bump....for sure. Yeah I am curious about reasonably price DPs as well. the ones from APR are a grand plus change....with two kids and a wife...thats not going to fly.
The piggie Dp's are the best bang there is VAST Performance.com there have been several people that are in the 11's with piggie Dp's don't believe the hype. you have a 2.7L motor that is 1.3 X 2 and a 1.3l or one side of the V in the V6 dose not need more than 2.25 inch exhaust. The other companies are playing on people and there thought that bigger is better well for 1000 less my thought is that piggies are WAY better
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Vast performance built 2000 4.2l A6/S8 motor and 6 speed open Intake intake spacers electric fan kit custom VAST file www.vastperformance.com
I am having some problems with my 2004 A6 2.7T, I keep getting a engine coolant sensor high output error but my car isn't running hot. Also my car is starting to get sluggish and unreliable if i drive a while then stop at a gas station and shut it off when i come back somethimes it has a hard time starting.
What i've done that didn't help. Complete tuneup, airfilter, plugs, coils, regular oil changes, fuel filter.
The service tech at the dealership told me it might be the fuel pump but i don't want to spend 700 bucks to find out that he was wrong. Any suggestoins
If you've been running your car long and/or hard, let it idle for a minute before shutting it off. This effectively does the same thing as a turbo timer and extends the life of your turbo's extensively.
VAST dp's are $400 and just as good as the $1000-$2000 one's you'll buy from any other company.
What do you guys think about royal purple? I'm a maintenance whore so i do oil changes 3k-5k. And i always like to do it right, i've heard only good things about royal purple but haven't heard much from the audi community.
i am looking to buy a A6 2002 2.7 TURBO at 35,000 miles...is this car any good...am i going to run into problems? i had a 98 A6 2.8 AND the engine was gone at 190,000 but i repaired a lot during the time i had it...
The Vast Down pipes are as good as they get..I have seen several people with them and there dose not seem to be any issues. I have the V8 version on my car and I saw 15hp increase..that is on a V8 N/A car you should expect to see twice as much on a turbo car
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from detroit muscle to audi hustle
from V8 with too much noise to audi with too much room..but still more power Vast performance stage 2 tiptronic file & stage 3 ECU file. with 2 new chips I now have B6 S4 power lets call it B6 S4+power :P
First of all this thread is awesome! much thanks to twinturbomewand crew for your good questions and keeping this thread alive.
My question for you'all goes:
I am currently looking to purchase an A6 2.7T @90K. The cost of the maintenence is daunting...and the dealer is already changing the timing belt because of ticking noises.
I just want my car to drive reliably... i am not looking to chip-it and really just want to use it as a comfortable commuter car since i fit in it well and enjoy the interior. should i still look into piggies??? replacement turbos?? I have drastically changed my driving style to non aggressive and try to drive in a way that preserves the car.. the engine and breaks. I am talking to the mechanic and based on what i've read here should i still hit him with the following check-up list? see below...
Replace Timing Belt along with the belt tensioner, water pump, pullies(?) and serp belt. Check/replace The Oxyegen Sensors Check Front Suspension Tie Rods/Control Rods Replace Fuel Filter Check vacuum Hoses Check Turbos for Signs of Failure – or replace turbos!! Check Temp Sender for update (should be green) Check cv Joints/boots Check breaks and rotors Check/replace The Oxyegen Sensors Check Front Suspension Tie Rods/Control Rods Replace Fuel Filter Check vacuum Hoses Check Turbos for Signs of Failure – or replace turbos!! Check Temp Sender for update (should be green) Check cv Joints/boots Check breaks and rotors Would what would you add? what would you remove!? this is alot of money for me to shell-out for a car that hasn't even left the lot.
Little help
Thanks!
< Message edited by Teutonic2.7T -- 11/14/2007 10:08:17 AM >
First of all this thread is awesome! much thanks to twinturbomewand crew for your good questions and keeping this thread alive.
My question for you'all goes:
I am currently looking to purchase an A6 2.7T @90K. The cost of the maintenence is daunting...and the dealer is already changing the timing belt because of ticking noises.
I just want my car to drive reliably... i am not looking to chip-it and really just want to use it as a comfortable commuter car since i fit in it well and enjoy the interior. should i still look into piggies??? replacement turbos?? I have drastically changed my driving style to non aggressive and try to drive in a way that preserves the car.. the engine and breaks. I am talking to the mechanic and based on what i've read here should i still hit him with the following check-up list? see below...
Replace Timing Belt along with the belt tensioner, water pump, pullies(?) and serp belt. Check/replace The Oxyegen Sensors Check Front Suspension Tie Rods/Control Rods Replace Fuel Filter Check vacuum Hoses Check Turbos for Signs of Failure – or replace turbos!! Check Temp Sender for update (should be green) Check cv Joints/boots Check breaks and rotors Check/replace The Oxyegen Sensors Check Front Suspension Tie Rods/Control Rods Replace Fuel Filter Check vacuum Hoses Check Turbos for Signs of Failure – or replace turbos!! Check Temp Sender for update (should be green) Check cv Joints/boots Check breaks and rotors
Would what would you add? what would you remove!? this is alot of money for me to shell-out for a car that hasn't even left the lot.
Little help
Thanks!
I bought my 01 a6 with 90k myself, the timing belt was changed at 80k. If i were you just have a mechanic look it over, and see what he says. Most of the things on your list should stand out to you, i wouldnt replace anything unless it needs replacing, since parts and labor add up quickly...I've been slowly changing things as they come up and theres been no major problems as long as you drive the car respectable like you plan to do.
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APR 93 octane, Hyperboost DV's, gutted pre cats...
yea, i presented the mech. with a list & he almost lost it!
but in the end everything worked out... i got the timing belt and assoc. parts replaced along with the water pump.. also the serp., rear breaks, fuel filter, oil change, spark plugs. things are going good so far... except the driver's seat switch stopped working....
also... all this chipping talk is begining to convince me. if things go well i might consider it in the summer... not trying to be a racer, but more hp on the take-off wouldn't be a bad thing.
yo krelly what part of CT are you in? im working in CT now so im around the way. where did you get the chip? where do you take your car for service? also how did you gut the pre cats?
i was gonna get the chip, DV's and get some piggies.... but don't know of a reliable shop to get them done.
Do those of you that take your vehicles in to a mechanic use an audi dealership or do you take it to a regular foreign car mechanic? I know of two mechanics, one near my house, and one near my wife's work that specialize in european cars (audi, bmw, saab, volvo, etc).
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Cheers, Jason
01 A6 2.7T bone stock 97 Lexus LX450, ARB Bumper, OME Js, 35s, roof rack. 85 Toyota 4Runner Custom bumpers & sliders, 8" lift, 4.88 gears, lockers f/r, 36" IROKS, lots of dents, tears, general destruction
unless under Audi Warranty I NEVER go to Audi Dealerships. I use small indy shops with AUDI certified mechanics. PAS and GMP in Charlotte do all the work on my car.
Very helpful, thanks for the info! Here's a question that you probably have a quick answer to? Where is the battery in these cars. I'm a new owner of a used 02 Audi A6 3.0 Quattro and my car wouldn't start this morning. It's like 0 degrees here in WI go figure. Any help is appreciated.
The battery is located in an access panel under the hood near the cowl (area at the bottom of the windshield). You should see a black panel with a picture of the battery on it with a + and -.
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2004 Audi A6 2.7T S-Line - His 2004 Pontiac GTO (12.773 @ 109.72, 1.945 60') - Retired 2003 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71 - Hers
I purchased a 2003 Audi A6 2.7t a year ago with 54k miles. I am now at 73,000. For the performance of this car I have to say the reliablity is great but as any sport car it needs to be maintained. Simple things such as doing your oil every 5k miles and letting the turbo's warm up/cool down(wind down) are going to determine how long things last. If it's 15 out and your that impatient person who will pull out and rev to 3k without warming the car up, yeah your going to have issues. My car is currently in the shop to have both front hub bearings and driveshafts replaced, T/B & sensors, and a few other things for just under a G... I let a wheel bearing go and it took out a driveshaft so stupid things like this are what lead to bigger problems.
< Message edited by TurboedA6 -- 2/25/2008 10:02:37 AM >
yo krelly what part of CT are you in? im working in CT now so im around the way. where did you get the chip? where do you take your car for service? also how did you gut the pre cats?
i was gonna get the chip, DV's and get some piggies.... but don't know of a reliable shop to get them done.
Im in madison, where are you working? I did the chip and DV's at excellerate in branford, i also bring it to him for service, actaully bringing it soon for cam seals. The guy who runs it knows his stuff and is very friendly.
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APR 93 octane, Hyperboost DV's, gutted pre cats...
another thing i found out... If all of a sudden you found your brake lights stay on even when you have turned the car off and exited it, and you also experience loss of throttle irregularly.... you need to replace your brake light switch, a $4 part at the dealer and 5 minute repair. However, they are fragile and finicky, so get 2 or 3 in case one doesn't work or break during install...