As a new member and sponsor of AudiForums.com, Detailed Image would like to open up a thread where you can ask us about anything relating to detailing. There is a lot of good and bad information out there about how to detail properly, so we want to provide you a place to get clarification on your detailing questions. While we don’t know everything, we do have a lot of experience with a wide variety of products that can provide you with meaningful insight. We specialize in helping people clean, shine and protect their vehicle’s interior, exterior and engine bay. We have hand-selected each product on our site that will help give you top quality detailing results.

Below we have posted some before and after pictures of work Detailed Image has done with the service side of our business. These results can be achieved by anyone who is willing to learn about detailing properly with the right combination of products. We can help you pick out a detailing package that best fits your vehicle’s particular needs. We also offer 10% OFF to all AudiForum.com members but it excludes buffers, vacuums and specials. Just type in "10offAF" and you'll get the discount when checking out.

Before - Notice the house in the background through the haze?
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/detimg/Detailed%20Image/Hood-b4-1.jpg (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/detimg/Detailed%20Image/Hood-b4-1.jpg)

After:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/detimg/Detailed%20Image/Hood-aft-1.jpg (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/detimg/Detailed%20Image/Hood-aft-1.jpg)

Side by Side Comparison:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/detimg/Detailed%20Image/DodVan99-sbs.jpg (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/detimg/Detailed%20Image/DodVan99-sbs.jpg)

Before:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/detimg/Detailed%20Image/JagXJS93-before.jpg (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/detimg/Detailed%20Image/JagXJS93-before.jpg)

After:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/detimg/Detailed%20Image/JagXJS93-a.jpg (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/detimg/Detailed%20Image/JagXJS93-a.jpg)

Friends old show Audi show car:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/detimg/Detailed%20Image/03A4After4.jpg

Of course a couple pics of my old B5 S4:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/detimg/Detailed%20Image/Driver.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/detimg/Detailed%20Image/Rear.jpg

Don't be afraid to post up any questions that you have no matter how simple or complex it is. We’ll do our best to provide you a detailed and timely response. Thank you and we look forward to starting up some great dialogue!

George and Greg
Owners - Detailed Image
www.detailedimage.com (http://www.detailedimage.com/)

These guys are in my area. They do amazing work. in fact, i stopped in today to pick up some polish and wax :) thanks for your help guys, much appreciated. my audi thanks you too:D I do have a question. Whats good for leather conditioning so it doesnt dry out and crack? you saw my interior today, its in good shape, and i want to preserve that niceness for the years to come. my main concern is the driver's seat, as its always in use

Thanks for the feedback Vadim. For Audi leather I've had great luck with using the Leatherique line (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/index.php?manufacturers_id=5) of products. Leatherique is the product of choice for the Bentley and Rolls Royce Owners Clubs. It comes in two forms, Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=83) and Leatherique Prestine Clean (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=81). The Rejuvenator Oil is designed to really bring back hardened, faded, discolored leather with its deep conditioning characteristics.

The Prestine Clean (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=81) is applied after to help remove contaminates and provide even more conditioning. Your vehicle’s leather has many micro pores that can become clogged with contamination from soil, human oils, spills and more. These contaminates discolor the leather and prevent the pores from absorbing conditioners that keep leather soft yet durable. It’s very important to clean and condition the leather regularly so the leather doesn’t dry out, fade and crack.

If you leather is in great condition and you are looking to just preserve it, then only the Prestine Clean is necessary. However being that your vehicle has 4 years of wear and tear on the leather, I would suggest both steps. I did both steps on my S4 prior to letting it go and it really brought back the look and feel I was hoping for.

The application process is pretty detailed so I'll outline that as well:

Prior to Use:
The selected surface should be vacuumed and wiped down with a damp cloth.

Products Recommended:
Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil
Leatherique Prestine Clean – Required to remove Rejuvenator Oil
Applicator Pad – Required to apply Prestine Clean
Microfiber Towel x2 – Required to remove Prestine Clean

Steps Taken:
1. Vacuum seats thoroughly and wipe down with a damp towel to ensure all loose debris is removed prior to working the product.
2. Apply Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil by hand and massage into the leather or leatherette, using generous amounts to the stitching and cracked areas
3. Allow Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil to sit on your seats for up to 24 hours, we suggest parking the vehicle in the sun to create a sauna effect while the product is penetrating your seats.
3a. Multiple applications may be required for hardened and discolored leather.
4. Apply Prestine Clean directly onto the seats with a terry cloth applicator pad, using generous amounts around stitching and cracked areas
5. Allow Prestine Clean to penetrate leather for 15 – 30 minutes
6. Remove Prestine Clean with a warm damp Microfiber towel
7. Buff completely dry with a new dry Microfiber towel

Maintenance Schedule:
We suggest applying Leatherique Prestine Clean every 2 – 3 months for optimal conditioning and preserving your leather and leatherette. The Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil should be done one to two times a year or as needed.

I know this is a lot to take in for leather care, so don't hesitate to ask any questions you may have. Thank you once again for your support.

George @ Detailed Image

Welcome to the forum Geoge & Greg

For any who have not come across Detailed Image before you’ll find they are an asset to detailing forums with a lot of practical ‘hands-on’ knowledge to impart, as opposed to a vendor pretending to be an educator.

Again let me say welcome

TOGWT - Thank you for the warm welcome. I really enjoy reading your insightful posts and insite on automotive detailing as well. I'm glad to see you a part of Audi Forums.

George @ Detailed Image

Not sure why but i never pop in here and now im glad i did.

I have 2 questions for you.

1. I have a faded corner on my trunk by the window as if it had been touched up or buffed by the wrong person. How can i bring that back to match the rest of the trunk?

2. My head liner has some discolorasion, kind of like water damage or cleaned improperly. The liner is off white in color how should i remove these stains?

Thanks in advance, and welcome to AF.

Good questions new2me. Thanks for the welcome.

1) The faded corner on your trunk sounds like it has a case of bad marring, hologramming or a lot of swirls, which is taking away from the finish of your paint. These often come about with unskilled rotary buffer use or by using too aggressive of a polish or pad and not following up with a finishing polish and finishing pad. If this is the case, you'll basically need a quality finishing polish to help remove those imperfections and bring back the depth and gloss from your paint. Do you plan on correcting these marks by hand or with a buffer? Any chance you could take a couple pictures of the area you are describing to get a more accurate idea on what you are talking about? It would be best shot in direct sunlight or under florescent lighting to fully reveal the imperfections. From our store, I'd suggest Menzerna Final Polish II (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=99). This is one of the premier finishing polishes on the market and does a great job removing hazing, oxidation, light swirls and scratches and other minor imperfections. It works best with a random orbital buffer such as the Porter Cable 7424 (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/index.php?cPath=37_38), but have also had good results by hand with this product. An over the counter option you could try would be Meguiars ScratchX or 3M Swirl Mark Remover.

2) As far as your headliner is concerned, this is a tricky area to deal with. You do not want to go too aggressive with the product or method of cleaning because you risk damaging the adhesive used to hold up your headliner. I'd typically use an all purpose cleaner, like 303 Fabric Cleaner (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=39) (concentrate diluted down to about 6:1 ratio) or 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=38). Simply mist a microfiber towel and blot the effected area. You can take a gentle brush to the area to help agitate the stain as well. For an over the counter solution many people have had good luck with the Woolite products. Be careful when cleaning your headliner, it may be something you may want to seek a local professionals opinion. Again if you want to snap a couple shots of it, I may be able to give you some more advice.

George @ Detailed Image

Final polish II is kick arse! im using it on my car. I see a significant difference after only one super light application. good stuff.

After the winter, Igot somelittle stains, I dont even know what to call it, maybe pitting or just dirt spots I cant get off on my rims. Ive tried some wheel cleaning products like maguires but all seem crap too me. Any suggestions.

could it be the combined forces of the extremely hot brake dust particles combined with salt and road dust? they feel spotwelded on when u try to get em off. i had some on mine, i used a stick wrapped in a twin layer with a rag to scrape it off

ORIGINAL: ultrasport

After the winter, Igot somelittle stains, I dont even know what to call it, maybe pitting or just dirt spots I cant get off on my rims. Ive tried some wheel cleaning products like maguires but all seem crap too me. Any suggestions.


Good questions. Sometimes wheel cleaners are not strong enough to clean etched in brake dust particles and the surface requires a deeper cleaning / polishing to really bring back the finish. I'd suggest a metal polish rather than a spray on wheel cleaner. Metal polishes typically have chemical cleaners in them as well as micro abrasives to really clean and restore the surface. If you are looking for a product to try I would recommend the P21s Finish Restorer (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=115) as a quality metal polish. The best thing I can recommend to you, regardless of which polish you end up using to clean the wheels, I'd encourage looking into Poorboy's Wheel Sealant (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=148) or Wheel Wax (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=123). This will put on a protective coating designed to withstand the hot brake dust from your vehicle. It will make future cleanings much easier with a simple wipe down of shampoo and water and minimize allowing the brake dust to build up.

If you have any other questions please do not hesitate to ask.

George @ Detailed Image

George -

The air where I live is grimey and full of polution (L.A.), and cars don't go a day without it building up on their finishes. What's a good way to get gunk and dust off between washings?

would i be totally wrongin recommending quick detaiilers and a microfiber cloth.....assuming its not real dirty just day to day in between washes stuff

ORIGINAL: scottburton11
George -

The air where I live is grimey and full of polution (L.A.), and cars don't go a day without it building up on their finishes. What's a good way to get gunk and dust off between washings?


ORIGINAL: vnv727
would i be totally wrongin recommending quick detaiilers and a microfiber cloth.....assuming its not real dirty just day to day in between washes stuff


I would agree with vnv727. If it's a light dusting on the surface, I like to use an ultra plush microfiber towel and a liberal amount of quick detailer (QD) solution. You may end up using 2 - 5 microfiber towels depending on how dirty the vehicle is, but this would be how I would remove it short of giving it a complete proper wash if I had the time. These are the plushes towels that I happen to stock ... Ultra Plush Microfiber Towels (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=166) and my favorite QD for quick clean ups is Poorboy's Spray & Wipe (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=139).

I'm not a huge fan of the car dusters as you are dragging dry fibers over dry contaminated paint. The QD acting as a lubricant and the thick pile of the microfiber makes this method one of the safest approaches to removing light contamination without a complete wash.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

George @ Detailed Image

All i want to know is how the hell do you get that benz to shine like that? what products do you use!..I use meguiars Clay, polish, cleaner, and wax and looks good but wow not like that!

All i want to know is how the hell do you get that benz to shine like that? what products do you use!..I use meguiars Clay, polish, cleaner, and wax and looks good but wow not like that!

George and Greg this thread is a great idea.

Al

ORIGINAL: Lopster99

All i want to know is how the hell do you get that benz to shine like that? what products do you use!..I use meguiars Clay, polish, cleaner, and wax and looks good but wow not like that!
these two are unreal at cleaning cars, man. i saw their work in person. wicked nice

Thank you for the positive feedback! Detailing is an art form that takes many years to master. One of the best things I can preach to anyone is learn about the different processes, proper techniques and products available. The absolute most important thing to do is prep work. What I mean by that is removing contamination from the surface and removing imperfections from the clear coat. The typical steps that would achieve this are: Washing & Drying -> Clay Bar -> Cutting Polish -> Finishing Polish -> Glaze... After those 5 steps (sometimes not all are needed) your paints clear coat will be in its best condition possible and when you apply your favorite sealant or wax, it will produce a stunning finish on any paint.

I encourage you to read our detailed how-to's to learn about each step of the detailing process (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/howtos.php). We explain why each step is important and what it is designed to do as well as give you step by step instructions on how to get the most out of each step.

Once you understand the processes available, I usually recommend mapping out your goals and how you plan on caring for your vehicle. I have my personal favorites as far as products I use on my vehicles, but everyones needs vary slightly from the next person. If you would like to give me some information about your vehicle and your detailing goals, I'd be happy to put together a package for you to get the most out of your detail.

I look forward to hearing back from you!

George @ Detailed Image

Al - Thank you for the positive feedback. I saw on some other threads that you offered some great advice as well. It's encouraging to see other detailing enthusiasts on the forum!

Vadim - Thank you for the high praise. How is the Final Polish II treating you?

George

George, this stuff kicks ARSE! too bad i didnt use that on my eclipse. that thing would have been blinding people as i drove by

Your work looks amazing. I just want my car to look like those in the pictures!

Alright, I have a 2002 Audi. I have the light silver color. My paint i would rate it on a scale of 1-10, probably about an 8. It is not perfect, it has some minor chips in the front (rocks, cinders, salt) but they are not that bad. When i clay my car and do the polish and wax it looks great, feels really smooth. It just doesnt look anywhere as good as what you have there in those pictures!

I guess what i really want is just a VERY high glossy shine. Better than showroom. I want it to stand out!!!

Thanks on any info, products that you can lean me towards!

yeah these guys defiently know what there doing, shame this site doesnt have a rep system otherwise id rep u..instead have an e-http://www.acecam.com/smcookie.jpg

Lopster99 - Thanks for the positive feedback. That Mercades went under quite the transformation, I believe it was around 6 hours of just polishing and then the rest of the steps. It took around 9 hours to complete the exterior. I'm assuming your paint was not in as bad of condition as the Mercades was.

This is my routine I use when performing a show car prep on a lighter colored vehicle:

First thing I’d like to mention is investing in the proper washing and drying tools. A majority of swirls and scratches (70%+) come from using improper washing and drying products and techniques. I would suggest a sheepskin wash mitt, waffle weave drying towel(s) and a quality lubricating shampoo. The sheepskin wash mitt has the thickest pile which will pull contamination from the surface rather than pushing it around like with a sponge. The waffle weave drying towels are the safest towels to use on your paint. They are very absorbent and are safer to use than terry cloth, cotton or a chamois. Poorboy’s Super Slick & Suds is a high lubricating shampoo that helps effectively remove contamination from the surface. I’m not sure if you have these (or comparable) already, but I would suggest this Wash Kit (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=395) if you are in need of some new quality wash tools and products. I'd also suggest picking up a Grit Guard Insert (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=494) to use in your rinse bucket, which I encourage you to read up on the two bucket wash method if you aren't already using that. Once you go through the entire process on your vehicle, properly maintaining the finish is very important so you don’t waste all of your hard work.

After the washing and drying phase you would really benefit from using a clay bar. A clay bar will help remove contamination from the surface that didn’t get removed during the washing and drying phase. This can include both visible surface contamination and microscopic surface contamination (non-visible to naked eye). This will help properly prep the paint for the next steps of polishing and protecting. Until the end of the month we are running a special where you get a free 16oz Clay Lube with the purchase of 1 of these 4 clay bars. (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/index.php?cPath=23_24)

We all know that its difficult to get lighter colored to pop and really jump out at you compared to a darker colored vehicle. In order to do so you have to properly prep the clear coat free of imperfections. First step would be to clay bar the surface if needed, then proceed to polish away the imperfections. The best polish I've found to reduce imperfections and finish down the furthest is Menzerna PO106ff (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=486). On most vehicles I would recommend a 2 step polish to really bring out the paint, but on lighter colored vehicles, especially ones in good condition, you can get away with 1 polish instead of two. This is a little pricey up front but comparing a coat of this to two separate coats of say a medium polish and a finishing polish, it ends up being cheaper per coat. A bottle should last you roughly 10 coats of polish if not more. I'd suggest polishing twice a year (Spring and Fall) or as needed.

One step I really like to do on lighter colored vehicles is add a glaze. A glaze will add a coat of oils and clay fillers to help hide imperfections that were not able to be buffed out. Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=101) works great on lighter colored vehicles. This will add another layer of depth and gloss in the paint while temporarily making the paint look like its in better condition than it really is. This step helps add that wet look to lighter colored vehicles that is often difficult to achieve.

Afterwards, be sure to follow up with your favorite sealant and/or wax. I really like the look of Poorboy's EX-P (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=135) and P21s Concours Carnauba Wax (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=113)

With the exception of the P21s Concours Carnauba Wax which is hand applied, you would benefit from doing the rest of the steps with a Porter Cable buffer. We have a package put together called the Advanced Porter Cable Kit (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=406) which will give you everything you need to tackle any detail. This will give you the proper tools not only to save you time and energy but to give you better results.

We have step by step product directions specifically for each product here on Detailed Image's Directions Page (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/howtos_prod.php). I also encourage you to look at our Step by Step (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/howtos.php) walk thru for the entire detailing process to pick up some pointers on what each step is doing and how you will benefit from it.

I know this may be a lot to digest, so I'll be expecting some questions. That would be my ideal combination of products and techniques that I would use on prepping a silver colored show vehicle. I think it will come out stunning when done correctly.

vnv727 - Thank you for the positive feedback, we look forward to being an active member of AudiForum.com!

George @ Detailed Image

WOW what a great thread ! ! !:D

thanks for sharing your expertise w/ us...
I'm putting a link up in OT (in case there wasnt one allready ;))
you have some great work...

your'e a great resource to me since your'e familiar w/ the B5S4's :D

interior:
curious on how u do a basic routine clean up of the alcantara? I have the silverish / white
& its getting pretty dingy... I was always told - just lightly damp cloth & if needed
Mr Clean eraser bars.. do u recomended anything else??

exterior:
what is the best way to keep all the exterior trim / vinyl etc looking black...
including the hood grill, window trim etc....

& best remedy to get my brown brake dust caked tires looking clean?

THANKS AGAIN !

How do you guys go about getting salt out of upholstry? My black carpet is caked with white salt all around my floor mats. Not looking forward to trying to get it to come out... I've used citrus degreaser in the past, but it was always a lot of work.

Awesome!
I was wondering who to ask about getting these black streaks off my sliver paint. Stupid ice scrapers!
I've tried to clay bar them off... that didn't work.

Also, do you have a write up on wet sanding light scratches?
I'm so nervous to attempt this for the first time that I keep putting it off!

Any quick remedies for nasty wheel rash?

*sighs* ...If only I lived upstate!

ORIGINAL: headshok2002

How do you guys go about getting salt out of upholstry? My black carpet is caked with white salt all around my floor mats. Not looking forward to trying to get it to come out... I've used citrus degreaser in the past, but it was always a lot of work.
im with headshok on this one. i cleaned out my winter mats and ive got this ridge built up. its crusty and hard

okay, i have a good one.. what can i do with really really dried, baked, and all around permantly on pine sap.. on a black car (its been there for atleast 5 years)

ORIGINAL: i3uddha

WOW what a great thread ! ! !:D

your'e a great resource to me since your'e familiar w/ the B5S4's :D

interior:
curious on how u do a basic routine clean up of the alcantara? I have the silverish / white
& its getting pretty dingy... I was always told - just lightly damp cloth & if needed
Mr Clean eraser bars.. do u recomended anything else??

exterior:
what is the best way to keep all the exterior trim / vinyl etc looking black...
including the hood grill, window trim etc....

& best remedy to get my brown brake dust caked tires looking clean?

THANKS AGAIN !


Thank you so much for the positive feedback so far. It's greatly appreciated.

Alcantara can be a very delicate surface to maintain. Here are some links dedicated to Alcantara care directly from www.alcantara.com

Ordinary Maintenance (http://www.alcantara.com/en/experience/manutenzione/ordinaria/ordinaria.shtml) | General Washing Instructions (http://www.alcantara.com/en/experience/manutenzione/ordinaria/ordinaria.shtml) | Stain Removal (http://www.alcantara.com/en/experience/manutenzione/ordinaria/ordinaria.shtml)

I've heard a lot of people resort to the Mr. Clean Eraser. With any product, I'd recommend spot treating it in a small area before doing your entire seat with it just to play it safe. I've had good luck with 303's cleaners as well.

As far as your exterior trim is concerned, is it new trim that you want to keep looking new? So you'd be looking for a protectant. Or is it faded trim that needs to be restored? Let me know and I'll be happy to give my recommendations. 303 Aerospace Protectant (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=30) is great for maintaining new trim and preventing fading with its UV Protection. For restoring black trim, I like using Leatherique Rubber Dye (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=53) and for non-black trim Poorboy's World Trim Restorer (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=144). Keep in mind that most trim restorers are temporary fixes unless you are using a product that literally dyes the surface, like the Leatherique one mentioned above. Even with that, it takes multiple applications and proper care for it to effectively begin to permanently change colors.

To get your tires clean, you'll want to use a quality rubber cleaner or a degreaser. You also may want to use a bristled brush to agitate the surface, but be careful to not use the brush on your rims as it would add scratches and swirls, especially on a polished lip. Also, the rubber cleaner or degreaser may oxidize highly polished wheels, so do not use the product liberally so that it gets all over your nice wheels. I used Poorboy's Biodegradable APC (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=149) at our shop and diluted it down to 3:1 but like I said, I wouldn't recommend getting this product on the surface of high polished wheels.

Also, another thing you want to keep in mind is that silicone based tire dressings can cause your tires to discolor and brown easily. They also have a tendency to sling up onto your paint when applied liberally without being buffed off completely. I recommend a water based tire dressing which actually will get absorbed into the rubber and nourish the rubber with proper conditioners keeping the tire soft and flexible, rather than drying it out like some products can. Silicone based dressings primarily sit on the surface of the tire which is why you see the sling more often with silicone based dressings. Water based tire dressings do not last as long or give off as much gloss as a silicone based dressing. Just some extra things to consider.

Let me know about the trim and I can go into more detail on anything if you wish. Thanks again for the positive feedback!

George @ Detailed Image

ORIGINAL: headshok2002

How do you guys go about getting salt out of upholstry? My black carpet is caked with white salt all around my floor mats. Not looking forward to trying to get it to come out... I've used citrus degreaser in the past, but it was always a lot of work.


We had a high powered carpet extractor to handle salt stains. Took them out pretty effortlessly, but this is a $2000 professional piece of equipment. This is how I would go about removing salt stains by hand.

Equipment Recommended:
A firm bristle upholstery brush
Carpet or upholstery cleaner of choice
Spray bottle filled with hot water

Process:
1. First I'd take the firm brush to it and vacuum up any loose contamination.
2. I'd suggest spraying on the carpet cleaner and letting it sit for a couple of minutes or as the directions on the bottle recommend.
3. Prior to agitating the stain, mist the hot water onto the affected area.
4. Use the firm bristle brush again on the stain and give it some elbow grease.
5. Repeat until desired results are achieved
6. Vacuum (possibly using a wet / dry vac if a lot of water was used) up any loose debris

This is essentially creates the effect of a carpet extractor but by doing it all manually.

Afterwards, I would recommend protecting the carpets with a product like 303 High Tech Fabric Guard (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=36) or Scotch Guard to help prevent future stains from building up so much and making them difficult to remove.

Let us know how you make out with removing the stains and what worked for you.

George @ Detailed Image

ORIGINAL: ouTTie914

Awesome!
I was wondering who to ask about getting these black streaks off my sliver paint. Stupid ice scrapers!
I've tried to clay bar them off... that didn't work.

Also, do you have a write up on wet sanding light scratches?
I'm so nervous to attempt this for the first time that I keep putting it off!

Any quick remedies for nasty wheel rash?

*sighs* ...If only I lived upstate!


Good questions. I'm assuming the black streaks aren't scratches past the paint and showing primer or metal and is transfer from the scraper. If clay bar didn't work for you, the next logical step would be to use a light abrasive polish on it. Depending on if you plan on tackling this by hand or with a buffer would vary my product recommendation. You could try something like Meguiars ScratchX for a hand applied product that could be found at almost any local automotive store. The Poorboy's SSR line of polishes (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=SSR&search_in_ description=1&x=34&y=17&categories_id=29&inc_subca t=1&manufacturers_id=13&pfrom=&pto=&dfrom=&dto=) would be another choice for removing the marks by hand or the Menzerna line of polishes (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=+&search_in_de scription=1&x=48&y=8&categories_id=29&inc_subcat=1 &manufacturers_id=2&pfrom=&pto=&dfrom=&dto=) would be what I recommend to use with a buffer. Always start with the least aggressive polish to get the job done, rather than jumping into something that will remove more of your clear coat than needed.

Regarding the light scratches, have you already exhausted the abrasive polish route up to compounding? You certainly would want to do that before even attempting to wetsand. I can put something together on wetsanding if you like. I just picked up a new digital SLR and plan on documenting as much of the detailing process as I possibly can with it.

As far as curb rash on wheels, this is a great writeup on caring for them (ironically its on an Audi too).
Fixing Curb Rash (http://www.audiworld.com/tech/ext43.shtml)

If you have any questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

George

ORIGINAL: Lazer Viking

okay, i have a good one.. what can i do with really really dried, baked, and all around permantly on pine sap.. on a black car (its been there for atleast 5 years)


Great question - I tackle sap with a mix of 50/50 Water and Isopropyl Alcohol (found at a local drugstore)... if that doesn't do the trick, I usually mix in some Poorboy's Bio-APC (diluted 3:1) or another degreaser. I let the alcohol soak for 30 seconds to a minute and then proceed to pick at the top of the sap (not touching your paint with your nail). If you're lucky you'll remove a solid portion of the sap leaving you with just an outer ring, which can take some time and effort to completely remove.

I'll typically attack the ring with a clay bar first to remove as much contamination, then a light polish if needed. After doing these steps you will want to re-protect the area so you'll need to seal or wax the area you just worked on. Being that the sap has sat on the surface for 5 years, you may have some permanent damage underneath which should be addressed properly. Let me know if you need any help with that.

Hope this helps, good luck!

George

Wow, thanks alot for the feedback. You know your stuff and glad to see to see you share the information! I am about to order that stuff you have just mentioned to me now. I do not have enough spare cash to buy the Buffer.

Do you think i can do it by hand and get a good finish product?

Thanks again. Im ordering the products right now! I cant wait to do this job when the weather clears up!

ORIGINAL: Detailed Image

Regarding the light scratches, have you already exhausted the abrasive polish route up to compounding?Â* You certainly would want to do that before even attempting to wetsand.Â* I can put something together on wetsanding if you like.Â* I just picked up a new digital SLR and plan on documenting as much of the detailing process as I possibly can with it.



George.... YOU ROCK!

You are corrected about the ice scraper. I now plan on purchasing the polishes you recommended.
As far as the light scratches go. Well, most are swallow, there is one nasty little gouge that will most likely need filling.

I had no idea there were more steps to detailing the exterior besides wash, dry, clay bar, and waxing!
I will definitely try the polishing methods, after carefully studying at Detail University! :)
It's so disheartening after putting all the effort into doing the best to can to clean your car and still having to look at hideous scratches!

Needless to say, it's great having you around!

ORIGINAL: Lopster99

Wow, thanks alot for the feedback. You know your stuff and glad to see to see you share the information! I am about to order that stuff you have just mentioned to me now. I do not have enough spare cash to buy the Buffer.

Do you think i can do it by hand and get a good finish product?

Thanks again. Im ordering the products right now! I cant wait to do this job when the weather clears up!


Lopster99 - We greatly appreciate the support and feedback.

I think you will still achieve great results by hand, but keep in mind to truely break down the micro abrasive particles in the polish you need constant pressure and enough heat to break them down. It is a very tiresome process done by hand, but as long as your are ready, willing and abled you will get some great results and a sore arm! Keep us posted on how you make out, I'm excited to hear about your experience. Remember the prep work is the most important steps so spend the most time, washing, claying and polishing. The rest will fall into place once you have mastered those areas.

If you need any assistance along the way, I'm just an email, PM, or post away.

George

ORIGINAL: ouTTie914
George.... YOU ROCK!

I had no idea there were more steps to detailing the exterior besides wash, dry, clay bar, and waxing!
I will definitely try the polishing methods, after carefully studying at Detail University! :)
It's so disheartening after putting all the effort into doing the best to can to clean your car and still having to look at hideous scratches!

Needless to say, it's great having you around!


A little research and reading will get you pretty far with detailing. Detailing is an art form and you constantly learn to improve your process as you research and get more hands on experience. To this day I still am learning things, which is why I created Detail University around a school theme. Once you understand the detailing process and what is happening so with a little hard work and research, you'll probably be more knowledgable than your local "professional detailer". Knowing this information will help you choose the proper product to tackle the job. If you have any questions along the way I'd be more than happy to answer them for you.

Thank you once again for your praise.

George @ Detailed Image

George - thanks for the advice...[sm=smiley20.gif]


I guess my question oon the previous pg regarding the exterior trim of the S4 was for both instances...

I have a new Rs4 grill & Id like to keep it looking new & protect it..

I also have the window exterior trim which is in need of some rejuvenation.

Thanks again ...

ORIGINAL: i3uddha

George - thanks for the advice...[sm=smiley20.gif]

I guess my question oon the previous pg regarding the exterior trim of the S4 was for both instances...

I have a new Rs4 grill & Id like to keep it looking new & protect it..

I also have the window exterior trim which is in need of some rejuvenation.

Thanks again ...


I also had an RS4 front grill and I personally went with the new matte look of a water based dressing. I used 303 Aerospace Protectant (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=30), which is a great product because it is also the product I used to UV protect my dash, doors, consol and other plastic and vinyl areas of the vehicle. It also works great as an engine bay dressing and a no gloss new tire dressing. Very versatile product. Silicone based dressings that give off a higher gloss to them often will attract dust and other contamination making future cleaning of your grill a headache. I popped the grill right off when I applied the protectant and took a q-tip to the inner parts of the honeycomb looking grill.

Sorry to follow up with another question, but where specifically are you looking for help on your window trim? There are certain places that certain products shouldn't be used on, but others where it could be safe to use a dye like I mentioned before. For example, you wouldn't use the Leatherique Rubber Dye on your door seals, you would want to use the 303. Same with the window seals where the rubber hits the glass, you don't want to use a dye there either.

Hope this helps.

George

Hey George, I am waiting for my products to come in, i am so excited to see what my car will look like! I forgot to order the dispenser bottles[:@] Im annoyed, and i dont want to do another seperate transaction just for that so i will get some at a local store i hope!

I had a quick question, How do i get old wax off of rubber molding around the windows? I have quit a bit and i can't get it off for the life of me!

Also one more question if you don't mind, How do I get the cracks to dissapear or hide them on my leather seats. My driver seat isn't to bad but it does have some minor cracks that bother me. I was wondering if there is a product to "cover them up"

Thanks in advance, your a great help!
Dennis

ORIGINAL: Lopster99

Hey George, I am waiting for my products to come in, i am so excited to see what my car will look like! I forgot to order the dispenser bottles[:@] Im annoyed, and i dont want to do another seperate transaction just for that so i will get some at a local store i hope!

I had a quick question, How do i get old wax off of rubber molding around the windows? I have quit a bit and i can't get it off for the life of me!

Also one more question if you don't mind, How do I get the cracks to dissapear or hide them on my leather seats. My driver seat isn't to bad but it does have some minor cracks that bother me. I was wondering if there is a product to "cover them up"

Thanks in advance, your a great help!
Dennis


Dennis - We greatly appreciate the support, I'm excited to hear about your results. As far as the dispenser bottles are concerned, try your local dollar store, a beauty supply store, or an arts and crafts store. One of those places should have something for you.

As far as the old wax is concerned, try a combination of water and isopropyl alcohol (also found locally at any drug store). This will properly prep the surface and often helps remove old wax buildup.

For the creases in your leather, try laying a damp wash cloth over the leather during a hot sunny day. This will help expand your leather and can minimize some crease marks. Aside from that, you'd want to make sure you properly condition your leather regularly. You can also look into www.leatherique.com for some kits they have to fix leather. I haven't personally used them other than the Rejuvenator Oil and Prestine Clean that I stock but I've heard good things.

Keep us posted on how you make out with your detail! If you have any questions on anything, let me know.

George

Hmmmm George

I think u just answered my ?'s w/ that 303 aerospace protectant...
use it on external trim (honeycomb grill / foglight housing etc) as well as the black
that surrounds the exterior of the windows - I think Ill be staying away from the dyes -
but will defnietly be picking up some of that 303 from u soon...

seems like great stuff - u can use it on the plastic engine covers too?

Awsome thread, wish I had seen a bit sooner as I have been fighting an ongoing war with my GF's BMW's shitty paint. Spent 4 hours last weekend on just the meguirs step one deep cleaner. Every microfiber cloth or polishing pad i used would turn black, paint is starting to shine more though. and Jason I think for your tires most tire shines work pretty well at cleaning and keeping a wet look, The one with the plastic tire handle is the one i use most and it seems to work pretty well

ORIGINAL: i3uddha

Hmmmm George

I think u just answered my ?'s w/ that 303 aerospace protectant...
use it on external trim (honeycomb grill / foglight housing etc) as well as the black
that surrounds the exterior of the windows - I think Ill be staying away from the dyes -
but will defnietly be picking up some of that 303 from u soon...

seems like great stuff - u can use it on the plastic engine covers too?


I think you'll be pleased with it, I certainly liked the new look it gave as well as protected the surface. It works excellent as an engine bay dressing, here it is on my S4 before I sold it with 55k miles.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/detimg/AudiS4/engine.jpg

Those rubber pieces at the ends of the bi-pipes were stained from something, I could never get those to clean up. Should have done the upgraded hose kit hehe.

ADubyaD - Thanks for the positive feedback. If you have any questions, let me know.

George

George, Ive got a pesky stain on my Y pipe. Im not sure what it is, but it might be oil and some dust in it. Is it okay to try to use some rubbing alcohol or some engine degreaser on a paper towel?

ORIGINAL: votblindub

George, Ive got a pesky stain on my Y pipe. Im not sure what it is, but it might be oil and some dust in it. Is it okay to try to use some rubbing alcohol or some engine degreaser on a paper towel?


Yep, a degreaser and a towel (doesn't have to be microfiber) should work just fine. Paper towel may tear on you pretty easily but you can certainly give it a shot. Let me know how you make out.

George

the work is awesome for the right car $£000000000000000 but a silly concept for the average car but its a business so well done ( or your punters have been well done or deserve it;)) well done:)

George, I have a question on polishing the interior trim pieces around my geat shift... it really just looks dull and could use soemthign to shine it up... probably from people putting things on it and such for the last few years..

Kyle

ORIGINAL: qttrcoupe
George, I have a question on polishing the interior trim pieces around my geat shift... it really just looks dull and could use soemthign to shine it up... probably from people putting things on it and such for the last few years..
Kyle


Kyle - is there any chance you could take a picture or dig up a picture of the piece you are referring to? I want to make sure I recommend the proper products / procedures for the specific area you are referring to. Sometimes people have different trim pieces, I remember the S4 had the wood option, carbon fiber option and another one if I'm not mistaken, not to mention aftermarket trim pieces.

George

wow - clean engine bay = [sm=hail.gif]

Thanks again for the advise George!

George
Here it is... the camera on my phone was set to B&W but if you need color I'll go back out and get one, It is the pieces that looks like wood... but I believe is actually plastic... (judging by another scratch somewhere else on it) it is just dull and needs polished somehow to restore that gloss to it like most fo the other pieces that are on the doos and dash are like.

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t38/qttrcoupe/IMAGE_00003.jpghttp://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t38/qttrcoupe/IMAGE_00002.jpg

George, Thanks so much for recomending those products! I recieved them yesterday morning and great packing by the way!

I washed my car with the Poorboy's super suds and my new sheepskin wash mit and let me tell you! This stuff is awesome just the wash made my car shine alot and the waffle weave drying cloth is amazing, i never had to once ring it out!

I will be waxing and all that good stuff this weekend! I cant wait, so far i am soo pleased with this stuff! Oh yea, the Poorboy tire shine is awesome too!

Best 210.00 i spent on my car yet!

Thanks!

Dennis

Dennis - Great to hear that you have had a pleasant experience with our business. I greatly appreciate the feedback. I constantly am trying to refine our product selection to offer anyone a great detail no matter what they order from our site. I am looking forward to hearing about your results with everything!

Keep us posted.

George

Great thread.

Earlier you recommended quick detailing sprays for use between washes. Now I want to get down to the real dirt: what would you do if you had no place to hand-wash your own car? I'm an apartment dweller where there's a strict no-wash no-repair policy in the lot, and the local pressure-wash coin-ops have "No Buckets/No Hand-washing" signs posted. What to do?

qttrcoupe - Thanks for the pics, that accurately gives me an idea on what you were referring to. I would recommend trying something like ScratchX and/or PlasticX from Meguiars or another really fine polish. Something like Final Polish II or PO106ff would do the trick and also work wonders on your paint. Basically you need a polish with micro abrasives to smooth out those dips and valleys, aka scratches and swirls.

ORIGINAL: scottburton11

Great thread.

Earlier you recommended quick detailing sprays for use between washes. Now I want to get down to the real dirt: what would you do if you had no place to hand-wash your own car? I'm an apartment dweller where there's a strict no-wash no-repair policy in the lot, and the local pressure-wash coin-ops have "No Buckets/No Hand-washing" signs posted. What to do?


Great question. There are a few products out there that can be used as a waterless wash. One of them is Poorboy's Spray & Wipe (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=139) and another popular one is Optimum No-Rinse. Both have slightly different methods to them when using them as a waterless wash. The Spray & Wipe would be used similar to a quick detailer but you would mist 6 - 7 sprays per section, let it sit for 30 seconds to a minute or so. Here is a nice writeup on how to use the product on the Poorboy's World Forum (http://www.poorboysworld.net/board/viewtopic.php?t=73).

The Optimum No-Rinse uses water but you do not need a hose source. I did some quick searching but found this mini-write up on the Optimum Forums for you to see how to use it. Optimum No-Rinse Useage (http://optimumforums.org/index.php?showtopic=147)

I'd say the Optimum is more ideal for dirtier cleanings and the Spray & Wipe would be used for a little more than a light dusting or less.

Let me know if this makes sense after reading those writeups. I'd be happy to answer any other questions you may have.

George

My paint, i have a 2003 that is dolphin gray, when i run my hands over it mostly the sides feel nice and smooth, but when i get to the trunk, hood, and one quarter panel, the paint feels rough, even though it stil looks as shiny as the rest of the car. is this some kind of oxidation? i live in maine and it wasformerly anew jersey car. im thinking it is from pollution, but what can i put on it to bring basck the feel of smoothness?
~kylie

ORIGINAL: kyliefrancois

My paint, i have a 2003 that is dolphin gray, when i run my hands over it mostly the sides feel nice and smooth, but when i get to the trunk, hood, and one quarter panel, the paint feels rough, even though it stil looks as shiny as the rest of the car. is this some kind of oxidation? i live in maine and it wasformerly anew jersey car. im thinking it is from pollution, but what can i put on it to bring basck the feel of smoothness?
~kylie


Kylie - Great question. Typically what happens is over time you'll have a build up of contamination that won't be removed with your normal washing and drying procedures. From the sounds of it, you have some contamination building up that isn't necessarily visible to the naked eye but can be felt when gliding a towel or wash mitt over the paint. What you can do is use a clay bar to help remove this contamination in order to restore the slick, contamination free surface from your vehicle.

Clay can be found at your local automotive stores and come in a variety of sizes. To be honest with you, there are only a few clay manufacturers so most of them perform the same. Typically speaking they will come in 50g, 80g, 100g and 200g sized bars. I recommend using between 30 - 50 gram pieces of clay per vehicle. The clay bars we stock are 200g bars, which means we recommend cutting them up into 4 - 6 equal sized sections so that if you potentially drop a piece of clay, you don't have to worry about ruining your entire bar and can throw that piece out. Once clay hits the ground, it should never touch your paint because you can easily add imperfections such as scratches and swirls.

We are running a special on our homepage for clay bars, where if you purchase one of these 200g bars (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/index.php?cPath=23_24) for $24.99 we are including a 16oz bottle of Clear Kote Quik Shine which can be used as clay lube or a quick detailer.

Claying your paint is also the perfect time to assess your paint for imperfections such as swirls and scratches, and follow up with the proper polish to correct them. The reason why is because this will be the time your paint is clear of contamination and you will get the best results out of your polish, sealant or wax, since you aren't using those products over the contamination.

We have put together a helpful piece of information describing the clay bar process (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/howtos.php?p=claybar) as well as step-by-step how-to's on properly claying your vehicle (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/howtos.php?p=claybar2). I encourage you to read up on them prior to using a clay bar on your vehicle.

If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

George

Hey I have recieved all my products and must say i love the way my car turned out!

After about 7 hours of hand polishing the entire car it looks amazing!!!!!!!!!

Thanks so much!!

Let me know what you think.. advice?..

Thanks

Dennis

I hate how the pictures i can never get them into the site without having the stupid link!

But here is a few more pictures!

Im not the best picture guy neither soo.. hope they are ok!

Dennis - I can tell the car came out great. Pics 3 and 4 are your best shots, especially pic 4 where you look between the wheels and it looks like a mirror. I'm glad you got the results you were looking for with the products you picked up.

For some helpful picture tips, check out this thread on shooting pictures of detailed vehicles (http://www.detailuniversity.com/forums/school-photography/803-photographing-cars.html).

The biggest benefit your see from here on out is that your vehicle should be much easier to maintain now.

Once again, we greatly appreciate your support.

George

Hey guys -My recently purchased 02 A6 was previously driven by a woman who didn't really care much about the interior. It's not in bad shape by any means, but it's also fairly dirty...lots of stains, nicks, etc. I've tried Lexol Ph Cleaner for the seats, got some stuff off, but not the deeper stains. (Funny, I'd figured black was easier to clean). Was curious - should I be using a brush instead of a sponge, or would you recommend I switch to your recommended brand?Also, is there any particularly good way to clean the seatbelts? Now those are really filthy...I think there were both kids being hauled around and lots of ski stuff back there.Nice work in general, and thanks for the tips.

old64mb - thank you for the positive feedback, it is appreciated.

As far as your leather is concerned, if you'd like to try some new products we have our best leather care combo on sale this month, Leatherique Prestine Clean and Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=245) for $10 off its normal bundled price.

Leatherique is a unique product and is applied differently than other leather care products. This is how I would apply the products to get the most out of your Leatherique.

1. Vacuum seats thoroughly and wipe down with a damp towel to ensure all loose debris is removed prior to working the product.
2. Apply Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil by hand and massage into the leather or leatherette, using generous amounts to the stitching and cracked areas
3. Allow Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil to sit on your seats for up to 24 hours, we suggest parking the vehicle in the sun to create a sauna effect while the product is penetrating your seats.
3a. Multiple applications may be required for hardened and discolored leather.
4. Apply Prestine Clean directly onto the seats with a terry cloth applicator pad, using generous amounts around stitching and cracked areas
5. Allow Prestine Clean to penetrate leather for 15 – 30 minutes
6. Remove Prestine Clean with a warm damp cloth towel
7. Buff completely dry with a new dry cloth towel

I'd suggest applying Leatherique Prestine Clean every 3 - 4 months for optimal conditioning and preserving your leather and leatherette. The Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil should be done one to two times a year or as needed. For regular maintenance cleanings, just a damp cloth followed by a dry cloth.

This will leave you with a beautiful matte finish and soft and supple leather. This is as good as it gets when it comes to leather care.

For your seatbelts, I'd recommend an All Purpose Cleaner / Degreaser diluted to the manufacturers recommended ratio. For a product readily available at local department stores, try to get ahold of some FOLEX (http://www.folexcompany.com/). This seems to be a popular item among detailers that can be found locally. I use Poorboy's Biodegradable APC (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=149) for stubborn stains like you are describing along with a small scrub brush to agitate the surface. It also works great as an engine degreaser, tire cleaner, wheel well cleaner and more. I typically use it diluted 3:1 with water and have stronger versions available when needed. You could try the FOLEX on your leather too, but keep in mind it will not condition it and restore it to the soft and supple feel it deserves.

Hope this helps. Let us know how you make out with everything.

George

A couple of questions I have for you george.
I have a2001 black a4 and wanted to know what would be the best steps as far as what order and what kind of cleaning, polishes, claybar, waxes, I should use,Im really getting into trying to really learn and properly care for my car.I do a good job as it is with my meguirs but I just want to step it up another level of car care.

Also I have like 50 dollar orbital cleaner that i have from pep boys A)Is this really helpful or do i actually need a porter cable. I know the porter is better but is using the cleaner i have better than by hand is what im asking. B)If the orbital is fine what kind of bonnets should i purchase.

I know Ill have some more questions for you but ill just get started off with these so far:D
thanks alot,

bill

Bill - Great questions. I'd like to hear more about the condition of your vehicle (specifically the imperfections, like swirl marks, water spots, scratches, etc.) before I can properly give you the best recommendations for your vehicle. Typically the lesser expensive buffers are fine for applying a glaze, sealant or wax, but are ineffective at removing imperfections. What happens is that the cheaper buffers will bog down under pressure or will not generate enough heat to properly break down an abrasive polish, which is what you need to have happen to get the most out of polishing. If you are content with the condition of the clear coat, then you'd be fine with what you have. If you're trying to correct the imperfections, I'd recommend investing in the PC.

One of the problems with certain buffers is that you should use a seperate pad for each product, and sometimes the proprietary pads that are sold on some of the cheaper buffers are expensive and hard to find. This is another major benefit the PC has over other buffers, you can purchase a velcro backing plate, and use a wide variety of pads available.

Once I hear a little more about the condition of your vehicle and what you are trying to accomplish, I'd be happy to put together a package to best fit your needs. Also, let me know which of the following traits are most important to you... results, ease of use, value and time saving.

Look forward to hearing back from you.

George

Need help.

Hi, I used the clay bar and mothers pre wax cleaner to get rid of quite a lot of the oxidation. Can you please tell me what I should use next (specific product, procedure) to get rid of the rest of the oxidation. Hood is smooth, but quite a bit of oxidation remains.

Thanks

NB

local://upfiles/9627/9C71CAD3C7B546989F881B487C3A278B.jpg

local://upfiles/9627/4D13C92E0D7D4EA888B84A0A323955A6.jpg

local://upfiles/9627/93B6444C52D646FE88A4AD7AF369CEB8.jpg

Next step would be to use a light abrasive polish. First thing you'd want to decide on is if you want to tackle this by hand or with a quality buffer, such as the Porter Cable 7424. If you go by hand, I'd recommend trying Meguiars ScratchX which can be found locally at PepBoy's, AutoZone, etc. If this doesn't do the trick, you'll want to step up to a more aggressive product / pad combination, in which I'd recommend looking in investing in a quality buffer to do the job. Let me know if you'd like some more information on that.

George

Hey George,

I read your instructions on how to detail and I was eager to detail my newly purchase A4. I was going to be ordering from Detailed Image but wanted to have the products in my hand as I wanted to try our your methods right then and there. I used some other brands but the same methods that you described in your instructions ... and I must say that the results were incredible!!! I couldn't believe that the shine and mirror like finish was possible, especially for a first timer!

I'll definitely be ordering from you and I love the detailed instructions on your site!!! Many thanks and below are some pictures of how my A4 looks :)

http://www.raymundo.us/images/Blu/DSC02583.jpg

http://www.raymundo.us/images/Blu/DSC02584.jpg

http://www.raymundo.us/images/Blu/DSC02585.jpg

http://www.raymundo.us/images/Blu/DSC02586.jpg

http://www.raymundo.us/images/Blu/DSC02587.jpg

http://www.raymundo.us/images/Blu/DSC02588.jpg

http://www.raymundo.us/images/Blu/DSC02589.jpg

http://www.raymundo.us/images/Blu/DSC02590.jpg

http://www.raymundo.us/images/Blu/DSC02591.jpg

http://www.raymundo.us/images/Blu/DSC02592.jpg

http://www.raymundo.us/images/Blu/DSC02593.jpg

http://www.raymundo.us/images/Blu/DSC02594.jpg

hey guys..nice job...i have a quick question for u... i run a detailling shop too and a lot of times cars come infrom auctions with dried waxall over the rubbers and trims....i used all kinds of products some work some dosn't but im not sure cuz a barely have time to check them days later... whats the best way to get it off completely?? i'll post some pics of my shop later..thkns

flipkid - great work! This just goes to show how much more important the process is over the products used. I like to think that 70-80% of the results is due to using the proper process and techniques while the other remaining 20-30% can be enhanced by higher quality products, all depending on your detailing goals and objectives of course. I'm glad you found our website helpful. If you'd like any suggestions when you are ready to try some new products for your black Audi, I'd be happy to give them to you, just say the word. Which steps were done in the pictured detail? Great to hear from you and thanks for sharing, I enjoy hearing back from our readers.

a4BRZLowrider - I usually use a mixture of Isopropyl Alcohol and water (50:50), sometimes if that doesn't work, I'll mix in some degreaser too. Some areas may need agitation from a soft bristled brush. You can always try the old peanut butter trick too, hehe. Looking forward to your pictures of your shop.

George

Hey George,

First I did the wash and dry - using the two bucket method. I only had
one sheep skin mitt, so I used a regular car washing sponge as well. I
used some terry cloth towels along with some microfiber towels to dry.
After the wash and rinse, I applied a liquid clar bar then rinsed it off.
Then I went ahead and applied a polish and buffed it out using a
microfiber towel. After the polish I put on a wax and buffed the wax
out until there was a nice shine.

I started to notice the shine come through after rinsing the clay bar off,
and it progressively got shinier with each step.

One thing about the detailing was that after the mirrorlike shine comes
through you start to notice more imperfections on the car - such as small
dents, scratches, etc. How would one fix these minor imperfections?

Also, for cleaning the windows of the car, what would you recommend?

I appreciate your help! Thanks again!

I have a 2001 black f-150 and there are a few problems with the paint that i hoped i coulf fix but i dont know how...but i am willting to try pretty much anything. I dont have pictues now but i can get some. One of the main things is the hood there are what i think to be cracks in the clear coat and they kind of like spider webs. the only thing i have been able to do is cover it up with a colored wax. The clear coat on the roof is also coming off there are big spots of clear coat flaking off i dono if i can do anything about that short of getting it re clear coated. and the last thing is there was an incident with a power spayer that took a prety big chip out of clear coat. and i dont know if i can just clear coat that spot or what i can do. so any ideas you have would be greatly apreciated. i can get pictures when it is light out tommarrow.

here is a picture of the problem that i was talking about on the hood of my truck.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h133/chipdog805/0601071206.jpg

ORIGINAL: flipkid
One thing about the detailing was that after the mirrorlike shine comes
through you start to notice more imperfections on the car - such as small
dents, scratches, etc. How would one fix these minor imperfections?

Also, for cleaning the windows of the car, what would you recommend?

I appreciate your help! Thanks again!


Routine looked good flipkid. As far as the dents, scratches, etc. you can either decide to tackle that yourself or take it to a professional. I do not deal much with paint touch ups or body repair so I won't have too much to offer there. You are right, a fresh detail can bring out those imperfections.

For regular glass maintenance, I use Stoner's Invisible Glass (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=121) with a combination of 3 MF towels... 2 general purpose ones and 1 glass specific one. The first general purpose one I use to apply the product and work it into the glass. The second one I follow up with and remove almost all of the product and get it nearly streak free, then I follow up with the low nap glass microfiber towel (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=111) to ensure there is no streaking left behind. The nice thing about the Stoner's is you can use it both on your interior and exterior and it is safe to use on tinted windows as well.

I apologize for the delayed reply.

chipdog805 - Unfortunately I don't have a definite answer for your and your truck. From the looks of the picture, I think the best you are going to get is hiding it temporarily until you get the area repainted. You can try a light abrasive polish and see if that starts to help, but I doubt it. It would help with all of the light scratches and swirls I see around it though, so it may be worth doing. Continue using the wax that helps fill it in or use a glaze, then seal it in.

i have an 06 a3 white what is the best car wash and what should i use to clean the dashboard?


thank you very much for your help.

brian

I personally like Poorboy's Super Slick and Suds (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=124) and P21s Bodywork Conditioning Shampoo (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=29) is a great shampoo but IMO not worth the extra cost over the Poorboy's one.

For an interior cleaner, 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=38) is a great all purpose cleaner that is used for vinyl, plastic, rubber, leather, carpets and more. Keep in mind tha this is just a cleaner and not a UV protectant. 303 Aerospace Protectant (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=30) is a great product for a bold matte apperance as well as providing UV protection for your vinyl and rubber. If you are looking for a 1 step product that cleans and protects, Poorboy's World Natural Look (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=143) is your best bet. It cleans, provides UV protection and smells great for your interior. It is not as versatile as the 303 products seperately, but works great for interior dash cleaning.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

George

Hey George, I'm getting my saab back tomorrow and its a 94....its black(see my sig) and has alot of swirls and such in the paint...now im sure i could tackle the job myself but i dont have a buffer and simply dont have time for a weekends worth of handwork to get her back......so how much, would you say it should cost to have someone detail the car get out all the swirls etc....sorry for the vaguness but its late and im too lazy too type much more[8D]

It really depends on the available detailers in your area. Usually when you find a quality detailer they know their services are worth a lot more than their competition and are not afraid to charge a premium. One of the top detailers in the world is Kevin Hamill (goes by Picus on forums) from GTA in Detail (http://www.gtaindetail.com) and charges $450 for multi step compounding. This may sound steep but Kevin delivers a flawless finish virtually every time.

When I was doing service for customers our multi step compounding started at $240. I think a quality detailer who truly can remove your imperfections I'd expect to pay at least $175 for swirl removal. There are some quality detailers out there though that do not know how to value their work or they are just trying to under cut their competition and do work at a low cost but they are few and far between.

What part of NY are you in? I could see if I could help track someone down for you.

George

Mhhmmm honestly I could see 200 but not much more...its a 13 year old saab after all.....still id appreciate your help if u could recommend some good guys in the Orange County area, its in lower ny about an hour north of NYC

later mate, and thanks for the quick reply:)

wow! this man is a genius! i have a b6 a4, in the classic "audi blue". i basically want the same thing as lopster, my car to shine like a show car. i would say my paint is about an 8 as well. are there any other things you would reccomend for my color? or could i essentially follow what you said to lopster? any help is much appreciated, thanks.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x179/jojoampt/DSC00506-1.jpg

jojoampt - The only thing I'd change on an car of your color is using a wax that looks slightly better on blues, such as Poorboy's World Natty's Blue Paste wax (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=138), which we actually have on sale for $9.99 ... over 35% off its regular price until the end of June. Other than that, I think you'd get amazing results with what I laid out for Lopster.

Let me know if you have any questions on anything. If you are ready to order, don't forget to use the Audi Forums discount code, 10offAF

George

what would you use to clean alcantara??

George;

I have a few questions about wax & sealant longevity:

1. Everyone says waxes last a few weeks, maximum. Where does it actually go? Does it evaporate? Come off in the wash? Stripped off by fairies at 2am?

2. Sealants (polymer, etc.) are said to last longer, 3-6 months. Where does it go? Does it weaken and strip off over time? Does it weaken in a linear fashion?

3. People speak of using dish soap and other compounds to "remove" wax while washing. Is it really necessary to remove wax/sealant before re-waxing/sealing? How can you tell if it's gone?

4. Some polishes, compounds and "paint cleaners" advertise their ability to remove old wax. Do all polishes work this way? Do they remove sealants too?

Thanks

For alcantera cleaning, this is what is recommended straight from Alcantara's site:

General Washing:
To preserve the beauty of Alcantara®, we recommend that you clean the fabric regularly, avoiding energetic scrubbing and the use of steaming equipment.

For car upholstery you can use specific products, or - if they are not on hand - dust it with a soft cloth or sponge dampened with clean water. Wring it out well and clean all Alcantara® fabric, taking care not to wet the upholstery too deeply; dampen the cloth in clean water, wipe again, and allow to dry well overnight. The rejuvenate the fabric by brushing it delicately with a soft-bristled brush.

Stain Removal:
For smaller stains, if specific products are not on hand, follow these instructions.

- Act immediately, within 30 minutes of the stain's formation.
- First, remove the substance which has been spilled with a spoon or plastic spatula, if it is dense (yoghurt, jam, etc.), or with a white paper towel or sponge if it is liquid.
- Never pour the cleaning product directly on the fabric; rather, use a white cloth or a well-wrung sponge (rinse in clean water each time after wiping and wring out well).
- Try to reduce the stain by working from the edge towards the centre; do not scrub hard, otherwise it could spread or penetrate more deeply.

Depending on the type of stain, you can use water, lemon juice, or pure ethyl alcohol (grain alcohol) as a stain removal agent. Please read the treatment instructions below.

Water-soluble stains:
- Fruit juice, jam, gelatine, syrup, ketchup: lukewarm water; rinse by blotting with clean water.
- Blood, egg, feces, urine: cold water (avoid warm water, which could coagulate these substances); rinse by blotting with clean water.
- Liquor, wine, beer, Coca-Cola, tea: lukewarm water; treat any traces of colour with lemon juice, then rinse well.
- Copying pencil, cocoa, chocolate, custard and chocolate sweets, ice cream, mustard: lukewarm water; rinse by blotting with clean water.
- Vinegar, hair gel, tomato sauce, coffee sweetened with sugar: lemon juice, then lukewarm water; rinse by blotting with clean water.

NON-water-soluble stains:
- Lipstick, foundation, mascara, eye shadow, perfume, shoe polish, oil and grease, grass stains, markers (including permanent markers): blot with ethyl alcohol, then water, and rinse. Grass and marker stains, especially on light-coloured fabric, must be treated as soon as possible to keep them from drying.
- Chewing gum and wax: put ice in a plastic bag and set it on the stain; when the substance hardens, chip it away, then treat with ethyl alcohol.

Stubborn stains:
Try repeating the treatments described several times; even stains which are not water-soluble often require subsequent treatment with water.

Old stains of unknown origin:
First treat with lukewarm water, then rinse by blotting with clean water.
If you see the stain begin to dissolve, repeat the treatment; let dry, and if necessary, treat with ethyl alcohol.

ScottBurton11, good questions.

1. Everyone says waxes last a few weeks, maximum. Where does it actually go? Does it evaporate? Come off in the wash? Stripped off by fairies at 2am?

One of the reasons why wax doesn't last quite as long as a sealant is because it doesn't bond as well to the clear coat as a synthetic sealant does. A lot of factors determine the life of a wax: Exposure to elements: rain, sleet, snow, excessive sunlight, strong winds even
How many washes you subject the wax to. Every time you wash your vehicle you will remove some wax due to the friction, soap and contamination embedded in the wax being removed. Improper washing has a much bigger toll on waxes, like using a water blade, taking it to a bristled car wash, etc. Miles driven. The more you drive it the more you expose your vehicle to the elements.
Heat is a big one, especially when you have a dark colored vehicle and you are in a climate with warm weather. I usually do not recommend a wax in these climates, unless it is for a special event, like a car show. Using too strong of a cleaner, like a dish detergent like Dawn, using a polish, alcohol, vinegar, etc. This is important when you are trying to remove sap, tar, or other stubborn contamination, keep in mind you'll be stripping off the protection that is on the paint. These are just some of the main factors, there are plenty of others. As far as where does the wax go, it really just fades away over time into the atmosphere unless it was removed due to friction. Keep in mind, a layer of wax is so microscopic, it doesn't take too much for it to go away. Assuming the variables were constant, meaning keeping it in a garage and never driving it, washing it, exposing it to the elements, it should fade in a linear fashion, but as we all know this is not likely. My best guess is that as the wax nears the end of it's life, some of the factors can have a bigger impact than when the wax was just applied.

2. Sealants (polymer, etc.) are said to last longer, 3-6 months. Where does it go? Does it weaken and strip off over time? Does it weaken in a linear fashion?

Same factors apply to the sealants as well. They "bond" better by cross linking the molecules giving it longer durability than a wax. These are good questions and I plan on posting them up on Detail University for others to view and comment on.

3. People speak of using dish soap and other compounds to "remove" wax while washing. Is it really necessary to remove wax/sealant before re-waxing/sealing? How can you tell if it's gone?

Depending on what you are doing, it can be important to remove what is left. For example, say you are a detailer who uses a sealant and a wax on top. If you are trying to reapply a coat of sealant, then it is important to remove what is left on the paint because if there are any remains of the wax, and you apply the sealant over the wax, you bond to the wax and only have the durability of the wax left on the paint. If you only had a wax on the paint, and you're adding another coat of wax, then it is not important to remove the old wax. Same goes for sealant on sealant.

4. Some polishes, compounds and "paint cleaners" advertise their ability to remove old wax. Do all polishes work this way? Do they remove sealants too?

Virtually any true polish should remove previous coats of protection. What I mean by a true polish is some companies throw in the word polish, when in fact it is not a polish, like Zaino Z-2 is a polymer sealant, not a polish in the true sense of the word. Here are some things that can be used to remove old sealants and waxes:
* Water / Isopropyl Alcohol Mixture
* Water / Vinegar Mixture
* Wash w/ Dawn (or another dish detergent)
* Clay Bar
* Polish with an abrasive polish
* Polish with a chemical cleaner
* Using a 1 step product like a "cleaner wax" or an "All In One" will strip off previous protection and leave you with a fresh coat of wax or sealant

Let me know if you'd like me to go in more depth with anything covered. Like I said, I'll try to dig up some more scientific info on what really happens to the sealants or waxes.

http://www.detailuniversity.com/forums/talking-detail/1198-what-actually-happens-sealants-waxes-over-time.html

George

Hey Everyone, great idea on the thread and thankyou for the information,

I do however have a question:

I have recently purchased a Lava Grey A3 S-line and the sales guy is trying to get me to go with the supaguard extra. I had it on my last A3 (Phantom Black) which made it quite easy to clean and they gave me some high quality wax which was great but,

Is Supaguard worth it?
Is there an alternative? (i dont mind putting some work into it)
I have heard some wax can be quite abrasive, is this true?

Thanks
Steve

Steve,

I'd recommend skipping the dealership offer protection. You would be much better off prepping your own vehicle at a fraction of the cost along with much higher quality results. How much is the dealership trying to charge for their protection? I'm assuming $1,000 or more. Their process is no better than you applying a quality sealant no matter what they try to tell you. I've heard some dealerships try to tell people they don't have to wax their car for 5 years. From my experience, there are hardly any products that make it past the 6 month mark (some will under the right conditions).

Any pure wax is non-abrasive. There may be a few cleaner waxes as they are called, or all in one products, that try to correct imperfections while protecting the paint at the same time. These products are fine for saving time, but the results are not nearly as good as if you are using a seperate polish and a seperate wax. This would be the only time there may be abrasives in the wax. What you may have it confused with is that swirls and imperfections can happen when waxing IF: 1) your applicator is contaminated 2) the surface has not been properly prepped during the washing and claying phase 3) you use a non-paint safe towel when removing the product. So if you have a new applicator, you properly prepped the paint and removed any contamination on the surface, you will not create any imperfections when waxing your paint (unless you are grinding the pad into the paint which should be common sense not to). Make sure you remove any product with a quality microfiber towel and you should be fine.

I encourage you to fully prep your own vehicle for optimal results. Here is a great thread to get you started if you are interested in reading about properly prepping your own new car (http://www.detailuniversity.com/forums/lessons-detailing/933-doing-your-own-new-car-prep.html). I'd be happy to put together a package based on your needs to get the most out of your new A3 S-line. Caring for it properly from day 1 is the best thing you can do and will save you a lot of time and energy in the future, potentially correcting imperfections that the dealer was kind enough to add in your paint.

For some further reading on the detailing process, read through some of these helpful detailing how-to's (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/howtos.php).

Let me know if you have any questions on anything.

George

Hi George

Thanks for taking the time to reply to me. I have over the weekend used the little wax i had left from my previous cars supaguard package, which is 'ok' but im out of wax now, out of alloy cleaner and have no interior products or glass cleaner at all.

The garage are trying to charge me £250 (as i live in the uk), so, if you could put me together a package, assuming you deliver to uk, that would be great. Assume i have nothing (as i basically dont). I started off more concerned about the outside of the car having never had a previous car with leather, however i am reading a fair amount on 'you need to look after the leather' as well, so whatever you recommend i will look into.

Thanks in advance
Steve

Steve,

We ship all over the world.

I'll be shooting you a PM for a package to fit your needs. Look for it in a few minutes.

George

Thanks for addressing my questions about wax/sealant, George.

Can you give us some tips on dealing with windows? I have two scenarios on my hands:

1. Older car, 5-7 years old. Windows are badly damaged by water etching.
2. New car, windows in perfect shape.

I've tried hand polishing the etched windows with a light polish to little effect. Thought I'd ask around before trying with the PC.

Can a normal paint polish be used on windows? Are spray waxes/sealants at all useful on glass?

I just wanted to add that I have been following this thread as a lurker and decided to order some product from Detailed Image to detail the black A4 I have. I spent a few hours detailing my car today following George's step-by-step instructions andthe results were very satisfying. I've been detailing cars for some years now, but I learned a lot from this thread and George's advice. Black cars are difficult to keep shining, but mine is now.

Thank you!

scottburton11,

Regarding the neglected windows. Try using a mixture of water and distilled vinegar (50/50). This will remove any mineral / calcium deposits that are often left behind in water spots. If that does work, you can try a cream glass polish, such as Glass Scrub (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=49).

If neither of those do the trick, you'll have to resort to something more aggressive, which at that point I'd recommend seeking the advice from a professional. You do not want to risk making your glass worse for visibility reasons / liability, and to really put a dent in removing imperfections such as pitting, scratches, swirls in glass, you need a rotary buffer that spins 10k+ RPMs.

For regular maintenance on your glass, I typically will prep the outside windows with the Glass Scrub mentioned above at least once a season (or as needed) and follow up with Stoner's Invisible Glass (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=121) for regular maintenance. Best way to get a streak free shine is I use 3 towels. 2 general purpose microfiber towels (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=110) and 1 glass specific microfiber towel (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=111) with a low nap. The way I use them is I'll mist a quick spray of Stoner's onto my first general purpose towel to apply the product. Thinner is better, the less product on the glass the better chance of a streak free finish. I'll use the second general purpose to wipe away 90+% of the excess product, moving slowly and overlapping each pass. I'll finish up with the glass specific microfiber towel, again wiping slow and applying some pressure, which should leave you with a streak free finish.

You can apply a sealant or wax to the glass to have it sheet off the water / contamination easily. Ideally, you want to prep the surface with something like the Glass Scrub prior to application for best results. Typical waxes do not usually hold up as well as a synthetic sealant because of the pressure from the blades, it strips off protectant rather effortlessly. A good combo to try out if you're interested in the Glass Scrub is this glass kit (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=51), with the GS and Rain Clear Gel, which is like RainX on steroids.

Let us know if that water / vinegar mixture does anything on the water spots.

bagherra - Great to hear you are getting better results using some tips you picked up from this forum. If you have any questions on anything please do not hesitate to ask. We greatly appreciate your support of Detailed Image. Post some pictures if you can of some of your work!

George

Hi George,
Here are some pix of the A4 and 996 post detail. It was a lot of hard work - 7-8 hours for both cars combined, but I'm happy with the results.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Bagherra/IMG_4885.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Bagherra/IMG_4881.jpg

Reflection of the sky on the A4 bonnet:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Bagherra/IMG_4880.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Bagherra/IMG_4886.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Bagherra/IMG_4890.jpg

bagherra - Thanks for sharing the pictures of your work. You can definitely tell that you put a lot of time and effort into the vehicles. Great job on the details!

George

Quick n' Brite, for everything

George,
I think you did a quick write-up on rim repair...I couldn't find it. I recently had my stock rims replaced with repro-RS4 rims. I love them and they look really good on the car (some KW coilovers are next), but unfortunately the local Discount Tire scratched one (they won't admit it, I gave up arguing with them) near the lip. The scratch is small but noticeable up close, likely just needs some touch up paint (it's not curb rash). Is there a good place to get some touch up paint for rims? I like PaintScratch for car touch-up paint, but I'd be guessing at the color for rims.
Thanks.

Here's one of the best wheel repair writeup's I've seen...

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/ext43.shtml

Let us know if you give it a shot and how you make out.

George

George,

I just bought an A3 Sline over the weekend in Brilliant Red, I know its not a pearl or metallic so i was wondering what I should use to give it a deep wet gloss. Also I have aluminium trim inside, what should I clean that with and is there anything to protect it. Thanks in advance for your help.

Rob

Rob,

Good questions. First thing I'd like to point out, is properly prepping your vehicle by removing contamination (wash & dry + clay bar) and properly removing surface imperfections (polishing + an optional glaze) is what builds the deepest and wettest shine. If you have mastered the prep stages, then the sealants and / or waxes can do their job effectively yielding a deep, wet, gloss. If the car is brand new you may not need to polish it, but still inspect for imperfections in direct sun or under florescent or halogen lighting.

As far as protection goes, on a color like Brilliant Red, my favorite combination to use is Poorboy's EX-P Sealant (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=135) topped with Poorboy's Natty's Red Paste Wax (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=502). On a properly prepped vehicle, this combination looks absolutely stunning.

Is your aluminum trim coated or uncoated? If it is coated, I recommend using 303 Aerospace Protectant (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=30) as a UV protection.

Let us know what you decide on trying and how you make out. Thanks Rob.

George

George,

Thanks for the info, I will be heading over to your site to pick up a few things.
As for the trim it does not feel like it is coated, just brushed aluminium.
Also do I need to have a Porter Cable polisher to have good results from my work?

If you are trying to remove imperfections (swirls, scratches, water spots, etc.) with an abrasive polish, then yes a Porter Cable 7424 would benefit you in time and energy saved as well as increased results. If you are just applying the sealant and wax, then no, it's just less work by hand. If you are looking to get serious about automotive detailing, it is one of the best investments you can make.

Let me know if you need a hand selecting anything to best fit your goals and objectives.

George

Hey detailed image. You seem to know everything about detailing so you seem like the person to answer my questions. I recently bought a used Black'05 A4 and its very nice. However, when you get somewhat near it you see circular swirls(like someone washed it wrong or something). Anyways, what can i do to get rid of these swirls? Before my A4 i would just wash a car with normal car soap and then dry it off. But with my new A4 i want it to look perfect. What proccess can i do to make it look good? Also can you direct me to some products to use that will help me get results that are easily accessible?? (preferably stuff i can buy from large storeslike a meijer or from somewhere else thats everywhere)

Hey! Quick question for you. Whenever I try to wash the inside of the winshield on my car, it appears to have a sort of film on it. Windex does not remove it, as well as a whole slew of other cleaners. What auto glass/window cleaner do you recommend that I use to keep my glass nice and clean? (It is not smoke, I am a non-smoker)

Thanks for your time!

Bballer0110 - You're going to find your selection at local stores to be pretty minimal when it comes to high quality detailing supplies. First thing I'd try is Meguiars ScratchX which can be applied by hand. You'll apply it with a terry or foam applicator pad and will require some elbow grease and many coats of application to get desired results. If that is not giving you the results that you are looking for, then I'd suggest looking to invest in some high quality products, such as the Porter Cable 7424 Buffer (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/index.php?cPath=37_38) and appropriate polishes to go along with your needs. IMO anything much more aggressive than ScratchX needs to be applied with a quality buffer (not a cheap one) to achieve any decent results, especially on hard Audi paint. Think of your purchase as an investment that will last you years to come.

trevor51590 - Try to track down Stoner Invisible Glass (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=121), which can be ordered or found locally in many cases. For interior glass, I'll use Stoner's Invisible Glass and three microfiber towels. The Invisible Glass can be used safely on tinted glass so it's great for both the interior and exterior. I fold a 16" by 16" all purpose microfiber towel in fourths and spray a light coating of Invisible Glass on the towel outside of the vehicle. Applying the product to the towel outside of the vehicle helps ensure you don't get any over spray on any other part of the vehicle. The biggest problem I see with streaking is detailers often over apply the glass products.

I then work in a logical pattern side to side exerting equal pressure throughout my hand and fingertips. Working slowly can help minimize streaking. I then repeat the process going up and down until I have removed all of the surface contamination that I can see.

Next I take my second microfiber towel and fold it in fourths, then spray 1 mist of distilled water and wipe down the glass in a similar pattern. This step helps ensure any chemical residue is removed and helps further ensure all the contaminates are removed from the glass. I'll then flip to a dry side and give it a complete wipe down.

My last microfiber towel is folded in fourths as well and used dry to ensure I remove any and all streaks. I really like using a glass specific microfiber towel for this last step. These towels have a tighter weave with a lower nap and make great contact with the glass to ensure no streaks are left behind. I realize this process is a little more time consuming but I find it very effective if you really want streak free glass.

Hope this helps.

George

I appreciate the opportunity to bounce Ideas off you guys. Thanks. I recently read the article posted by Mark gonzo on detailing black cars.I have an 03 black a4, Other thean a minor scracth cluster on the hood, the paint is in good shape and I would like to keep it that way. I was thinking about trying to get the scratches out, but I don't want to make it any worse. You have to look for it as it is., but I know it is there, so If I could fix it without stripping off clear coat or wet sanding to do so, I would be interested. Any suggestions.

As for my main question. I want to follow the steps in the articlec with the Klasse aoi and Klass glaze and noticed you have combo pack that I am going to buy. My question has to do with the wax. The article suggest something like mcguires. I have a full bottle of Zymoil and would like to use it if I can, but it says cleaner wax on the bottle. I wouldn't want to affect any of the first two steps. If I buy those prodcuctx from you,can I use the zymoil for the last step and still get a good result.thanks for the advice.

10offAF

Thanks for the kind words SMITHWICKS440. As far as the scratches are concerned, to get an idea on how deep they are you can pick up a bottle of Meguiars ScratchX locally and see how that works on them. My next suggestion is going to be look into investing in a quality, paint safe buffer, such as the Porter Cable 7424 (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/index.php?cPath=37_38) and the appropriate polishes to go along with it.

As for the Zymol on top of the Klasse, unfortunately this will not work. You were right in saying that the cleaning characteristics of the Zymol would strip off the hard work you just did with the Klasse, and to be honest, the Klasse is a far superior product as far as durability and looks. Consider a quality carnauba wax such as Poorboy's Natty's Blue (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=138) or P21s Concours Carnauba (http://www.detailedimage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=113) to really enhance the depth and gloss the Klasse gives you.

Let us know wha tyou end up doing and how you make out.

George

I used Meguiar's Quik detailing wipes (for interior)on my car and everything is fine except for that they left spots on my piano black trim that look like water spots. What can I do to get them off?

It sounds like just excess product that dried up on your trim. Take a microfiber towel and some distilled or filtered water and see if that does the trick. Otherwise try a mild cleaner or dilute some Isopropyl Alcohol with water to remove any excess product. If that doesn't do the trick, let me know and I'll recommend another alternative to try.

George

ORIGINAL: Detailed Image

It sounds like just excess product that dried up on your trim. Take a microfiber towel and some distilled or filtered water and see if that does the trick. Otherwise try a mild cleaner or dilute some Isopropyl Alcohol with water to remove any excess product. If that doesn't do the trick, let me know and I'll recommend another alternative to try.

George



Since the trim has the same or about the same clear coat as the paint, I just took a little wax to it and it took everything off. Thanks for the suggestions though!

George, I guess I have another question or two for you. [8D]
I was out polishing the car today and I noticed a very rough spot or two in the paint. Is this something a clay bar would remedy? I really don't know because I've never used one. Also, I have the black-out pacakge which makes the trim around the grille black. The trim was also rough, but I could actually seewhere the rough spots were when I was in the sun. Any tips?

Thanks!

I apologize for the delayed reply, I don't know how I missed the post.

If the paint is rough looking, that area was not properly finished, or it was repainted. Unless you resort to heavy compounding or wet sanding, chances are you won't be able to smooth that area out. If the paint looks smooth and is just rough to the touch, then a clay bar may help you remedy the roughness. From the way you described the problem, it sounds like the paint wasn't properly wet sanded / finished in those areas.

George

Does sealant replace a final wax? I've done some reading but don't know that much about detailing. I ask because I just bought a new Ultrasport and want to know how to correctly detail it.

After a wash, do I apply polish, sealant, and then wax? OR can I just apply polish and then a final wax OR sealant? Does a synthetic sealant replace a final wax? And is glaze really necessary?

Hey so I used to detail for Mercedes and Jaguar and Volvo dealerships but its been a while since I've done it so I'm a little out of it. I was just wondering where I could get products for cheap? I actually just got this milwaukee 3 speed buffer for free so I want to use that. It accepts 7 and 9 inch pads. Is there any site or kit that I can buy for this buffer? What I mean by that is several pads. (polishing, cutting, etc) and also a compound of each. I'm used to Meguiars Diamond cut and heavy cut and stuff like that. Is there anything or anywhere cheaper? Any feedback would be great. Just to get me started. Maybe you have a link from this forum... I've looked for a while already... Thanks!

Drew

Stearnsy - Sealants and waxes can be used together for maximum results in durability, looks and protection or independently of eachother. Sealants typically will last 3 - 6 months as far as durability and enhance the shine of the vehicle. Waxes tend to give off more depth and gloss but have much shorter durability. Expect 2 - 8 weeks of protection on average for a natural carnauba wax. Waxes tend to provide better protection for certain things, such as bird droppings and water spotting compared to sealants, but the durability is short lived.

To get the most out of both, apply a sealant as your base coat of protection and layer a wax on top for optimal looks and maximum protection. If you go this route, you want to allow your sealant to cure for 24 hours before applying the wax on top. This means apply and remove your sealant, wait 24 hours, then apply your wax the following day or next time you wash your vehicle.

Using a glaze is an optional step but I feel has it's place for enthusiasts, specifically if you are entering a car show or have a lighter colored vehicle that you are looking to make pop more. The purpose of the glaze is to use oils and kaolin clay to help fill in imperfections and add depth and gloss to the paints finish.

If you have any other questions on anything please do not hesitate to ask.

Drew - Check your buffer to see what type of backing plate it has, whether it's velcro or hook and loop, then do some research online and choose the best pads for your buffer. I prefer the Lake Country line of pads myself. If you are looking for products cheaper than Meguiars, I suggest looking into some bulk product lines like Ardex, Auto Magic, etc. We specialize in higher quality products and tools so I cannot give you much input here.

Personally, I think you are much better off performing higher quality details and charging a higher price if you are trying to get back into the service side of things. You'll make more money and your customers will be more satisfied with your work.

George