I have a certified preowned 04 Audi A6 2.7T bi-turbo Quattro, and I'm concerned about the timing belt interval. Is that something that would be covered under warranty? The car has some hi miles. 73,500 to be exact. Should i just go ahead and get this done? The stealer is quoting $1600 dollars, and before i spend my hard earned I wanna make sure im not blowing it.
You will be blowing your money if you let the dealer do it. I suggest you wait a while longer and have an indy do the work. Mine was done at 84k for 1400k at the dealer and that is high, an indy can do it for 900.00 I have heard. Audi says change the belt at 105k, many including myselft think that is too long. But I think 74k is a litte early, unless you don't mind doing it early.
I don't understand people... 200$ and you can do it yourself. Is is really that hard that you are willing to throw away 1000$+ more to have someone else do it? That's a lot of hard earned money, you can buy another cheap car on that =)
I have a 00 tt and just finished a major repair(timing belt sheard) all 20 valves hit! I have it done and I want to know if audi 1.8 has a bleader on the cooling system. The car runs better than before but my temp goes to half then drops a 1/4 then back up.The level is good but in past on some cars air in system can cause this.I dont see a bleeder.Wut up!
I appreciate the replies. From what i hear this is a tedious job that will take all day for an experienced people. I don't have the tools for one thing, and I'm sure i dont have the patience. That quote included changing out all the pulleys and water pump. I will slow down for now and keep getting quotes til I can get it fixed.
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The 2.7T is a lot of work...The write up below has excellent pictures and detailed description for a 2.7T, although it was written for an Allroad the sedan is virtually the same. http://forums.audiworld.com/allroad/msgs/105861.phtml Scroll down thru the following post for additional pics as well as some info on the specialty cam & crank tools required. http://www.audiforums.com/m_452727/tm.htm
< Message edited by daroshi -- 5/8/2007 9:36:59 AM >
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You should plan on having it done soon. 105kmi is way to long, anything around 80ish should be safe.
It's also not a noobie job. It is very involved, not hard, just a lot of steps. Some one working alone, in the garage, 1st time, expect the whole day, & maybe some of the next. Getting quality parts, for everything, the parts are close to $400. Then there are a couple of special tools.
Most independents will do the job for around $1000. For some one who doesn't like to wrench it's the way to go.
IMHO, if you don't change your own oil, don't do your own brakes, don't know or want to flush the coolant, take it in to a shop. If you giggle when I said flush your own coolant, you can do the job in your garage.
Engine porn.
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Well, It took me 14 straight hours to do my first T belt... And I was 17 at a time =) Are you saying you are worth then me????? =) That was 3 years ago BTW. The car was a 88 E30 325is, wich is easy compared to my current A6. But it's not so scary of a job to throw away 1000$+.... Try to get someone from the board who lives near by to help you. Otherwise, it's your car, there is not really much you can screw up, well, there is, but you'll now it before starting the engine so no damage will accure. If you go slow and follow instructions, you'll be fine.
Replacing pulleys? No one'll do that, especially the dealer. You might have to take them off to do the seals though... Actually on these particular cars putting back the cam shaft pulleys is the most difficult part, because of the stupid design... Cams are strait cones, there is no woodrof key =((( If you get all the right tools - the job is not difficult at all. I did not have the cam holder (the large thing on the picture above -=) I still managed to do everything without it. If you are not doing the seals, you don't need one anyway. Actually you will not need any of the special trools, except for the torx set to take the bumper off, and 32mm open key to unscrew the fan clutch, I think
It's up to you... If you change your own oil, you can change your timing belt!
glasgow48 - post your own topic. Get a repair manual. Bleeding info should be in there.
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quote:
ORIGINAL: SSn Well, It took me 14 straight hours to do my first T belt... And I was 17 at a time =) Are you saying you are worth then me????? =) That was 3 years ago BTW. The car was a 88 E30 325is, wich is easy compared to my current A6. But it's not so scary of a job to throw away 1000$+.... Try to get someone from the board who lives near by to help you. Otherwise, it's your car, there is not really much you can screw up, well, there is, but you'll now it before starting the engine so no damage will accure. If you go slow and follow instructions, you'll be fine.
Replacing pulleys? No one'll do that, especially the dealer.
LOL, 14hrs for a M20 TB? Doing the M20 TB is not even CLOSE to the 2.7t. It takes a few hours just to get to the front of the engine. Really, I've done a few M20's, they take about 4hrs, even my best shot the 2.7t will take around 8. 4hrs into the 2.7t you are just getting at taking off the acc belt. Taking the whole front end of the car off & disconnecting quite a few electrical connectors is a PITA, & a little intimidating.
The pulleys, all need to come off to get at the TB, so I'm pretty sure no one would have a problem swapping them out. The funny thing would be to see what they try to charge for it.
For tools, besides the normal torx & fan wrench, you should have the timing bar, to keep the cam timed while you remove & reinstall the new belt. One tooth off can be bad.
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Why would you remove the pulleys if you are not replacing seals? You can replace the belt with pulleys on, and I don't care what the manual says, it's incorrect.
I've replaced seals, did not have the cam bar, still was able to do it fine, .. There is no way to be 'one tooth off' if you remove pulleys. Now if you just slide the old belt off, you should mark pulleys and count the teeth in between, then you'll put the new belt on exactly the same way.
And, believe me, 14 hours is not a record... I've never taken the car that much apart before, what do you expect??? Besides I brokr some stuff, and did not have proper tools =)))4 hours is when you work for someone esle,... When you are doing the job for yourself you take more time to do it properly. At my latest repair on that car I replaced the belt twice in 4 hours... It was making some weird noises, and I had to remove the belt twice to diagnose BTW I never took off the radiator or anything esle except for the distributor crank pulley and belt covers,. Here is ther skill... I've taken it apart so many times I could do it with my eyes closed %)
I talked to my neighbor accross the street and he has a guy who can do it for 1K. My neighbor is the service manager at a mercedes dealership and he says they're in need of some work so they'd be happy to work on my car. This guy will replace the water pump and serpentine belts while he's in there. SSN do you have any instructions on how to change the belt without moving the radiator. If its that simple hell i may give it a shot.
I was talking about the M20 motor on my BMW... Removing radiator and whole front section on the audi is not difficult, it just takes time. When you remove stuff you have clear acess to the engine like on the picture above, so by taking the stuff off you make it more easy to do. You can get step-by step instructions that wil gide you all the way through the repair process.
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quote:
ORIGINAL: SSn Why would you remove the pulleys if you are not replacing seals? You can replace the belt with pulleys on, and I don't care what the manual says, it's incorrect.
I think we are talking about different pulleys. The crank, power steering, both need to come off. Not the cam pulleys. It's easier to move the cam timing, then you would think. While putting the new belt on, it's really nice to have the cam lock bar, when tensioning the belt. IMHO, it's not worth having any timing problems to save the $75 on the bar.
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Yea... I was thinking about cam pulleys, manual says to remove them even if you aren;t doing the seals... Well, I just had valve covers off to make sure I dont move the cams.
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It's great to know that there are so many talented DIY mechanics out there driving Audis. I don't count myself as one. I bought the Blauparts kit for $249.95 plus another 89.95 for the damper. My local indie, who has done many of these, charged me 6 hours labor. Total tab under $1000.
That was 2000 miles ago and it runs great. And best of all: no scraped knuckles, no losing temper and tossing tools, no cussing, no broken parts, no sore back from contorting into weird positions to get at bolts, and no stress.
PS - I rebuilt a 48 Chevy motor and a Triumph TR-6 motor back in my younger days. But that was a long time ago and much simpler engines.
It's great to know that there are so many talented DIY mechanics out there driving Audis.
Unfortunatelly, not enough... I've encountered few auto intelligent people like 2k S4 here, but not as much as on the other boards, the bmw board for instance. These cars are too new for the serious mechanical discussion. They are also expensive so most people who owns them are 'drivers only' type. They are more interested in installing fancy stuff for super custom look and things like that... No time to care about changing the motor oil, .. Sometimes it's difficult to get serious help, there are many users on this board but very few reply on technical questions.
ppgoal, back pain? You should use your younger family members to do the job for you. My grandpa used to do that all the time, he just sat in the chair and gave instructions
I have a quick question, is there a way to tell if your timing belt has been done? I doubt there is without ripping the whole thing apart right? I bought my new car going into it ASSUMING it hadnt been done, so I am not going to be surprised if it isnt. Plus there is a indy mechanic here that i hear does it for like $750.
There is no way to tell even if you take everything apart. We talked about that in another topic already. Things always look the same, you can not tell how long the belt was used.
When belt is getting replaced, there should be a sticker under the hood or in a door way saying that it was done. If you car has less then 100k the belt was not replaced 99%.
Check this out fellas. Me and one of my co-workers (we're both engineers and we love the challenge) are gonna take a shot at changing this thing ourselves. Currently I got 74,200 on the road, but i was wondering is it safe to go past 75k before i do this change. I had a 92 mitsubishi eclipse that i drove from the ATL to Columbia, SC ( The Metro is Petro thanks to Steve Spurrier) at speeds in excess of 120 and when i came to a stop after i exited I20 the belt popped! My stupid a$$ didnt realize what had happened but after several failed attempts at trying to start the thing again I should have known. The motor was spinning out of control and it sounded real wierd. The manufacturer recommended a change at 60k and this belt broke at 61k. I struck a deal with the stealer and traded it in. saved me 4k. I dont want this to happen to 2.7 TT
Mine was done at 84k, so I think another 800 on yours will be just fine. I plan on changing mine when my car hits 160k. That will be around 76k on the belt and I am not the least bit concerned. I had a Volvo 850 that needed its TB changed every 50k, so after 312k miles, I got really sick and tired of changing that belt. But gave me lots of practice changing timing belts.
For a certified car, the dealer may be able to sell you an extended maintenence contract (out to 75K miles) for $650 (from AoA), which includes TB replacement. A good deal if you ask me.
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I did mine at 94,550 and was going to wait until 100k, but all the doom and gloom on the forum encouraged me to get it done sooner. The manual calls for a change at 105k. The t-belt, water pump, and tensioners all looked fine.
Well guys I did it. Me and a co-worker of mine changed the timing belt, tensioner pulley, idler pulley, water pump, thermostat and the serpentine belt. It took us about 6 hours to do it. When we were in there replacing everything, we noticed how new and untouched everything looked.
One question...Since we didn't replace the tensioner, is it still possible for the belt to fail?
Congratulations on doing the job yourself. If is not an easy task. Should you have changed the tensioner.....I would have on this car since it is a pain in the as* to get to it. But I believe the weak spot is the tensioner pulley not the tensioner itself.
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Timing Belt - 
My grandpa used to do that all the time, he just sat in the chair and gave instructions 
