RE: Ask a Professional Detailer...
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RE: Ask a Professional Detailer... - 4/19/2007 2:35:54 PM
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qttrcoupe
Posts: 52
Joined: 4/4/2007
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George
Here it is... the camera on my phone was set to B&W but if you need color I'll go back out and get one, It is the pieces that looks like wood... but I believe is actually plastic... (judging by another scratch somewhere else on it) it is just dull and needs polished somehow to restore that gloss to it like most fo the other pieces that are on the doos and dash are like.
 
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RE: Ask a Professional Detailer... - 4/19/2007 8:07:25 PM
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Lopster99
Posts: 245
Joined: 2/26/2007
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George, Thanks so much for recomending those products! I recieved them yesterday morning and great packing by the way!
I washed my car with the Poorboy's super suds and my new sheepskin wash mit and let me tell you! This stuff is awesome just the wash made my car shine alot and the waffle weave drying cloth is amazing, i never had to once ring it out!
I will be waxing and all that good stuff this weekend! I cant wait, so far i am soo pleased with this stuff! Oh yea, the Poorboy tire shine is awesome too!
Best 210.00 i spent on my car yet!
Thanks!
Dennis
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RE: Ask a Professional Detailer... - 4/20/2007 12:27:05 AM
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Detailed Image
Posts: 78
Joined: 3/29/2007
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Dennis - Great to hear that you have had a pleasant experience with our business. I greatly appreciate the feedback. I constantly am trying to refine our product selection to offer anyone a great detail no matter what they order from our site. I am looking forward to hearing about your results with everything!
Keep us posted.
George
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RE: Ask a Professional Detailer... - 4/20/2007 1:20:37 AM
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scottburton11
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Great thread.
Earlier you recommended quick detailing sprays for use between washes. Now I want to get down to the real dirt: what would you do if you had no place to hand-wash your own car? I'm an apartment dweller where there's a strict no-wash no-repair policy in the lot, and the local pressure-wash coin-ops have "No Buckets/No Hand-washing" signs posted. What to do?
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RE: Ask a Professional Detailer... - 4/20/2007 11:37:13 AM
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Detailed Image
Posts: 78
Joined: 3/29/2007
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qttrcoupe - Thanks for the pics, that accurately gives me an idea on what you were referring to. I would recommend trying something like ScratchX and/or PlasticX from Meguiars or another really fine polish. Something like Final Polish II or PO106ff would do the trick and also work wonders on your paint. Basically you need a polish with micro abrasives to smooth out those dips and valleys, aka scratches and swirls.
quote:
ORIGINAL: scottburton11
Great thread.
Earlier you recommended quick detailing sprays for use between washes. Now I want to get down to the real dirt: what would you do if you had no place to hand-wash your own car? I'm an apartment dweller where there's a strict no-wash no-repair policy in the lot, and the local pressure-wash coin-ops have "No Buckets/No Hand-washing" signs posted. What to do?
Great question. There are a few products out there that can be used as a waterless wash. One of them is Poorboy's Spray & Wipe and another popular one is Optimum No-Rinse. Both have slightly different methods to them when using them as a waterless wash. The Spray & Wipe would be used similar to a quick detailer but you would mist 6 - 7 sprays per section, let it sit for 30 seconds to a minute or so. Here is a nice writeup on how to use the product on the Poorboy's World Forum.
The Optimum No-Rinse uses water but you do not need a hose source. I did some quick searching but found this mini-write up on the Optimum Forums for you to see how to use it. Optimum No-Rinse Useage
I'd say the Optimum is more ideal for dirtier cleanings and the Spray & Wipe would be used for a little more than a light dusting or less.
Let me know if this makes sense after reading those writeups. I'd be happy to answer any other questions you may have.
George
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RE: Ask a Professional Detailer... - 4/23/2007 7:03:21 AM
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kyliefrancois
Posts: 68
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My paint, i have a 2003 that is dolphin gray, when i run my hands over it mostly the sides feel nice and smooth, but when i get to the trunk, hood, and one quarter panel, the paint feels rough, even though it stil looks as shiny as the rest of the car. is this some kind of oxidation? i live in maine and it was formerly a new jersey car. im thinking it is from pollution, but what can i put on it to bring basck the feel of smoothness?
~kylie
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RE: Ask a Professional Detailer... - 4/23/2007 4:58:53 PM
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Detailed Image
Posts: 78
Joined: 3/29/2007
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quote:
ORIGINAL: kyliefrancois
My paint, i have a 2003 that is dolphin gray, when i run my hands over it mostly the sides feel nice and smooth, but when i get to the trunk, hood, and one quarter panel, the paint feels rough, even though it stil looks as shiny as the rest of the car. is this some kind of oxidation? i live in maine and it was formerly a new jersey car. im thinking it is from pollution, but what can i put on it to bring basck the feel of smoothness?
~kylie
Kylie - Great question. Typically what happens is over time you'll have a build up of contamination that won't be removed with your normal washing and drying procedures. From the sounds of it, you have some contamination building up that isn't necessarily visible to the naked eye but can be felt when gliding a towel or wash mitt over the paint. What you can do is use a clay bar to help remove this contamination in order to restore the slick, contamination free surface from your vehicle.
Clay can be found at your local automotive stores and come in a variety of sizes. To be honest with you, there are only a few clay manufacturers so most of them perform the same. Typically speaking they will come in 50g, 80g, 100g and 200g sized bars. I recommend using between 30 - 50 gram pieces of clay per vehicle. The clay bars we stock are 200g bars, which means we recommend cutting them up into 4 - 6 equal sized sections so that if you potentially drop a piece of clay, you don't have to worry about ruining your entire bar and can throw that piece out. Once clay hits the ground, it should never touch your paint because you can easily add imperfections such as scratches and swirls.
We are running a special on our homepage for clay bars, where if you purchase one of these 200g bars for $24.99 we are including a 16oz bottle of Clear Kote Quik Shine which can be used as clay lube or a quick detailer.
Claying your paint is also the perfect time to assess your paint for imperfections such as swirls and scratches, and follow up with the proper polish to correct them. The reason why is because this will be the time your paint is clear of contamination and you will get the best results out of your polish, sealant or wax, since you aren't using those products over the contamination.
We have put together a helpful piece of information describing the clay bar process as well as step-by-step how-to's on properly claying your vehicle. I encourage you to read up on them prior to using a clay bar on your vehicle.
If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.
George
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RE: Ask a Professional Detailer... - 4/28/2007 1:25:28 PM
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Lopster99
Posts: 245
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Hey I have recieved all my products and must say i love the way my car turned out!
After about 7 hours of hand polishing the entire car it looks amazing!!!!!!!!!
Thanks so much!!
Let me know what you think.. advice?..
Thanks
Dennis
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RE: Ask a Professional Detailer... - 4/28/2007 1:26:54 PM
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Lopster99
Posts: 245
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I hate how the pictures i can never get them into the site without having the stupid link!
But here is a few more pictures!
Im not the best picture guy neither soo.. hope they are ok!
Attachment (2)
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RE: Ask a Professional Detailer... - 4/28/2007 10:15:04 PM
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Detailed Image
Posts: 78
Joined: 3/29/2007
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Dennis - I can tell the car came out great. Pics 3 and 4 are your best shots, especially pic 4 where you look between the wheels and it looks like a mirror. I'm glad you got the results you were looking for with the products you picked up.
For some helpful picture tips, check out this thread on shooting pictures of detailed vehicles.
The biggest benefit your see from here on out is that your vehicle should be much easier to maintain now.
Once again, we greatly appreciate your support.
George
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RE: Ask a Professional Detailer... - 5/3/2007 3:39:31 AM
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old64mb
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Joined: 4/6/2007
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Hey guys - My recently purchased 02 A6 was previously driven by a woman who didn't really care much about the interior. It's not in bad shape by any means, but it's also fairly dirty...lots of stains, nicks, etc. I've tried Lexol Ph Cleaner for the seats, got some stuff off, but not the deeper stains. (Funny, I'd figured black was easier to clean). Was curious - should I be using a brush instead of a sponge, or would you recommend I switch to your recommended brand? Also, is there any particularly good way to clean the seatbelts? Now those are really filthy...I think there were both kids being hauled around and lots of ski stuff back there. Nice work in general, and thanks for the tips.
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RE: Ask a Professional Detailer... - 5/3/2007 1:33:59 PM
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Detailed Image
Posts: 78
Joined: 3/29/2007
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old64mb - thank you for the positive feedback, it is appreciated.
As far as your leather is concerned, if you'd like to try some new products we have our best leather care combo on sale this month, Leatherique Prestine Clean and Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil for $10 off its normal bundled price.
Leatherique is a unique product and is applied differently than other leather care products. This is how I would apply the products to get the most out of your Leatherique.
1. Vacuum seats thoroughly and wipe down with a damp towel to ensure all loose debris is removed prior to working the product.
2. Apply Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil by hand and massage into the leather or leatherette, using generous amounts to the stitching and cracked areas
3. Allow Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil to sit on your seats for up to 24 hours, we suggest parking the vehicle in the sun to create a sauna effect while the product is penetrating your seats.
3a. Multiple applications may be required for hardened and discolored leather.
4. Apply Prestine Clean directly onto the seats with a terry cloth applicator pad, using generous amounts around stitching and cracked areas
5. Allow Prestine Clean to penetrate leather for 15 – 30 minutes
6. Remove Prestine Clean with a warm damp cloth towel
7. Buff completely dry with a new dry cloth towel
I'd suggest applying Leatherique Prestine Clean every 3 - 4 months for optimal conditioning and preserving your leather and leatherette. The Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil should be done one to two times a year or as needed. For regular maintenance cleanings, just a damp cloth followed by a dry cloth.
This will leave you with a beautiful matte finish and soft and supple leather. This is as good as it gets when it comes to leather care.
For your seatbelts, I'd recommend an All Purpose Cleaner / Degreaser diluted to the manufacturers recommended ratio. For a product readily available at local department stores, try to get ahold of some FOLEX. This seems to be a popular item among detailers that can be found locally. I use Poorboy's Biodegradable APC for stubborn stains like you are describing along with a small scrub brush to agitate the surface. It also works great as an engine degreaser, tire cleaner, wheel well cleaner and more. I typically use it diluted 3:1 with water and have stronger versions available when needed. You could try the FOLEX on your leather too, but keep in mind it will not condition it and restore it to the soft and supple feel it deserves.
Hope this helps. Let us know how you make out with everything.
George
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RE: Ask a Professional Detailer... - 5/25/2007 8:13:07 AM
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Detailed Image
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Bill - Great questions. I'd like to hear more about the condition of your vehicle (specifically the imperfections, like swirl marks, water spots, scratches, etc.) before I can properly give you the best recommendations for your vehicle. Typically the lesser expensive buffers are fine for applying a glaze, sealant or wax, but are ineffective at removing imperfections. What happens is that the cheaper buffers will bog down under pressure or will not generate enough heat to properly break down an abrasive polish, which is what you need to have happen to get the most out of polishing. If you are content with the condition of the clear coat, then you'd be fine with what you have. If you're trying to correct the imperfections, I'd recommend investing in the PC.
One of the problems with certain buffers is that you should use a seperate pad for each product, and sometimes the proprietary pads that are sold on some of the cheaper buffers are expensive and hard to find. This is another major benefit the PC has over other buffers, you can purchase a velcro backing plate, and use a wide variety of pads available.
Once I hear a little more about the condition of your vehicle and what you are trying to accomplish, I'd be happy to put together a package to best fit your needs. Also, let me know which of the following traits are most important to you... results, ease of use, value and time saving.
Look forward to hearing back from you.
George
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Detailed Image - High quality automotive detailing products, tools and useful how-to sections.
Detail University - Automotive Detailing Discussion Board
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RE: Ask a Professional Detailer... - 5/27/2007 2:09:29 PM
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Detailed Image
Posts: 78
Joined: 3/29/2007
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Next step would be to use a light abrasive polish. First thing you'd want to decide on is if you want to tackle this by hand or with a quality buffer, such as the Porter Cable 7424. If you go by hand, I'd recommend trying Meguiars ScratchX which can be found locally at PepBoy's, AutoZone, etc. If this doesn't do the trick, you'll want to step up to a more aggressive product / pad combination, in which I'd recommend looking in investing in a quality buffer to do the job. Let me know if you'd like some more information on that.
George
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Detailed Image - High quality automotive detailing products, tools and useful how-to sections.
Detail University - Automotive Detailing Discussion Board
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RE: Ask a Professional Detailer... - 5/30/2007 8:44:13 AM
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Detailed Image
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flipkid - great work! This just goes to show how much more important the process is over the products used. I like to think that 70-80% of the results is due to using the proper process and techniques while the other remaining 20-30% can be enhanced by higher quality products, all depending on your detailing goals and objectives of course. I'm glad you found our website helpful. If you'd like any suggestions when you are ready to try some new products for your black Audi, I'd be happy to give them to you, just say the word. Which steps were done in the pictured detail? Great to hear from you and thanks for sharing, I enjoy hearing back from our readers.
a4BRZLowrider - I usually use a mixture of Isopropyl Alcohol and water (50:50), sometimes if that doesn't work, I'll mix in some degreaser too. Some areas may need agitation from a soft bristled brush. You can always try the old peanut butter trick too, hehe. Looking forward to your pictures of your shop.
George
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Detailed Image - High quality automotive detailing products, tools and useful how-to sections.
Detail University - Automotive Detailing Discussion Board
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RE: Ask a Professional Detailer... - 5/30/2007 8:59:00 AM
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flipkid
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Joined: 5/21/2007
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Hey George,
First I did the wash and dry - using the two bucket method. I only had
one sheep skin mitt, so I used a regular car washing sponge as well. I
used some terry cloth towels along with some microfiber towels to dry.
After the wash and rinse, I applied a liquid clar bar then rinsed it off.
Then I went ahead and applied a polish and buffed it out using a
microfiber towel. After the polish I put on a wax and buffed the wax
out until there was a nice shine.
I started to notice the shine come through after rinsing the clay bar off,
and it progressively got shinier with each step.
One thing about the detailing was that after the mirrorlike shine comes
through you start to notice more imperfections on the car - such as small
dents, scratches, etc. How would one fix these minor imperfections?
Also, for cleaning the windows of the car, what would you recommend?
I appreciate your help! Thanks again!
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RE: Ask a Professional Detailer... - 5/31/2007 10:44:09 PM
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chipdog805
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I have a 2001 black f-150 and there are a few problems with the paint that i hoped i coulf fix but i dont know how...but i am willting to try pretty much anything. I dont have pictues now but i can get some. One of the main things is the hood there are what i think to be cracks in the clear coat and they kind of like spider webs. the only thing i have been able to do is cover it up with a colored wax. The clear coat on the roof is also coming off there are big spots of clear coat flaking off i dono if i can do anything about that short of getting it re clear coated. and the last thing is there was an incident with a power spayer that took a prety big chip out of clear coat. and i dont know if i can just clear coat that spot or what i can do. so any ideas you have would be greatly apreciated. i can get pictures when it is light out tommarrow.
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RE: Ask a Professional Detailer... - 6/4/2007 8:24:26 AM
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Detailed Image
Posts: 78
Joined: 3/29/2007
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quote:
ORIGINAL: flipkid
One thing about the detailing was that after the mirrorlike shine comes
through you start to notice more imperfections on the car - such as small
dents, scratches, etc. How would one fix these minor imperfections?
Also, for cleaning the windows of the car, what would you recommend?
I appreciate your help! Thanks again!
Routine looked good flipkid. As far as the dents, scratches, etc. you can either decide to tackle that yourself or take it to a professional. I do not deal much with paint touch ups or body repair so I won't have too much to offer there. You are right, a fresh detail can bring out those imperfections.
For regular glass maintenance, I use Stoner's Invisible Glass with a combination of 3 MF towels... 2 general purpose ones and 1 glass specific one. The first general purpose one I use to apply the product and work it into the glass. The second one I follow up with and remove almost all of the product and get it nearly streak free, then I follow up with the low nap glass microfiber towel to ensure there is no streaking left behind. The nice thing about the Stoner's is you can use it both on your interior and exterior and it is safe to use on tinted windows as well.
I apologize for the delayed reply.
chipdog805 - Unfortunately I don't have a definite answer for your and your truck. From the looks of the picture, I think the best you are going to get is hiding it temporarily until you get the area repainted. You can try a light abrasive polish and see if that starts to help, but I doubt it. It would help with all of the light scratches and swirls I see around it though, so it may be worth doing. Continue using the wax that helps fill it in or use a glaze, then seal it in.
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Detailed Image - High quality automotive detailing products, tools and useful how-to sections.
Detail University - Automotive Detailing Discussion Board
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RE: Ask a Professional Detailer... - 
