As a new member and sponsor of AudiForums.com, Detailed Image would like to open up a thread where you can ask us about anything relating to detailing. There is a lot of good and bad information out there about how to detail properly, so we want to provide you a place to get clarification on your detailing questions. While we don’t know everything, we do have a lot of experience with a wide variety of products that can provide you with meaningful insight. We specialize in helping people clean, shine and protect their vehicle’s interior, exterior and engine bay. We have hand-selected each product on our site that will help give you top quality detailing results.
Below we have posted some before and after pictures of work Detailed Image has done with the service side of our business. These results can be achieved by anyone who is willing to learn about detailing properly with the right combination of products. We can help you pick out a detailing package that best fits your vehicle’s particular needs. We also offer 10% OFF to all AudiForum.com members but it excludes buffers, vacuums and specials. Just type in "10offAF" and you'll get the discount when checking out.
Before - Notice the house in the background through the haze?
After:
Side by Side Comparison:
Before:
After:
Friends old show Audi show car:
Of course a couple pics of my old B5 S4:
Don't be afraid to post up any questions that you have no matter how simple or complex it is. We’ll do our best to provide you a detailed and timely response. Thank you and we look forward to starting up some great dialogue!
These guys are in my area. They do amazing work. in fact, i stopped in today to pick up some polish and wax :) thanks for your help guys, much appreciated. my audi thanks you too I do have a question. Whats good for leather conditioning so it doesnt dry out and crack? you saw my interior today, its in good shape, and i want to preserve that niceness for the years to come. my main concern is the driver's seat, as its always in use
Thanks for the feedback Vadim. For Audi leather I've had great luck with using the Leatherique line of products. Leatherique is the product of choice for the Bentley and Rolls Royce Owners Clubs. It comes in two forms, Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil and Leatherique Prestine Clean. The Rejuvenator Oil is designed to really bring back hardened, faded, discolored leather with its deep conditioning characteristics.
The Prestine Clean is applied after to help remove contaminates and provide even more conditioning. Your vehicle’s leather has many micro pores that can become clogged with contamination from soil, human oils, spills and more. These contaminates discolor the leather and prevent the pores from absorbing conditioners that keep leather soft yet durable. It’s very important to clean and condition the leather regularly so the leather doesn’t dry out, fade and crack.
If you leather is in great condition and you are looking to just preserve it, then only the Prestine Clean is necessary. However being that your vehicle has 4 years of wear and tear on the leather, I would suggest both steps. I did both steps on my S4 prior to letting it go and it really brought back the look and feel I was hoping for.
The application process is pretty detailed so I'll outline that as well:
Prior to Use: The selected surface should be vacuumed and wiped down with a damp cloth.
Products Recommended: Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil Leatherique Prestine Clean – Required to remove Rejuvenator Oil Applicator Pad – Required to apply Prestine Clean Microfiber Towel x2 – Required to remove Prestine Clean
Steps Taken: 1. Vacuum seats thoroughly and wipe down with a damp towel to ensure all loose debris is removed prior to working the product. 2. Apply Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil by hand and massage into the leather or leatherette, using generous amounts to the stitching and cracked areas 3. Allow Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil to sit on your seats for up to 24 hours, we suggest parking the vehicle in the sun to create a sauna effect while the product is penetrating your seats. 3a. Multiple applications may be required for hardened and discolored leather. 4. Apply Prestine Clean directly onto the seats with a terry cloth applicator pad, using generous amounts around stitching and cracked areas 5. Allow Prestine Clean to penetrate leather for 15 – 30 minutes 6. Remove Prestine Clean with a warm damp Microfiber towel 7. Buff completely dry with a new dry Microfiber towel Maintenance Schedule: We suggest applying Leatherique Prestine Clean every 2 – 3 months for optimal conditioning and preserving your leather and leatherette. The Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil should be done one to two times a year or as needed.
I know this is a lot to take in for leather care, so don't hesitate to ask any questions you may have. Thank you once again for your support.
For any who have not come across Detailed Image before you’ll find they are an asset to detailing forums with a lot of practical ‘hands-on’ knowledge to impart, as opposed to a vendor pretending to be an educator.
Again let me say welcome
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Providing knowledge and solutions to automotive detailing problems, that both Enthusiasts and Professionals alike trust and rely on
TOGWT - Thank you for the warm welcome. I really enjoy reading your insightful posts and insite on automotive detailing as well. I'm glad to see you a part of Audi Forums.
Not sure why but i never pop in here and now im glad i did.
I have 2 questions for you.
1. I have a faded corner on my trunk by the window as if it had been touched up or buffed by the wrong person. How can i bring that back to match the rest of the trunk?
2. My head liner has some discolorasion, kind of like water damage or cleaned improperly. The liner is off white in color how should i remove these stains?
Thanks in advance, and welcome to AF.
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Chris
"I'm a great driver! I drive just like You!" The penis - An alternative to duck tape.
1) The faded corner on your trunk sounds like it has a case of bad marring, hologramming or a lot of swirls, which is taking away from the finish of your paint. These often come about with unskilled rotary buffer use or by using too aggressive of a polish or pad and not following up with a finishing polish and finishing pad. If this is the case, you'll basically need a quality finishing polish to help remove those imperfections and bring back the depth and gloss from your paint. Do you plan on correcting these marks by hand or with a buffer? Any chance you could take a couple pictures of the area you are describing to get a more accurate idea on what you are talking about? It would be best shot in direct sunlight or under florescent lighting to fully reveal the imperfections. From our store, I'd suggest Menzerna Final Polish II. This is one of the premier finishing polishes on the market and does a great job removing hazing, oxidation, light swirls and scratches and other minor imperfections. It works best with a random orbital buffer such as the Porter Cable 7424, but have also had good results by hand with this product. An over the counter option you could try would be Meguiars ScratchX or 3M Swirl Mark Remover.
2) As far as your headliner is concerned, this is a tricky area to deal with. You do not want to go too aggressive with the product or method of cleaning because you risk damaging the adhesive used to hold up your headliner. I'd typically use an all purpose cleaner, like 303 Fabric Cleaner (concentrate diluted down to about 6:1 ratio) or 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover. Simply mist a microfiber towel and blot the effected area. You can take a gentle brush to the area to help agitate the stain as well. For an over the counter solution many people have had good luck with the Woolite products. Be careful when cleaning your headliner, it may be something you may want to seek a local professionals opinion. Again if you want to snap a couple shots of it, I may be able to give you some more advice.
After the winter, I got some little stains, I dont even know what to call it, maybe pitting or just dirt spots I cant get off on my rims. Ive tried some wheel cleaning products like maguires but all seem crap too me. Any suggestions.
could it be the combined forces of the extremely hot brake dust particles combined with salt and road dust? they feel spotwelded on when u try to get em off. i had some on mine, i used a stick wrapped in a twin layer with a rag to scrape it off
After the winter, I got some little stains, I dont even know what to call it, maybe pitting or just dirt spots I cant get off on my rims. Ive tried some wheel cleaning products like maguires but all seem crap too me. Any suggestions.
Good questions. Sometimes wheel cleaners are not strong enough to clean etched in brake dust particles and the surface requires a deeper cleaning / polishing to really bring back the finish. I'd suggest a metal polish rather than a spray on wheel cleaner. Metal polishes typically have chemical cleaners in them as well as micro abrasives to really clean and restore the surface. If you are looking for a product to try I would recommend the P21s Finish Restorer as a quality metal polish. The best thing I can recommend to you, regardless of which polish you end up using to clean the wheels, I'd encourage looking into Poorboy's Wheel Sealant or Wheel Wax. This will put on a protective coating designed to withstand the hot brake dust from your vehicle. It will make future cleanings much easier with a simple wipe down of shampoo and water and minimize allowing the brake dust to build up.
If you have any other questions please do not hesitate to ask.
The air where I live is grimey and full of polution (L.A.), and cars don't go a day without it building up on their finishes. What's a good way to get gunk and dust off between washings?
Posts: 6280
Joined: 8/9/2005 From: New York Status: offline
would i be totally wrongin recommending quick detaiilers and a microfiber cloth.....assuming its not real dirty just day to day in between washes stuff
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I am trapped on a roof with an unstable human who drinks too much whiskey and who called me a smurf.
"It''s all nonsense. Drink beer. Drive a metal car. Don''t be a ponce." - James May
The air where I live is grimey and full of polution (L.A.), and cars don't go a day without it building up on their finishes. What's a good way to get gunk and dust off between washings?
quote:
ORIGINAL: vnv727 would i be totally wrongin recommending quick detaiilers and a microfiber cloth.....assuming its not real dirty just day to day in between washes stuff
I would agree with vnv727. If it's a light dusting on the surface, I like to use an ultra plush microfiber towel and a liberal amount of quick detailer (QD) solution. You may end up using 2 - 5 microfiber towels depending on how dirty the vehicle is, but this would be how I would remove it short of giving it a complete proper wash if I had the time. These are the plushes towels that I happen to stock ... Ultra Plush Microfiber Towels and my favorite QD for quick clean ups is Poorboy's Spray & Wipe.
I'm not a huge fan of the car dusters as you are dragging dry fibers over dry contaminated paint. The QD acting as a lubricant and the thick pile of the microfiber makes this method one of the safest approaches to removing light contamination without a complete wash.
All i want to know is how the hell do you get that benz to shine like that? what products do you use!..I use meguiars Clay, polish, cleaner, and wax and looks good but wow not like that!
All i want to know is how the hell do you get that benz to shine like that? what products do you use!..I use meguiars Clay, polish, cleaner, and wax and looks good but wow not like that!
All i want to know is how the hell do you get that benz to shine like that? what products do you use!..I use meguiars Clay, polish, cleaner, and wax and looks good but wow not like that!
these two are unreal at cleaning cars, man. i saw their work in person. wicked nice
Thank you for the positive feedback! Detailing is an art form that takes many years to master. One of the best things I can preach to anyone is learn about the different processes, proper techniques and products available. The absolute most important thing to do is prep work. What I mean by that is removing contamination from the surface and removing imperfections from the clear coat. The typical steps that would achieve this are: Washing & Drying -> Clay Bar -> Cutting Polish -> Finishing Polish -> Glaze... After those 5 steps (sometimes not all are needed) your paints clear coat will be in its best condition possible and when you apply your favorite sealant or wax, it will produce a stunning finish on any paint.
I encourage you to read our detailed how-to's to learn about each step of the detailing process. We explain why each step is important and what it is designed to do as well as give you step by step instructions on how to get the most out of each step.
Once you understand the processes available, I usually recommend mapping out your goals and how you plan on caring for your vehicle. I have my personal favorites as far as products I use on my vehicles, but everyones needs vary slightly from the next person. If you would like to give me some information about your vehicle and your detailing goals, I'd be happy to put together a package for you to get the most out of your detail.
Al - Thank you for the positive feedback. I saw on some other threads that you offered some great advice as well. It's encouraging to see other detailing enthusiasts on the forum!
Vadim - Thank you for the high praise. How is the Final Polish II treating you?
Your work looks amazing. I just want my car to look like those in the pictures!
Alright, I have a 2002 Audi. I have the light silver color. My paint i would rate it on a scale of 1-10, probably about an 8. It is not perfect, it has some minor chips in the front (rocks, cinders, salt) but they are not that bad. When i clay my car and do the polish and wax it looks great, feels really smooth. It just doesnt look anywhere as good as what you have there in those pictures!
I guess what i really want is just a VERY high glossy shine. Better than showroom. I want it to stand out!!!
Thanks on any info, products that you can lean me towards!
Lopster99 - Thanks for the positive feedback. That Mercades went under quite the transformation, I believe it was around 6 hours of just polishing and then the rest of the steps. It took around 9 hours to complete the exterior. I'm assuming your paint was not in as bad of condition as the Mercades was.
This is my routine I use when performing a show car prep on a lighter colored vehicle:
First thing I’d like to mention is investing in the proper washing and drying tools. A majority of swirls and scratches (70%+) come from using improper washing and drying products and techniques. I would suggest a sheepskin wash mitt, waffle weave drying towel(s) and a quality lubricating shampoo. The sheepskin wash mitt has the thickest pile which will pull contamination from the surface rather than pushing it around like with a sponge. The waffle weave drying towels are the safest towels to use on your paint. They are very absorbent and are safer to use than terry cloth, cotton or a chamois. Poorboy’s Super Slick & Suds is a high lubricating shampoo that helps effectively remove contamination from the surface. I’m not sure if you have these (or comparable) already, but I would suggest this Wash Kit if you are in need of some new quality wash tools and products. I'd also suggest picking up a Grit Guard Insert to use in your rinse bucket, which I encourage you to read up on the two bucket wash method if you aren't already using that. Once you go through the entire process on your vehicle, properly maintaining the finish is very important so you don’t waste all of your hard work.
After the washing and drying phase you would really benefit from using a clay bar. A clay bar will help remove contamination from the surface that didn’t get removed during the washing and drying phase. This can include both visible surface contamination and microscopic surface contamination (non-visible to naked eye). This will help properly prep the paint for the next steps of polishing and protecting. Until the end of the month we are running a special where you get a free 16oz Clay Lube with the purchase of 1 of these 4 clay bars.
We all know that its difficult to get lighter colored to pop and really jump out at you compared to a darker colored vehicle. In order to do so you have to properly prep the clear coat free of imperfections. First step would be to clay bar the surface if needed, then proceed to polish away the imperfections. The best polish I've found to reduce imperfections and finish down the furthest is Menzerna PO106ff. On most vehicles I would recommend a 2 step polish to really bring out the paint, but on lighter colored vehicles, especially ones in good condition, you can get away with 1 polish instead of two. This is a little pricey up front but comparing a coat of this to two separate coats of say a medium polish and a finishing polish, it ends up being cheaper per coat. A bottle should last you roughly 10 coats of polish if not more. I'd suggest polishing twice a year (Spring and Fall) or as needed.
One step I really like to do on lighter colored vehicles is add a glaze. A glaze will add a coat of oils and clay fillers to help hide imperfections that were not able to be buffed out. Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze works great on lighter colored vehicles. This will add another layer of depth and gloss in the paint while temporarily making the paint look like its in better condition than it really is. This step helps add that wet look to lighter colored vehicles that is often difficult to achieve.
With the exception of the P21s Concours Carnauba Wax which is hand applied, you would benefit from doing the rest of the steps with a Porter Cable buffer. We have a package put together called the Advanced Porter Cable Kit which will give you everything you need to tackle any detail. This will give you the proper tools not only to save you time and energy but to give you better results.
We have step by step product directions specifically for each product here on Detailed Image's Directions Page. I also encourage you to look at our Step by Step walk thru for the entire detailing process to pick up some pointers on what each step is doing and how you will benefit from it.
I know this may be a lot to digest, so I'll be expecting some questions. That would be my ideal combination of products and techniques that I would use on prepping a silver colored show vehicle. I think it will come out stunning when done correctly.
vnv727 - Thank you for the positive feedback, we look forward to being an active member of AudiForum.com!
unofficial AF West Coast ambassador Posts: 7313
Joined: 8/14/2005 From: SoCaL~ Status: offline
WOW what a great thread ! ! !
thanks for sharing your expertise w/ us... I'm putting a link up in OT (in case there wasnt one allready ) you have some great work...
your'e a great resource to me since your'e familiar w/ the B5S4's
interior: curious on how u do a basic routine clean up of the alcantara? I have the silverish / white & its getting pretty dingy... I was always told - just lightly damp cloth & if needed Mr Clean eraser bars.. do u recomended anything else??
exterior: what is the best way to keep all the exterior trim / vinyl etc looking black... including the hood grill, window trim etc....
& best remedy to get my brown brake dust caked tires looking clean?
Printable Version
Ask a Professional Detailer... - 
RE: Ask a Professional Detailer... - 
I do have a question. Whats good for leather conditioning so it doesnt dry out and crack? you saw my interior today, its in good shape, and i want to preserve that niceness for the years to come. my main concern is the driver's seat, as its always in use
dont kill me
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