So you've decided to go BT

I decided to make this thread in response to everyone taking such interest in BT'ing their A4. This will be B5 specific, but most of this will still apply to you b6 and b7 guys.

What are your goals?

This should be the first question you ask yourself before you even think about piecing together your BT kit. Everything in your setup will depend on what kind of power you want and what you plan on using your car for. Here's a list of the most popular choices and their respective power ratings at the crank.

k04- ~235hp
gt2x- ~275hp
gtrs- ~350hp
gt71r- ~400hp
gt28rs- ~400hp
gt2871r- ~450hp
gt3071r- ~500hp
gt3076r- ~550hp
gt35r- 600+hp
T3/T4- 300-500+hp

These are all estimations, the actual numbers will depend on where you live and what kind of supporting mods you have. Factor in ~10-15%. Anything past a gt2x is gona have some sort of lag. Here's a boost comparison of the turbo's

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/chaos92287/gt3540_spool.jpg



K04

The k04's lag is pretty much non-existant but you'll max out around 250hp and you won't be able to hold that power until redline. You will not have to change anything else except for the oil lines and software. For the aggressive files, you will need bigger injectors, an adjustable FPR, FMIC, and tuning. Some form of an aftermarket exhaust is also highly recommended.

GT2X

With the gt2x you still have next to no lag but you will be push more power than a k04 and be able to hold it till redline. This turbo is only oil-cooled and doesn't have a "cookie cutter" tune readily available for it. You will need oil lines, bigger injectors, software, FMIC, MBC, AFPR, TIP, and exhaust. You can run this turbo off a tweaked aggressive k04 file. I would suggest the GTRS over this turbo.

GTRS

This is the elim version of the GT28RS. You can use pretty much any 440cc tune. I would recommend Unitronics and CTapp above all the others. You will need 440cc Injectors (I would advise Seimans, and Delphi over the greentops, Genesis 430 will work too), VR6 MAF, AFPR, MBC, Exhaust, FMIC, and TIP. A new manifold and dp are not required, but will help the turbo breath much better and produce more power.

GT71R

The elim version of the GT2871R. Has the 71mm compressor wheel found in the 2871r but a smaller turbine wheel and uses the stock k03 flange. You will need the turbo, oil lines, exhaust, Tuning (Uni/CTapp), 440cc Injectors, VR6 MAF, AFPR, MBC, Exhaust, FMIC, Walbro 255, Clutch (stg 3 or higher), and TIP. I wouldn't even run this turbo on the stock manifold, even tho you technically could, its gona really choke it.

GT28RS
Finally we get into the "real" turbo's. This is the turbo you want to go with if you don't want to swap internals and you want minimal lag but still want nice power. You will need Tuning (Uni/CTapp (see a pattern forming), if you have a b6- REVO), Exhaust Manifold, Custom Intake, VR6/Ford Lightning MAF, 440cc/630cc Injectors, AFPR, MBC/EBC, Exhaust, FMIC, Clutch, and New Mounts.

GT2871r
Now we're talkin serious power. You have pretty much 2 options. The .63/.64 A/R or the .82/.86 A/R. The .63 and .82 are T3 flanged, and the .64 and .86 are T25 flange. T3 flows better. With the .82 you will have more lag, but more topend power. You also will not have to swap out rods. With the .63 you will have much faster spool (20+psi before 4k), but you will have to swap out rods. You will need Tuning, Exhaust Manifold, Custom Intake, VR6/Ford Lightning MAF, 440cc/630cc Injectors, AFPR, MBC/EBC, Exhaust, FMIC, Clutch, New Mounts, and Walbro 255. (new fuel filter at the same time is a good idea).

GT3071r
You will definitely be replacing rods. You have the option of choosing a .63/.64 A/R, .82/.86 A/R. Same deal applies to the flanges as with the 2871r. Go with .63 A/R if you want the quickest spool, .82 A/R if you want the better topend. You will need Tuning, Exhaust Manifold, Custom Intake, Ford Lightning MAF, 630cc Injectors, AFPR, MBC/EBC, Exhaust, FMIC, Clutch, New Mounts, and Walbro 255. With this turbo you have two options for manifolds. Either a log style or a tubular stlye. Cast log styles spool quicker but can be restictive at topend. Equal length tubular manifolds don't spool as quick but are beasts on the topend. Full-Race and 034 offer the best tubular manifolds but they are pricey. You have the option of changing pistons while you swap rods. You can do this to lower compression and be able to run higher boost, but the stock pistons have seen over 700hp so you don't have to swap them out.

GT3076r
Considered the best streetable turbo by many. It'll give you the highest numbers without the lag of a BAT. If you have a 1.8T this is the largest you should be going. Setup is gona be the same as a 3071r.

GT3582r
This is where we start getting into serious power. This will not really be a streetable turbo, and you should really consider upping the displacement. Technically, if you are reading this guide, you are not going to be getting into this territory or anything higher.

T-Series
There are a large variety of t3t4's out there. One to fit every goal. These turbo's are journal bearing, where the GT series are dual ball bearing. The GT series spool up faster and hold up better when really pushing the turbo. So why get a t series? They are cheaper, can usually be found for half the price, and they are easier on your clutch and internals due to the more gradualness of the power. Also you can swap in a DBB chra later down the road if you want better spool. The most popular choice is the 50 trim. When pushed the .63 is capable of 400hp+, while the .48 delivers quicker spool and yet still pushes over 300 to the wheels. There is a 57 trim, but it is known to cause surging on 1.8T's. If you up the displacement a bit, it would deliver great power with quick spool. There is also a T3s60. It will spool faster than the 50 trim but not deliver as much power. Looking at around 300whp spooled just past 3k. It spools just before a .48 50 trim but makes a little less power.

With any of these setups you'll need Tuning, Exhaust Manifold, Custom Intake, VR6/Ford Lightning MAF, 440cc/630cc Injectors, AFPR, MBC/EBC, Exhaust, FMIC, Clutch, New Mounts, and Walbro 255. You can get away with a stock clutch for a little while but if you want to launch it at all, you'll need a new one. And if your pushing a 50 trim to the max, some new rods wouldn't be a bad investment.


Turbo

Cheapest place your probly gona find it, is Boost Factory (http://www.boostfactory.net/) or 20 Squared (http://www.20squared.com) They have t3t4's for 625, and gt series for around a grand. Some other places that offer them are ATP (http://www.atpturbo.com/), Pagparts (http://www.pagparts.com/), Kinetic Motorsports (http://www.kineticmotorsport.com/), Option Imports (http://www.optionimports.com/) and of course "the dreaded" ebay. Honestly, you should not be buying from ebay since most turbo's on there are fake and garbage. Tho there are a few exceptions, the real ones cost just as much as from the websites listed above. The difference between the fake ones and the real ones is usually the compressor housing. Real one's have Garrett, Airresearch, KKK, or some company stamped onto the housing. The fake ones will have a blank housing and a little blue plate that lists the turbo name and serial number. You can find rebuilt t3t4's left and right, or a trashed t3t4 for dirt cheap and rebuild it yourself or send it to Garrett, but you cannot rebuild GT series turbo's in the same fashion.

If your going with a GT3071r, 3076r, or 3582r you have another option. Mike@DTH sells a Full-Race Package which includes the turbo, Full-Race manifold, Full-Race downpipe, TIAL WG, and WG dump tube kit for under 2900. This is about a good a deal as your going to find. And makes big power much more affordable. He also sells elim setups and other things like ER comp FMIC's, and should be cheaper than most/all other places. He can get you more than just what's on his site, so PM him. And be sure to tell him i sent ya;)

PM- http://www.audiforums.com/pmsend.asp?toMemId=51447

or go to his store- http://shop.dthaus.com/main.sc

Manifold

You have quite a few options here. The cheapest is going to be the ATP knockoff. You can find it on ebay or HERE (http://eurocustoms.net/oscommerce/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=89) It is the exact same thing as the ATP manifold, which retails at 400. And if anyone is wondering about the ATP rumor, that they are crap, it is NOT true. The first batch they made sucked. They have since revised the design and are not having any more problems. The clones are based off of the upgraded design. You can get the ATP in either T25 or T3 flanges, but i've only seen the T25 in the knock-off version.

If you want a better manifold you have a few options. Each of these manifolds (unless otherwise noted) have a T25 or T3 flange and fit your standard 35-38mm WG. You only want the WG flange if your running an external wg. If your running internal wg you need to get a manifold without the flange.

SPA- They make some of the best manifolds in the world, and use a totally different design than anyone else. They only use T3 flanges They used to only offer a funky WG flange but now they have the regular 35mm or 38mm flange, and they even sell their own. Just make sure you don't get the funky WG'd one or you'll have to fab up an adapter. You can find their manifolds on ebay from their store (http://stores.ebay.com/Billys-Bestest-Buys_W0QQfcdZ2QQfciZQ2d1QQfclZ3QQfromZR10QQfsnZBil lyQ27sQ20BestestQ20BuysQQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQsaselZ188 533785QQsofpZ0QQtZkm%20) the one you want is going to be the top mount manifold. Just search "longitudinal" in their store and it should come up

Pag Parts- They always have quality parts and Arnold is a great guy to do business with. It is slightly more expensive than SPA and should be comparable in performance. They are also about to release their v-band manifold. This new manifold with work with the newer lighter Tial exhaust housing. You can get the manifolds from their website (http://www.pagparts.com/)

Treadstone- This manifold is really well made, and cheaper than both Pagparts and SPA but not as easy to work with. No one seems to know (not even the guy who made it) what application this manifold was made for. It'll require a bit of modification to get it to work, but if you got the skills I would definitely go for it. You can find them from their website (http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=127&phot_key=160)

Tubular Manifold- The two most popular are Full-Race (http://www.full-race.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=841_874_877&osCsid=96576308af1a9a3 5e0a9ad4a349cc41b) and 034 (http://www.034motorsport.com/product_info.php?products_id=712). 034's is cheaper but they have messed some up in the past. They always corrected it tho.

Intake

Again you have a few options. For the Elims there is a silicon/hard pipe TIP pre-made for you guys. You can buy it from 034, ATP, Forge, Samco, Neuspeed, APR, and there are even some on ebay. The hard pipe is only on ATP and 034 and doesn't collapse under high boost, but is more expensive. For the full turbo guys your gona have to go custom. There is an angle block from ATP, but most people say it sucks. And it will be metal so there's no risk of collapse under high boost. You just need to find a way to mount a MAF and filter onto the end of the compressor inlet. Most people just do a u-bend to the MAF and then stick a filter on the end. For the guys running a full turbo with a 3" inlet, you just need a custom 3" u-bend (will require welding), which will connect to the 3" vr6 MAF, and then stick a BPI Flow Stack (http://www.bpinitiatives.com/products.php) on the other end of the MAF and you should be all set. For the guys who have to use the 4" ford lightning MAF it will be somewhat trickier. The pipe will have to go from the 4" MAF to whatever size your compressor inlet is (most likely 3") and you will need a 4"-3" silicon reducer if you want to run the BPI filter.

Injectors/AFPR/MAF

This part is simple, you just get whatever your tuning calls for. USRT (http://www.usrallyteam.com/) has pretty much any injector you'll need. I recommend the AFPR instead of a FPR because you can slightly alter it and if you ever had to change your setup, you wouldn't need a new FPR. But lets say your getting a 3071r setup and you know your keeping that setup, the tuning calls for a 3 bar FPR which you can find much cheaper than a AFPR. So you can get either. Just make SURE you get an FPR designed for a TURBO car. NA FPR's aren't designed to increase flow as boost is added, so even tho your running the correct BAR, it will not run right. And you can get a VR6 MAF from the Vortex classifieds for really cheap. If the tune calls for a vr6 MAF and you are DBC you need the MAF out of a mk3. DBW guys use the MAF out of a mk4 or tt225. while they both will technically work the bolts are 90* rotated betwen the two models. So if you get the wrong one, you will have to ghetto rig it in there with zipties or permanently seal it with something like jb weld. neither of which is really a good idea. Just get the right one

FMIC

You have 2 main options. Ebay or Quality. A regular sized ebay core will be fine for anything under 300hp. If your going above that, or live in a really hot area, you should at least consider the larger ebay core, if not a higher quality core. Cores are rated based on how "dense" they are, essentially how close together the fins are. Larger surface area means more cooling. The ebay cores have a relatively low density so a larger core is required. When looking for ebay cores, i would stick with Godspeed or CXRacing. If you want a quality core Evolution Raceworks, Garrett, and Forge all make very nice large cores

Clutch

Southbend is what you should be looking at. All the other kits are either inferior or overpriced. AWE kits are just southbend kits resold at a higher price, and they alter the stages a bit. With southbend you just need to match the torque capacity to the setup you're getting. A stage 3 is usually fine for most setups. Starting with the 2871r and up you should look into the stage 4 and 5.

New Mounts

This is the optional choice for the smaller BT guys, but honestly everyone should do it. Its not that expensive and makes a big difference. You should be getting all 3 motor mounts and both tranny mounts. A new rear diff mount is a good idea too. 034 motorsports is where you should get them from, tho not everyone seems to like their snub mount. But they do offer a nice discount if you buy all the B5 mounts.

Walbro 255lph

This will be good enough for over 400whp. Going above 500 and you'll need get an in-line fuel pump. You can get them from a LOT of places. You should just go ahead and pick one up from a place your ordering some of your other parts from and save some shipping.

MBC/EBC

An ebc will be more efficient but a mbc will be cheaper. If your getting an MBC go with the TurboXS, if you going with an EBC go with either Greddy, Apexi, or Blitz. Like the Walbro pump I would pick it up from a place your buying other parts from.

WG

Only needed if your going to be running an external WG. The most common is the Tial 38mm and you should buy one from the same place your buying your manifold from.

Exhaust

3"+ is what you want for BT. Cheapest way would be to get a custom 3" exhaust from turbo back and just choose whatever muffler you want. You will definitely need a new DP if your getting a full turbo. They sell pre-made DP's for side mount manifolds at ATP, or each company who sells a manifold usually also carries a DP to fit as well, or you can custom make your own. For you economy BT guys who can just barely afford one of the smaller elim setup's, you can get away with just a TP/HFC and either removing both or just 1 muffler. But you are going to be hurting performace until you get a full 3" exhaust

Building the Engine

I was going to go real in-depth into this, but decided not to. If you have any questions on building the engine give Bob Q over at QEDpower (http://www.qedpower.com/) a call. He will be able to hook you up with practically anything you need.

The most basic build is stroking the 1.8 out to 2.0L. The displacement is factored by the width of the cylinder wall times the stroke of the piston. For 2.0L you want a 83mm bore with a 92.8mm stroke. To achieve this you must bore the cylinders over 2mm and use an ABA crank. You will also need either a piston with a lower deck height or the pins moved. Either way its a custom job that will take a few months, so ordering these should be first on your list.

When it comes to rods, they should be upgraded if your doing a 2871r or higher. Pre-01 guys have 20mm wrist pins (Scat). 01+ guys will use a 19mm wrist pin (Integrated Engineering). Around 330 tq is the breaking point of rods, but it all depends on the tune. Just running a pump gas setup, you shouldn't need rods, but if your planning on pushing the turbo, they sohuld be changed.



Think i covered everything i wanted to. Anybody have contributions/edits, feel free to post them up.

Another really good read http://www.audiforums.com/m_823224/tm.htm

Can you include the t3s60, please?:)

If i'm not mistaken, the lag on that turbo is very minimal, probably comparable to the gt2x. i believe i read it hits full boost before 3k rpms. but produces much more power than the gt2x, is reliable and cheaper. that and the t3/t4 .48 is what i'm trying to decide on for a dd.

thanks!

its under t series

oops, sorry. not sure how i missed that. feel free to delete these posts if you wish.

PureMS also has the stern series of mounts that have a great reputation.

034 and Full Race offer exhaust manifolds.

On audizine the general concensus is that if you're over 400chp you need to upgrade rods, so from the GT28RS on up, you should be looking at rods.

I'd throw in something about widebands, here (http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2007/06/WidebandShootout/index.php)is a good article (here is the pdf link to the full article). (http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources/FM_WB_Shootout.pdf)

Also, Racetec now has a 'Dominator' fmic that is said to handle the BAT's.


edit-
forgot to say, awesome writeup! I've never seen that graph before. :)

ORIGINAL: pyropenguin

PureMS also has the stern series of mounts that have a great reputation.

034 and Full Race offer exhaust manifolds.
its under the 3071r section. guess i should add it to the manifold section as well
On audizine the general concensus is that if you're over 400chp you need to upgrade rods, so from the GT28RS on up, you should be looking at rods. its actually torque that breaks rod. thats why you dont have to upgrade rods with a t3/t4 makin 400hp but you will on a gt series making over 400hp

I'd throw in something about widebands, here (http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2007/06/WidebandShootout/index.php)is a good article (here is the pdf link to the full article). (http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources/FM_WB_Shootout.pdf)
yeah i was thinkin about including a section for wbo2 and another for w/m and lemmi but got lazy lol. most people won't be using it anyways. i might add to it later
Also, Racetec now has a 'Dominator' fmic that is said to handle the BAT's.
hadn't heard about it. I know ER just released their Comp FMIC which is a monster

ORIGINAL: pyropenguin
edit-
forgot to say, awesome writeup! I've never seen that graph before. :)



lol its in my newbie guide but thanx:)

thank you god!!!

Brian, are those horsepower ratings in the very top of your post chp or whp?

That might be a common question you're going to get. For the newbies who read this, they might need clarification. Great work though, I'm starting to think you should be promoted to a mod. :)

those are at the crank. edited it, thanx for the input

First off,nice guide[8D]Any ideawhat is CARB legal and would pass CA Smog?

wow you are a god right now, its like u read my mind its all i was talking about at work today. thank you very much. now i can get a real idea of the work im gettin myself into.

ORIGINAL: a6sheriff

First off,nice guide[8D] Any ideawhat is CARB legal and would pass CA Smog?


no clue. my car is illegal on a number of different levels lol but as long as you keep the catalytic converter, you should be fine. the elim setups or APR's stage 3 upgrade (hella expensive) should all be completely street legal


ORIGINAL: 01afour

wow you are a god right now, its like u read my mind its all i was talking about at work today. thank you very much. now i can get a real idea of the work im gettin myself into.


haha thanx. i've gotten multiple pm's and saw all those threads about BT these past couple weeks, so i figured i would make a thread to help everyone out

I got a stock a4 1999, 1.8t and have about 5 grand to spend for turbo plus supporting mods. It terms of performace x reliability what do you think the best option would be?

^Just take off the intake filter its sooper restrictive. Without the whole intake it can flow like 500cfm more, its amazing. With this mod you should be seeing 200-250hp for stock.

ORIGINAL: sakuraba

I got a stock a4 1999, 1.8t and have about 5 grand to spend for turbo plus supporting mods. It terms of performace x reliability what do you think the best option would be?


what are your goals? do you just want the most power you can get for 5g's? care about spool? just want a kit, or willing to piece everything together? need it to be street legal?

what is the benifit of having the vr6 maf?
any year in particular?

its not really a benefit, just what the tune is written for. bigger turbo's need a bigger intake. the 440cc file uses a 3" maf (vr6 or tt225) the 630cc file uses a 4" maf (ford lightning)

ORIGINAL: sakuraba

I got a stock a4 1999, 1.8t and have about 5 grand to spend for turbo plus supporting mods. It terms of performace x reliability what do you think the best option would be?



if you are looking for decnet #'s, which would keep you reliable...... and not hard to figure out what to get


get the apr kit..... it is one of, if not the most expensive ways to go...... but you will get good #'s and stay reliable like you want


they claim 340hp on their stage 3 kit
http://goapr.com/Audi/products/stage3_long.html

so we need a fuel pump for 630cc injectors?

and what about he ebay tubular manifolds?

ORIGINAL: chaos92287

its not really a benefit, just what the tune is written for. bigger turbo's need a bigger intake. the 440cc file uses a 3" maf (vr6 or tt225) the 630cc file uses a 4" maf (ford lightning)


will these maf plug right in or is there customizing to do?

ORIGINAL: 1.8TK3MP

and what about he ebay tubular manifolds?


HAHAHA... umm... what do you think? HAHAHA get one and let us know what happens... I can tell you most people here already know what will happen but you can find out for yourself.

Josh

haha this is what happens with ebay manis
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a153/JeffMas/My%20Car/P1010356.jpg

ORIGINAL: 1.8TK3MP

so we need a fuel pump for 630cc injectors?

and what about he ebay tubular manifolds?


no you need one when your fuel system is operating at a higher psi than your stock pump can deliver

and what ebay tubular manifolds? if your talking about the exoticspeed or obx, then no those are crap. ANY manifold made from 304 stainless steel is gona crack. and if the welds aren't fully purged those could break too. with a tubular manifold you should be using 3.683mm thickness.

the manifolds i've listed work really good and dont have problems. stick with them

ORIGINAL: driftking8732

ORIGINAL: chaos92287

its not really a benefit, just what the tune is written for. bigger turbo's need a bigger intake. the 440cc file uses a 3" maf (vr6 or tt225) the 630cc file uses a 4" maf (ford lightning)


will these maf plug right in or is there customizing to do?


if your keeping the stock airbox, it will need to be slightly customized. if your running an open intake the most you'll need is some silicon reducers if it doesn't fit.

ORIGINAL: 1.8TK3MP
and what about he ebay tubular manifolds?



They're really really really good, I recommend them over any other manifold. They're extremely durable and won't let you down, even with the largest turbos. You're very safe buying them, you should go ahead and get one for your car!

...wrong thread

I'm looking to go with a Garrett T3/T4 setup 50 trim, how much would a full setup cost me? What tuning do you reccommend for me? Any help aprreciated. Thanks.

T3/T4 50trim .48a/r or .62?

.48 = faster spool time, less power (still considerable though) carried through redline
.62 = slower spool time, but a monstrosity at higher RPMs

440cc/630cc Injectors, 3" MAF, CTapp tuning, 3" TIP, new oil lines, and fuel pump.

I'm too lazy to type out the prices, partially because I don't know them well enough to say them. Your 3" TIP should be done custom; go to an exhaust shop and have them custom-bend a steel straightpipe for you, that way you can be 10190358019385019385% sure it won't cave in, and there's no beating around the unbelievable airflow. Plus, they can drill holes and shit for you. It'll save you a big headache!

YI believe I've covered it all... if not, Brian will fill it in for me!

Thanks for the parts list! I'm having a shop do all the work just was looking to expect what all I need, and I'm sure I'll need a FMIC for sure.

EDIT: Going with the .48 becuase I'm not planning on upgrading the rods until I have to haha, and my goal of 300awhp can be achieved most likely.

its a .63 not .62 and you need a 4" MAF if your going with Ctapp 630cc.


t3t4 625
manifold 150+
CTapp 700
injectors 250
afpr 150
mbc 100
fuel pump 100
intake 100
maf 30
mounts 285
clutch 500
fmic 300-1k+

fpr, injectors, and MAF will all be decided by what tune you get, so dont get those till you decide on which tune your going with

Haha this is like the third time I've said .62a/r, yeah? Oh well, I'm over it. I was very tired when I wrote that message, hence the incomplete, half-ass post.

T25 = .64 and .86
T3 = .48, .63 and .82

Yes, they do go bigger but way to big for a 1.8t. All t25 housing should be a .64 since it is best suited for the 1.8t. YOu can use a .86 on a gt28rs and gt2871rbut they will be laggy. The .48 T3 housing should only be installed on a 50trim, gt28rs and gt2871r. The .63 housing should be use for all gt30 turbos (unless you already have a t25 turbo and manifold) and the smallest turbo you should use a .82 housing on is a gt3076r. Expect about 500rpms of lag for the larger housing, however you will get a greater top end and smoother powerband.

Also remember that the T3 flange is larger than the T25 so it flows more, also the t3 housings flow better also.

Cincy, if you have a .86 on a gt28rs, does the power carry through redline? I'm wanting something that's smoother and provides a nicer distribution of power. I absolutely LOVE turbo lag, too.

I know that a/r doesn't affect compressor performance, but it'll decrease backpressure at higher RPMs, given the larger housing size, so more power can be carried through.

It will have a smoother powerband like you need. The power will still drop off before redline, but not as much. However since you have a girly tip, you might not want a laggy turbo since you cant control when the car shifts.

ORIGINAL: cincyTT

since you have a girly tip, you might not want a laggy turbo since you cant control when the car shifts.


I never ever drive without putting it in tiptronic mode. Ever. I shift when I want!

Okay, now that we've been past that, would you still recommend a smaller a/r so I can utilize my torque range efficiently? I don't want something that'll surge and put a lot of stress on the TCC all at once.

A gt28rs wont surge with either housing. A .64 will hit full boost ~3.2k and the .86 closer to 3.7k (increase housing is usually 500rpms). You will make boost before that, just not peak 20+ until then.

Does the RPM rule generally apply to the range of power that's carried through redline? IE you have more power before succumbing to backpressure by 500rpm in the high-end too? If not, I wouldn't mind waiting another 500rpm to experience a broader range of power in the long-run.

Y'know, you should consider hopping on AIM if you can [8D]

With a larger housing you are pushing back peak tq and will have more hp up top. You should see about 10-15whp gain on the same psi.

I noticed you ignored the second part of my response. :(

Anyways, I'm going to figure some stuff out between the t3t4 turbo that I wanted (57trim .63a/r) and this GT28RS. I'm not even sure which I want to start building my car for, but I guess my decision can wait. It'll be at least 2-3 months. Is it safe to assume the builds are going to be somewhat similar? IE the MAF, turbo inlet, injectors (based on software... is there 630cc software for the gt28rs?)

Yes, it will work with both. I am doing other things and dont have the time to hop on there

It's okay, I'm thankful you're helping me at all. I know I hassle you a lot, but there's just some shit I can't figure out unless it's put in different words haha. I need to learn this stuff by myself anyways.

Good thing I can now ask your mini-me, Brian, for help too. ;)

lol mini-me?

know your place Brian!!

http://weblog.site5.com/images/photos/minime.jpg

ORIGINAL: chaos92287

lol mini-me?


I mean that in a good way. Who doesn't want to know as much as Nate?

Before I left for my two-month break not too long ago, I didn't really view you as someone who stood out from the crowd, in terms of knowledge and helpfulness. So don't take it the wrong way!

ORIGINAL: cincyTT

No your place Brian!!


learn to spell!!

ORIGINAL: Leifer

ORIGINAL: chaos92287

lol mini-me?


I mean that in a good way. Who doesn't want to know as much as Nate?

Before I left for my two-month break not too long ago, I didn't really view you as someone who stood out from the crowd, in terms of knowledge and helpfulness. So don't take it the wrong way!



guess my newbie guide and thousands of posts answering questions didn't count for anything:(

when i bought this car ~1.5 years ago i didn't even know what a turbo was lol. i've learned a LOT on these forums, especially since Nate joined. so im grateful and just trying to help spread the knowledge

Sorry.... know.... better? Its late and im doing a Turbo guide for the TT section. Not to mention i remember putting a lot of red marks on that newbie guide [8D]

sounded like you were saying NO. your place brian;) [:'(] [8D]

and yeah i know you helped a lot with the guide and you've taught me a lot, and i really appreciate it

NP, its nice to have someone actually get it and be able to pass it on.

When I first joined this forum, I had aspirations for swapping out the auto for a manual, and expected it to cost ~ $600.

let's get back on-topic about going BT

^ that was a little much. But yes, Back on Topic

You know, I saw over in the photochop section that you had edited someone else's post, and I was thinking of ways I could get you to edit mine.

I'm not all that sober right now, so I'm sorry if I offended you. [X(]

ORIGINAL: cincyTT

^ that was a little much. But yes, Back on Topic


^x2 don't know about you, but there are no "inner" feelings here lol just respect

and holy crap i just realized Nate's a mod now. bout time

would these only work on the 1.8T?

????

using quotes or some info would help us know what you are talking about here.

I just meant the turbos in general.

Theoretically, you can turbocharge anything. The turbochargers themselves are good for ANY (okay, MOST) engine, but the parts we have compiled are mainly meant for the 1.8T engine.

hey with the big turbo upgrades it says you can use a lightning maf sensor, does it just plug in or what do i have to do to make it work.

i dont know what you ahve to do to make it work but you must use the maf sensor and size that your soft ware calls for. running something larger than what is written for will cause lean or rich conditions

thanks 3 more questions:
1. is the vr6 plug and play?
2. are all vr6 maf sensors 3"?
3. does it matter obd1 or obd2?

1. yes
2. yes
3. yes. i think obdI is for 97 a4's. since you have a 2000 you would want a maf out of a mk4 vr6 or tt225.

driftking, if by "plug and play" you mean you can swap it in and be cool, it's not. You're going to need to tune your ECU for it to recognize the bigger MAF

i understand that i just want everything all ready to go when i go get tuned, because the places by me wont tune unless they see the car so i want everything ready to go.

SPA makes a T25 flanged mani part number TM-A-01 they go for around $350 shipped.

chaos92287,

you have up there for tunning is unitronics and ctapp, i have been searching for the website for that company/tune to no aveil, unitronics just wont answer any of my emails and im tired of waiting to get tunned, what is the site/sites that have it. thanks

Unitronic- http://www.unitronic.ca/uni/
Tapp - http://www.eurodyne.ca/

If you want Uni help, join vwvortex and you can talk your Adam@ unitronic.ca on there and he will more than answer all your questions. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerouser?cmd=viewprofile&id=327231

I talk to him often and he is a great guy

driftking theres a great shop on LI that uses unitronics chips. its called forcefed, they build hella fast cars and only use unitronics. im goin w/ them when i chip my car. and by them i mean the brand and shop.

forcefed engineering
631-243-6333
deer park NY.

I can't thank you enough Chaos. This really answered a lot of my questions that would have probably would have ended up as threads that would have been flamed on. Thank you.

WOW Someone actually searched and used a sticky!!! WOOT The world may go on for a little longer. lol

Josh

hi, im interested in upgrading to the gtrs turbo, but in the description under other necessary parts, it says TIP. What is TIP?

turbo inlet pipe