It just came on this morning. The car has 68,3xx miles in it, Here's what I know from carfax. 5/2/05 - 25,183 miles - rear pads replaced 12/19/05 - 37.092 miles - front pads replaced 11/15/06 - 55,339 miles - rear brakes serviced/adjusted
Now a bunch of questions: How long should brake pads last? Will a VAG-com be able to tell me which sensor was tripped/which pads need to be replaced? How long can I drive the car like this before it becomes dangerous? Is pad replacement on these cars a DIY job like it is on my Mustang, or do I need special tools? How much should a replacment job cost me if I get it done at a shop? I know everyone has different opions, but what's my best choice for a replacement pad if I'm looking for long life and low brake dust in a street-only car? Sorry for all the questions, but thanks for the help!!! -Jeremy
After my light came on I drove another hundred miles or so and ate half-way through the sensor. I wouldn't ignore the problem. Get those puppies replaced :)
1. Now a bunch of questions: 2. How long should brake pads last? 3. Will a VAG-com be able to tell me which sensor was tripped/which pads need to be replaced? 4. How long can I drive the car like this before it becomes dangerous? 5. Is pad replacement on these cars a DIY job like it is on my Mustang, or do I need special tools? 6. How much should a replacment job cost me if I get it done at a shop? 7. I know everyone has different opions, but what's my best choice for a replacement pad if I'm looking for long life and low brake dust in a street-only car? Sorry for all the questions, but thanks for the help!!! -Jeremy
1. Depends upon your driving style and where you drive. 43k is a little low for front pads but not out of the question. Car Fax showing rear pads at 25k indicates a problem - did someone drive around with the parking brake on??? And origional front pads changed at 37K -did the previous owner drive around with his foot on the brake? Who-ever owner the car was tough on brakes!!!!
2. Fronts 50 -60 K sometimes more- rears 80 to 100 plus.
3. NO
4. The pads have a wire in them that gets cut when it wears thru. When it is cut there is about 1/8 to 3/16 inch of pad left so it is not dangerous yet. I would guess that you have a few thousand miles left if the pads are wearing evenly. BUT if they are not even (inside vs outside pad) you could have less or already in trouble.
5. You can do it yourself -- fronts are easy - just make sure the slides are free . I usually remove the rusted lip on the rotors with my hand grinder - or put new rotors on when I do the pads. Rears require that you turn the pistons as you compress them. A special tool available at Autozone and other places makes the job easy - just make sure the slides are free. If you run into a bad caliper consider getting a rebuilt one for about $110 to $130 depending upon what you have.
6. Depends upon the shop and how much they want to stiff you. It can run from $100 per axle for just pads to over $600 per axle if they do calipers and rotors.
7. I see some recommend the ceramic pads from Tirerack for low dust -- but don't have any experience with them.
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1997 A6 Avant 1998 Jetta 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT one High Performance Roller Skate
Thanks for taking the time to help. I called the shop and they said the same thing about being too early for replacement. He suggested one of the wires or plugs might've been damaged with ice or frozen snow debris. I'll jack it up and take a look before I bring it in... but I was glad he didn't just have me bring it in and replace unneccesary stuff...
mine just came on also ive got about 85,000 on mine i called the dealership to replace cause its very cold here they said 500 just for labor to do front and rear thats not including parts i almost crapped myself when he said that.... also another question off subject but does ne one no where i can get a replacement mirror sum1 hit mine in the parking lot at work and cracked it.....thanx
call Chris Semple at Force Five Auto in Concord NH to see if he has a used one. 603-223-6700. He usually sells the whole assembly - not just the mirror
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1997 A6 Avant 1998 Jetta 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT one High Performance Roller Skate
Will the warning light come on if just the rears go out? Mine went out about a month or 2 ago and the only warning I got was the pads grinding on the rotors!! I had someone install them but bought my own parts! The rotors ended up being $59 a piece(they were cheaper but the hub was to big so had to have expensive ones) and the pads were like $40. I think $200.00 for labor!
well I jacked it up and looked. I don't see anthing disconnected, ripped, torn, frayed or otherwise. I'd be SHOCKED if 37K pads went bad this early! I guess I'll bring it in and have them look... If it's just a bum code, would a VAG-com just clear it for me?
DjD-- I believe the the sensors are only on the front. At least that is the way it is on all my vehicles.
Jaymac -- this is not a VAGCom issue. the light goes off when the sensor wires are not broken.
ppgoal -- Rear brakes at 42K-- something is wrong especially since you do mostly hiway driving. I suspect the caliper slides got hung up or the E-brake didn't release all the way.
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1997 A6 Avant 1998 Jetta 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT one High Performance Roller Skate
Yep, that is the low pad indicator. And the light will only go on if it is the front pads that are low. I have yet to see a set of rear pads with the sensor built in.
Posts: 696
Joined: 9/8/2006 From: Holland MI Status: offline
The previous owner, who put the first 37k on the car, towed a small trailer. I suspect it contributed to the early wear. 60k before I needed them again sounds reasonable, especially with some stops from high speed. (By comparison, I put 118k highway miles on a 2002 Saturn VUE before giving it to my daughter, and she finally needed brakes this summer at 146k.)
So I finally got to the shop (Exeter Motor Works). Turns out it was one of the wires that had become disconnected inside the brake pad assembly. I did jack it up and look, but where the wires go down from the connector and inside the assmebly (out of view), they were disconnected inside there, and I hadn;t tugged on them to see if they were loose in there. So they re-connected them and said the pads were only 30% worn, so the lights' gone and I'm good to go :)
I just had my 2004 A6 S-line in for its 55k service. My brake light has been on for about a month, and the Audi dealer (covered by the extended warranty on service) indicated that I need new pads and rotors on the front (pad measurement down to 2mm) and will need pads on the back soon (pad measurement on the rears is at 3.5mm). They quoted me around $1000 to complete all the work ($600 front, $400 back). Was wondering if this high, I'm probably going to shop around in some non-dealer shops. Any thoughts on the price point would be appreciated.
I just had my 2004 A6 S-line in for its 55k service. My brake light has been on for about a month, and the Audi dealer (covered by the extended warranty on service) indicated that I need new pads and rotors on the front (pad measurement down to 2mm) and will need pads on the back soon (pad measurement on the rears is at 3.5mm). They quoted me around $1000 to complete all the work ($600 front, $400 back). Was wondering if this high, I'm probably going to shop around in some non-dealer shops. Any thoughts on the price point would be appreciated.
It is about what a dealer charges for brakes. I do them myself for about $70 -2 rotors, $50 pads, and rebuilt calipers at $125 each if needed. I can do one end of the car (pads, rotors, and calipers) for about $325.00 max- If you add in labor of $50.0 per hour it can run $375 to $400 an end . It looks as if they are charging you for front rotors and pads ( my way no labor = $125) and rear pads (my way no labor = $50)
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1997 A6 Avant 1998 Jetta 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT one High Performance Roller Skate
Actually, the brake lining should be checked at some interval determined by past experience. Usually, a one year interval is a good starting point. The front inner brake lining has the two wires which may sometimes break, causing the worn brake lining symbol. If the brake lining is still good, but the wires broke off one of the brake pads, then try connecting the two wires together. This should turn off the worn brake lining symbol, but will require annually checking the pad. Also, try cleaning the terminals with electronic cleaner, if the wires don't look broken. A bad connection may cause this warning. The rear pads have no sensors. You may google "audi parts" and "audi tools", to find prices.
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"Brakes worn" Indicator light? - 
