)

6) APR snub mount engine mounts


Any advice or ideas you can offer are greatly appreciated.

I purchased a 2003 Audi A6 2.7ta year ago with 54k miles. I am now at 73,000. For the performance of this car I have to say the reliablity is great but as any sport car it needs to be maintained. Simple things such as doing your oil every 5k miles and letting the turbo's warm up/cool down(wind down) are going to determine how long things last. If it's 15 out and your that impatient person who will pull out and rev to 3k without warming the car up, yeah your going to have issues. My car is currently in the shop to have both front hub bearings and driveshafts replaced, T/B & sensors, and a few other things for just under a G... I let a wheel bearing go and it took out a driveshaft so stupid things like this are what lead to bigger problems.

bump, very very good information. Just graduated school and bought my first audi 2004 2.7T. Look the car and will be busy with the work.

ORIGINAL: Teutonic2.7T

yo krelly what part of CT are you in? im working in CT now so im around the way. where did you get the chip? wheredo you take your car for service?alsohow did you gut the pre cats?

i was gonna get the chip, DV's andget some piggies.... but don't know of a reliable shop to get them done.


Im in madison, where are you working? I did the chip and DV's at excellerate in branford, i also bring it to him for service, actaully bringing it soon for cam seals. The guy who runs it knows his stuff and is very friendly.

another thing i found out...
If all of a sudden you found your brake lights stay on even when you have turned the car off and exited it, and you also experience loss of throttle irregularly.... you need to replace your brake light switch, a $4 part at the dealer and 5 minute repair.
However, they are fragile and finicky, so get 2 or 3 in case one doesn't work or break during install...

yea, gigi... thanks for putting that up! i freaked out when i heard about your lights staying on; yet another issue i am now prepared to deal with.

BUMP! Good info. I just bought an 03 A6 @ 40k and I have a good understanding of what to look for and also some upgrades. My "Speed Racer" days are over so Im just looking to keep my new-to-me ride clean and maintained, not looking for major performance upgrades.

Im planning VAST Dp's, APR chip, and also diverter valves (Any suggestions on what brand)

Im new to the Forums and I can see already there is a lot of info and suggestions.

welcome and congrats...
you can just get the n710 DVs from the Audi TT or get APR R1 or Hyperbosst...
Get an upgraded TBB like the Samco for reliability and olding boost

When (b/c it will happen :) ) your auxiliary water pump under the intake gives up and leaks, and you have to replace it, get NewSouth Intake gaskets/spacers ot the ones from VAST.

Make sure to do your TB/WP service at 70k

Gigi what is this water pump, mine is going, but what are the spacers and what do they do.

Air Intake Power Gasket for VW and Audi

PowerGasket™ gives you up to 5% more power from your engine by reducing the temperature of the incoming air to your engine. NewSouth Performance has designed an insulating gasket that radically reduces the heat transfer from the cylinder head to the intake manifold. This gives you cooler, denser air for more horsepower and performance from your engine. Made from a high performance polymer, PowerGasket™ conducts on average less than 1/500th of the heat of the steel gasket that it replaces. Your intake manifold will stay 30-50° F cooler and your incoming air will stay 20-30° F cooler. PowerGasket Plus™ is a composite material that has a significantly higher continuous operating temperature than the original PowerGasket and does not require the application of any extra sealant.
http://www.gmpperformance.com/CFJFiles/GMP/8392_b.jpg

http://www.gmpperformance.com/CFJFiles/GMP/8394.jpg

above are $75


VAST also makes these
http://vastperformance.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=29&osCsid=f35fcd296a2 8769a9f0bfafa794e0377

Thanks gigi! I'm going to start putting my shopping list together. I know better than to DIMyself everything so I need to find a good shop somewhere down here. Anyway Thanks for the tips!

BUMP. Great info. Im going to check all my hoses and vac today due to my CEL. o2 and control arms as well. Have a bit of shaking that needs to be checked out. Thanks

Just found out Vast also makes 02 sensors for about 1/2 of the cost at the dealer. Deffinitly a good thing for us

many different places but I would just get VAST piggies for about $350.

sick info, thanks for this. it helps alot of people that don't know $#!t obout their new audi........perfect for me!

These are for the S4, but a lot of this still applies to the C5.

http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Audi/B5/S4/audiforums.com_Audi_S4_Newbie_FAQ.pdf

http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Audi/B5/S4/Audisport-iberica.com_S4_B5_Buyersguide.pdf

Hope that helps

Cheers
Massboykie

is there a thread like this for the 2.8?

New to Audis. Terrific information on this thread and much appreciated as I just purchased an `03 Allroad with 48K miles and an extended warranty which should cover me for all those things identified in the thread. But, as I am already looking at acquiring an `01 A6 2.7T with 101K miles, this information will certainly make me a much better informed purchaser.

Thank you to all who are providing such good information on this site.

BUMP
Good Stuff about the 2.7T, Im dippingdown to FLfrom MD right at 70k, tuned up, fluids great. Hope the 15 -17 hour drive goes well in my Audi A6 2.7TQ.

Over all thanks for the advise

Bump...

this post is great! Need to keep this one near the top. So if you have gained any by this please bump this post back to the top.

Hello,

Can anyone help me with some ECU codes that I am getting?

I have a 2004 A6 2.7T automatic trans. There seems to be no performance issues but I keep tripping the check engine light whenever I downshift using the triptronic gears. It happened to me twice and I stopped downshifting but today the check engine light came on again without me downshifting.
The only other thing that it is doing is that whenever I am coasting with my foot off the excelerator, the RPM indicator needle bounces in between 1100 rpms and 1900 rpms. When I am excelerating, the car seems to have no problems. Only when I am coasting and/or slowing down to make a 90 degree left or right hand turn.

P1624 Mil call-up circuit on active intermittant.
P0741 Tourque converter clutch no power.

Thanks in advance for any help.

BUMP! Awesome info.

Question. I live in a non emissions compliant state (FLA) Would a gutted cat help performance or should I leave it alone and save a few trees??

What's a good combination of mods to extract max HP from a stock setup? (2002 A6 2.7 TT 6 speed manual)

What's the next step in bolt ons with a budget of about 3k?

here's a link all A6 owners should have and visit... Will answer probably 90% of the questions asked on forums
http://sonolithics.com/files/a6_links.html

BUMP! Awesome info.

Question. I live in a non emissions compliant state (FLA) Would a gutted cat help performance or should I leave it alone and save a few trees??

What's a good combination of mods to extract max HP from a stock setup? (2002 A6 2.7 TT 6 speed manual)

What's the next step in bolt ons with a budget of about 3k?

hey
I suggest you do some searching as they are hundreds of threads that will help answer your questions.
But here're a few things
Get Piggy Pipes (www.vastperformance.com, talk to Prince or Kurt). They'll gut the pre cats and relocate the O2 bungs so no CEL or no issues to pass inspection. This mod will give you maybe an additional 20hp-20TQ (some say 30) when cobined with the chip. But it will also decrease the temprature behind the turbos which translates in more reliability.

A good combo of mods is APR Chip/Tune, Piggy Pipes, then have a local ship make you a catback. YOU'll get about 350hp ish and 400TQ (Crank)with 93 octane. that's easy bolt on perf mdos.... go stage 3 and you'll spend thousands more but will get 420-450AWHP.

then I would get Hawks HPS pads, Goodridge Stainless Steal brake lines.... better rotors if you have $.

Finally get HSport sway bars to decrease roll and dive.. you'll notice an immediate improvement in handling... complete with a set a of shocks and springs... various optons based on your driving needs... H&R or Eibach springs are popular... KOni yellows or FSDs or Billstein shocks are popular... Don't do springs only and don't do Coil Overs unless you track your A6 or drive aggressively in twisties very often.

For looks basics are RS6 lip spoiler, S6 door blades, lower suspension (Above), front grilles, debadge the trunk(free), tint, wheels....
For rims I would stick to 18's for a compromise of looks/handling/ride comfort especially if you live in an area with bad roads or/and you pick an aggressive suspension set up... 19's is the max, bogger looks silly and you'll be riding on rubber bands. go for a simple clean design and avoid chrome.... look for a reputable manufacturer/brand, avoid chinese wheels..
BUY a good tire or you may experience vibration, harshness and exessive wear...

have fun
Brice

hi guys,

this post was really helpfull..i have a couple of questions..i just got a 2004 A6, 2.7 sline package..i got it off a dealership who bought it from an audi auction..im new to the whole car scene. my car has done about 70 k , im not sure if they changed the timing belt and stuff.. the car drives like a brand new car, great performance..is there any way or place i can look to see if the TB needs a replacement.. and also if you could tell me ..wht else i need to look out for to keep my engine in top performance levels.

MY guess is it was not done as most owners wait til later.
Go to your local Audi dealer and have them pull the service/maintenance history with yuor VIN. If yo are lucky, the car was taken to the dealer for service by the prior owner and they'll know.
BTW how much did you pay for the car?
Thx

thnks a lot..ill try doin tht..i got mine for 22500 cad..its done abt 70000 kms on it..i plan to insall the K&N air filter..will i be able to do it myself..will i need to dismantle stuff to do the switch..pls help..

yeah easy DIY. One of lower clips on the right side of the box towards the motor is a pain to reach and fasten. Get a wire type hanger to form a hook and refasten the clip when done.

ow do you give it a bump?

ow do you give it a bump?

...how*

you just did :-)

Thanks a bunch for the info....

thanks for the info just bought a 02 a6 2.7T will check those stuff soon as i get a chance.

Awsome info this really helps, just bought a 2001 a6 2.7t with 78K if I turn off the car right after I get home I hear spinning, is that the turbos I'm suppose to allow to cool or something else? I have worked on all my vehicles and changed other cars TBs, having friends with garages helps, but I've never tackled a TB change on an Audi, how long do you think it would take?, and should I attempt it?

Also does anyone know about the headlight assembly, my driver side headlight sometimes just points up or down, and I have to manually adjust the light, any suggestions?

Just bought a 2000 A6 2.7T, My question before going to the service department is..
My ABS brake lite is illuminated in the dash with the ABS yellow in color and Brake is red and blinking...

I understand this is a abs control module issue if I understand correctly.

So I was courious if this can be a DIY job or do I need to spend the $$ at a local SHOP? and if it can be done BY a DIY job.. any help on where to find good part.
Thank you

So what exactly is the best thing to do. I just got a 2004 A6 S-line and its in good shape at 56,000 miles. I want to chip it but i feel like intake or exhaust should come first or can i just go straight to the chip.

Do a 93 octane chip first (assuming its a turbocharged). I'm not sure how well a chip works on a non turbo A6. If it has the 2.7T the chip will do wonders and can get you into the 5.4 - 5.6 0-60 range. After the chip do intake and exhaust.

Intske is a waste of your $ and time. Exhaust will get you very little perf gains, mostly sounds and again depends on which..
Chip is a MUST do for performance. Do the TBB and DVs at the same time. Next do Piggies, H Sport sway bars for handling, Pads and SS lines with blue racing fluid for better stopping and less fade.. and many more mods to go.... suspension, wheels, exhaust, gaskets, spoiler, blades, grille, debadge..... Ko4s, fueling, SMIC...

I have been having issues with my front windows.... they slowly go up stop and drop down a little bit.. eventually it goes back up but motors are good still... what is the fix??

Folks, this thread is titled " tips and suggestions for the new 2.7t owner" so please start your own thread in the proper forum to troubleshoot your specific issues and you will get better results without littering here. THX!:cool: