ok im about to do my first oil change and change the plugs, any advice you guys might want to share with a newbe to audi.

Well, besides the usual stuff about being safe and watching your jack points....

The only bit of advice I can give you is that if you're just jacking up the car (don't have a lift), jack it from the passenger side, as the drain plug is on the drivers side of the oil pan. Oh yeah, one other thing: make sure you get all of the screws off of the belly pan before you start pulling on it. There are often ones in the wheel wells (though they're often missing).

Other than that, they're really easy cars to change the oil on.

ORIGINAL: RedShoeRider

Well, besides the usual stuff about being safe and watching your jack points....

The only bit of advice I can give you is that if you're just jacking up the car (don't have a lift), jack it from the passenger side, as the drain plug is on the drivers side of the oil pan. Oh yeah, one other thing: make sure you get all of the screws off of the belly pan before you start pulling on it. There are often ones in the wheel wells (though they're often missing).

Other than that, they're really easy cars to change the oil on.


YES!!! BE CAREFUL with the Belly Pan! Took it to a quick lube place by my house and they ripped off my pan and had to go to Audi Dealer to get new holes and shit. So i do all my oil changes now on my own The pan although a pain is critical to engine performance there was a thread popping around about it in the A6 section. Good Luck Bro!

That pan doesnt do anything for engine performance. Its a sound absorber.

Yes but it does prevent rocks and other debris from being sucked into your engine. Ive also read somewhere that it keeps the engine cooler because it channels air throw the engine better so it wont over heat.

Get some black tye wraps just in case (for when) you mess up a few of the fasteners.

thanks every one, i did the plugs and oil change no problem took almost four hours only cause i wanted to inspect things as i went through it. i did find some type of sensor unclipped, the funny thing is that it made a really loud click when i put the connecter back in it, it almost makes me think that the audi dealer out of forgot or on purpose forgot about it when i got my cats and o2 sensors done. i dont know but my check engine light went off for good now.

Well thats good i guess hahaha

What oil and filter did you use?
I did my oil change this past weekend with Full synthethic Castrol 5w50 and Fram filter... (Audi dealer was closed and the car needed the change so i had to use shitty filter...)
I bought the plugs (not received yet).. but I didnt know which ones are better.. the NGK Platinum or the Denso Iridium (got the NGK since I got respect for NGK haha ;) its the stock anyways..)
The best oil filter should be Mann right?

Not to start the great oil debate again, but if you're curious as to what oils Audi approves of:

http://www.audiusa.com/etc/medialib/cms4imp/audi2/aoa/company/aoa-specific.Par.0004.File.pdf

Most are not commonly available here in the USA, but you can find Mobil 1 and Amsoil pretty easily, Agip if you go looking for it. Castrol and Pennzoil are on the list, but the specific blends that they have listed aren't available at my local stores.

Fram used to make a really good filter, but I've read a lot of not-so-hot things about them lately. Sure, they work, but it might be well worth the extra money to get a Pureolater (sp?), Mobil 1, or the Mann.

I use Casrtol Syntec 5w-40 in my 96 a6 avant. It is approved for audi use. If you read the back of the bottle it will give all the manufactures that the oil is good for. A Mann or Mahle filter is fine. Dont forget to change the air & cabin filter and the fuel filter as well.

ORIGINAL: beefski

I use Casrtol Syntec 5w-40 in my 96 a6 avant. It is approved for audi use. If you read the back of the bottle it will give all the manufactures that the oil is good for. A Mann or Mahle filter is fine. Dont forget to change the air & cabin filter and the fuel filter as well.


Ummm....oil weight and approval are not the same thing. The weight of the oil for use depends on the design of the bears, seals, clearances, temperature and load. I don't want to get into it too much but to save you a little heartache down the road, try to stick to the recommended weights that are in your user's manual.

In a pinch however, any oil is better than no oil and for our engines....30 or 40 weight are the safest.

well my manual said to use 0w30 but if you cant find it use 5w30 or 5w40. i always use synthetic , it was a leson learned in my honda after my cylinder walls started pitting. but MY perfered brand is mobil 1 cause its easily available and TO ME reliable. if redline or royal purple wasn't so expensive and hard to find around my way i would use that. the plugs i used were ngk iridiums and they were only 7 bucks a piece, when i first got them for my honda they were like 25 a piece.

Mobile 1 is fine.

the only reason i say royal purple or redline over m1 is cause i did the stupid finger test and could feel the difference, that doesn't mean under high heat consistent rapid movement it does the same thing.

I'm switching to Mobil 1 this weekend. What's the difference between 0w 40 & 5w 40? Does it matter? I live in central Texas, mild winters, hot summers.

5w 40 is better then 0w 40 for summer time... if too hot might even go 10w 40 but I don't think it matters that much... =)

I use Royal Purple (10W-40 I think?), works greatfor my car. Anyone ever use slick-50 in a 2.7T?

Beefski -nicely done with the Josie Wales quote.